What Axle Can I Use to Replace Dexter Axle DEX 5886681?
Updated 06/11/2026 | Published 06/09/2026
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Question:
I’m looking for a replacement axle with the part number DEX 5886681. Is this something you might sell?
asked by: Glenn M
Expert Reply:
Hi Glenn,
I was able to pull a few specs from your Dexter axle number, it looks like it is a 3.5K EZ-lube axle with 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern and a 2 3/8" diameter axle tube. I wasn't able to determine the hub face or spring center measurement though, that is something you would need to measure to make sure you're getting an axle that works. From what measurements I could find, the closest axle we have is the Dexter Trailer Axle Beam w/EZ-Lube Spindles part # T3584F-EZ-8974. It has a 2 3/8" diameter, 3.5K weight capacity, 89" hub face, and 74" spring center. The spring seats on this axle are welded on underslung, while your axle number says yours should have overslung. If that's the case, you can easily cut off the spring seats and weld them on top or simply weld on new ones and not remove the underslung seats.
I've also linked a help article on how to measure your axle so you can double check your hub face and spring seat measurements to make sure they line up. If the axle's hub face measurement is too long compared to your original, then the wheels would stick out too far from the sides of the trailer, which can cause uneven tire wear and handling issues.
Do you need replacement hubs with this axle as well?
Product Page this Question was Asked From
Dexter Trailer Axle Beam with EZ-Lube Spindles - 89" Long - 3,500 lbs
- Trailer Axles
- Leaf Spring Suspension
- Standard Grade
- No Hubs
- 3500 lbs
- Spindles Only
- 74 Inch Spring Center
- 89 Inch Hub Face
- No Drop or Lift
- Dexter
more information >
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on Trailer Axles
Robert P.
6/11/2026
The above axle was the closest axle to replace a bent axle under a car trailer that was built in the seventies. It originally was built using mobile home axles and was upgraded to Dexter axles in the 90's. I measured everything that etrailer asked me to measure. The spring perch spacing was too narrow to match my springs but I ordered it anyway. I used a reciprocating saw and a die grinder with a cut off wheel to gently cut the welds to remove the perches from the tube. My trailer uses underslung style perches. The trailer frame was sitting on four level jack stands with the suspension hanging. I slid the new bare axle over the springs where the old axle had been removed. Then I placed the perches between the axle tube and springs while aligning the perch on the spring center bolt. I closely measured the axle flange (where the brakes bolt on) to the frame of the trailer to be sure the axle was centered left to right. I also measured to be sure the axle was parallel with the other axle. It should automatically be correct unless you have damaged or worn out springs, bushings, hangers or equalizers. Then I carefully rotated the axle tube in the perches until the arch of the axle was at the top. You can compare the placement of the perches to where you just cut the welds. With the weight of the axle resting on the spring, I installed the u-bolts and bottom plate and tightened the nuts to hold everything in place. I tack welded each perch in four places where they touch the axle tube. Remove the axle and tacked on perches. Flip the axle over and weld the perches to the tube and reinstall the axle. My trailer now pulls like a dream at 70mph and stopped eating up tires! Good Luck.