Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Video Transcript for Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Nissan Rogue Sport

Hey everybody, Clayton here at etrailer.com. Here at etrailer, we install, test, and review a lot of different products to help you as a customer make more educated decisions before you purchase. Today we're gonna be working on a 2020 Nissan Rogue Sport. We're gonna be taking a look at, and I'll be walking you through how to install the Curt T-connector harness with a four flat. Adding a 4-pole to the back of your Rogue is gonna be a great upgrade. This is gonna allow us to tow a trailer safely.

We're gonna get all those necessary lighting functions to the back of our trailer. We're gonna get our taillight signal, our brake signal and our turn signals. Also there's a lot of cargo carriers and bike racks out there that do require lights. So this is gonna work great for you. Our four pole is going to work with five, six and seven-pole adapters and all of those can be found here at etrailer.

Now this kit is pretty nice. Everything's gonna be included. It's gonna be a plug and play set up. So you're not gonna have to splice into any of your wiring. One thing I really like is that the module box that comes with the kit is gonna protect our factory wiring from any shorts or anything that might happen on the trailer side, then we can make sure that our stock wiring is protected.

In terms of installation, getting this thing installed really isn't too bad. The hardest part is gonna be running our wire from the rear of our vehicle up to the front. With that being said, let's take a look at the installation together now. To begin our installation we're gonna be working in the rear of our Rogue. I'm gonna open up our trunk.

We're gonna come over to our taillight housings. We're gonna have two 10 millimeter screws to remove on each side. With our hardware removed, we now want to pull out our taillight assembly. Now this is going to be pretty tough. Our pins are very tight and the edges of our lights are super thin. So if you grab a trim panel tool and pry on these edges, you need to be really careful but you're gonna have to pull really hard out and kind of pry, kinda work your way around and kind of pry that back 'cause it is gonna pull out towards the rear. So we'll go ahead and do this on both sides. Pry it out, just like that. Then on the bottom of our connectors, yellow push pin fastener for lighting and push that and pull out on that pin. Repeat that on the other side. And I want to grab our wiring. We're gonna grab our side that has the yellow wire. I'm gonna plug that into our factory wiring. That's gonna take that tab, face it upwards push it in 'til you hear a click. We will need to ground our wire up here, and then grab our provided self-tapping screw with our ring terminal. We're just gonna ground that right here. You don't want over tighten this 'cause you don't want to strip it out, but you want to make sure it's nice and snug and that that ground isn't going to shake. We can then take our module and the rest of our wiring and drop that down through the opening right here and grab it at the bottom. Now I want to get all of our wires pulled down. I went ahead and already did that but we need to leave our green wire up. It isn't long enough to make our connection running completely underneath the vehicle, but to get it to the passenger side, all we're gonna do is remove these 10 millimeter bolts on our fascia. Kind of tuck it down here and pull it over that way. That way we do get a little bit of extra length. As you can see, now we have enough clearance. So you just wanna plug these in the same way that we did over on the driver's side. Then we can reinstall our tail lamp assembly in the reverse order we took it off. Now, I connect your power wire. I'm gonna use a heat shrink butt connector. The one that comes in your kit is not heat shrink. It'll work just fine, but I prefer using the heat shrink. You can find these here at etrailer. We're just gonna crimp that onto our wire. Then we wanna grab our long power wire. We're gonna strip the end back. We're gonna add this to the other side of that butt connector. We can grab our heat source and shrink it down. You can then add some electrical tape to help ensure a good connection. We now run our power wire up to our battery. I'll go ahead and do it. And then we'll show you the route we took. The black wires can come out right here by our module. And I ran it up and over our sub frame. You want to make sure to stay out of the way of anything hot or moving. Then we just ran it up this way. And the wire comes down next to our fuel tank. Now I took that wire and just tucked it underneath this heat shield, then it runs down underneath that heat shield. It comes out right here between our heat shield and our underbody panel. All I did was take that and push it through our underbody panel. That's gonna follow this line here. Then it comes out right here and I just ran that up to our frame rail here. There was a nice opening here with a hole, so we just pushed that through and pulled it out. Then I grabbed our airline tube to use as a pull wire. I ran that up to the engine bay. You want to again, make sure you stay out of the way of hitting hot or moving. So we just pushed that up next to our battery. Now we can jump up top and get that wire pulled tight. This is where airline tube comes out and we're just going to pull that wire till it's nice and tight. Just like so, then we can make our connection to the battery. We have part of our airbox covering our battery. So we are gonna have to remove that. We're gonna grab a small flat blade screwdriver, pry up on this plastic pushpin, then we can lift up on our airbox. Kind of wiggle this out of position and lift up like so. Now I'm gonna lift up on our battery cover. That's gonna reveal a 12 millimeter nut. You don't wanna take that all the way off yet but we'll just leave it nice and loose. Then we wanna grab our power wire. We're gonna trim that off. We have our wire strippers, strip back this end. With our wires stripped back, we can grab our heat shrink butt connector, crimp that on. Now I wanna grab our fuse holder. Our fuse holder is going to come pre-stripped. I usually like to strip it back just a little bit more since we are using the yellow heat shrink butt connector. We can then take our fuse holder, add that to the other side of our butt connector, and we'll crimp that down. And then we're going to strip back the other side of our fuse holder. We'll be adding the provided ring terminal. And with that crimped on, you can then take that nut off that we had loosened, we'll slide on our ring terminal, and then reinstall that nut. Now we want to come back and heat shrink this, just like we did our heat shrink butt connector at the rear. Then we wanna clean up our wiring. I'm just gonna zip tie our wiring to this fuse block. Like so. And we can grab our provided fuse and add that to our fuse holder. And we are now ready to reinstall our airbox. Before we mount our four-way with everything hooked up, we wanna get it tested. So to start off, we're gonna do our taillight signal, and then do our brake lights, our left turn, and our right turn. So when we run our wiring over, there is a really good way. Our module's right here. We're going to take that wiring and zip tie it up high to our factory wiring. And it's gonna come and run over the front of our hitch right here. Then our kit does come with a long zip tie so that's really nice. You can zip tie it back to the hitch and then our wiring sits right here. Then we just wanna grab some dielectric grease. You can find that here at etrailer, if you don't have any. We're just gonna add that to our pins. And it's just gonna keep all of our terminals protected. And that's gonna do it for our look at and our installation of Curt's T-connector harness with a four flat on our 2020 Nissan Rogue Sport..