Fogatti InstaShower Ultra RV Tankless Water Heater w/ Mixing Tank and 15" x 18" Gray Door

Video Transcript for Fogatti InstaShower Ultra RV Tankless Water Heater Install - 2025 Airstream Flying Cloud Travel Trai

Hi everyone. Jesse here with etrailer. Today we'll be taking a look at, and I'll show you how to install the Fogatti InstaShower Ultra RV tankless water heater on our 2025 Airstream Flying Cloud. If you've ever arrived at the campsite and maybe you got a little bit messy while you we inchesre setting up camp, you wanted to hop into a nice, relaxing, hot shower, then you know with a tank system, it's going to take a while for that water to fill up that tank and then get sent to the shower. With a tankless system like the Fogatti here, you're going to have that warm water almost immediately. If you're looking to upgrade or replace a water heater, then what you'll have to do is measure out your opening for your existing system.

The Fogatti is going to offer multiple sizes to fit your needs. So what we did was just measured from end to end on our original water heater and matched it up perfectly with the system that we have today. Regardless of what size you get, they're going to come with everything you need to get it installed. So that means you have your main unit, your water heater. You have your door here to keep everything sealed.

You also have a trim ring, which depending on your setup, you may want to install. And then you have a controller where you can monitor your temperature and also make adjustments. They're also going to all have the same specifications and they'll all be capable of 66,000 BTUs, which essentially just means that they're going to have plenty of power to give you hot water at all times. Here's a look at that controller I was talking about. So we had the hot water running earlier.

It's starting to cool down. It's still at 91 degrees. This is where you can monitor the temperature of the water in the water heater or in your lines. And you can also adjust. With this, you have a range from 95 degrees Fahrenheit to 123 degrees Fahrenheit.

Also with this whole system, you're going to have what they call smart burner control, which essentially means you're going to have consistent heat. You don't have to worry about anything like hot or cold spikes. You're just going to have that nice set temperature that you set on this controller. And here's what the back of our water heater looks like. Usually you don't get quite a clear view, but since we do have a nice view of it, I figured I'd show it. There's a couple things that I needed to add on to get this to work and I definitely recommend kind of checking out what your water heater looks like before you go ahead and start tearing things apart. So we did need to get some hoses to extend it out to our PEX lines there. So a couple hoses and a couple adapters. Other than that, we have our wiring here, which was pretty simple plug and play with our setup. And we also have our propane hookup, which our factory line lined up right with the input for our water heater. Now we can take a closer look at the outside of our water heater. With this door, you just want to pull it out and give it a quarter turn. It'll open up. So you can see some nice seals here. It's going to keep everything nice and watertight, at least as far as on the inside of your camper goes. Right here is a drain tube. So if it's reading that it's having too much pressure or the water is too hot, it's going to drain out there. And behind this, behind that hose is a filter. So this is just hand tight. If you undo that, you can clean out your filter. If I take this off, there's a couple things that people, a couple issues that people have if they're calling in about this not working. And almost all the time it's going to either be this fuse here or this on off switch got flipped off. So you'd simply replace the fuse or turn that on and your system should be good to go. Really that's about all there is to it. Tankless water heaters are going to be a huge upgrade from any tank system. They're going to take up less space, be lighter and work faster. And the Fogatti InstaShower Ultra is one of my favorite ones that I've had the pleasure to work on. As for the installation, with our setup, it's a pretty easy swap, just pulling our old system out and putting the new one in. As I said, you will want to look into if you need any additional fittings to get everything to work. If you're not looking to do this yourself, then check out our installer locator. You can find someone local to you that would be happy to get you set up. If you are looking to see how this gets installed and follow along, then I'll walk you through the process. We'll begin our installation by getting access to our old water heater. So ours is actually hidden under this panel here, which is held in by a few fasteners. They're covered up by these plastic plugs. We have three back here against the back wall. Then we have two more screws along this edge here. With all those removed, we'll just carefully work this out of position. And as you pull up, you don't want to pull too hard because there might be a few threads on these screws still holding in. But once you can kind of pull it straight back, we'll be able to work this out of position. And at this point, what you'll want to do is just kind of take a look at all of your connections going into your water heater and compare those to the new ones. Because at this point you don't want to go ripping everything out and then realize that you need an adapter. You want to get that ahead of time. So I'm just going to kind of compare this to the new one and see what kind of adapters we'll need to get everything to work. So I went ahead and brought our new water heater in just to compare the two. Everything is going to match up for us. Our cold water is on the same side. Our wiring, we can just extend that out if we need to. We should have enough extra wire. Our gas is in the same location. The only thing that is not is our hot water. So this is one I'd recommend going to the hardware store, getting some braided line. And with that line, you'll also need a male-to-male connector in order to connect to your factory line. Now you'll want to make sure that your propane tanks are closed and we can remove our propane line just using adjustable wrench to break it loose. We'll unthread that the rest of the way. We'll just tuck it out of our way for now. And then our water lines are just hand tight. And I do have some rags down below because there's going to be some residual water in these, in either the water heater or the lines. So you don't make too much of a mess, make sure you have something there to catch it. And just get both of these disconnected. Now we can start disconnecting our wiring. So if your colors aren't matching up, you'll want to test everything, make sure you know all the functions, and then label them. Ours are all matching up for color for color with our new unit. So I'm just going to disconnect the wires coming off of the water heater. And we're just using WAGO connectors here. So it's a really simple process. Just unlocking it and pulling your wire out. Now on the outside of our water heater, we're going to remove the screws that are holding in our trim ring. Once again, these are Philips heads. And with all those removed, we can start working the old water heater out of its slot. Then we'll set it aside. Now what you want to do is measure the dimensions of your new unit versus your old unit. See if they differ at all. Ours actually match up perfectly. So that means we don't have to do any adjustments of our wood support. It should just slide in and fit perfectly fine. So at this point, I'm ready to pick up our new unit and slide this into position. So as I'm pushing this back, I am having to make sure that my wires are behind it. And then also just about every screw on the bottom, I'm having to kind of lift up on and just slowly working it into position, going as straight as possible. At this point, what we'll do is kind of figure out how our trim ring in our door is going to work. And with our setup, this trim ring is just a little bit too big. It's going to hang over this molding here and also around the curved bottom. So that's fine. We just won't use it. Our door matches up almost perfectly with our old one, but what we'll do is I'm going to set up some butyl tape along the edge here. Your kit will come with some of this foam tape, but since we've had an old water heater taken out and there's also holes through the body of the trailer, I'm going to use butyl tape so we'll have a nice seal. I'm just laying this butyl tape down one side at a time. And then on the corners, I'm going to peel back on the backing and then overlap it. That way we're not having any gaps or anything. We really want to make sure that you're covering all these holes because as we put our screws through, that's going to drive that butyl tape into the holes in the body and help us seal it up. Once you have all that butyl tape on, we can slip our door into place. The trim on the door wants to go on the inside of the trim on the water heater. So just make sure you have that all lined up correctly. You may have to kind of squeeze it in and get everything lined up. Once you get it all lined up correctly, you can take the small screws in our kit and start fastening those in to hold our door onto our main unit. And once it's in far enough that it'll support its weight, I'll come inside and just make sure that we're going up above this wire harness here. And then I'll kind of guide it back to where our old unit was sitting right on top of our support. Now we can start shooting in some screws. I'm going to use the original screws because the ones that come with the water heater are kind of for a fresh new install where you're driving into wood where these are more for the metal studs that we have. So I'm just going to start with this one and then go to the opposite corner. Make sure everything's sitting nice and flush. Now back inside our camper, we can get our lines hooked up. So I did end up adding on a short stainless steel braided line just because it was kind of tight getting our water inlet in. I didn't want to risk bending this PEX tubing too much, but we got that tied in. Then we have our water outlet for our hot water tied in along with our gas. At this point, we can start on our wiring, but I'm going to get our controller set up first. So I'll start with removing the old one, getting this one mounted up, and then running our wires back behind the wall. So our old controller, you'll just have to pop off this trim plate and then remove the two Phillips screws. Then we can try to pull this out a bit. I carefully pulled these wires down revealing two WAGO connectors. So just make sure you have those pulled out of the wall so they won't suck back in. And then we'll get those disconnected right there. Since we don't have to go through the hassle of routing these wires back behind the wall, what we'll do is just make that connection at those WAGOs. So I'll cut off some of this slack here and get these two wires stripped back. So we stripped them back and I folded them over each other just because these are pretty thin wires. Now we can insert them into the WAGO, clamp down on it. Doesn't matter which one you use. Just make sure you get one and one and the other and the other. So now the holes on our new controller are slightly narrower than the old ones. So what I'll do is try to get them lined up just inside those original holes. That way we cover them up as best we can. I'm going to mark those out and drill very small pilot holes for them and drive them in with screws. As far as our wiring connections, it's pretty simple. We're just basically matching colors from the old system, but our white coming out of our trailer wiring matches up with black to be our ground. And this pinkish red wire from our trailer wiring matches up to red for our 12 volt positive. Then the two orange wires are going to match up with our two blue wires. You're going to have butt connectors on the end of these. So you can just cut those off, then strip them back. Once again, this wire's pretty thin on these controller wires. So I'll just take it, kind of straighten it out and fold it back over itself to get it to connect into our WAGO a little better. Now we're hooked up to our water and what we'll do is have somebody else turn our water on so that I can be inside, making sure that there's no major leaks. And once we verify that, we'll pressurize the system and make sure we don't have any small leaks. Now everything's pressurized. I double checked, made sure there was no leaks. You also want to spray some soapy water on your propane connection. And then what I did was turned up our temperature. I've already ran it a little bit, so our water heater's already heated up, but just open up your hot water, make sure and verify that you are indeed getting hot water. Now that we know everything's working properly and we have no leaks, that's going to do it for our look at and installation of the Fogatti InstaShower Ultra RV tankless water heater on our 2025 Airstream Flying Cloud.