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Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Item # HM11143764
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Hopkins Trailer Hitch Wiring - HM11143764
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Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system. 1-800-940-8924 to order Hopkins custom fit vehicle wiring part number HM11143764 or order online at Free expert support on all Hopkins products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring reviews from real customers.
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Hopkins Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - HM11143764

  • Custom Fit
  • Trailer Hitch Wiring
  • 4 Flat
  • Powered Converter
  • Hopkins

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system.


  • Provides a 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer's signal lights
    • Compatible with 5-pole, 6-pole and 7-pole adapters (sold separately)
  • Connects quickly and easily
    • Locate connection points behind tail lights
    • Plug in connector
    • Run hot lead to car battery
  • Includes a tail light converter to ensure that your vehicle's wiring matches that of your trailer
    • Powered module connects directly to battery to avoid overloading vehicle's electrical system
  • Protective connection terminals resist corrosion
  • Comes with dust cap for 4-way flat connector, cable ties, and terminal grease packet for electrical connections


  • Maximum amperage:
    • Stop/turn lights: 3 amps per circuit
    • Tail lights: 6 amps per circuit
  • 90-Day limited warranty


This custom-fit T-connector plugs into your vehicle's wiring harness, which is located behind the driver's-side and passenger's-side tail lights. You will have to remove the tail light assemblies to access this harness. Once you've plugged in the connector, run the red hot lead up to your car battery. Connect the included fuse holder, and then connect the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery.

T-One Connection Location Points Behind Tail Lights

Once installation is complete, the 4-way connector will be stowed in your rear cargo area.

It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on all electrical connections - the plugs on your automobile and the 4-pole connector itself - to help prevent corrosion.

Powered Tail Light Converter

A tail light converter is built into this T-connector. This converter is a battery-powered unit that bypasses the electrical routes that are used by a basic wiring harness. As a result, there is virtually no draw on your tail light circuits.

Because most trailers run on a two-wire system - wherein the brake and turn signals are carried on one wire - the separate brake and turn signals from your vehicle's three-wire system need to be combined so they are compatible with the wiring system of the trailer. This converter combines the brake and turn signal functions of your automobile so that they run on one wire to properly activate your trailer's tail lights. Note: This will not affect how the tail lights on your vehicle operate.

11143764 Plug-in Simple Hopkins T-Connector with 4-Pole Trailer Connector

Installation Details HM11143764 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

California residents: click here

Video of Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2012 Volkswagen Routan

Hi there, Volkswagen owners. Today on your 2012 at Volkswagen Routan, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Hopkins' Four-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness and this is what our harness looks like installed. You're not gonna see it at all here at the back because it is designed to be hidden inside the vehicle. This will protect it from the elements. Your four-pole connector's here at the back. You gotta worry about corrosion occurring on those.

With this one stored inside of our jack and spare tire tool compartment here, we simply can just bring it out when we're ready to use it. I just curled it up into a little winding there and then used the dust boot to secure it, to keep it all together when we're not using it. But when we are ready to use it, we simply just bring it here at the back and it'll just pinch in between our weatherstripping. The weatherstripping won't cause any damage to it. It'll hold it in place for us.

But you do want to make sure you avoid the striker here at the middle, that potentially could damage it. We'll then just cinch that down there and you can see we've got plenty of length to plug in to our trailer and we get our four-pole flat connector here, which gives us all of our necessary lighting signals which includes our left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps and brake lamps. The harness that you'll get here does have a module that's integrated into the harness. The nice thing about having a module integrated into the harness is that the module actually monitors the lighting signals from both our passenger and driver's side assemblies and once it sees those signals, it'll reproduce those signals and send 'em out our four flat connector here for our trailer. Now if there's any shorts on our trailer, any faults with it, the module is able to shut down that circuit to prevent any damage from occurring.

In the event the module is unable to shut it down in time though, it has its own dedicated power circuit that powers the module and the fuse would simply open for that module. That would leave our four-pole here inoperative until we repaired the issues on our trailer and replaced the fuse. But once we have those issues on the trailer fixed and the fuse replaced for this harness here, we're back up and running without any damage occurring to our vehicle wiring. Without a module, if you just we're tapping in with a four connector here to one of your taillights and you had a short, well that's gonna pop the light or fuse for the taillight on your vehicle. So having that module in there gives you a little bit of a safety net to keep everything nice and safe.

So now that we've covered some of the features of our install, why don't you follow along with us and we'll show you how to get it installed I will say this one's a little bit more difficult to install than like Curt or to Tekonsha brand one. The Hopkins, they seem to give you just a little bit shorter wire. They're just not quite as clean and nice as far as the routing and stuff. But it is a powered module and it does give us everything we need. So we'll show you a step-by-step here how to get that installed. We'll begin our installation by removing both the driver and passenger side taillight assemblies. To remove these, we're gonna remove the two fasteners holding it in place. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket to do so. And now we're gonna pull our assembly straight rearward. I do recommend a pry tool, a plastic one to assist you in getting it popped out towards the rear. There's the little tabs that was holding it in place there. Now that we've got this pulled out, we can disconnect our electrical connector, pull back on the lock tab there and then we can press in on the release tab after pushing back on the lock tab and disconnect our assembly. We'll get the other side removed the same way. So we got our assemblies out of the way. Here, we can take our harness and plug it in. We're gonna start on the driver's side. You can see here that we don't get much wire here. So we're gonna start right up here on top. Plug in your factory connector into the new harness and we can click that down. We'll be routing the green wire here over towards the passenger side. So we can go ahead and just separate that out of there now and we're just gonna drop this right down and it's a pretty large opening, you should be able to just push it down there with your hand. There we go, until it comes up the other side. Pull all this green slack and we're just gonna set that over to that side for now. We are gonna be routing it over but there are still quite a few connections over here on the driver's side. So our module here has, we can ignore the red wire there. I'm just gonna twist that around here because they are not important to us, that one. But the white and red wire here is our power and ground circuits. So we're gonna go ahead and make that connection and our four-pole flat here, this module is not waterproof, so that's why it has such a short cable so we can install it up high here so it won't get wet and additionally your end here, this is also not protected against moisture. So this is designed to stay in the vehicle when it's not in use, so that way it protects it from corrosion and things like that. So we're actually gonna pull this grommet out. We're gonna be feeding it inside. Before I push the grommet out, I like to come here to the inside and take this panel off. Just kinda twist those 'til they release and we just need to be able to access where the wiring is there. It's pretty much right back here behind this. We pull down on our carpet. Our grommet. We're just gonna use our screwdriver here to pull the grommet out just like that. After you've got your grommet pulled out, we just need to make a slit in it to be able to feed some wires inside. So we're just gonna flip this up like this. We're gonna grab a razor knife or we're just using a pair of hose cutters here and we're gonna make a slit that will allow us to pass our wires in. So we're just gonna do it in this little square opening right here. There we go, we cut a little slit. If you want to, you can cut out just a little bit more to allow the room for your wires. We'll just take out just a tiny little bit. We're gonna make a very small diamond-type shape here and that'll just ensure that we can more easily feed our wires in. There we go, it's not a very large hole. Just enough there to give the release that we need for the wires. So now we're gonna take the four-pole wire here and this is gonna get routed inside. So we're just gonna run this through the opening where we pulled our grommet out and then we're gonna reach through that panel that we have removed to continue pulling it all the way. There we go. Now that we've got that, we can pull the majority of this in. There we go and we'll leave a little bit of slack here so we can mount the module just below our taillight assembly in there. So now we'll take our grommet here and we're just gonna slide those wires that we had fed in through there and then we can put our grommet back into place. All right, and now we're gonna go ahead and secure the module. Unlike other manufacturers that give you adhesives to mount your module, we're just gonna get cable ties to secure this module and there's really nothing in this area, it's not really the most ideal solution. We're gonna be zip-tying it directly to the factory harness and we're probably gonna zip-tie our power and our ground wire like that as well just to give it a little bit more meat, hold everything together. Probably even need a little bit of this one in there as well. That should still be plenty of length to be able to plug into our taillight assembly. So now we're just gonna grab some of the cable ties that come in the kit to zip-tie this module here and it needs to be high up due to its lack of waterproof. So we can't really drop her down to try to find a more suitable grounding location because the further down we go, the higher risk we are of internal module damage from moisture. We're actually gonna have to use a couple of zip ties here. The zip ties that come in the kit are gonna be too short. We can daisy chain these together. All right, then we can just trim off the excess there. We've got our module now mounted. Next, we're gonna grab the self-tapping screw that comes in our kit and we're gonna use this to attach the white wire right here to the sheet metaling behind our assembly here. So we're just gonna leave out the white one. Just kind of poke that down in there and we're just gonna run it in place. We're gonna kinda do it at this slightly angled section here because I know it's gonna be below the taillight assembly. So that way, we'll be able to install the taillight assembly without an obstruction. But the angle kind of gives me a good location to get a tool in there and be able to drill into that properly. So here we've got the white wire with the ring terminal that's pre-installed on it. We're gonna slide the self-tapping screw that comes in our kit through the ring terminal and then we're gonna use a quarter-inch socket to run this into place. Just make sure that the wire doesn't rotate, that's it's snug enough. That looks good there. Next, we'll attach the red wire that comes in our kit to the red wire coming off of our module. The red wire in your kit comes pre-stripped, so we can simply take the end of it, poke it right into the blue butt connector there. Then grab our crimpers and secure the two together. We're now gonna take the red wire here and this is going to pass down right alongside the green wire that we dropped down there except for this wire needs to get routed up to the engine compartment. So we're gonna drop this down here until this comes out down at the bottom. Sometimes when you've got just a single wire like this, it's not gonna work out. Like our green wire, when we dropped it down, it had the weight of the connectors on it where it fell out. We get it the majority of the way down there which you're probably gonna have to reach around up here because it wants to just bundle up, you can just grab it. So now that we've gotten this fed down, just to help further secure this to keep this from rattling around and whatnot, we're gonna zip-tie it to this ground wire as well here just to kind of take up some of this excess. Okay. So at this point now, I'm gonna go ahead and route all the wires to the appropriate location and then I'll show you the path that I took to get it there. With our green wire, when it routes over to the other side, it's simply gonna plug into the factory connector on that side over there. Our red wire, I'll show you a trick to get it up into our engine compartment once we get it closer to the engine compartment there. I am gonna take this driver's side taillight assembly and I'm gonna plug it back in and put it in place just because this is gonna determine kind of how much wire we've got here. I don't want to route this wire and end up pulling my module down here, pulling out the slack and finding out I don't have enough left to plug into my taillight assembly. So if we just plug into that taillight assembly now, we'll ensure that we're gonna have enough length. So I recommend doing that before starting your routing adventure. Our green wire comes down here. We route it across, staying behind our bumper here, the fascia by routing it behind any of the attachment points here and we do that all the way across to the other side and once we get here, then we pull it up to get to our taillight assembly over there. After we've pulled up the green wire, we can then take the end here, plug it into our taillight assembly. If you'll notice the way that I zip-tied it also, I put two zip ties on it. We've got one here in the middle and that's just taking up all the excess and bundling it up and there's another one right next to the grommet here and that one, when I pulled the green wire up, I made sure to pull up all the slack and zip-tied it right away so nothing could fall back down and potentially fall into something moving like our suspension or fall down and touch our exhaust and melt or anything like that and this side's ready to insert as well. I don't like to snap it all the way back in until I've tested it. So we're just gonna leave it right like that for now. Now before we route our power wire from the backup here to the front, I like to have my fish wire fed down 'cause once I get down on my back, I don't want to have to get up and down, it's pretty rough, you know So let's take this airline tubing here and we're just gonna drop it down kinda behind our battery, kinda staying to the driver's side here following our lines as they go back and that way, we can just tape our wire to it and use this to pull it back up. Now at home, you probably don't have any airline tubing laying around but something that works really well is a metal coat hanger, you probably got one of those. You can undo that thing and you can use that to push it down in there to attach your wire to to pull it back up. So we're just gonna feed this down. We're just kind of following the factory wiring and lines too 'cause those are already routed in a location that we know is gonna be avoiding anything that's gonna damage our new wiring that we're laying down. So now we're underneath again. We took our red wire here and the first thing we did was we wrapped it around the hitch because if you just try to go straight forward, it's gonna bring it all the way to the edge of this panel here and you're gonna be real close to that tire. So we kind of wrapped it around the hitch to give us a straighter line that's gonna be away from that moving component there. As we follow the frame rail here kind of forward, this is your ABS wiring right here. We zip-tie it to the ABS wiring and we put multiple zip ties there 'cause this is kind of a sketchy spot with the coil spring being right there. So if we just follow that ABS wiring around, we can avoid that coil spring without any issues and then just continue moving forward. From there, we just kind of stay alongside the fuel tank, go above the filler neck there and then we zip-tie it to our parking brake cable and we pretty much just follow this parking brake cable all the way forward, zip-tying it along the way. Once we get up a little bit more towards the front here, the cable wants to dip down. We want to try to keep that off the pavement, so we just kind of pulled it taut and zip-tied it a little bit higher up there to let that be the first thing that hits and then this is our fish wire that we had fed down. I just took some electrical tape and I taped our red wire to it here. So now when we head back up to the engine compartment, all we gotta do is pull our fish wire and that'll pull it up right up into the compartment there and we are going through this little body pushing here. We could go straight forward but once again, if you do it that way, we've got some moving components here. By routing it around this body mount, it kind of keeps us away from those components and lets us go right up along where our brake lines kind of go up there. This is a nice kind of a rounded edge too. So that shouldn't really cause any like major abrasions on our wire as we wrap that up. We're now back up top, we're gonna grab our fish wire. We're gonna pull it up and after we've got it pulled up to where the wire seems taught, you'll want to take a quick moment to look down below and make sure that the wire didn't kind of jumble up, make a little knotty mess and that you do actually have it all the way pulled up. So we've gone ahead and double-checked to make sure it's pulled up and nothing got jumbled up down below. Everything looks good. So we're gonna zip-tie it here to the factory harness to ensure that it can't fall back down. So now we'll go to our battery positive cable. We're gonna use our 10 millimeter socket to remove the nut. After you've got the nut removed, we can take the harness that comes in our kit here, slide the ring terminal down over the stud and then reinstall the nut. This really isn't the ideal way to attach it but this is what we've got to work with here. It'd be cool if Hopkins would have gave us a nut to attach to this stud. It would've worked much better in this location here. And then we can go ahead and just run this down. Now that we've got that connected there, we're just gonna take our fuse harness here, grab our red wire, get a good amount of an idea of how much excess we want to leave. I always like to leave a little excess just because it makes working on it in the future, adding other accessories and stuff, replacing your battery or other things like that a little bit easier if you've got some excess wire. We don't want to leave too much though 'cause we don't want wire to fall down and get caught on things. So this seems like a pretty good compromise between having enough excess for the future and not too much to be too messy. We'll then strip back the red wire here and poke it into the butt connector on our fuse harness. That does come pre-installed on there for ya. And then we'll just crimp this down. Now that we've got that crimped down, We'll just grab our heat gun and shrink down our butt connector. And if you need a heat gun, we've got plenty available here at etrailer. We're using the one from Performance Tools today. This one here is a wireless option. So it's battery-operated. We've already used this once today on another vehicle. We only had a few butt connectors that we needed to crimp down on that other vehicle. I will say compared to the wired options we've got, this one is definitely slower. So it will take a little bit more time to shrink down these butt connectors. It doesn't have near the heat or the projection from the internal fan to kind of project that heat out as the wired ones do. But if you're just doing like a wiring installation like we're doing here or an occasional butt connector repair on like a trailer, maybe your taillight or something like that had an issue and you had to go out there and fix it, this would be a real good one to use with these heat shrink butt connectors for those real quick repairs just so you don't have to get out your extension cord and stuff like that. Oftentimes your trailer might be too long to fit in your garage or whatnot or you might not have any outlets nearby. So you can see it does work, it is slower but it is battery-operated. So you just gotta see how that compromises. You get about 15 minutes of runtime on this thing. So it's not gonna be great for us to use every day down here in the shop but it was neat kind of checking it out. It's something that I would definitely probably keep at home on hand. So there it is, it is a little slow. We've got this crimped down at this point. All that we need to do now is double-check, make sure our fuse is inserted, it is. So then we are now ready to plug in a tester and verify that everything's working properly. So here we've got our tester plugged in. You could use your trailer but I highly recommend a tester like this because if you have any faults on your trailer like a short, you might think that there's something wrong with your vehicle here and that you didn't install your harness right or that you got a faulty harness when the issue is actually with your trailer. A tester like this will verify that our vehicle side's working properly so when you do go plug into your trailer, if things aren't working, you know hey, I've already verified my vehicle side is all good, tip top. We have done that ourselves and verified it. We know the issue is then on our trailer side and we can start to diagnose and figure it out from there. So with this tester, you want to verify you have your left turn signal. Right turn signal. Tail lamps and brake lamps. With all of our signals working properly, we can go ahead and button up our installation. If we've got any wiring that we still need to zip-tie up to clean it up, we can do that with what's in our kit here and we can get our taillight assemblies all re-installed in reverse order of how we removed 'em. And that completes our installation of Hopkins' Four-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on our 2012 Volkswagen Routan..

Customer Reviews

Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector - HM11143764

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (4 Customer Reviews)

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system.

2012 Volkswagen Routan

Works perfectly on our 2012 VW Routan, this is my second one that I have purchased in three years.
The module when bad, this time I will keep the fuse off until I need to use the harness.
It was simple changing out the wires, the wire harness is a perfect match.

2012 Volkswagen Routan

Haven't used it yet, but looks good so far.


Shipped same day, excellent ordering process with great visibility to the progress.


Great product. Fit was perfect.


Ask the Experts about this Hopkins Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

  • Troubleshooting Constant Power on Right Brake Light Vehicle Side
    If the green output wire of the wiring harness # HM11143764 is having constant power, that is an issue. I recommend checking the green input wire prior to the module because the green wire should only have power when the brakes are applied or when the right turn signal is on. If there is constant power before the module, then I recommend checking the connection for bent pins or corrosion. If the input wire is working correctly and the output wire is not, then you know the module is bad...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Alexander C
Written by:
Alexander C
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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