Do Weight Distribution Hitch Brackets Have to Be 4 Inches from the Spring Bars?

Updated 03/30/2026 | Published 03/25/2026

Question:

Do the brackets on the frame have to be 4inch in from end of bars? And how do I determine what tilt I need and which holes to use on the head unit? I have a 2016 Ford f350 super duty w/ 6.7l turbo diesel, 35inch tires. A 2018 starcraft launch outfitter, 28, 240DK BH TT. One problem Im having is that one of the battery brackets is welded on exactly on the centerline where the brackets go. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

asked by: Brian K

Expert Reply:

Hello Brian,

On the Curt TruTrack 2P Trunnion Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - 7-Hole Shank - 12K GTW #C75RJ, the brackets don’t have to be exactly 4" in from the end of the bars. That 4" guideline is really just to make sure you’ve got enough of the spring bar extending past the bracket so it’s properly supported. You’ve got some flexibility on where those brackets sit as long as the bars are riding parallel to the trailer frame and everything is even side to side.

For head tilt, I usually start with the head straight up or with a slight tilt back toward the trailer and then fine-tune from there. The best way to dial it in is by taking measurements at the front and rear wheel wells before hooking up, then again with the trailer coupled, and then once more after engaging the bars. You’re aiming to bring the front of the truck back down close to its original height. If the front is still sitting high, add a little more tilt back to increase tension. If it drops too much, back the tilt off. With your F350 diesel on 35s, you’ll likely need a bit more tilt than average since that truck has a pretty stiff rear suspension.

As far as which holes to use on the head and shank, that’s mainly about getting your ball height right. Set the ball about 1–2" higher than the coupler when the trailer is level, then use the tilt to get your weight distribution where it needs to be. The exact hole choice isn’t as critical as getting the final stance and load transfer correct.

On the battery tray being in the way, that’s a pretty common situation. You don’t have to hit an exact mounting point, so I’d just shift the brackets slightly forward or back to clear it. As long as both sides match and the bars are sitting properly on the brackets, you’ll be good to go.

The first time setting it up can take a bit to get everything dialed in just right, so just be patient =)

If you can, respond directly to the email you receive with a picture showing where that battery sits on the frame and about how many inches it is from the coupler. That’ll help make sure you’re in the best spot. Also, are you getting everything dialed in for your next adventure? Where are you headed this time?