Can Alpha Repair Tape Replace Fiberglass Mesh Tape on an RV Roof?

Updated 07/29/2026 | Published 07/17/2026

Question:

I purchased one of your roof kits. When I pulled up the old roofing, I found a fair amount of damage to the osb and wound up replacing it as well as some of the 1x2 rim that is around of the trusses. In the process of of doing that I had to remove many staples that were holding the aluminum down and then more that were holding the old membrane down. As careful as I was removing the staples, it still left some jagged aluminum around the perimeter of the roof. My question is. Can something like your alpha repair tape be used in leiu of the fiberglass mesh tape to soften the edge so that when I pull the pvc down over the edge I dont risk snagging it, or does that cause any kind of adhesive problem or something else.

asked by: Jim J

Expert Reply:

Hey Jim, thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you're doing a really thorough job, and that's a pretty common situation when the old staples have been in the aluminum for years. That said, I do not recommend using Alpha repair tape in place of the fiberglass mesh tape along the roof edge. The repair tape is designed for sealing and repairs, not as an edge cushion, and the extra thickness can affect how the PVC membrane lays and bonds around the perimeter.

I recommend sticking with the fiberglass mesh tape and making sure the aluminum edge is as smooth as possible before pulling the new membrane over it. If there are any burrs left from the staples, take a file or some sandpaper and knock them down first. That gives the membrane a smooth surface to slide over without snagging and lets the adhesive and edge termination perform exactly as intended.

What rig are you re-roofing?

expert reply by: Jesse M

Jim J.

7/21/2026

My trailer is a 2006 Sports master, made by Extreme, who aren't in business anymore. I will take your advice and maybe try a Dremel or something to knock the burs down before I pull the PVC down. Also, I noticed in your install video, that he was suggesting taking 3/4" butyl tape along the top edge of the trailer before pulling down the PVC and then putting another strip of butyl tape on the back of the gutter and then placing it just below that first strip of butyl tape over the PVC. I don't appear to have that luxury. They just pulled the EPDM over the 3/8" OSB down over the aluminum, stapled it and then installed the gutter strip, with butyl tape, just under the 3/8" OSB. Would you suggest just duplicating what they did or try and squeeze a thin 3/8" strip of butyl tape over the 3/8" OSB before pulling down the PVC?

Jesse M.

7/22/2026

@JimJ I think you've got a good plan. Since your trailer doesn't have the recessed 3/8-inch OSB, I would install it the same way the factory did. Pull the PVC membrane over the roof edge, then install the gutter rail with fresh butyl tape behind it. That gives you a clean, flat transition for the membrane without creating an extra ridge at the roof edge. Getting those aluminum burrs knocked down is the biggest thing.

Jim J.

7/22/2026

@JesseM Thanks Jesse, One more question. What's your thought behind maybe skimming caulk over any real bad areas in the aluminum where a staple mess was that are difficult to smooth out. In your install video, he uses caulk to fill in voids in the wood before installing the PVC. Wouldn't that be somewhat the same application, just over aluminum instead of wood?

Jesse M.

7/22/2026

@JimJ I see where you're coming from, but I wouldn't skim caulk over the aluminum. Filling voids in the wood gives the membrane a solid, even surface to bond to, but on aluminum the goal is to eliminate anything that sticks up, not fill what's recessed. I'd spend the time knocking down any sharp burrs or raised staple marks with a file, sandpaper, or a Dremel. As long as the edge is smooth and there isn't anything that can snag the PVC, the membrane will lay down the way it's supposed to.