Set up your RV's water the way you like, from a city hookup to a gravity fill. Choose plastic or metal flanges, with or without a check valve, and match your plumbing with PEX adapters or MPT fittings. Consider lockable doors or recessed dishes, verify your cutout and depth before mounting, and plan on an external pressure regulator when needed, as inlets may not include one.
Installation is typically straightforward. Reuse existing screw holes or upsize fasteners to hit solid material, and seal the flange with the provided butyl tape if included. Compare your cutout and flange size; you may need to enlarge the opening, but a larger faceplate can cover it. Add an elbow or short leader hose to reduce wear on the fitting.
Sometimes. Certain assemblies have a replaceable check valve while others require replacing the entire inlet. Check whether your inlet's valve is user-serviceable. If it isn't, swapping the complete inlet can be quicker than chasing leaks from a stuck or failed valve.
Match the inlet to how you use water. City water inlets connect to a pressurized hose; gravity fill inlets let you fill the fresh tank from a jug or hose without pressure. Check the hose style on your RV now—pressurized hookup or tank fill. Confirm your cutout shape and space behind the wall before ordering.
Some city water inlets include a check valve, and some don't. If the product doesn't list a regulator, plan to keep using your inline water pressure regulator. If you want backflow protection, verify the inlet specifically calls out a check valve before you buy.
Use a compatible adapter to transition from the inlet's outlet to 1/2 PEX. Confirm the inlet's outlet type (MPT, barb, etc.) and match the adapter accordingly. Crimp or clamp your PEX per the fitting style and verify clearance behind the wall for the adapter and tool.
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