Peterson LED Combination Tail Light - Submersible - 8 Function - 7 Diodes - Square - Driver Side

Video Transcript for Ultimate Overview of the Peterson LED Combination Tail Light

Hey guys, it's Randy here at etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at a set of lights from Peterson. Now these are your standard square style light, the ones that are going to mount on the two inch centered studs. And these are designed for use really on any type of trailer but especially trailers over 80 inches. They're going to meet the standards for that and comply to that regulation. The thing I like about these lights is they're very unique looking.

The compact design here I think is really nice look, and we've also got limbs all the way down the side here at the part that sticks out there, which is part of that requirement. And then the full face here is really nice and flush. I think it's a very unique looking light. I think it has a very nice brightness and a very nice intensity to it.Those LEDs typically do always burn a lot brighter and a lot more clear in my mind than what an incandescent does, but these are also going to last much longer, looking at 50 times the life out of them. They also use a lot less energy.

We don't have that filament that we have to heat up. And that generally breaks when we hit rougher roads. Now, these are also a fully submersible light.The way they've designed the LEDs on the back of the lens, the side, and even on our license plate light down there, you can see real nice and bright is that they're fully sealed. So our wires do run in but they're going to go into an epoxy in there. Everything, as far as the LEDs go, the wiring and those wires, once they pass through, that's all sealed.

So this light can go underwater, come back out with zero issues. And in most cases I do recommend unplugging your lights when you do that but in this situation, I wouldn't even be worried about doing it without that.And something else I like is that we have the reflectorized lens here on the side and on the rear. So there's no need for additional reflectors or anything like that. Now the only real difference between this one, which is the one for the driver's side and it has our license plate light here on the bottom is that this doesn't exist on the passenger side. So be sure when you get your replacements, you get one of each, you have one for the right side.Now the housing itself back here really nice and strong.

Doesn't have a lot of flex or give to it, especially compared to some of the other ones that I've handled. And then the lens, I like the lens really nice and solid it's going to be an acrylic lens. So unless we run into it with something pretty heavy duty, I really don't think we're going to have to worry about cracking and discoloration and things like that, that we used to see really shouldn't be an issue either.So to begin our installation, of course, we're going to be using our studs that are on the two inch centers. And then what I like to do is just run my wire down. There's a couple of keepers right here and then there's a little gap for those to come out. So as we put it up against our mounting surface, they won't be pinch. Bring that down and on. I'm going to start with the outside stud first. I want to get my nut put on there to hold my light in place. On the other side, we're going to put our ground wire on the stud. You can see we've cleaned off an area there on the trailer for this to get a really good connection. Then we'll be using a seven sixteenths to tighten both of these down. Now this isn't something we need to over-tighten. We just want it to be snug.Now for the other two wires, we're going to have a red one and a black one. The red one needs to go to our stop and turn signal. That's generally on the left side going to be the yellow wire on the right side, generally a green wire. Then our black wire needs to go to our running light signal. Generally, that's going to be a brown wire. We're using heat shrink butt connectors here to make our connections, just twist your wire up really well. Slide that on and we'll crimp it down.Now, the reason I use heat shrinks on trailers, because they're always out in the elements and with just a standard butt connector, a lot of times moisture can get in there cause corrosion and it just seems to sometimes be a point of failure. So by doing this, once we get them shrink down, we don't have to worry about that. You always want to pull them though and make sure you've got a good connection made. On our yellow wire here we'll add it in and again on the passenger side, you're just going to be using the green wire instead. And then we're going to use a heat gun to shrink these down. You could also use a mini torch or you can use a lighter, just be careful not to overheat them. What we want to do is just warm them up. They'll start to turn clear and then you'll see them start to shrink and we want to do this so that our wire, it looks like it gets larger, almost like the butt connector magnifies it. And then you'll have a little clear gel that comes out of here.Now their excess wire, I always like to keep it around. Just gives us something to use down the road if we ever needed to change anything. But I do like getting it bundled up and out of the way, just like that. So it's nice and neat. Now the next thing we'll do is just go over to that passenger side. We're going to repeat the same process, but again, green to green, rather than yellow to yellow.Now, once you have your lights installed, of course you want to test them. So we're going to hook it up to our battery tester here, our trailer tester here. You can just as easily use your tow vehicle. We'll start by turning on the running lights. We see those are working really well, switched to the left turn signal, check our brakes and our right turn signal. It's like everything's working as it should. So we've got this installation taken care of. We're ready to hook up to our vehicle and enjoy our trailer..