Troubleshooting Non-Functioning Motorized Stabilizer Jacks on 2011 Keystone Sprinter 276RLS
Updated 08/07/2017 | Published 08/05/2017 >
Products Featured in This Question
Question:
I have a keystone sprinter and the stabilizers stopped working. Both switches are dead as if it has no power? I loaned my trailer out and it came back with it not working? Where is the power source? Directly wired into the battery? Its a new battery. Are the switches wired into the main fuse box? Kinda weird front and rear switch inop like its has a blown fuse somewhere? Any suggestions?
asked by: Kevin B
Expert Reply:
If suddenly neither switch/jack operates at all on your 2011 Keystone Sprinter 276RLS travel trailer I would suspect the battery or the 12V connections between it and the jacks. Motorized jacks and slide-outs will demand far more current than things like trailer lights so your battery could have plenty of charge left to operate those things but still have too low a charge to activate jack motors.
Jacks will use more power to lift trailer weight than to lower it. This is why sometimes RV-ers whose batteries may have a marginal charge level may find that they can retract their jacks but not extend them. Since your jacks do not operate at all this makes me suspect that the issue is in loose wiring (or a blown fuse if the jacks have a fuse).
First check that the battery has a full charge; if you test it with a voltmeter like # PT89ZR you should read close to 13-volts.
Keep in mind that the 12V power feed in 7-way trailer wiring can carry enough power to maintain a charged battery but not to re-charge a depleted one. If the trailer jacks were used a good bit on their recent trip then the battery could simply require a charge with a shore power charger like # CTEK56353. Again, if the battery were depleted from use then driving with the trailer connected would not return it to a fully-charged state, no matter how far it was driven.
If the battery tests out okay then next check your wiring from the battery, all the way to the switches. You can apply the meter/tester to the wires leading to the switches; if full power is reaching them then the issue could be between the switches and motors. You can next test the wiring for power at the motors.
If the battery power runs through a power panel then you can also check for blown fuses there.
Product Page this Question was Asked From
Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display
- Electrical Tools
- Testers
- Multimeter
- Yellow
- Performance Tool
more information >
Featured Help Information
Instructions
Continue Researching
- Q&A: Recommended Replacement For An Inteli-Power PD9280 Converter Charger
- Q&A: Trailer Brakes are Very Weak Even After Adjusting Them
- Q&A: Can I Use a 4 Way Vehicle Connector with 7 Way Adapter and the Curt Echo Brake Controller?
- Article: Testing Trailer Brake Magnets for Proper Function
- Q&A: Over/Under Conversion Kit Option For Small Cargo Trailer
- Q&A: Troubleshooting An Everchill RV Refrigerator That Wont Get Cold
- Q&A: How to Verify if Timken 3,500 lb Axle Bearing Kit is Correct for Tracker Boat Trailer
- Article: Brake Controller 7- and 4-Way Installation Kit (ETBC7)
- Q&A: Trailer Lights Wont Work After Wiring Harness Install on a 2001 Lexus RX300
- Article: Wiring Trailer Lights with a 7-Way Plug (It's Easier Than You Think)
- Article: Towing a Trailer? Let's Talk About Brake Controllers
- Article: Trailer Wiring Diagrams
- Article: Troubleshooting 4 and 5-Way Wiring Installations
- Article: Performance Chips and Modules

