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Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit Installation

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How to Install the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit

Speaker 1: Today on our trailer, we're going to be doing a complete electric brake system overhaul. We'll be using the Dexter never adjust electric trailer brake kit. Part number 23-458-459 and for our bearing and hub assemblies, we'll be using Dexter's trailer drum and hub assembly, part number 8-219-4UC3-EZ.Best part about these brake assemblies is that they come pre-assembled. So you just have to bolt them on. Assembling drum brakes can be a long tedious task. So you don't have to worry about it.

The shoes included have bonded material, so it'll give you a little bit extra life and prevent any rivets from digging into your drum if you brakes got stuck or you worn them too far.They're electronically actuated, so when power and ground is received here at the magnet, it energizes it causing it to grab and as the rotational force causes them to go outward into your drum, allowing you to stop. Since they are electric, their replacement's a lot easier because you don't have to do any bleeding. It's a lot cleaner because there's no fluid and it's full adjustable with your brake controller up in the front.And while there is a location here on the backing plate to manually adjust your brakes, the lever here will automatically the star gear adjusting your brakes outward, taking out any play. So you never need to worry about adjusting because every time you stop your vehicle, it's going to take up that slack.These brake assemblies will work with most standard hub and drum assemblies including Dexter and Alco. They have a five bolt mounting pattern.

And work with wheel sizes of 14 and half inch, 15 inch, 16 inch and 16 and a half inch. And support an axle rating of 6,000 pounds. And now if you're looking on our website at similar Dexter brakes, such as part number 23-464. They're going to operate identical between the two. The only difference is that the 23-464 is slightly heavier duty as it's rated for 7,000 pounds instead of 6,000.This hub and drum assembly is going to be a complete replacement kit for axles of 5,200 pounds to 7,000 pounds.

It's going to work with 12 inch brakes and it has the bearing races pre-installed. It works with an eight on six and a half inch wheel stud pattern. The drum uses a two and a eighth inch grease seal. The inner bearing is number 25580 and the outer bearing is 14125A. The dust cover has a removable center seal, which is great so when it's installed, if you have quick lube setups.

You can hit your grease gun up right in there, grease them up and then just pop the rubber seal back in without having to fight getting this whole dust cap off. We all know those can be kind of a pain. Also in your kit, you're going to receive some brand new lug nuts that'll match up to the studs on your new hub.If you're comparing these to others on our website, such as part number 8-219-13C3, it's going to be similar in just about every way. It's going to come with the same hardware. However, this drum's dust cap doesn't come with the easy lube compatible assembly for simple lubrication. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.We'll start by removing our wheel. We'll take off the eight lug nuts, using a 13/16 inch socket. Now this might vary from your trailer to this trailer. So just make sure you're using the appropriate size. We can then set our lug nuts aside and remove the wheel. Then you'll need to remove your bearing cover cap. You can just use a screwdriver to get in behind the cap and pry it outward. Now you'll need to remove the cotter pin, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend it down straight and then push it up. Once you've pushed it up, you can stick one of the end of the needle nose in the loop at the top and pull it on out. And we can just set this aside.Now you can use a pair of channel locks to loosen up the nut and take it off. Now there is a lot of wheel bearing grease back in here. So wearing a pair of rubber gloves or having plenty of rags handy will definitely make the job be a lot less messy and to organized. And you can just set the nut aside. Behind the nut, you'll find your washer and your outer bearing. To get those off, you'll want to pull out slightly. And then just grab the bearing out of there. You'll set your bearing and your washer aside.Now the whole drum will come off and we can set this drum aside. As you can see here, the shoe material has come loose. So the brakes we're no longer good and all this crud around here indicates that our wheel bearing seal was leaking a little bit of grease. Now we've got access to our drum brakes. Before we take these off and replace those, we're going to clean off the spindle here. So just get all of that old grease off.Next we're going to take off our entire brake assembly here. We're using some penetrant oil on the bolts to help those come loose easier. You want to break them loose by hand first. Our bolts here use a 15 millimeter socket, though yours may differ. Once you've got them all broke loose, then you can take them all the way off. Then we'll take out our last bolt. We can just set those bolts aside.Your electric brakes are operated off of two wires. You need to cut both of those wires and then sauter or crimp them onto the new brake assembly. So we're just going to cut those now. I like to cut them as close to the brake assembly as possible. So that way our trailer's got as much length as possible to still work with. Then you can take this off and set it aside. Once you've got everything apart, it is a good idea to take some brake clean and go over and clean up all of your spindle assembly here. Then make sure to wipe off the area where the seal arides here. So that'll prevent any grease from leaking out of our new assembly.Now we can take our new brake assembly and slide it onto our old spindle here. Make sure that you have your wiring pulled to the side, so it doesn't get bound up or caught on anything. Slide it right onto the studs and then use the hardware provided in the kit to secure it to your studs. These caps we can set aside because we won't be using them til a later step.Always start your hardware by hand to make sure you're not cross threading it. If one of your studs pushes out, just push it back in. You may need to tap it on the backside with a hammer to re-seat it. Then tighten them down using a 15 millimeter socket. Now we're ready to hook up our brakes. So you'll take the wires that you previously cut, strip those back a little bit. Then you can either sauter or use butt connectors to reattach them to your new brake hardware. We're going to go ahead and just use a heat shrink butt connector here. Crimp it on to our old wiring. We'll crimp one onto our other old wiring piece and then we just need to crimp them on to the wires coming off of our brakes.You can hook up either wire on your brakes to either wire on your trailer because they're not directional. As long as it's receiving ground and brake signal, they'll stop. We'll now use our heat gun to shrink down our butt connectors. So that way it'll seal our wires and protect it from any moisture or corrosion. After your wires are all heat-shrinked down, we'll use the tab on the back to secure it to our brake drum. Take up any of that slack that we might have. Because it's always good to leave a little bit of slack in case you need to make a future wiring repair. Simply folds over and then pushes into the back button here on the back.And now you'll repeat the same process on the other side. And if you have any other axles you're going to be doing, you'll do this as well. We're ready to prepare our drum for installation. The bearing races come pre-installed inside the drum. So all we need to do is pack our bearings and put the seal on. Before we pack our bearings, we're going to smear some grease on the cavity inside the drum here, between the two races. Get that kind of filled up. Now we'll pack our bearings.We're going to be using a bearing packer to do this. You can pick up a bearing packer here at So set your bearing packer with the small tapered end facing down and the larger end towards the top. Put the push tool on top of that. And then just press down working it back and forth. This is going to squish the grease up inside of the bearing there. So that way it's fully packed and we don't have to worry about any metal on metal contact occurring. Now we can take our larger bearing and put it in the backside of our drum here, with the smaller tapered end facing inward. It should sit nicely inside the race.We're now ready to put our seal on, but since we've got our bearing packer out and everything. We're going to go ahead and prepare our outer bearing by packing it first. Now we can put our bearing seal in. You want to make sure that you put the end with the spring on the seal facing towards the bearing. So it'll look like this. And then you'll drive it in either using a seal driver or if you don't have the particular seal driver you need laying around, a block of wood always works well. Make sure your block of wood is longer than your seal, so that way you can't push it in too far because it'll bottom out against the hub here. And just tap it into place. Making sure you're kind of driving it in evenly.Once it's all the way down, you'll hear a noticeable difference in the sound of your hammer taps. And then it'll be flush with our hub and it's ready to go on. Before you put your drum assembly on, go ahead and smear some wheel bearing grease all over your spindle here, particularly on the inside and outside bearing edge. You'll want to take the old washer that you removed from your old hub and clean it off because we will be reusing the washer. Just get all that old grease off there.Now we can slide our drum on. Once the drum's slid on, and slide in your outer bearing, followed by your washer. Now you can take the nut provided in the kit and thread it on. Go ahead and tighten the nut down. Now's a good time to ut your tire back on, so you can make the appropriate bearing adjustments. Use the new lug nuts provided in the kit to tighten down your wheel.Now that we've got our wheel on, go ahead and turn the wheel while tightening down the nut. Once you get it all the way tight, we're ready to adjust it. Just make sure we get out any slack and that it's fully seated. So now we're going to back it off and then retighten it. We're not going to go as tight as we did before. We just want to go tight enough to where there's just a hair of up and down play when we shake it. Just a very small, small amount. If you've got too much, just a little bit tighter. And if you have no play at all, you can just loosen it up just a hair. Once you've got it to where there's almost no play, take your nut lock, slide it on over top of your nut there and we're ready to put our dist cap on.Insert the rubber piece inside your dust cap. I like to take a little bit of the wheel bearing grease around the edge and smear that around the outside, just to make the dust cap go on a little bit easier. Then tap your dust cap on using a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer. Just keep working it around until it seats fully.Now that everything's installed and our wheel bearings properly adjusted, the only thing left is to double check our brakes and make sure they're adjusted properly. So I like to give the wheel a spin and listen for any kind of brake drag. As you'll notice here the wheel is spinning and you can see that there's no resistance. So we want to put just a touch of resistance from our brake shoes onto our drum there. So we're going to make some small adjustments using the openings in the back.You can make adjustments to your initial brake setting here through the two holes located on the back of the backing plate. Inside there will be a small star gear that you can adjust with either a flathead screwdriver or a special brake drum spoon tool.We've adjusted it now, so you can hear that slight bit of brake drag that slows the wheel down. So now we know that it's adjusted properly, so when our brakes apply, it's going to apply immediately. Once you've got everything adjusted properly, just take the small plastic caps provided in the kit and insert them in the two holes in the back of the backing plate. Now all that's left is to torque your lug nuts to the appropriate specification.Now you're ready to hook up your trailer and hit the road. And that completes the electric brake system overhaul on our trailer.

Mark P.


It is very important that the new drum needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner before assembly. Dexter ships drums with a thin film of oil to prevent corrosion. Presence of this oil will prevent proper burnishing in of new brake shoes. It is critical the oil should be removed before assembly.

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Employee Jeff D
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Employee Chris R
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