To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
If you want a clean, factory look when you’re not towing, this setup keeps things looking sharp. The hidden bracket design sits far back on the frame so the remaining pieces are barely visible once the arms come off. The removable drawbars slide in, twist to lock, and pull straight out when you’re done. With the brackets tucked within the grille area, they stay protected from scrapes and scuffs while keeping the front end uncluttered.
The drawbars on this kit are designed for quick connects and disconnects. Each arm clicks to lock in place and uses built-in pull rings that let you twist and remove them without tools. It’s a simple, reliable motion that makes getting ready to tow or unhook a quick process whether you’re at home or on the road.
This base plate kit is made from computer-cut, all-steel components for strength and durability. The solid design spreads towing forces evenly across the frame for a stable connection you can trust. The black powder coat finish provides corrosion resistance so it holds up through weather and road grime over time.
Installation is straightforward—no welding required. The custom base plates bolt directly to your vehicle’s frame using the included mounting hardware for a secure fit. Integrated points are ready for adding an electrical connector plug or bracket (sold separately), so your wiring stays organized and accessible once everything is in place.
This kit pairs with Roadmaster tow bars when used with the quick-disconnect crossbar (910021-00, sold separately). It gives you flexibility to use your existing Roadmaster gear and makes it easy to integrate into a complete flat towing system without extra guesswork.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2018 Ford Focus we're gonna be taking a look at, I'm gonna show you how to install the Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit with removable arms, part number RM-524443-4.This is what our base plate looks like when it's installed. It's gonna be one of five main components in a flat tow setup. The other four are gonna be your safety cables, your tow bar, your wiring, and your braking system.Your base plate's gonna give you a solid connection point between your RV and your Ford to safely flat tow your vehicle.Our base plate's gonna be compatible with quick disconnects and all Roadmaster tow bars.It is gonna come with removable arms. Simply pull the spring loaded pin, twist, and remove. When not in use, maintains a nice clean look on the front of the vehicle. When you're ready to use it, the pin is gonna go on the notched side, so you know which side you have the correct way.
You're gonna push it against the base plate, twist it so it locks into place.Base plate does come with a quick disconnect bar. Simply drops into place. And it's gonna come with two snap rings to hold it in place. Simply slide the arm to the inside of the bracket, line up the holes, slide your pin through, snap the ring over.These are gonna be our safety cable hook-ups. Make for easy connection.It's also gonna have two rods to attach our six-volt plug for our diode wiring.As far as the instillation goes, it is time consuming.
Front fascia does have to come off. And there's quite a few parts that have to be installed. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. You will have to drill a few holes, but there is no welding required. It will come with all the necessarily parts.First thing we need to do to start our installation is we're gonna be removing our fascia.
To start that, we're gonna remove a couple of push-pin fasteners and some T-30 torques head screws up here on the top side under the hood. For a push-in, you can use a flat head screwdriver. I'm gonna use a trim panel tool. We'll pull out the center. If it separates, no big deal.
Just make sure you pull out the base with it. You can always put the two back together. We're gonna have a second one on this side.Take a T-30 torques bit, we're gonna have one bolt here. We're actually gonna have one on driver's side and passenger's side. Going to remove those. We're gonna have a black one here in the center.We're gonna have a torques head bolt on each side, right next to our stop here.Next thing we're gonna do, is we need to remove the headlights. We're gonna have two T-30 torques bits, or torques head screws. One on the lower side of the light, and one on the upper side of the light. Go ahead and remove those. We'll disconnect the lights, and we'll set our lights aside.You're gonna have a little tab here. What you're gonna do is you're gonna pull up on it, like this, and slide it off. And we'll set the light aside.Now we're gonna repeat this same process on the other light.Next we're gonna take T-27 torques bit, we're gonna have a torques head bolt here, torques head bolt here, and we'll take our trim panel tool or screwdriver, and we're gonna have a plastic fastener we need to remove here. We're gonna do that on both sides of the vehicle.Underneath the vehicle, or underneath our front fascia, we're gonna have some plastic push-pin fasteners. We're gonna have three on our driver's side and three on our passenger's side. We'll just remove those the same way we did the ones from the top.Next we wanna pry our hook latch cable out of the holder. Like that. And we're gonna remove the cable.Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna pull our fascia off. We're gonna start from the outside and work our way in. There's gonna be a little tab here down underneath where your headlight was. Make sure you pull up on that as you start pulling it off. And we'll set our fascia aside somewhere safe.We'll take our T-30 torques bit. We're gonna have two screws holding this underliner here to our splash guard. Go ahead and remove those, and you're gonna have two on the passenger side of the vehicle also.Next, we have two options here. This lower inaudible 00:05:27 air dam here, you can either cut out the big notch here, or big opening here, and then cut these out. Or there's two T-30 torques bit, or screws. There's one here, and there's one here. We can just remove the whole thing, which is what I'm gonna do.If you decide to cut it, just follow directions on what lines to cut it on.All you're gonna do is you're gonna slide this little tab to the center, and you're just gonna push down on the backside to release it.And we'll take our T-30 torques bit. We're gonna have torques head bolt on this bottom liner, right here towards the lower side of the engine compartment. We'll have one on each side. Then we'll remove our liner, and set it aside.Next, on our passenger side, we're gonna remove our washer bottle. 10 millimeter socket, we're gonna have a bolt here, we're gonna have a bolt on the backside. You may need to use a swivel to get this one, because our fender liner does not go in far enough. We're gonna go ahead and unplug our wiring, because we are gonna be removing this all the way. One on here. That one right back here.Once you take the bolts out of your washer bottle, then the directions are gonna tell you, "Take it off, dump it out, and refill it later," to move it away from the frame. What I did is the filler neck will actually come off right here. I dropped the bottle down, left it connected, and just raised it up, you can see how I have it here, and just ran a zip tie to just hold it in place.Next, we're gonna take a 10 millimeter socket on our passenger side, we're gonna remove the horn. Some vehicle models may have a horn on the driver's side, it also needs to be removed.Take the bolt out. We'll slide the horn off.On the passenger side only, this tab here that we had our washer bottle mounted to, we need to take that and we need to fold it down flat. I'm just gonna use some channel locks.They actually tell you to cut out a circle here with a hole saw bit. These frames are pretty strong, so use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade, is what I'm gonna use. And I'm actually just gonna cut a square. What we're trying to do is open a hole to the center of our frame rail, because we're gonna have to put in some handle nuts to get to our bolts. So again, you see how I have marked out here. We're gonna go ahead and cut that out.Once you have them cut out, we're gonna take some Rustoleum paint, cover up that bare metal to resist any rust or corrosion later on down the road.On our driver's side, we need to disconnect the fastener holding on a wire loom to the side of our frame rail. We'll just use our trim panel tool, and we'll pop it out.Next we're gonna take our brace here, on the driver's side. How you know you have the right one, these three holes are gonna be on the outside of the frame rail, and this angle is gonna face towards the back. So it's actually gonna . and it should line up with the three holes.We're gonna take our 3/8 by 1 1/4 bolts, and we're gonna temporarily slide them in the outermost holes, then we're gonna take a third one and we'll put Red Loctite, we wanna make sure we're using Red Loctite on all of our hardware. We're gonna put on a lock washer, we're gonna slide this into the center hole. And we're gonna take the nut plate, we're gonna go through the hole in the frame that we cut. We're gonna line it up with that center bolt. And we'll thread on that backing plate. Then we'll go ahead and remove these two that we had temporarily, make sure you have a lock washer on. Go ahead and put your Loctite on. And you're just gonna repeat the same thing with the next two bolts.Next we're gonna take this plate, this nut plate, you can see how it's offset, and we're gonna slide it into the hole. And there's a hole right down inside in the bottom of our brace. And it's right over on this side. We're gonna line up the hole. We're gonna take a half inch bolt and bolt up through that brace. Take your half inch bolt, lock washer, make sure you put Loctite on it. We're gonna go up through the hole.Next on each side, what we're gonna do is we're gonna trim, you can see where I have the line. We're gonna trim the bottom part of this shock absorber off. We'll just use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade.Take an 8 millimeter socket. We're gonna remove our computer box. We're gonna have three bolts: one here, you're gonna have one on the backside, straight back here, and the other one's gonna be up here on top. There is a T-30 torques bit holding the liner in right here. You may have to remove that to get to the bolt, which is back up in here.And we're just gonna take it, and we're gonna set it down just like this. Make sure it's out of the way so it doesn't get damaged.Next we'll remove our wiring harness from the top of our frame rail. Right here. We'll take this bracket here. You'll know you have the right one, this side here is gonna be on the outside of the frame rail. And we're gonna set it in place just like this.The hole that we just pulled our wiring out, we're gonna take a half inch drill bit and we're gonna enlarge that.We'll take a 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolt, black washer, we're gonna go down through the hole like that. Then we'll put our half inch backing plate on.Now we'll take our half inch drill bit and drill out this back hole here. I'm gonna use a half inch to start it, just to give me the indention, then I'm gonna use a smaller drill bit to drill a pilot hole. It'll make this big one go in a lot quicker.Once you have your hole drilled, you're gonna take your half inch by two inch bolt. You're gonna have a pipe space, you're actually gonna have three pipe spacers. You're gonna have two of them that are the same size, one that's a little bit smaller. We're gonna use one of the two larger ones. Pipe spacer's gonna go in between this bracket and the hole. Bolt's gonna go down through like that.Then we'll take our handle nut through the hole that we cut in the front. And line it up with the bolt. And we'll thread the nut plate or the bolt into the nut plate.Once you're done with one side, you're gonna repeat the process on the other side, with the exception of removing the computer box. That is only gonna be on the driver's side.Next we'll take a half inch bolt, lock washer, we're gonna raise our main receiver brace up behind our side brackets. We're gonna run our bolt through our top hole. And we'll put a nut on the back.On our passenger side, our washer bottle bolted here, this hole in front of it, we're gonna enlarge it to a half inch. Then we'll take the lower brace, gonna make sure that this is facing in, this part is going up towards the bottom of the frame rail. How you'll know you'll have the right, correct side. We'll take our half inch by two inch bolt, black washer, we're gonna go through our side brace, through our lower bracket, and through our main receiver brace. Gonna put a nut on the back.This clip right here in the back, we're gonna remove that.Next, we're gonna line our hole up. Hold this firmly against the pinch weld. And we're gonna drill a half inch hole in our front hole here. We'll use that as our guide, and we're gonna do the same thing here. Start out with a half inch, that'll mark my spot, and then I'll go to a smaller drill bit to use it as a pilot hole.Next we're gonna take this backing plate. You see how the holes are offset They're gonna match the holes on this lower bracket. It's gonna go up behind that pinch weld. We're gonna have a long bolt like this. We're gonna put a flat washer on it. Come in from the inside of our pinch weld, then we're gonna go through this very most rear hole. Put a flat washer on front, follow that with a nut.The forward hole. Half inch by 1 1/2 inch. We're gonna go through from the outside in. Make sure you have your lock washer on it. Make sure you also go through that plate, and then we're gonna put a nut on it.The only difference between our driver's side and our passenger's side is that our passenger's side, this rear most hole, we're gonna put the smaller pipe spacer followed with a flat washer, and then a nut.Next we're gonna go around and tighten all of our hardware.Once you have all your hardware tightened, you're gonna go back through and torque everything to the specifications in the instructions.Then your handles here, you're gonna need to cut them off, bend them out of the way. I'm gonna take my Dremel tool and I'm actually gonna cut them off flush with the frame.Next, our 8 millimeter bolt, we're gonna reinstall our computer box. We're gonna take this nut off, slide our computer box back up, and we're actually gonna go through . run our bolt through it. Once you get your back nut on, just replace the other two 10 millimeter bolts.And then on our passenger side we're gonna mount our horn. It's gonna mount right here in this hole. Just like that. What we might have to do, is this tab actually folds up. This is too thick, this bottom bracket is too thick, so you might have to fold that down to get the holes to line up. You're gonna have a bolt, nut and the washer in your kit. And then washer on, and then inaudible 00:18:28. Take an 11 millimeter socket and wrench, and tighten into place.Next we're gonna remount our washer bottle. First, this nut here on the back side, we're gonna take it off. We're gonna take out this fender washer and leave the pipe spacer installed. Turn this back down here. We'll reinstall our fender washer, and then reinstall the nut.Before reinstalling your fascia, it's a good idea if you're putting a braking system in or wiring the wiring it, it's a good idea to go ahead an do that now because it's a lot easier to run your wires up here to the front of the vehicle with the fascia off.You're gonna have some trimming that's gonna be required here on the front, on the fascia. It's a good idea to do all that at one time.Once you get that done, then you're gonna reinstall the fascia in reverse order from the way you took it off.Now you can see here, I've already cut the fascia out. How you're gonna do that is, how I did it is I just slid it into place. I put one bolt right in the top, and I took some side cutters, this plastic's pretty easy to cut. Just took some side cutters and just started cutting around it. That way I can keep everything as close as possible, and it looks as neat as possible.That'll do it for a look at installation on the Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit with removable arms, part number RM-524443-4 on our 2018 Ford Focus.
Ratings & Reviews
The installation took me about 7 hours, the facia removal was tedious , between the installation videos and instructions, I performed the task. This bar has one con, the pull rings on the removal bars are flimsy , my first pull stretched one out. I’m sure trailer has a fix for this under warranty, I hope.
The representative (Sarah) was very helpful and knowledgeable, the prices are very reasonable and all my items arrived on time. When I called with a question, she was very polite, friendly and genuinely sounded like she enjoyed her job. When I discovered one of the items I ordered wasn’t needed, getting help to return was hassle free. I would recommend etrailer to anyone that needs anything RV or trailer related. I will definitely do business with them again. I am impressed.
Etrailer was very easy to do business with and made it simple to ship my order directly to the RV shop that was going to install it. This was my first order from them, but I will definitely consider future purchases from them if I'm in need of something for my RV.
We towed our 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI 3000 miles last year, this is an ideal setup, discreet when not in use, solid, and easy to get on/off. Very please with the support I received from Roadmaster as one of the bolt was missing, was sent super quickly.
Not an easy install on a Trax but it is very well made and gives a clean look. I did customize by cutting down the 6 pin bracket supports to get it flush with front of the car.
Install pretty easy. You will have to change directions of one bolt due to obstruction ( frame). Cannot torque a few of the bolts. These are the ones with wire attached.
Rock guard needed addition trimming from factory instructions.
Awesome delivery speed, and a well made base plate for my 2007 Element. Installation was a breeze (thanks to my son’s heated shop) and I had to do no cutting to make this fit. I had a Stowmaster tow bar that came with my RV and etrailer was able to steer me to the correct missing parts to make this a really affordable installation. Now to get out of this snow!
I’ve been purchasing products from ETrailer since 2005 and all the products I’ve purchased have been a great value. The products mentioned above installed perfectly and with the direct assistance from ETrailer everything fit as suggested. I will always interact with ETrailer as needs present themselves.
Fit and finish is great, the illustration for what you trim on the bumper isn't great but otherwise pretty easy install (I ended up measuring between the mounts on the draw bar and just trimmed accordingly)
After ordering the wrong crossbar, etrailer sent the correct one for our Mini Cooper quickly. However I did have to modify most of the holes as the cross bar didn’t quite fit (but close). I had to drill the three main bolt holes to 11/16 so that the bar would go over the Mini’s 3 main bumper bolts on both sides. The two lower bolt holes (each side), needed to be drilled out 3 sizes larger to accommodate the 4 bolts that come with the kit. I had to drill out the Minis lower holes to better align with the crossbars lower holes. I would also like to note it being a pain in the knuckles to reach one of the three (each side) bolts to put the stock nuts on the bolt and then try and get them tight. (The main bolt pattern for the upper bumper is diamond shape, one up tow bolts lower. (The lower “inside” bolt on each side is the one that is hard to get to and tighten.) Sorry I didn’t get picks, I was in a rush to get the car back together. There’s an angle piece on the cross bar that blocks the hard to reach bolt, it would be helpful if that could be made more accessible to reach.
Overall the installation was great, however the process of drilling 3 - 1/2" holes in that little bumper that has a Rockwell Hardness of about 60, seems to be a bit over the top.The instructions are spot on, delivery was great, the quality of product was accurate. I am a happy boy!
Replaced same part that was damaged in a crash. I had used my original one for close to ten years without issue. Fast shipping from etrailer.
The Base plate kit is well made and came with all the necessary hardware.Installation is relatively straight forward. I did have to enlarge two of the holes that didn't quite line up. But overall I'd recommend it.
Bolted right up. Installation should be done with bumper on, as you can't fit the ends through the louvers without some convincing. Works great so far. Was able to use a Stowmaster 5000 with it.
Installation was a bit trying. Ended up looking very clean and almost invisible.
Using the tow bar worked super easy and our motorhome hardly noticed the Mini Cooper back there.
Came quickly and is very high quality. Great directions/video from road master makes the installation step by step easy to follow.
Skill level is probably at the intermediate level depending on experience.
The #118-3 is a perfect fit on my 1995 Geo Tracker. When you pull off the removable arms you would never know they are there. The Quality is very good easy to put on all you have to do is drill 4 holes the tube on the base plate fits into the tube on the frame of the tracker and with the 2 bolts it is a solid fit. I was worried about the plate nut getting it inside of the frame but it went in easy when you put it over the frame tube and use a thin piece of metal to slide it in place. I’m very happy with it. I probably could of got it on without taking my bumper off but with only 4 bolts holding my bumper on it made it easier
rec. in good condition. have installed by dealer in sept
Works as advertised!
Great job by Greg and team getting me the right equipment in a timely manner. Thank you Etrailer!!
THE PRODUCT WAS AS ADVERISED. THE FIT WAS GOOD AND THE INSTRUCTIONS WERE FIRLY THOUROUGH. I INSTALLED THE BASEPLATE MYSELF, ALTHOUGH I AM A BODY SHOP OWNER OF NEARLY 40 YERARS AND HAD EVERYTHING NEEDE TO DO THE INSTALL IT WAS STRIGHT FORWARD.
The base plate came with all the required parts to due the installation. It took me 3 days to complete the installation, but is only because I was working outside and didn't have a lift to get the car up in the air to make it easier to work on. Net thing for me to hook it up to the house and going on the road.
It just came yesterday afternoon. I will begin installation maybe today or tomorrow. All the main parts are there and seem to be top quality.
Installed it myself on a 2017 Ford Focus. Watched a few videos on how to pull front bumper and install mount. The hardest part was making the holes in the steel front bumper. I like the fact I can remove the outside mounts that the hitch mounts to. I’ve pulled the car about 5,000 miles behind the rv with no problems.
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