Type of Metal & Thickness of Curt Tubing with 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver

Updated 05/31/2025 | Published 06/28/2018

Question:

I would like to know the thickness of the walls and type of steel used in Item C49360.

asked by: Chase

Expert Reply:

The Curt Combo Bar with 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver # C49360 is made of solid raw steel. It is made in the USA and this unit is equipped with a 1/2" reinforcing collar for extra strength and has a raw finish to be ready for welding. The thickness is a heavy Duty 1/4" wall tubing. This receiver tube has a 2" x 2" opening and measures 36" in length.

expert reply by: Timothy G

Tim D.

5/29/2025

I need to drill a few holes in my Curt hitch receiver box to modify for a double stack insert for the retainer hitch pin/s One on each level. One upper level carries the heavy Ebike, the lower and longer 2" box carries a small camping style trailer further out from the Ebike part of the modification. The longer length will need a fine finish on the holes for safe articulation on sharper turns The original install is a GMC from the Factory 2" on a 2005 GMC Single cab long bed work truck. The issue is for the cleanest removal of material. Normally I would guess that Cobalt would be best, (?) but matching the term "raw Steel" is undefined at this end. Hardened or Soft steel? HHS bits, titanium coated or Cobalt, which would be the best route to go? Of course, increasing bits size to my final finish diameter is planned. The holes will also be reamed to ensure smooth insertion of the pin/s so as not to catch on a fouled edge of any holes. Thank you. Seems a simple question I know, just, buy a Cobalt and be done with it. However, I can be a bit ridiculous when dealing with maintaining safe loads and highway Speeds. My background has also been in deep Commercial diving (oil rigs) so simple details can be important to me and make my life easier when done correctly. I hope ;-)) Thank you' Timothy D.

Kate F.

5/30/2025

@TimD I cannot suggest modifying any products as it will void the warranty. Curt (and most hitch brands) don’t allow modifications like that because it changes the structure and could affect how it handles heavy loads. Even something as simple as a new hole can concentrate stress and create a weak point. With that said, if I were to do something like that I would go with cobalt drill bits. They stay sharp and cut really well through thicker steel like the kind used in hitch tubes. Start with a small pilot hole (like 1/8") and then work your way up in steps until you reach the final size, probably 5/8" as that is the size of most hitch pins. Use cutting oil to keep everything cool and prevent dulling the bit. Once the hole’s at size, use a reamer (or even a slightly undersized round file if you're careful) to smooth out the inside of the hole so the pin slides in cleanly without catching on any burrs. Finish it up with a quick deburring on both sides to remove any sharp edges. Oh, and be sure to clamp everything down securely while drilling. A drill press is ideal, but a solid vise and a steady hand work too. And once it’s done, touch up the exposed steel with some rust-proof paint so it stays protected.

Tim D.

5/30/2025

@KateF. Everything you say is correct and, in my mind, important concerning safety and stability of the tow. The tow is light and has no more than 120# tongue when fully loaded.. Roof top tent and a few camping luxuries such as a 60L 12V frig/Freezer Thank you for the input. I thought cobalt has the ideal bit material as I use it extensively with 318 Stainless Steel fasteners in the marine industry. Your return was timely and again thank you Tim D.