To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
Wiring a trailer can be tricky, but this Curt T-Connector makes it simple. It plugs directly into the vehicle’s factory connectors, so there’s no cutting or splicing required. Just connect it at the tail light locations and you’re ready to tow with a 4-flat trailer connector.
Some vehicles need extra help powering trailer lights correctly. This harness has an integrated powered converter that draws power directly from the battery instead of the tail light circuit. That keeps the vehicle wiring protected and ensures the turn, brake, and running lights on your trailer all work like they should.
The plug-in design hides neatly behind factory panels, leaving only the 4-flat connector accessible when you need it. When not in use, it tucks away for a clean, factory look. It’s a tidy setup that keeps wiring out of sight and safe from road grime.
If your vehicle didn’t come with a tow package, this harness gives you everything you need for basic trailer lighting. It adds a dependable 4-flat connection for running lights, turn signals, and brake lights—no extra factory wiring required.

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hello, everybody. This is Jeff at etrailer.com. Today we're gonna take a look at this Curt T Connector vehicle wiring harness with the four-way flat trailer connector. Now, this is a custom-fit part. This is designed to fit the 2023 Nissan Aria, and on a custom-fit part like this, I do like to recommend for you to go to our website, use our fit guide, put in your year, model, vehicle, and it'll show you if this will work for your application. Now, basically this kit here provides this four-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer signal lights.
It is compatible with five-pole, six-pole, and seven-pole adapters that we do sell separately. And this does connect very quickly and easily. All you have to do is locate your connection points, which will be behind the taillights, plug in these T-connectors, one on each side, ground your white wire, and then run your power wire to your vehicle's battery. Now, it does include this taillight converter to ensure that your vehicle's wiring will match that of your trailer and it is a powered module, connects directly to the vehicle's battery to avoid overloading your vehicle's electrical system. It is constructed of an SMT technology, which stands for surface mount technology.
Gives you more consistent, reliable performance. It'll maximize your trailer light yield and intensity while producing minimal heat. Also ensures superior operation in rough road conditions. Does even come with this dust cover that you put on the four-way to protect it when it's not plugged in. Few specs of this.
The maximum amp reach for the stop and turn light circuits is three amps per circuit. For the tail and running light circuit, it's six amps per circuit. Does include everything shown here on the table. Now, I do wanna briefly go through how these all connect. Does come with a nice set of instruction that'll describe where your connection points are and how it all connects.
But what you'll do again is go behind your taillights and you'll unplug the connectors behind your taillights and you'll wanna start with the yellow wire, which is for your driver's side. Once you unplug it, you'll plug the T-connector in and then you'll go to the passenger side and the passenger side will have the green wire in it. And again, you'll run this over to the passenger side, plug this into the, behind the tail lights. Now, there is an extra wire here. It's a white wire with an eyelet on it. You do need to connect that to a good clean ground if there's one nearby. If not, they do include a ground screw that you can make your own ground. Once you have your connection there, you wanna attach this black box, this converter box, to a nice flat surface so it doesn't bounce around. It does have a tab on it with a hole. You can put a screw through there, or it even comes with a piece of double-face tape that you can put on there to hold it in place. Then you'll run your length of wire out to the back with the four-way. The last wire you need to connect is the power wire, this black power wire. This will need to go to the battery in the front of the vehicle, and they give you the parts to do that. Gives you this length of wire with the connectors. So you'll take a butt connector, put it on the power wire, and then connect it to one end of this length of wire. Once that's connected, you'll run the other length of wire all the way up to the front. And you don't want to connect this directly to the battery. You want to run it through this inline fuse holder. So you take the other butt connector, put it on there, connect it to one side of the fuse holder, and then on the other side of the fuse holder, you'll take your eyelet connector, connect that, and that'll connect to your battery. Once that's all connected, take the included 10 amp fuse. Put your 10 amp fuse into your fuse connector. Once you get it in there, push it into place, put the cap over there to protect it, and now your system's all ready to go. So you notice they do give you some extra cable ties here to take up any slack in the wiring. But that's gonna do it for the review on this Curt T-connector vehicle wiring harness with the four-way flat trailer connector.
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