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  1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Stealth Hitches
  3. 2 Inch Hitch
  4. Completely Hidden
  5. 600 lbs TW
  6. Custom Fit Hitch
Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Item # SH66VR
Our Price: $668.00
Trailer Hitch

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This completely hidden hitch keeps your vehicle looking like it just came off the assembly line. Remove the receiver for a fully concealed look when you're not carrying your bikes to the trail. Only for use with hitch-mounted racks and carriers. Great Prices for the best trailer hitch from Stealth Hitches. Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" part number SH66VR can be ordered online at or call 1-636-306-4830 for expert service.
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Stealth Hitches Trailer Hitch - SH66VR

  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • Stealth Hitches
  • Completely Hidden
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

This completely hidden hitch keeps your vehicle looking like it just came off the assembly line. Remove the receiver for a fully concealed look when you're not carrying your bikes to the trail. Only for use with hitch-mounted racks and carriers.


  • Custom-fit rack receiver lets you carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Totally hidden design offers a clean, from-the-factory look
    • Cross tube is concealed behind your rear bumper
    • Receiver detaches with no tools and can be stowed away when not in use
  • Sturdy center block allows secure mounting and easy removal of rack receiver
    • Integrated lock protects the rack receiver from theft
    • Durable stainless steel construction resists corrosion
  • Hitch won't affect ground clearance or block your trunk's foot-access sensor
  • Simple, bolt-on installation - no drilling or welding required
    • Uses existing connection points to protect your vehicle's crumple zones
  • Black powder coat finish offers superior rust protection
  • Meets SAE J684 safety regulations
  • Made in the USA


  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Note: This rack receiver is for hitch-mounted accessories only. The receiver tube included with this hitch cannot be used for towing.

If you would like to upgrade this rack receiver for towing, you will need to purchase the Stealth Hitches towing kit (391CONVD5 - sold separately). The ball mount included in this kit inserts into the center block of the hitch in place of the receiver attachment. A 2" hitch ball is included with the ball mount, making it ready to tow with out of the box.

  • Maximum gross trailer weight with towing kit: 8,000 lbs
  • Not rated for weight distribution systems

If you want to take your bikes to the trail with your family this summer, you have plenty of options. You can carry your bikes on top of your car with a roof rack, but that bulky rack can increase drag on your ride. You can use a trunk rack, but that's a pain to mount and it can scratch your car's paint. Or you can install a hitch on your ride and use a hitch-mounted bike rack to carry your bikes.

This rack receiver is designed to act as a mounting point for your hitch bike rack or cargo carrier. Just slide the shank of your carrier into the receiver for use, and when you're done you can not only remove the carrier, but the receiver as well, leaving your vehicle looking clean and unmodified.

Completely Hidden Design

Nothing can ruin the clean, stylish look of your vehicle like a giant piece of metal bolted beneath its bumper. Luckily, with the Stealth Hitches rack receiver, you never have to worry about messing up your vehicle's lines.

Removable receiver

This hitch installs behind your bumper, keeping the cross tube concealed and leaving only the hitch receiver visible. Even better, the receiver can be easily removed from the cross tube when it's not in use so that you won't see any trace of the hitch. This means that you can retain that clean, from-the-factory look for your ride, while still being able to carry your bikes and gear on the next family road trip.

Simple Set Up

The receiver can be attached or detached in seconds with no tools required. To insert the receiver, simply pop the base up into the stainless steel block at the center of the hitch until it automatically latches in place.

push lock

Be sure to then press the lock on the side of the block to fully secure the receiver. When you're finished carrying your bikes or cargo, use the included key to unlock the latch. Then turn the handle on the block clockwise and remove the receiver. You can stow the receiver in a safe place, like your vehicle's rear cargo area, or you can use a convenient carrying case (391CASER - sold separately).

hitch plug and center block

And when you're not using the receiver attachment, the included hitch plug covers the center block's opening to protect the hitch's body from dirt and debris. Technical Support

At we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it, and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.

SHR31033 Stealth Hitch Hidden Receiver Rack Package - Custom Fit - 2"

Installation Details SH66VR Installation instructionsAlternate Instructions SH66VR Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

Video of Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver Installation - 2022 BMW X7

Hey everybody, how's it going Today we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the Stealth Hitches trailer hitch receiver here on a 2022 BMW X7. So for starters, this hitch is available in two different options. We have the rack receiver version, which comes with a trailer hitch and our two inch opening here. This is gonna be designed for hitch mounted accessories, such as bike racks and cargo carriers. You cannot tow with this, but if you do need to tow, there is an option for this. It's gonna come with the additional towing kit.

Our towing kit is gonna allow us to tow a trailer. It's gonna provide us with our ball mount and our two inch hitch ball. It's gonna provide us with a seven way wiring harness as well as a four way adapter. So we can tow those trailers and make sure the lights work. And also with our towing kit, we're gonna get that rack receiver as well.

So there's two different options, the rack receiver, which just comes with this or the towing kit, which comes with both of these. So speaking of our trailer hitch, it's actually completely hidden behind the bumper here. So we're gonna get a 100% factory like finish when we're not towing, and this is what it's gonna look like. Just like it was when we didn't have the hitch installed, which is great. It actually replaces the factory bumper beam, which is how it allows the hitch to be tucked back up in there.

So when you are ready to toe or haul your bike rack, we'll just take either of our receivers here, go ahead and remove this rubber plug at the bottom. Make sure you're locking knobs in the unlocked position, line up the hole there. And you're just gonna put pressure straight up. So you hear it click, and now it's locked in the place and we're ready to go ahead and attach our bike rack or our cargo carrier. Or if we have the ball mount, we can go ahead and couple our trailer it's that easy.

And when we're ready to be done, all we need to do is come up here, turn this handle, which is tucked up beside the bumper here. It is kind of hard to see, and then our accessories should just fall out. So something else that's great is that while we have our accessory in there, there's a lock on the other side, it's kind of tucked back up in there. So it's hard to see so we can actually lock that accessory to the vehicle here. So we don't have to worry about anyone coming up and stealing it. So if you're looking for the best top of the line trailer hitch option for your X7 here, this is definitely gonna be the one you're gonna want to choose that hidden design is really a major deciding factor for a lot of people with these X7s 'cause they look really nice and we don't want something bulky sticking down behind the bumper there, taking away from the overall look of our vehicle. So having the ability to remove those accessories is really a game changer. Now getting into some details here in regards to the towing specs here of the trailer hitch, which is actually tested separately of the vehicle. Therefore, if the vehicle is rated lower, that's the one you'll need to abide by. But while we're towing using the included ball mount and hitch ball our capacity is gonna be 8,000 pounds for the gross trailer weight and 800 pounds for the tongue weight. Now, when we're using the rack receiver here, it's gonna have a 600 pound tongue rating. So a slight reduction there, but 600 pounds is more than enough for your bikes or cargo carrier, whatever you want to throw on there. So if you're wondering where your safety chain loops are when you're towing, these are tucked back under here as well. And you can see they're just gonna be on the bottom of that little rack receiver there very accessible. And we have plenty of room there for that smaller S hook and even actually the larger clevis hook as well. So if you have a model with a built in hands-free lift gate, luckily with the trailer hitch installed, that's still gonna be fully functional and operational. So you don't have to worry about any loss of features here with this trailer hitch. So on the driver's side of our latching mechanism, if you look up here, you're gonna see a seven way trailer connector. So if you did opt for the one with the towing kit, it's gonna come with the seven way here as well as a four way adapter. So you're gonna be able to tow any trailer with a seven way or a four way, which is gonna cover the vast majority of trailers on the market. Now, this kit also comes with a nice wiring harness there, it's a powered wiring harness. So you don't have to worry about pulling lights for the trailer, from the vehicle and everything is gonna have circuit protection there. So you don't have to worry about any issues with the trailer affecting your lights on the vehicle. So in regards to installation, this one really isn't that bad. You do have to take off the rear bumper cover. And I know that may scare some of you guys, but it's really not at all that bad on the X7 here. It's definitely still achievable for a weekend warrior. Just give yourselves around three to four hours depending on your experience level and depending on whether you opted for that towing kit or not. But the only thing you will need, you might not have. That's a torque wrench. You can actually rent those for free from most local auto parts stores. Let's go ahead and jump into the installation now. So the first step of our installation today, we need to open up the hatch on our vehicle. We're gonna come in here to either side to remove our cargo storage panels. So here's what the one over on the driver's side looks like. They're very easy to remove. We just simply pull down on that there and then we should be able to pry it out. And again, there's one on each side, we need to remove them both. So behind that cargo panel, over here on the passenger side, you're gonna have a 10 millimeter nut tucked back in there. That's holding our taillight to the body of the vehicle. So just go ahead and take a long extension with a deep well socket. We'll go ahead and get that out. I'm gonna try my hardest, not to lose that nut back behind there. So once I get it off, I'm gonna try to grab it by hand. Now we have this same nut over here on the driver's side, but this one is a little bit harder to see it's tucked back there behind some wiring harnesses and other electrical components. So it's gonna be the same removal process for either side, but this one is just a little bit harder to see. So now inside this little area here between the body line and we have the weather stripping here for the hatch. If we come down a little bit, we're gonna have these little plastic trim panels here. If you take a tool, a little plastic trim panel removal tool, you sneak it behind this plastic here. You should be able to pry out to remove this cover. So we need to do this on both sides here. You can see the little fasteners they just push straight in. So we just pull straight out. We need to remove 'em on either side. So once we have those covers off, we're ready to remove our tail lights. So in order to do that, there's gonna be two different kinds of fasteners. You have two torque screws up here, you remove those using a T 30 bit, and then we have a screw down here or you remove using an eight millimeter bit. So you wanna make sure that you hold on your tail light while you're removing these. And it looks like I'm gonna have to switch tools here to get this bottom one because this weather stripping is in my way. So now once we get the tail light out, there is a little clip here on the bottom. So you're gonna pull out that red locking tab, then you're gonna depress that and then you can remove it. So we'll go ahead and give you a better view of that now. So here's that red locking tab. You just simply pull that out and away from the tab and there's the tab, you can press there to release the clip and allow you to pull it out. But we've got this side out. Let's go ahead and do that same thing over on the other side. Now we'll be coming down to our rear bumper here. We're gonna removing a couple clips located behind this section of our trim panel here. So we don't need to remove it completely. We're just gonna remove this first couple clips or so. We're gonna take a plastic trim panel tool and I'm gonna pry out. And while I do that, I'm simultaneously going to pull out as well. So some of these clips can be difficult to remove, which is why I'm using this trim panel here, but just take your time. We should be able to get 'em all out without breaking any. So here's what our clips look like there. And basically we just need to depress that tab there to pull it out. So we've got this bottom one here. There's gonna be another one in this area here. So I was having a little hard time here with some of the other trim panel tools I was using. So I switched over to this one here, which has more of a finer tip, and I was able to get that in there and press that clip down. So once I get those clips released, if we wanna count 'em here, there's 1, 2, 3, that we went ahead and pulled out. Once I do that, I'm gonna take a wadded up piece of paper towel, and I'm just gonna shove it back there. And this is just going to allow our trim piece here to sit out a little bit from the bumper. So we're not scratching it, getting it on and off the vehicle, but the whole reason we need to do that is there's two little screws behind here that we need to remove with an eight millimeter socket. So now that we have this side complete, we'll go ahead and just jump over to the other side and repeat those same few steps. So next thing we need to do is we're gonna come to our sin of our bumper here and we're gonna be removing these reflectors. So in order to do that, we're gonna be taking a trim panel tool there. I'm gonna be sneaking it back behind this area here, and I'm just gonna be prying out. You do need to be careful with this because these things are pretty easy to break. So just take your time here, just go ahead and release the clips like so, you can see no broken tabs. So behind that reflector, we're gonna have a screw tucked in there. We'll remove with an eight millimeter socket, you need to do this on both sides. So now underneath the vehicle here, we're gonna have several screws we need to remove, I believe there's around 20 of them. So we need to go ahead and take some time to remove each of these. They're gonna be along the outside edges here. We'll remove those using a 10 millimeter socket. So again, there's several of these. So just go ahead, take some time, make sure you get 'em all. So once we get all those screws off the underside, these panels are kind of falling out on me. So I'm just gonna go ahead and remove them now, they're just held in place with some clips. So now we're gonna come to either side of our bumper here, and we're gonna begin pulling out on the side here to release the clips. So they're pretty easy along the sides here, but once we get up to the center, it's gonna be a little bit more difficult. But for right now, just go ahead, jump over to the other side, do that same thing, release these clips here on the side so we can pull it out and way. So a quick little tip here, in order to prevent scratches, I recommend taking some painters tape in either applying it to both of the edges here where our two painted pieces meet, or if you're just gonna do one, I would do it here to the body. So we're gonna go ahead and do that now. And it's also a good idea to make sure that your vehicle is washed or isn't any dirt on there. Cause we do have to touch the bumper in touching it with the dirt on there could create scratches. So we're just gonna go ahead, take some extra measures of precaution here to ensure we don't damage the finish. So now that we've got the outside clips removed here, there's gonna be a couple in the center here that we need to remove. So you're gonna take the bottom portion of your tailgate, put it up about halfway kind like an angle like we have it. And then we're gonna take an Allen key here and we're gonna use this to pop out some of the clips here. So if we look in here, these are the clips we're actually looking for. And they're kind of hard to see, but there's those little tabs right there. We're just gonna use this Allen key to press those down and they should give away. As soon as you put some pressure on them there, you can see there, we've released those. So now we're gonna get an extra set of hands. Go ahead and tear this bumper off the vehicle, find a safe place that we can set it aside so it doesn't get damaged. So having done this before, I know that there's gonna be an increased point of contact between the plastic fascia and our metal tailgate at this point here. So what I recommend doing is I recommend just putting some tape, some painters tape here on the inside, just to protect that painted surface there. That way we don't get any scratches. So it looks like we do have an electrical plug over here on the passenger side that we need to remove. So that's what this one here looks like. And there's gonna be a tab on either side that you press, you can see there's one there, one there, and we can just pull it straight off. So under our tailgate here on either side, we're gonna have these little plastic covers we need to remove. First step of that is using a 10 millimeter socket removing that nut up there, and then once we get that off, we're gonna have two little rivets here. So one here, one here, push pins whatever you wanna call 'em, We're gonna take a Flathead screwdriver, pry open the center section on that. And then the rest of it should follow the other ones tucked back there a little bit further. It's definitely a lot harder to see. So once we have that out, we should be able to wiggle this panel out, and as we said, there's gonna be one on either side. So next we're gonna be lowering our exhaust. So on either side, you're gonna have a nut tack tucked back up in here. That's securing your bracket to the bumper beam flange. So we're gonna take a 13 millimeter socket. Go ahead and remove that on either side. Next over here on the passenger side, on the bottom of our reinforcement beam, we have a little wire guide clip. Go ahead and remove that just like so. Next we're gonna be removing this panel here. This is your kick sensor. So this is held place with some of these pushpin fasteners. So we need to go ahead and remove those. So just like that. Now keep in mind, we're gonna be saving three of these for reinstallation. The others can be discarded. Once you get that last one out, make sure you go ahead and hold onto this, 'cause it will fall. But we do have one electrical connector that we need to unplug to remove this completely. So it's just gonna be that little button there. We'll go ahead and set this aside. Now we're ready to remove our reinforcement beam here. So this is gonna be holding the place with four nuts on either side, we're gonna need an 18 millimeter, D 12 socket and a six inch extension to remove all these. The nuts we'll be keeping and reusing. The actual reinforcement beam we'll be discarding because our trailer hitch will actually replace that. Now that we have all of our nuts removed, we should just be able to remove this from the vehicle by pulling straight out on the passenger side, you do kind of have that wiring harness that you need to work around. And behind the reinforcement beam, we have a spacer beam as well. That's just gonna pull right off. We'll be removing and discarding that as well. So now we'll go ahead and take our trailer hitch and set it onto the factory studs. It is kind of tricky over there on the passenger side, 'cause you have that wiring harness, and once we get it on here I'm gonna use the factory nuts there and just place two on the top on either side for now. So now the reason we didn't put the two nuts on the bottom yet is because we have to install our exhaust hanger bracket like so. So once we get that in place, let's go ahead and start threading on those nuts. And there's one of these for each side. Now pay attention to the way that this bracket is coming down there. You don't want it to come out the top. So basically just make sure it's not flipped and it's in this orientation. So now that we have all of our hardware loosely in place, we'll come back with our 18 millimeter socket and snug it down. With everything snug, we'll come back with our torque wrench here and torque it down to specifications. Listen to your instructions. Next thing we're gonna do on either side is secure our exhaust hanger bracket to the bracket that we installed on the hitch. So one of these holes is gonna line up with that tab there. The other one you're gonna place the hex fastner that comes in your kit through. And it'll secure to the bottom like so. So once we get that on there, we'll go ahead and tighten it down with a half inch socket. Next we need to install our latching block. Looks like this, make sure the handle is on the passengers side. The lock core is on the driver's side. So the installation of this is gonna vary depending on if you have the rack receiver or the towing kit. The rack receiver is just that two inch hitch that we use for bike racks and cargo carriers. The towing kit is gonna come with a ball mount. If you're towing, you need to make sure that you use these little safety chain plates. So you just go ahead and slide those over the knob there, just like so, and then make sure you use the two bolts for the towing. The rack receiver is pretty much just gonna be the same for the exception of this plate here. And we'll use the bolts for the rack receiver that come with that. So just line everything up here as best we can. Our bolts are gonna install from the passenger side to the driver's side, keep that in mind. It is kind of difficult to line everything up, so just be patient with it. So on the other side, pretty much is gonna be the same thing. Make sure that hole for your safety chains is pointed towards the front of the vehicle, just flip that over. And then again for the towing kit, we have an electrical connector bracket. That's gonna install just like that. And then we'll go ahead and thread on our nuts. So if you just have the rack receiver one, you don't have to worry about these outside brackets or the electrical connector bracket. That's only gonna be for models with the towing kit, go ahead and get these started. And then we'll snug 'em down. So once we have our nuts on there, I'm gonna take a 15 16th inch socket and wrench. We'll go ahead and snug them up. And once we get 'em snug, we'll come back with our torque wrench and torque everything down to the specifications in your instructions. Next we can go ahead and reinstall our little sensor panel here. So again we need to keep three of these from earlier to reinstall this, the rest of them can be discarded. Just go ahead and line everything back up, press those into place, and then make sure you go ahead and plug in your electrical connector over here on the passenger side as well. Then now we'll throw back on these little panels here that go above the flanges for our bumper support, which is now our trailer hitch. So keep in mind these pushpin fashions that went down, we won't be able to reuse, but we can still resecure it using that nut at the top in the back. So next we'll go ahead and install these little cover panels here that covered up the bumper beam plans there, which is now our trailer hitch. So just go ahead and use the fasteners that we removed it and the reverse order we have the two pushpins and then the nut on top. We need to do this on both sides. So now that we've got the trailer hitch wrapped up, we're gonna go ahead and move on to our wiring. So now our wiring is actually pretty straightforward here. We do need to remove a couple panels on the vehicle. There's gonna be a threshold panel here. There's gonna be a couple torque screws on there as well as a couple on top, so go ahead and get that out. And you'll also remove your floor covering just to give you a little bit more room to work. Now, once we get inside here, we should see a couple things. Number one, our battery. We're gonna need to tie into that. And number two, we have our converter box for our unit. So there's gonna be an input and an output side of this converter box, this is the input side. This is the output side. The output side we're gonna run that bundle of wires over here to the passenger side. So there's actually gonna be a large grommet, that's just sort of directly above our trailer hitch where we're gonna be drilling through. So in your instruction, there's a nice template for that. It is a very thick, rubber grommet. You're gonna drill a three eight inch hole through there. Now I do wanna emphasize extreme caution here because there's actually a wiring harness behind that grommet. So I actually recommend just go ahead and pulling that grommet off so you can check behind there to drill your hole through there. That way you're not puncturing any of the wires, but go ahead and take some time there so you can drill that hole and then we'll start feeding our wires out. So here's what that wiring harness looks like, for now we're just gonna leave it dangling down here. We'll show you how we route it over to where the trailer connector is a little bit later, but let's finish up our installation inside the vehicle. So our input side is pretty simple. You're gonna get sort of a bluish black wire and that white wire. We're gonna route this down and under this little air distribution channel here. So one of them is gonna go to the ground and the other is gonna go to the positive battery terminal. Now what I did for the ground, take a 10 millimeter socket, loosen that nut and then use the sort of fork, I don't, it's quite hard to describe there. It's basically a ring terminal with the center section removed. So kind of two little forks on either side crimp that connector onto your white wire, loosen this nut here, slide it on there and then zip it back down. You can see it's nice and secure. Now for your positive terminal connection. You're gonna need to crimp on the fuse holder here. And the other end is just gonna attach to the stud on the positive battery post there you'll use a 10 millimeter socket to get that nut off, put your ring terminal on, and then re-secure the nut, but that's pretty much it for your power and ground connections. Now for all of our inputs here, you're gonna have four of them, a green wire, a brown wire, a red wire and yellow wire. So the red wire is not gonna be used. So we can just go ahead and coil that up and just sort of shove it down there like we did, now the yellow wire and the brown wire we're gonna route down through here over to the driver's side. So our two wire connections are actually gonna be back behind this panel. It's extremely hard to see them, but basically you should just be able to look up there and see where the wires for the taillight connector are coming up. 'Cause they're gonna be pretty much the only ones that are at the top here. So what we're looking for is we're gonna be looking for a green and a blue wire. That's our stop and turn signal circuit. We need to hook that up to the yellow wire and then we're gonna be looking for a gray and a purple wire. That's gonna be for the running light circuit. We need to hook that up to a brown wire. So the connectors that we're gonna be using to attach those wires are gonna be these exact ones found here. And basically what we're gonna do is there's gonna be two little channels, one channel you're gonna loop around the factory wire there, the other channel there, you're going to bring your wire that you attached here coming from the converter box. So you just stick them both in on that side. Then you close this like so, and you'll take a pair of pliers here, close that down and that's gonna lock everything in place. So we need to do that two times on two of those factory wires over here on the driver's side. So now we're gonna have the green wire coming from the input of our converter box. We're just gonna route that down and over here to the passenger side. And we're gonna hook that up to the green and blue wire here behind this panel using the same steps that we just showed you over on the other side. So now we're gonna take our wires that we routed outside the vehicle through that grommet earlier, we're just gonna trace them to the top of the hitch here zip tying it along the way. And right here is where we're gonna have our trailer connector mounted. So we already mounted this bracket previously. There's another one we have to install on here, sort of like this angled looking bracket. So you're gonna go ahead and attach that using the provided hardware, then you can attach the trailer connector to this. Then you're gonna feed your wires through this end of the trailer connector. You're gonna remove these two Phillips head screws on either side and then once you open up the lid, that's gonna allow you to drop out that little terminal block in there. And you just simply attach your wires to that using a Phillips head screw. There's a screw that sort of open up the clamps and just strip your wires, stick it in the correct one and tighten it back down. Now one thing I do wanna point out is there are some color charts on the actual fuse terminal or that block there. So don't use those make sure you follow the instructions for the correct orientation of those wires. But aside from that, it's pretty straightforward, not too bad at all. So now that we have the wiring on the only thing left is to throw the bumper back on and reinstall all those panels that we removed previously. So you can see here, we got our bumper back on and again, we just followed the reverse order of the steps that we used to remove it. So it was pretty easy to do no hiccups whatsoever. So now really the only thing left to do is we do need to trim this little bottom gravel guard. This came out of the center intersection if you remember, and the good thing about this is we already have some cut lines here from the manufacturer. You can follow this all the way here, but when you get to this part, we need to actually make our own cut line, 'cause it has to be larger than what they allow for. So you can see it just kind of came around that little opening there. They tell you to measure down one in three quarter inches from the cut line here, come all the way over. So we're gonna go ahead and take a Dremel tool. Just go ahead and remove that material. If you guys have a set of 10 snips or some heavy duty shears, you can use that as well. So you just saw us trim this center section here. So now we're gonna go ahead and reinstall this on the vehicle as well as our two side panels. So now that we have those underbody panels on, that's gonna do it today for our look and installation of the Stealth Hitches trailer hitch receiver here on a 2022 BMW X7..

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" - SH66VR

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

This completely hidden hitch keeps your vehicle looking like it just came off the assembly line. Remove the receiver for a fully concealed look when you're not carrying your bikes to the trail. Only for use with hitch-mounted racks and carriers.


Hitch was delivered as promised , fit very well with no issues whatsoever



Great service highly recommend .


See what our Experts say about this Stealth Hitches Trailer Hitch

  • Recommended Trailer Hitch for a 2019/2020 BMW X7
    The only trailer hitch which we currently offer for a 2019/2020 BMW X7 is the Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver part # SH66VR. This hitch is a direct bolt-on fit that will be completely hidden behind the rear bumper. It comes with a 2" receiver tub opening which you'll need for a bike rack.
    view full answer...
  • Hidden Hitch that Fits 2023 BMW X7
    Yes, we have the Stealth hitch part # SH66VR that is a confirmed fit for your 2023 BMW X7. This hitch his a totally removable hitch opening so when you aren't using it you would have a hitch setup that is totally invisible.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Trailer Hitch For A 2020 BMW X7
    We can ship The Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2 inch # SH66VR to you in Canada but I do not know where you would be able to purchase it in Canada. The Stealth Hitch is confirmed to fit your 2020 BMW X7 and has a tongue weight up to 600 pounds. This hitch is only used for a bike rack or cargo carrier, but if you do plan on towing you would need The Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2 inch # SH32VR . It has a totally hidden design...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Options For 2022 BMW X7
    There are a pair of trailer hitch receiver options for your 2022 BMW X7, depending on if you are using it for towing, or just for a bike rack and accessory: - Bike Rack/Accessory Only: Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver # SH66VR - Towing: Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit # SH32VR The difference is the # SH32VR comes with a ball mount, wiring kit, and rack receiver, while the # SH66VR comes only with the rack receiver. Since the receiver cannot be used for...
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  • Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver For a 2020 BMW X7 Installation Difficulty
    Yes, we do have the Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver # SH66VR that will fit your 2020 BMW X7. This is one of the more difficult receivers to install as you will need to remove your rear bumper fascia to install the receiver. It will also require trimming of the gravel shield under rear of car (not fascia). If you do not feel comfortable removing this or trimming the gravel shield, you will want to have the installation completed at a service shop. I have linked the instructions for...
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