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Detail K2/
Utility Trailer/
1640 lbs/
88L x 52W Inch/
2 Inch Ball CouplerItem # K2MMT5X7
Our Price: $1,484.67
This item qualifies for Free Truck Freight Shipping
Utility trailer attaches to a 2" hitch ball and lets you haul almost any kind of cargo. 2-Position bed tilts for easy unloading. Tailgates fold out and side walls can be removed for larger loads. Weighs only 451 lbs, and holds up to 1,640 lbs.
Features:
Specs:
Note: Due to the size of this item it ships via truck freight and only to the contiguous United States.
With a 1,640-lb payload capacity, this Mighty Multi A-frame trailer can be used for hauling an ATV, UTV, equipment, yard waste, and much more. And its lightweight construction makes it easy for even small cars and trucks to tow.
The length of the trailer bed can be extended by folding the front and rear tailgates down. First, release the tailgate from the side panels. To do this, unclip the 2 snapper pins that connect the tailgate to the latches on each side panel. Then lift the tailgate up out of the latches and simply fold the panel down. Lanyards keep the pins attached to the gate latches so that you won't lose them.
When both tailgates are unlatched, you can remove the side panels to create a flatbed trailer. To do this, unbolt each side panel from the trailer floor separately. There are 6 cargo tie-down locations on the trailer floor, which make it convenient to strap down large and bulky items.
The trailer bed can either be level in its travel position, or tilted down for loading and unloading. This makes it safer and easier for you to load heavy items because you can slide them into the trailer rather than having to lift them.
To tilt the trailer bed, simply unclip the snapper pins that connect the bed to the frame. Lanyards keep the pins attached to the trailer bed so that you won't lose them.
Once both pins are released, the trailer bed can be tilted down into the loading/unloading position. Shifting heavy items toward the rear of the trailer will help to tilt the bed down so that you don't have to do as much heavy lifting. Once you're ready to reload, shift the weight of any heavy items toward the front of the trailer to help the bed level out again. When the trailer bed is back in its travel position, reinsert the pins to secure the trailer bed back onto the frame.
The trailer's tail lights work in tandem with the brake lights and turn signals of your vehicle, and they are compliant with DOT standards for street safety. Additional marker lights are located on each side of the trailer, and they will illuminate when your vehicle lights are turned on. This makes the trailer more visible at night.
The trailer light wiring is pre-installed and cleanly attached under the trailer bed. The wiring harnesses are conveniently located in each light bracket, making it quick and easy to plug in the tail lights and marker lights when you mount them.
An additional bracket is included for your license plate. This will attach to the driver's-side tail light.
Installation Details 
Video of Detail K2 Mighty Multi A-Frame Utility Trailer - 7-1/2' Long - 1,640 lbs
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we're going to be showing you how to assemble the Detail K2 Utility Trailer, part number K2MMT5X7. This trailer can be delivered to your front door, and can be assembled in under an hour. To begin our assembly I've gone ahead and unpacked all of my hardware. It's a good idea to have a large workspace. The trailer is shipped to you purposely upside-down to make installation easier. It's important to know which part of the trailer is the front and which is the back.
The front is going to be located where the two pins are here. First thing we want to do is put our leaf springs in place. Now, keep in mind everything we do on this side, we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. Our leaf spring here, the hub end is going to face towards the front of our trailer. It's going to line up with the holes here. Now let's move on to our tongue tubes.
Before we set those in place, we'll need to undo our pins here in the front. For setting our tongue tubes in place, we'll need to make sure we have the correct one for the correct side. Our jack stands are going to be facing towards the front and facing up. This is what's going to make our A frame in front of our trailer. Then I'm going to set it within the mount here, then I'm going to bring it around. We've got two holes here, the bottom one is going to line up with our leaf spring hole.
Then I'm going to take the larger of the four hex bolts. We want to make sure that one flat washer is on. I'm going to put it through the bottom hole of my tongue tube. Once it comes out the other end, I'm then going to put it through the hole here, which goes through our leaf spring and out the other side. Here on the outside we'll then take another flat washer and then our lock nut, and just hand tighten that down. Here at the rear of the leaf spring we're going to take the shorter of the hex bolts, again, we'll want to make sure there's a flat washer on one end.
We'll come from the inside out, put on our flat washer, and then our lock nut. Then we can tighten both of our bolts down. Now, you want to be sure not to over tighten, because the channel may collapse inward. To tighten both of these bolts down I'm just using a 19 millimeter wrench and socket. Now, you can use power tools, just be sure not to over-tighten. For our tongue tube with the wiring harness, let's go ahead and connect it to the center here. Then we can just tuck it underneath to the clips here. With our tongue tubes in place, let's go ahead and reinsert our pins. Now let's install our coupler and our safety chains. We'll grab our coupler, we'll flip it upside-down. It's going to line up with the hole here and here. Now, you may have to squeeze the tongue tubes together a little bit. We'll get it in position. I'll then take the hex bolt that was installed on the coupler. It doesn't rightly matter which side you put it through. I'll go through and have it come out the other side. Once that's through we'll follow it up with a flat washer and then a lock nut. For our second hole, our safety chains are going to be attached to, but from the inside. We can get our bolt ready. We'll leave one flat washer in place. I'll lift it up, I'll start coming through. I'm going to take one of my safety chains, line it up, and continue pushing it on through the other side. Then take my other safety chain, get that connected, and then come out the other side. Again, we can just take a flat washer and our lock nut. Now we can tighten up our bolts. Again, I'm just using a 19 millimeter wrench and socket. Again, be sure not to over-tighten. Now it's time to lay our axle on our leaf springs. On each side of our axle we've got a little concave here. That's going to rest on top of our hex head here on each one of our leaf springs. We'll just need to line that up on both sides. With our axle in place, let's grab our spring plate. The hole here in the center is going to line up with the hex nut on the underside of our leaf spring, like that. With that in place I'm going to hold it up. I'm going to grab a U bolt for each side and push that down through the two holes. With those in place, I can now put my flat washer on, along with a lock nut, and hand tighten those down. Now, before we tighten down one side, it's important to have the opposite side loosely installed. For these I'm just using a 17 millimeter socket, and I'm going to alternate. Once we've got our axle completely secured down, it's time to install the tires. I've gone ahead and put blocks of wood underneath my trailer to make it a little bit easier. We'll bring the tire in and align it up, and set it in place. Then we can install the lug nuts. We want to make sure that they are pointing towards the wheel. Now I'm just going to snug these up with a 21 millimeter socket. We can torque them down later at the end of the install. With our tires installed, let's install our light assemblies. We'll start with the side marker lights. We'll take our quick disconnect, we're going to run that through our trailer, make sure it goes to the other side. Then we'll just line it up with our provided holes and take our included hardware. Now I'm just using a low torque gun. Loosely install one side, and then get the other side. Now let's connect it here on the inside. Very easy to do, just line up the tabbed end, push it in until it snaps into place. In order to install our rear light assemblies, we need to install our housing brackets first. We've got two here, one for the driver and one for the passenger side. The one for the driver side is going to have the bottom cut out for our license plate light. This is our passenger side, so we'll be installing the opposite one. The two holes we're going to be working with on our trailer are right here. We want the open cavity side of our housing to be facing towards the back of our trailer, that way our light can sit inside. Now, when we mount it to our trailer, we want to make sure that the whole here 00:08:19 is going to be on the bottom of our trailer. This is what allows our wiring to pass through to connect to our quick disconnect. We'll take our included hardware, line it up with the holes, push it through. Once it's through I'll take a flat washer and then a lock nut and get that started. Then I'll just pass the next one through. To tighten these down I'm just using a 10 millimeter socket. Now let's install our rear light. Again, we want to be sure to install the correct one on the correct side. The driver side is going to be the one with the license plate light, so we're going to install the passenger side one. Our side marker light is going to face out and our wiring is going to pass through the wiring hole. Then we'll just line it up and push it into the back side of the bracket. Then we'll just line up the bolts with the bracket on the back, and then we'll put on our hardware that was with our light, which is going to be a flat washer on each side and then a nut on each side. To tighten these down, it's just going to be an 11 millimeter socket. Then we can just make our connection. Our driver side's going to be installed the same way, we just need to be sure to install our license plate bracket. With the rear lights installed, you'll need to flip the trailer over to finish the rest of the assembly. It's a good idea to have plenty of help to do this, as the trailer at this point weighs about 400 pounds. It's time to install the fenders. The hardware is pre-installed, you'll just need to remove the flat washers and nuts, and then we can set it in place. It's going to rest on the weldment 00:10:32 bracket just behind the tire. With it in place, we'll install our flat washer and our lock nut. To tighten these down, we'll be using a 13 millimeter socket. Let's install our side panels. We need to make sure that the flush side is facing towards the inside of our trailer. I've gone ahead and removed the hardware that came with it so we can set it in place. We'll just drop it into the center mount, and that's going to line us up with the two outside mounting points. Then we'll grab our hardware. Want to be sure that we've got our flat washer installed. I'm just going to slightly lift up on it to align the holes, and put those both through. Once they're through, we'll put on another flat washer and then our lock nut. Now let's install the rear ones just the same. It's a good idea to install these before you tighten down the front. To get the holes aligned you may need to pull out slightly on your rear light bracket just for it to sit down flush. To tighten these down, we're just going to use a 13 millimeter socket and wrench. For our front, it's the same size. Finally, it's time to install the gates. The front and rear install the exact same way. Let's go ahead and install the rear one. We'll need to undo our pins. Now, when we install the gates, again we want to be sure that the flush portion is sitting towards the inside of the trailer. I'm going to raise it up, I'm going to set it in place within the channels on each side, and then I'm going to set the pins down into the channel here. Now we can install our hardware. We'll put that through with a flat washer on. Once it's through the other side we'll put a flat washer on, followed by a lock nut. This too is going to be a 13 millimeter socket. Now we can reinstall our pins. With our trailer assembled we can now torque down our wheels to the manufacturer's specifications. We want to do it in a star pattern. With those torqued down, we're ready to hook up to our vehicle. It's a good idea to check your trailer wiring before you head out on the road. That's going to complete our assembly of the Detail K2 Utility Trailer, part number K2MMT5X7.
Average Customer Rating: 3.8 out of 5 stars (4 Customer Reviews)
Utility trailer attaches to a 2" hitch ball and lets you haul almost any kind of cargo. 2-Position bed tilts for easy unloading. Tailgates fold out and side walls can be removed for larger loads. Weighs only 451 lbs, and holds up to 1,640 lbs.
I probably use the trailer about 2 to 3 times a month. I like everything about it. Small, compact, and easy end gate use. The issue I have had was one of the tail light brackets welds broke. I re welded it myself. The one thing that would make it much handier is to extend the length to accommodate a 4x8 foot sheet of plywood or other building material. 497029
Cons first. I received this trailer on a Saturday evening, 6:30pm. The 500+lbs palletized box had been loaded onto an enclosed Estes freight truck using a forklift. No thought was given to the fact that the pallet was 8 feet long by almost 6 feet wide. The truck was only equipped with a 5 foot lift gate! The pallet was broken in pieces , as was the box. I'm over 70 and had to climb up into the truck several times as I and the driver unloaded the trailer pieces by hand. The trailer floor alone weighs about 200 lbs! The scattered pieces seemed okay so I signed off. Upon completion of assembly I discovered the lights didn't work. Testing revealed the wiring had been cut INSIDE the frame tube! 20 miles to town, and $50 worth of loom, wire, connectors, end plugs and tape later, the lights work. The license plate bracket would have positioned the plate only a few inches off the ground (on a tilt-bed trailer, no less) so I had to make a mount above the taillight and then 20 miles back to town for a license plate light, $25 later the plate is where it belongs. The sides, front gate and rear gate all go on easily, but don't line up, or, seal well enough to haul dirt, sand, or gravel. The rear gate won't engage the upper latch at all, meaning I have to wrap rope around the trailer to keep the load from sliding right out the back. Although it's advertised that the tailgate will lay down flat for long loads (lumber) it does not, but instead falls to the ground. If you need to haul long loads you'll have to unbolt the tailgate every time as I do. The six tie-downs advertised are only usable when all the sides and gates are removed. If you need to haul an appliance or furniture -- you're out of luck. The gaps around the front and rear gates are so large, you can stick the fingers of your hand right through. Remember that if you discover the hub grease fittings are broken off, as mine was, they are metric. Go to Napa. I'm trying to load some photos so you can see for yourself. Now the pros (positive things). Although I'm deeply embarrassed to be seen pulling this thing down the road, at least it's black, making it almost invisible in my yard -- almost. At the end of it all: trailer, 1 star. etrailer, 4 stars. Etrailer has normally great products, great prices, free shipping, and outstanding customer service. I'm one heck of a disappointed shopper right now, but I'll still take my business to etrailer. Check out the detail photos. 425276
I have had this trailer for about a year now. I pull it with my Ford Flex. I have found the size, quality, and versatility greatly exceed my expectations. Even though my Flex has a large capacity, the K-2 handles everything from lumber runs to dump runs with no wear on the interior of the Flex. We live on an island and the K-2 has proven its worth many times over. Oh and the build was a breeze but two people makes it much easier. 559287
Good so far ,only used it 3 times 503940
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