Should Trailer Brakes Alone Be Able to Stop 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup and 6500-lb Travel Trailer

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Question:

I have 2015 KZ Spree 26foot TT. It weighs in at about 6500 lbs loaded. I pull it with a 2004 RAM 1500 crew cab. I recently completed a 6,000 trip out west. When trying to stop the rig using the trailer brakes only, I notice they will provide some drag but will not reasonably stop the rig without the truck brakes being added. I have the electric control adjusted fairly aggressively. Applying full current manually, doesnt seem to provide any additional braking. Is this normal? The brakes are supposed to be self adjusting. Should I be able to stop the rig with trailer brakes only? I can with truck brakes only. Your attention is appreciated.

asked by: Ray L

0

Expert Reply:

The electric brakes on your trailer are not intended to stop your entire rig - both your 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Pickup and your hitched 6500-lb travel trailer - just the trailer itself. Your truck's hydraulic brakes have far more stopping power than the trailer's, which are generally going to be rated only for the trailer's axle weight capacity, not that plus your truck's considerable weight.

In normal driving conditions you will apply the truck's brakes and adjust the brake controller so that it slows the trailer at a reasonably similar rate and with a similar force, to minimize the "tail wagging the dog" sensation.

Some controllers like the Prodigy series # 90885 and # 90195 are proportional types that sense the truck's braking action and generate a proportionate trailer braking level. There are also time-delay type controllers that apply a pre-set amount of braking force with a pre-set time delay no matter how hard you step on the truck's brake.

The manual override on any brake controller will generate the amount of braking force that you have selected with its controls. The manual override function is not the same as the boost and level settings that can be chosen on the controller; it simply sends out the chosen braking power you have already set.

Self-adjusting brakes do still require some initial adjustment when installed; and they can take some time to dial themselves in. Certainly after a 6000-mile trip your brakes should have settled in.

expert reply by: Adam R

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Answer 1

Randy, I have a couple routes you can go since the grease zerk on the Dexter Heavy-Duty Suspension Kit #K71-448-00 is not going to fit inside your hanger. We do have the Triangular Equalizer #TREQ310 but this comes with nylon inserts so you would…

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Answer 2

Since the trailer was off of the ground it would not take much voltage to stop the wheels from spinning so they may be getting power but they may not be getting enough power due to a short or wiring issue. But 9 times out of 10 weak trailer brakes…

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Answer 3

The best brake controller option to go with is one that activates the brakes proportionally instead of time delayed. A proportional brake controller will activate the trailer brakes at the same time and with the same intensity as the tow vehicle…

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Answer 4

Electric brakes have 2 wires located at the back. One is for power and the other is for ground (it doesn't matter which is used for which function). The ground wires should be connected to the trailer frame. The only other place that would carry…

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Answer 5

Since your brake controller appears to be working - 3 of the 4 trailer brake assemblies work correctly - the issue is likely to be on the trailer side. The issue with one of your four brake assemblies locking up could be due to it needing adjustment…

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Answer 6

There are a few things that can cause the brakes to lock up on a trailer. First, disconnect the trailer from the vehicle. Then use a circuit tester like #PTW2979 if needed to test the connector on the vehicle. Have someone sit in the truck and run…

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Answer 7

To wire your electric brakes you will want to run 10 gauge wire #10-1-1 to one of the brakes and run it to the other brake, using butt connectors like #05732-2 to connect them. The grounds will not be spliced, each brake assembly should have its own…

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Answer 8

In order to determine the torque rating for the lug nuts on your trailer you will need to know check out the chart I attached that shows all of the torque specs for all the trailer lugs available based on stud size, wheel material and wheel size.

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Answer 9

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

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Answer 10

Even though I cannot comment specifically on the grease you used because I am not familiar with it, I can tell you the best grease for trailer bearings is a a grease with a rating of GC-LB, which just means it is made to withstand very high…

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Answer 11

You can use leaf springs that are rated higher than the axle without any issues as long as they measure the correct measurement for your trailer. For example the 6-leaf double eye spring for 7,000 lb axles part #e64SR measures 24-7/8" eye to…

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Answer 12

Thank you for providing the specs for the suspension components that you already have. Correct hanger spacing really depends on the components being used such as springs, hangers and equalizers. Most of the hanger spacing dimensions that we have are…

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Should Trailer Brakes Alone Be Able to Stop 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup and 6500-lb Travel Trailer

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