To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
If you are looking to make your truck more useful day to day, this hard topper is a really nice upgrade. It gives you a secure place to store your gear, while the added windows and airflow make it easier to see, access, and use everything inside.
Rain and road debris can turn covered bed storage into a problem if water works through the shell. The sealing system uses a water-shedding design and waterproof hinge to direct water away from your truck bed, keeping stored cargo covered while you drive or park. Front and rear shatterproof plexiglass windows maintain clear visibility, while lockable side-sliding tempered windows expand your view through the topper.
Tall cargo can make a permanent enclosure more trouble than it's worth. Lightweight aluminum construction keeps the topper easier to handle, and the removable design can be taken off in approximately 10 minutes with two people, giving your truck bed back for larger loads.
Dogs, camping gear, and stored equipment can benefit from more airflow inside a covered bed. Lockable side-sliding tempered windows use built-in screens for extra ventilation, while the 2-way roof vent includes a metal screen and opens in two directions. Opening the roof vent forward creates a positively pressurized bed for high-flow ventilation while keeping dust out.
Permanent drilling adds extra work when you're setting up a removable bed enclosure. Aluminum stake pocket inserts secure the mounting system without drilling, keeping installation focused on mounting the topper rather than modifying your truck bed.
Camping and long-distance travel can fill your enclosed bed quickly. Existing holes in the main structure accept optional multi-functional cross bars (sold separately), giving your truck another place to carry gear and accessories above the topper.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hi, I'm Matt with etrailer. Today we are gonna be talking about the Duracap truck topper on our 2025 Chevrolet Silverado. So let's take a close look at it. All right, our goal today is gonna be going over all the details I really stand out to me and how it fits on this truck today. And then afterwards, I wanna show you how to install it. Now I do wanna point out that we actually used an extra part for the wiring since this is gonna go into your third brake light.
So we just grabbed a CURT harness for that last connection. So definitely keep that in mind if you do decide to go with this to pick up that extra part. So with a lot of toppers out there, they do a really good job at keeping anything in the back of your truck protected from the elements or from any would-be thieves. But some of them look a little bit plain. And what I like about this one is it has this really tough look to it since we have that textured surface to it.
That's something I do like about it. And it's also gonna be really nice for letting air flow in here. So if you just need to let this air out sometimes or if you wanna do some camping in here, we have a couple options. We have this little vent at the very top. I can open that up.
That'll let more air flow in. And then we're gonna have these two windows here on the sides that do slide open and have some screens, so we don't have to let the bugs in too. But I wanna go over to how it's sitting on here now and how it looks. So right now, this is almost gonna be a seamless exchange from the top of our cab to the top of this topper. And I actually kinda like that since it does it up a little bit higher.
It gives us a little bit more room out of here, but it's not gonna be super noticeable. So it's gonna have a pretty seamless look here. Same thing's gonna be with the very front of this when we are lining it up. Enough of a gap here, where you can still see out your back pretty clearly. Now when I come over here to the tailgate side, something I did notice is this corner right here does hang off just a tad bit, but this is gonna be sealed underneath here, so no water's gonna be coming in from this point. And when it comes to security, you can't just come on over here and pull on the string. You will have to open up that tailgate to gain access to it. So that's a smart feature, without having a locks on here is gonna be reliant on the tailgate. So it makes it a little bit more of a simple process for less things to go wrong and we can kind of see house held in place. And the way this is gonna be secured down is gonna be via our stake pockets. Now on the tailgate side, this is gonna be a fairly simple design, but when we move over to our bulkhead side, similar process, but with this, you will have to cut out some holes to access your stake pockets if you still got those covers on there. But what's nice about this design is, one, if you just loosen up all that hardware, you can take it off with the help of a friend. So it doesn't take too long to do that. But the other thing I do like about this design is we don't have to worry about those clamps that sit here on the sides. Sometimes they're a little bit awkward to use and work with, but they also take up a little bit of space. We don't have to worry about that space being taken up now. And then we are gonna get a measurement to see how high you can stack things too. So going to the top of the roof, that's gonna be roughly 43 inches from the wall. And we do have these beams that grow across, make this a little bit more sturdy. That's gonna be roughly around 42 inches. So if you have anything super tall that might get in your way a little bit, but again, you can take this camper off if you need to. Now if you do need to take the camper off, again, those bolts are gonna be a pretty simple process, but we do have that wiring, and this is actually gonna have a point right here on the side. If you just undo this latch, you can disconnect that without having the issue of having to undo that wiring. But that's pretty much it overall. Again, I do like the look of it back here, especially with these tinted windows we have here is gonna help people not be able to see what you have in that truck. Now when it comes to the installation process, it is gonna be a little bit more time-consuming, putting on the weather stripping, those bolts. Another one that doesn't have as long of a installation process it's gonna be the Westin topper. Now what I like about that one is you can also get that wired into your locking system, so you can actually have a separate key fob to unlock it. And those side panels are gonna open up all the way too, but it is gonna be a more premium topper. So it really just depends what you're looking for there. But when it comes to the installation process of this one right here, again, it is gonna take more time. And if you don't have the time to do that or you don't want to mess with any of your electrical work for the wiring, I would recommend using our Installer Locator to find someone to put it on for you. But if you wanna see what that process looks like, just stay tuned, we'll walk you through it. So where we're gonna begin is, one thing I recommend is just laying out all your parts so you can make sure you have everything and also it's just gonna be a little bit easier to get to and have 'em organized. So once we have that done, what you need to do is grab some of these flat seals. You're gonna have a couple of these bundles. It's gonna look like this. That's the ones you're gonna be using. You are gonna cut this down to 3 1/2 inch in length, and I recommend just cutting a couple pieces like that and leaving one as a spare 'cause you're gonna use that measurement a lot. And we're gonna adhere that onto one of these rear brackets. And what you're gonna put that is we wanna put it on in this orientation on the side that has these square holes. And we're just gonna remove that paper there, put it right in the center. There we go, apply some pressure, put it down. And now we're gonna put that on the rear door. The rear door is gonna be the one that has that tinted window. You wanna have it in this orientation, like I have right now, line it up with those square holes. Then you're gonna grab some carriage bolts. These are gonna be the ones that are 3/4 in length. The hand from underneath here, push you through that hole, and then we're gonna grab a nut to go on top of it. You'll be able to tell which ones are which because there's gonna be a bunch of these bolts. There's gonna be a bunch of these nuts. So it's really easy to find out which ones go to which. Once it's hand tight, same thing on the backside. And once you have these roughly on, we're gonna tighten them all the way down. (drill whirring) Now we're gonna grab this ball stud. And the way this is gonna go on is it's going go in the top of the rear door on this bracket. You wanna make sure that ball stud itself is facing on the outside. And we'll grab a larger nut, secure it from the inside, and then grab a wrench to hold it from one side and tighten it from the other. (drill whirring) Now we're gonna grab the rear bar, and there's gonna be these hooks on the very top of it. We want to flip it over 180 degrees so the flat side is facing up. You can also tell us right side because it's gonna have a hole on either edge. What we're gonna do from here is grab a couple more of those seals, we cut down to 3 1/2 inches, and I'm gonna put one right behind this hole towards the edge, right here. We're gonna do this on both sides. Then I'm gonna come to the center of it. And I'm gonna put the third one at that point, take it off that paper there. I'm just kinda roughly putting it down. And now we're gonna put that bar down here. We wanna make sure the hooks are facing up, the foam pads facing down against this door here. And then we're gonna grab these three plates. So what you're gonna do is you'll notice one of them has this section that sticks out in the center. We'll put one down that doesn't, one with the centerpiece, and one on top of it. So we're essentially just kind of sandwiching it. And then there is gonna be a little channel inside of here, right there if you can see it, and I'm just gonna stick that right through there, just like that. Lower it down. Mine staying pretty well in place because I've loosely installed the other side, make this process a bit easier for myself. And then we're gonna grab some of these other carriage bolts. These are gonna be an inch in length. Push it through from underneath. And then we're just gonna loosely secure it once I get that head of it to go through. Just like that. Same thing for the other side. Oh. And once I have these loosely secured, and I do this on the other side, and then we can tighten it down all the way. I'll do that real quick. (drill whirring) All right, now we're gonna come over to the side panels and what we're gonna grab is some of this black sealant that comes with your kit. I'm just gonna cut me off a little section of that, and what I'm gonna do with it is remove it, kind of manipulate it a bit, and there's gonna be this little section here that we're gonna apply it to. This is gonna ensure that moisture doesn't get through this little crack. Just kind of apply some pressure to it. Make sure it's relatively flat. That's looking pretty good. Guess we're done with that. Then I wanna grab a bracket. This is what the bracket's gonna look like, and the way we wanna install it is this little plate here, we want this facing the bottom near where we had that sealant at. The other thing you wanted to make sure of is that this plate on the very top is facing inwards, not facing out. When you've done that, then we'll grab our hardware. This is gonna be 3/4 in length bolts, carriage bolts, fit it through these holes, square holes here. Just trying to line it up with our bracket. The first one's usually the trickiest one to get through, and there's gonna be four of these. It doesn't have to fit in there perfectly at first. We'll adjust it later on. There we go. And then I'm just gonna loosely install these nuts. And we don't wanna type anything yet because we wanna make sure all these bolts go through. And now we can type them down. I already got three of them in place. There's one more now. (drill whirring) There we go. And then we're gonna come to one of those bolt studs again. Now this one is gonna come right over here to that tab, ball on the very top, nut on the bottom. And just like before, once I have this threaded on by hand, then I'll fully tighten it down. And when you get done doing that, the both side panels, we're gonna come over to the windows. We're gonna grab the bulb seal. That's just gonna have a little bit more of a bulb to it comparatively to the other ones, and I'm just gonna remove a little bit of this red paper protecting it, or making sure it's not gonna adhere to whatever. There it is, removed. And where we wanna start is gonna be right here in the center. There's gonna be two grooves. You don't wanna go to this top groove. What we wanna go to instead is gonna be this point here almost on the outermost edge. And what I'll do is just slowly take my time and try to keep this seal within this line right here. But yeah, I'm just gonna go around the entire perimeter, and if I have any excess, I'm just gonna trim that off. And now I've got to the end, I wanna try and get that as close as possible. There we go. That's looking fairly pretty good. All right, so now I'm gonna grab the actual side panel that's gonna sit on top of it. The way that's gonna do it is just flip this around, line it up to the contours of the actual window itself. Slowly just lower it. You might have to push this around a bit, almost get it perfectly lined up. And then once you get that in a good spot, you'll press down a bit. And sometimes it'll feel like it's almost clicking into place. There we go. That's pretty good. So what we're gonna do at this point is I'm gonna grab this liner here and we're just gonna set it right on top. And the best way I find to install this, because we are gonna have to screw into it, we're gonna have some self-tapper screws that go in place, but find that exact spot where it goes is I find the best spot to do it, as you'll notice, there's a groove right here. So when we line up these holes, try to line it up with that groove. That's the best advice I have for something like this. So I can actually start doing that now. (drill whirring) Once that is secured down, then we'll go to the opposite corner, go into this one, and then that one's opposite. Once you have all those corners down, then you're gonna fill in the gaps with these other the spots. And now we can move to the front panel. Now that's gonna have that clear glass to it, and we're gonna grab that flat seal, peel that off. And when you put it on the edge of this panel, we wanna leave roughly about 1/4 inch hanging off. That's probably good there. And I'll just run my thumb with it and make sure that it's pretty lined up with our panel here. And once you get to the other side, the same rules are gonna apply where we're gonna want about 1/4 inch of overhang. And once you get done with this side, you're gonna do the same thing for the other side of the front panel. Right now we're gonna move over here to the top panel and we're gonna grab some of that black sealant that I've already cut off. I'm gonna apply it to each one of these sections at the very end. And what I'm trying to do is seal that off, make sure we don't have like a drop off. So that's gonna help this rubber stripping stay on here. So going on either side, make sure it has a good grip, and then some in the center too. And we're gonna do that on each one of these sections and we're gonna do it on both sides. And you probably noticed I had some of this flat seal around the perimeter of the top panel. I already started that, so I'm gonna start finishing it now. So once you have that black seal on here, then we'll just take this one and go around the entire border of our top panel. Now this is gonna take a little bit of time, just be a little bit patient with it, and then we can move on to the next step. All right, so I have that window on all the way with all those screws in place and now I'm gonna grab this seal. And now this seal is gonna look a little bit different from the other ones. So this one's gonna have this more bulbous side to it, it looks more like a circle, and it's gonna have the wiper side on the side that kind of tapers at the end. How we want to install this is that tapered side, we want to face it inside of that door panel. Now this is gonna be on a side panel. And I'm just gonna start at the very top. I'm gonna try to get it flush, so I'll just put my thumb here, line it up, kinda like that. There you go. And then we're just gonna slowly remove this adhesive and work our way down. Near the end, we're gonna get to the point where you wanna see where we had that black sealant right over here on this corner. There it is. You see that You can scrape that off. I'll, a lot of times, just push it down and I'll probably scrape array the excess later on. But first, I'm gonna finish putting this on all the way. And when you're at the end, you can just cut off that excess. Okay, we can start assembling the panel. So right now, I already have one of my side panels connected to the front panel. That's be your bulkhead side. It's gonna be the same process on the other side. If you have a friend to help you out with this, it just makes it a little bit easier to stable it. But once you have one side, the other side's way easier and I can show you how it gets assembled. Basically, we're just gonna lift it this up, pull it towards me, and you want to have the sidewall pressing against the inside wall of that panel here, 'cause we're gonna be pressing against this foam. Push it on, just like that. And what I'll do is just grab a carriage bolt, try to line it up with the top one. It'll go through. And this actually does a lot of the heavy lifting for us to keep it in place. I'll try to make sure I squeeze that weather stripping, that foam pad underneath here too. And if it, like, breaks off in this process, that's fine. We can put some more down. But now I'm gonna grab that little nut here and I'm just gonna loosely hand tighten this, where it's barely touching that wall there. I'm gonna repeat that process for the rest of the bolts below. Now I'm gonna come over here to this rear bar, or this rear bracket. And when I flip this around, you're gonna notice, already has some factory hardware on there. We're gonna leave that on and we're not gonna modify it at all. So you're gonna notice there's gonna be a carriage bolt that goes all the way through with a nut on one side and on the other side. And we're not removing that hardware. Where we're gonna place that though is we're gonna line it up with this elongated square hole. We're gonna do that on both sides. I'm gonna flip it around and pull it towards me, and you're gonna get it to go through there, just a little bit. Then we're gonna grab one of these nuts, just kind of loosely tighten on there enough to grab on. And I'm gonna do the same thing on the other side. What I'm gonna try to adjust is this a hole right here and a hole right on this other side. I'm just gonna try to slide this since that isn't elongated hole. So those are roughly in line. I'm just gonna hand tighten it. It moves a little bit, that's fine. We're leaving everything loose. I'm gonna do that on the other side. We're gonna start prepping things up for our truck now. So when we come over to these brackets that go in your bed rails. So I already have this one finished. The goal here is to put that flat foam stripping all the way, all the way around the entire perimeter of these in this orientation. So the best way I find to start off with it is gonna be in a corner, and it's gonna be the same process as what we've been doing before. I'm just gonna lay it down. I'm gonna leave a little bit of a gap to kind of end it when I'm finished. And I am just gonna do this in one continuous strip, just like that. Again, with these things, it just takes a little bit of patience and time. All right, so we're gonna move over to her bed and start doing a little bit of prep work here. And that's gonna require me taking out this alcohol wipe from your kit. And we're coming over here to the bulkhead and we're just gonna give this a good wipe down, make sure we don't got any debris on here, anything that's gonna prevent us from getting a good stick here. Now, so we got a big old glob of that black sealant, and we're gonna come over here to those bed caps, try to lift up a bit on, and we're gonna just stuff this the side of here. Once you have it done on this side, do the same thing on the other side. All right, so now we're gonna take the actual bulkhead seal. And the way this one looks is this is gonna be a shape of it. It's gonna be almost like an open square. And where we're gonna go from that now is we're gonna come over here to the edge of the, inner edge of that bulkhead and we're gonna put it down. You're just gonna remove that red paper underneath here. There it is. Get it as close. You can even put it on top a little bit of that flex seal we put down. And then we're just gonna go to the other side. All right, and we're gonna have a little bit of excess here. So you can't use a utility knife. I personally like to use some scissors so I'm not cutting into my bed by accident. I'm gonna try to get it fairly close to the very edge though. There we go. What we're gonna do now is start moving over to our bed rails. I have the actual cover rails over here. The way I have this oriented is you're gonna have this side that doesn't have a notch cut out to it, that's gonna be on your tailgate side, and it should sit in this orientation. Now we can actually move on to securing this down. The way we're gonna do that is we're gonna grab one of these plates. It's gonna have this little bump on there, and that's gonna be threaded inside of it. And what I need to do is really the goal is to get these to tighten one another down into place. But this actually goes inside of your stake pocket. And as you get it installed, we have to remove this taillight. So we're already kind of done this on one side and loosen this other side up just a tad bit. But we're just gonna come over here to these two bolts that hold this in place. Once you get those loosened up, remove them completely with your fingers, set those aside and make sure you don't lose them. And then they're just gonna pry on the inside here, pull it out. There we go. Just like that. We're just gonna wiggle it free. And I don't have to disconnect any wires. All I really have to do is get this plate to sit inside of this hole. Inside of this hole, there's gonna be an opening on the very top. So you just stick it in there, like that, apply pressure. Now you can move this other rail out of our way so we can see a little bit more what's going on right here. All right, so we can see inside of it now. You can kind of see that plate being pushed around. And really my goal here is to get that spot that kind of pops up just a little bit and go into that indention. Now I'm just gonna kinda maneuver this a little bit more. Get my hand more in there. There we go. That's kind of on there. And what the goal is is we're gonna drop this extra long bolt with a washer that connect to that and attaching it down. So I'm just gonna maneuver that cover rail, push it through here, then tighten that down into place. Now if you're finding that there's a lot of resistance with that thread there, with the bolt itself, there's just gonna be a little bit more resistance since this is, it's gonna have that type of coating on there. But what you can do is just completely take this out, thread it off from the side, and make kind of clearer path, make that a bit easier. This also ensure that you're not cross-threading it too. We'll get to a point where you're gonna have a decent amount of resistance. Then you can just grab a socket and wrench and we just want to get this a little bit tightened down, just enough to have a little resistance there. And then we can move to the front side, which is gonna be a little bit easier. (ratchet cranking) Now for the front pocket, what you might have to do is have this cut out. What's gonna go a long way for you though is if you do it on a sunny day, let this sit out here and let that kind of soften up so it's easier to cut. And a new blade is gonna go a long way with something like this. And then we can grab our string. We wanna grab that same plate that we used on the tailgate side, but we're also gonna pair it up with two of these other ones. These are not gonna be threaded at all and they're gonna have the rounded edges on 'em. We're just gonna stack those together, put a string through here. Almost there. Once that passes through, do it on the other side. And then we're gonna make sure they're equal length on both sides. From there, we can tie a knot at the very end of it once I get that to pass through. There it is. That's pretty even there. A little bit off, but that'd be close enough. Then we'll just tie those together then. There you go. What we're gonna do is drop that into this pocket. When you're dropping it into this pocket, you're gonna have to put it in at a bit of an angle 'cause this is a tight fit. And then I found that you kind of have to be kind of perfect with it. Sometimes once I get caught somewhere else, but this is how it should look. Should almost be flush. And then we'll just pass that through the elongated hole on our rail. This is the tricky part for me, honestly, is trying to maintain a pretty tight grip on this as you do this, so you might have to lift up on that rail. I'm gonna try and guide it through here. There we go. That's looking pretty flush. And then I'm gonna grab some hardware. It's gonna be a shorter bolt that's gonna grab right on it here. And the bolt you'll be using exactly is gonna be this flange bolt, and it's gonna be paired up with a washer. You're just gonna tighten that down, just hand tight. And we're gonna do some adjustments here with how it's sitting. The exact adjustments we'll be making are gonna be making sure that this whole cut out here is pretty much in line with the inner wall of our bulkhead. Another thing I would recommend doing is just measuring the distance from the end of this rail to the end of this cap. And this is gonna make sure we can keep this even on both sides. It's not a bad idea that maybe to push this in some and tighten it, but we can still can make plenty of adjustments later on. But from here, you just gonna repeat this process on the other side. So for this next part, you're gonna have a couple friends help you out with this. One on each corner is gonna go a long way. And we're gonna put this topper around those brackets we just put on our bed. So we're gonna lift up a bit, taking our time. There we go. You want that side that has that opening on the tailgate side, and we're just gonna set it right down and then we're gonna grab some hardware. We're gonna grab those 3/4 inch carriage bolts. We're gonna grab the nut with it, push it through each one of these holes. You're gonna start from the very one end and work your way down to the other. And then you're gonna do that on both sides. All right, so we pulled our vehicle inside, just get outta the Sun, and now we're gonna start working on the roof part of this. So I've already set this down in place, and what I'm looking for when I'm initially setting it down is just trying to line it up with the holes on here, and the easiest ones to line it up with are gonna be the ones on each corner. Now we're can actually start moving on to our hardware. Already got a couple pieces in here, but we're gonna take our 3/4 inch long carriage bolts. We're gonna just stick 'em through these square holes on here. And we're gonna do this throughout the entire perimeter of this. There's a couple tricks to doing this too, is I'd recommend starting on this side closest to your cab. You might have to lift up on there a bit to kind of get everything to align properly. But at each corner, there are gonna be these two larger holes. That's gonna require a different carriage bolt, but we'll go over that later on, and then we can secure these down with some nuts. But there are gonna be a couple of spots where we won't secure 'em down quite yet, and I'll show you that now. Now the exact bolts that we're not gonna put those nuts on quite yet are gonna be some of these ones here on the side, and those are gonna be the ones that sit on either side of one of the folding points. We just play a little bit of pressure here, so we can get that to go through here. (metal clacking) There you go. So for right now, we are not gonna put one of these nuts on this bolt or one that I'm gonna put right here. Same thing for this point and this point. And the same thing that's gonna be for a point here and a point here, and that's gonna be same for both sides. All right, so now we're gonna move over to those corners I was talking about earlier and I want to grab those larger carriage bolts. Now I already have someone on the outside, applying pressure to the top of it. That is gonna go a long way. You can do it by yourself if you're trying to tighten these on very loosely and lightly. But the front side by your bulkhead is gonna be a little bit different 'cause it's gonna require you having this little plate that we're gonna push on first. And then we'll grab one of these larger locking nuts. We're just gonna hand tighten that. Gonna finally have some resistance at some point. I'm gonna stop there. And then we're gonna do that right here. Do that on both sides of the bulkhead. I'm gonna try not to drop my nuts. And then we're gonna repeat this on the tailgate side. Now the tailgate side is not gonna have this plate. And I also wanna show you something else. While down here, this is what I was talking about. These two spots here do not have nuts that are gonna be either side of this hinge point. The reason why we can't have those nuts being on there quite yet is 'cause we still need to put these bars across. So you're gonna have three of these. I already got a couple of them installed now. You're gonna put that square flat foam pad on here. You want that centered. And there's be two of them, that would be 12 inches in length. Once you've done that, then we can start putting it up. So to put it up, you're gonna have to put some brackets up, and the bracket we're gonna be using is gonna be shaped like this. And when you have it inside of here, we want in this orientation when it goes up, and we're gonna line it up with those two bolts I was just talking about. Now I'm not gonna put this one on quite yet. I already have one very loosely installed. You just put some nuts underneath there. The reason why I do it that way is because I'll be able to guide one side of the bar on. With that in place, I'm gonna go all the way to the other side now. I'm gonna have my buddy, Isley, help me out. He's gonna apply some tension to these carriage bolts so it doesn't pop out on me as I'm trying to put these on 'cause this is gonna have a little bit of tension on there. Then we're gonna grab some nuts and cap them off. You are gonna have one per side. And now we're gonna grab the rear door now, and I'm gonna have Isley help me out again. And this one, this is going a long way if you have a friend help you out. We're just gonna tilt this til it lines up with a hole here. Oops. There we go. And we're gonna put a little bit of pressure there and slide it across until us right about center. We can keep going a little bit more my side, and I'm pretty much flush here, and lower it down. Now we can grab our gas struts. The one with this end, we are gonna put on the bottom. So just line it up right here, press it into place, you're gonna be good. And we're just gonna rotate that so it lines up with this other ball joint here. And press that into place, just like that. And then we're gonna repeat this process on the other side. And now we can secure this into place. So what we're gonna do is you're gonna have two Torx bolts. Gonna be fairly small. And there's gonna be a tiny hole that it goes into right here. And then we just come back over here and we're gonna tighten this down. This is gonna ensure that the door does not slide back and forth on our topper. Let you have one side done, repeat that on the other side. And from here, we're gonna tighten down all these bolts. Now there is gonna be a set order. Where I'm gonna start with are the ones at the corners where the stake pockets are. (ratchet cranking) Now when you're doing this, you also wanna ensure that it's not too far in or out. I wanna mention that before we get too much further. So right now mine's pretty much lined up with our bed rails. Honestly, I can probably adjust it a little bit more. I'm just gonna push that in some, so it's more in line here. We're also gonna check the front by a bulkhead to make sure we're lined up over there. But if it looks good, tighten them down. So the order in which you tighten them all down is, of course, starting with those ones in this stake pockets. Once there's a all four tightened down, we are gonna go over to this rear bracket. There's gonna be a bracket on the sides that attach to it at this corner on either side. Once those are done, then we're gonna come to the front, and we're gonna start at the very bottom, at this corner, and we're gonna work our way up on either side. And then we'll attach this front panel to the top, going with these ones here. Not doing the corners quite yet. Then we'll go around to the sides on either one, going this way and then attach these bolts on that bracket to that top roof panel. Once those are done, then we'll come over here to the bottom, do all these on both of your brackets that are sitting on your bed rails. And then finally, we're gonna come over to the corners. We're gonna start with the front side. We're secure these two bolts. And I do recommend having a friend with you 'cause they're can apply pressure to the top so these don't move around on you. And then we'll do the ones on the two back points. Once you're done tightening everything down into place, then we can grab some actual black sealant and you can go to all the corners where you see some daylight coming through. If you have some access, that's okay. You can save it just in case you're driving for a couple months. You noticing there's a spot where a little bit of water is coming through, you can apply some more. And now we can kind of go over to some of the smaller details, so like this vent. So when you put this vent on, it doesn't matter which way you have it, it'll still extend either way. So I'm just gonna set it right where we have this larger opening, like that. And before we do this, I almost forgot, I did come back through here and put some of that foam seal all the way around the perimeter of this. It's just one continuous strip, kinda the process we did with the rest of them. I'm gonna set this down now. I'm gonna grab the hardware, that's gonna be some of these bolts, and these are gonna have the Philip-head to 'em. That kind of what sets 'em apart from our other ones so far. And I'm just gonna try to line up with these holes. Once I get it lined up, I'll start popping those through. Pretty much I'll just do the whole perimeter lined up first. Once I have those old lined up, then I'll go underneath and I'll grab these smaller black nuts, hand tighten 'em on. And once it all in place, finishing tidying them on with this Phillips-head screwdriver. And now we can start moving over here to the light. So the best way I think to start off with this is we got this foam pad, we get it attach. So I just started with the very end of it, peel that off a bit, and I lined up the opposite side first so I know this side would look good. That one always looks perfect. And what I then did was continue to go down and I got to this point here. I just grabbed some scissors and cut off that excess. I wanna see if I can get in my hands again. There we go. Peel that back. Apply some tension to there. Just run your thumb across it, trying to keep it in line. And then we'll eventually get to the end, just like that. And then we can actually mount it up here. All right, so now we are gonna grab that light. And there's gonna be a hole at the very center here. We're just gonna fit that through. Gonna be kind of a tight squeeze, just kind of push on it some, you'll be able to get it up through there eventually. There it is. I'm just gonna wrap that wire through. Eventually, we able to look right from the other side and pull it through over. With it like that, we then are gonna grab some of this hardware. This is gonna be usually already put together. So you're gonna have a small nut and a split washer, and this is gonna be a Philip-head bolt. Just take off that nut, split washer. And then I'm gonna climb up on here. I gonna fit these through the holes. Now, what you probably have to do is I poke this through somewhat, 'cause we're gonna have some of that away. What you do you through that hole there. And then you'll put that split and that nut, having my hand here on the other side to secure it down. And from here, with this wire sticking out and we got that light or the we tightened down, we're gonna connect the rest of that wire harness to your light. It just line up the two holes on there, press 'em in together, and then we're just gonna thread this on and lock it in place. Once you got that on there fairly tight, then we're gonna route this to the front of our vehicle. We're gonna come out underneath the driver's side door. Now the way we're gonna do this is one I wanna make sure there's no tangles in any of this. There is, just fix 'em now. And we're gonna take the other end. And typically I would pair this up with an arrow hose. I'm gonna wait to do this, because I'm gonna route this through, not these three holes, but this one right here. I tried this earlier, and this was able to fit through here fairly well and I didn't have any obstacles on the other side. Once I get it through the other side, then I'm gonna tie it off to this, or tape it off, I mean. And I'll show you the route that I used to connect it to the front of our vehicle. And from here, we routed our wire through a rubber grommet. That's gonna come up and it's gonna be underneath that floor mat. And we took the bare wires from the topper itself and we spliced that into one end of our CURT brake controller adapter. Then we take the end, other end of that, and we plugged a brake control port underneath our dash. Our vehicle's brake should turn on along with that third brake light on the shell. And we're looking pretty good there. So what we're gonna do now is I'm just gonna tidy up some of those wires we have 'em in the backside, make sure they're not in my way. They're just tucked up away from somewhere. I recommend just zip-tying someplace. And that pretty much do it, Now if you guys have any other questions, let us know here at etrailer. And again, I'm Matt, thanks for watching.
Ratings & Reviews
Info for this part was:
At etrailer we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.











Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.
Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.