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Best 2012 Dodge Charger Hitch Options

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Best 2012 Dodge Charger Hitch Options


Speaker 1: Today, we're going to be taking a look at the best hitch options for your 2012 Dodge Charger. So here, we're going to have our Draw-Tite class three, and right below that, we're going to have our Curt class three. Now, right off the bat, our hitches do look very similar, but there is some big differences to them. For instance, the small difference that we can notice right away is that collar. The Draw-Tite is going to have more of a tapered, rounded look to it, whereas the Curt is going to have more of a flush cut look.Now, just the difference in the way they look .. I will let you know that the Draw-Tite ...

it is going to sit right below the bumper, and we are going to be able to see that cross-tube if we're directly behind our car, because it does sit rather low to begin with. So you want to keep that in mind as far as ground clearance goes, whereas with the Curt, it is going to sit up just a little bit higher right behind the plastic on our bumper, but not high enough to where we're going to have to cut anything.Both of our hitches are going to feature a loop style safety chain connection points. This will be welded on the bottom of the receiver tube, and we're not going to have trouble getting most sized hooks on or off either of them. But one benefit I do like about the Draw-Tite is that the hitch pin hole is just slightly offset. So once we have a hitch pin or a locking device in there, we're not going to have to worry about our safety chains interfering with getting on or off, whereas with the Curt, it's going to be pretty much in the middle of our safety chain loops.

So if we do have a locking device that sticks out rather far, they might come into interference and make a little bit of a clearance issue.Both of our hitches are going to use a standard 5/8ths pin and clip to secure your accessories to the hitch. Now, neither of them include a pin and clip, but you can pick some up on our website using part number PC3. Now, with the Draw-Tite, you might notice that there's a secondary hole towards the back of the receiver tube here. Now, that's going to be for the J-pin stabilization device. And that is going to be great for any accessories that don't have a built-in anti-rattle.The J-pin is sold separately, and here it is right here.

And it's going to work just like a standard pin and clip. It's going to go back through the back hitch pin hole, but then, that secondary hole is going to have that different section right there. And it's going to push against your accessory, causing it to sandwich against the side of the hitch and keep it from rattling around when you're driving. Now, the other nice thing about it is, it is a locking device. So it's going to keep all of your accessories nice and secure on your hitch.Now, the way our hitch is going to mount is going to be slightly different on each one.

On our Curt here, we're going to have three mounting locations on each side, whereas with the Draw-Tite, we're only going to have two. Now, they're all going to use factory holes, and they're not going to require any drilling or any welding. But we are going to have to fish wire some hardware into the frame rail.Our Curt hitch is going to feature a 350 pound tongue weight, along with a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. Now, the Draw-Tite is going to bump it up quite dramatically in weight. It's going to have a 675 pound tongue weight, along with a 4,500 gross trailer weight rating. Now, with all that in mind, I do want to mention you always want to double check your Charger's owner's manual to make sure you don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.Another thing to keep in mind with the Curt is that they do recommend that any time you're towing a non-trailer load, anything that's not supported by tires like a bike rack or a cargo carrier, that you do use a stabilization strap. And we do have those available on our website using part number 18050. Now, with the Draw-Tite, you are not going to be limited to that, and you're not going to have to use a stabilization strap. You just want to make sure you stay within those manufacturer's weight limits.Now, since they're both class three, they're both going to give us that 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube openings, and they're both going to have a reinforced collar, not only giving it added strength, but they both just kind of have a clean, finished look to them. The nice thing about our hitches being class three is that they're going to have a wide variety of accessories they're going to be able to accept, whether it's a bike rack, a cargo carrier, or even a ball mount to tow a small trailer.Now that we've talked about the mounting points on our hitches, let's go ahead and talk a little bit more about the installation itself with our charger. So here, we have our Draw-Tite installed. Now, I do want to let you know that with both of our hitches, it is going to be kind of an in-depth installation. We're going to have a couple different options of how we're going to get them in, but as you can see, our hitch is going to actually be above our exhaust. So we're going to have to lower our exhaust down, but as you can see, we're going to have these exhaust heads built into the back of our muffler here, and it's to prevent us from pulling the exhaust down far enough to get our hitch in place.Now, some models, if we come right to the back of the trunk pan here, will have a joint to where you can unbolt it from the exhaust right here. Or on some of the models, it'll be right behind the muffler. So that'll give us enough room so that we can slide the muffler out and then lower the exhaust down. However, as you can see, ours is welded on. So we do have the option of loosening all the hangers, following it back, unbolting our supports here, and then coming all the way up by the transmission here and unbolting these clamps. And then, what you would do is you would slide the exhaust back far enough to disconnect it from the other pipes and slide it forward so that you could pull it out of those tips at the back of the bumper.Now, that's a lot of things to disconnect and a lot of things to pull down, not to mention having to have that strap to support the exhaust so it doesn't cause any damage. So what I would suggest instead is if you actually just go ahead and remove the rear dumper, because the main issue is still going to be those tips at the back not letting the exhaust come down. Now, you are still going to have to loosen the hangers up so the exhaust can come down, but if you remove the bumper all the way, you won't have to worry about these tips interfering.So to sum everything up, if appearance is your main concern, I would definitely go with the Curt, because it is going to sit up just slightly higher. We're not going to see that cross-tube, and it's really not going to distract from the looks of our Charger. Now, if ease of installation is a big concern of yours, I don't think either one of our hitches is really going to be easier to install than the other. They both require a decent amount of work and are somewhat of an in-depth install, but the end result is a nice looking hitch on your car.If weight is a big concern of yours, I would definitely go with the Draw-Tite because of the increased tongue weight, along with the increased gross trailer weight rating. You are going to have a lot more options of accessories or the trailer you're going to be able to pull. And that'll finish up the look at the best hitch options for your Dodge Charger.


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