Video Transcript for DeeMaxx Disc Brake Kit Complete Installation - 2025 Grand Design Momentum Motorhome

Hey, guys. Coming here with etrailer and today, we're gonna be showing you how to install the DeeMaxx disc brake kit for triple axle trailers here on our 2025 Grand Design Momentum. If your triple axle trailer, whether it's a toy haul or not, just really isn't giving you that braking power that you're really looking for with those electric drum brakes, then disc brake setup is gonna be the right fit for you. Over the years, most of the vehicles out on the road have all switched over from a drum brake setup over to a disc brake setup just because it has so much more braking power and the maintenance on it is gonna be a whole lot easier. It's a little harder to see from out here, but you can see on the inside, we have extra holes in our rotor. The big thing about disc brakes is that there's a lot more heat dissipation.

Whereas those drum breaks are just gonna sit there and keep heating up. All those excess holes in there kind of let all that heat dissipate out and it also helps in wet weather conditions 'cause it's also gonna kind of fling that water out, whereas drum breaks, it's just gonna kind of suck it into this drum. And then, it's just gonna end up rusting out your components a lot quicker. As far as maintenance goes, it's gonna be a whole lot easier than your typical drum brake setup. You're not replacing as many components as often.

Usually with that disc brake or the drum brake setup, you're replacing not only the drum and the hub, you're also replacing that brake assembly pretty often. On this, all you're really gonna have to replace is just those brake pads inside of there and this doesn't gonna require a mechanic to do. This is something you could easily just do at home. If you look later on in our installation side of this, I'll show you exactly how to pop those brake pads out, pop in some new ones, and you can get your trailer up and running. Taking a little look at our assembly back here at our axle.

We're gonna have DeeMaxx's rotor and hub kit, which is gonna have DeeMaxx's max coating all over it, which is gonna give you a thousand hour salt spray rating. That's coating is also on our brake caliper mounting bracket and our brake caliper itself. So that way we can keep that nice and clean. We don't want that corroding over time, especially if you're using this in a marine application. When we take a closer look at our brake pad, so this is gonna be the painted back and it's gonna have your Kevlar pad on it.

When we take another look at the pad, you can see this is kind of that like yellowish color in there. If you look at a ceramic brake pad, you're gonna have a dark gray. It's a little bit rougher. As you can see, it is also a bit thicker. Ceramic does do pretty well at braking power, so it is gonna be a little bit better than Kevlar. But the trade off here is that this Kevlar has a lot more heat dissipation. These ceramic brake pads can get ruined by heat, and then what happens is you're losing your braking power. Another step that DeeMaxx took is that they ran a chamfer in and they have these little outlets right here, which is gonna help dissipate any kind of noise. 'Cause usually with disc brakes, especially like on your car, you'll kinda get that squeaking noise as they rub against the rotor. Having that in there kind of cuts out that vibration and it breaks it up to where it's not gonna hit that every single time and it's gonna kind of quiet it down. Taking a closer look at our caliper, we have two bleeder valves. DeeMaxx also does a great job by adding in this little rubber cap. It helps protect it. Keep any contaminants from kinda getting it in there. Pop that off and it can kind of spin around too, so you can have it get outta your way whenever you are bleeding the brakes. If you don't know exactly how a caliper works, what happens is these pistons right here are gonna press and compress those two brake pads onto the rotor. So as the rotor starts spinning, that's gonna compress down and grip this nice and tight and give you that braking power. Now, what happens is over time, these brake pads start to wear down, and then you're gonna start needing more fluid in your actuator. So, why don't we go take a look at the actuator and I can explain a little bit more about how that works. So, our actuator's gonna come with a fully sealed all aluminum housing here, and that's gonna help prevent any foreign contaminants from getting in and ruining our brake fluid and possibly affecting our brake power at the back. It's going to have a 360 degree fitting. That's actually pretty nice. Most places or most actuators aren't gonna come with a 360 degree fitting and it's gonna be typically in the back. So, it is kind of hard sometimes when you're setting these down and trying to figure out where you can actually mount it. This being 360 and allowing you to kind of adjust it as needed made it so much easier to install. Now with that 15.7 fluid ounce reservoir, that's probably gonna be enough for your triple axle and under, if you do have a quad trailer or quad axle trailer. You might wanna switch up to the G1600X. This just has a larger reservoir built into it, but it's still the same technology, still the same housing. Everything's all the same, just that larger reservoir. So it with that, it also will take up quite a bit more space. So, you might have to do a little bit more planning whenever you're doing your install, but that's gonna help push all that fluid forward or backwards I should say. And it's going to give you the option to put a little bit more fluid in it, so that way as your brake pads start to wear down, it still has that extra fluid to kind of push back and fully push those pistons in and compress the brake pads onto the rotor. The actuator's gonna require 12 volt power, so you will need to tie that in with your tow vehicle. It's gonna run through the seven way to get that power and it's going to also require an electric over hydraulic compatible brake controller. Now, most people don't always have that. A lot of people have a factory brake controller. You're gonna wanna switch away from that because there's just typically a lot of issues kind of trying to communicate with that factory brake controller to the electric over hydraulic actuator. So if you need help picking out a brake controller, make sure you hit us up either with a comment, email, or question. We'd be happy to set you up at the right brake controller to make sure that you DeeMaxx actuator is actually gonna respond. So if you take a closer look at the cap, it actually says use DOT 3 or DOT 4. DOT 4 is definitely recommended over DOT 3 for this. And it'll even say it multiple times all over the unit. Taking a look at our brake lines, we're gonna have a few different lengths of flexible hose. Now typically with disc brakes, most people aren't gonna want to use a flex line. There's a whole lot of debate on whether a flex line is better or a hard line's better. Personally, I do prefer hard line just because I can cut it to fit. I don't have to try and work exactly how I set my t's up and where I mount everything based on you know, where the cross members are here. I can actually screw into metal. With this one, I had to get a little creative just because our flex lines weren't matching up exactly with how the trailer has its cross beams. So, it took a little bit more time to do and you know, it might not be the prettiest, but like I said, DeeMaxx has done all the testing. They've proven that their lines are strong enough to withhold it. They can stand up to the elements. Especially with being under your trailer, you're gonna be kicking a lot of stuff up and hitting that underbelly, hitting those brake lines, especially the one that's closest to your assembly. That guy's gonna probably get the most stuff kind of flung at it or the abuse that you're gonna see as you drive around. One of the nicer things that DeeMaxx does with their fittings though is they give you a little bit of space right here. On some other ones, it's a challenge to really get you a wrench in there. So with a line wrench, you weren't really able to get in there and get a good grip on this, and then be able to get it off. So it might find that, you know, it's a huge challenge to try and get your other brake lines in if you didn't have all that space, like we do with the DeeMaxx. The brass fitting right here is gonna be 3/16 in diameter, and then our thread size is gonna be 3/8. The hose itself on the inside under all that rubber is gonna be a 1/8 inch thick. Swapping out the hub and rotors, super simple. I mean it's pretty much the same as if you we inchesre doing a you drum brake set up. You just greasing your spindle and your bearings and you're getting that all hopped onto the spindle. But when it comes to the brake lines, that can be a little bit more challenging 'cause you are gonna have to kind of figure out exactly where that you got a good spot to mount to. With these being flexible soft lines, you're not able to just kind of cut it to fit and then mount your tees exactly where you need 'em to be. So this might take a little bit more planning, especially when you're mounting your actuator. That also does require quite a bit of planning just because you never know what's gonna be up at the front of the trailer that you're gonna have to try and fight around. And then running all your hoses out back to the assemblies. And if you need help doing that, you can bring it up here to etrailer or you can check out our dealer locator to find a shop near you. They can help get you set up. So starting off our installation preparation is gonna be the key here. You wanna make sure that you have plenty of room. You're definitely gonna need a lot of gloves. You're gonna need a lot of shop towels 'cause there's gonna be a lot of grease going on once we switch over to our new rotor and hub. We've also gone ahead and we've secured jack stands at each point on our frame, at the front and the back on each side. That way, we can support our trailer, get it up off the ground, so that we can have our wheels loose. I've gone ahead and already broke each of these lug nuts loose. We're gonna go ahead, take 'em all off, pop our wheels off, send 'em to the side, so we can start breaking down our hub assemblies. (wrench whizzing) (metal clanking) Now to break down our hub assembly, we're gonna need to first take off our dust cap. Usually, you can kind of beat these off as you go and kind of keep spinning the hub. With these being so new, they're probably not gonna come out too easy and normally, I try to save these but since we're gonna be replacing them with our kit, honestly, you can just kind of tear these up as you get 'em off. So, I'm gonna take a little flathead. I'm gonna try to get back behind it. (metal clanking) I'm just gonna work my way out. You can spin it, and then just keep kind of prying as you go around. (metal clanking) All right, with that off, I'm gonna go ahead and wipe off a little bit of this, make it a little bit easier to get to the cage. Depending on the brand of your axle, you will either have this little cage right here holding on the nut and the washer or you could have a pin and clip. If it's Dexter, you're typically gonna have this little cage, so we'll just pop that off. On this time, we are gonna save these and our washer and our nut here just because we are not gonna have these included in our kit. But the bearings, you can trash 'cause we're gonna have all those included. Machine locks. And once you get that off, you can go ahead and grab the hub from each side, just kinda rock it side to side and you'll pop out your washer. I'll throw that to the side. And our bearing, it's gonna pop right out with our hub. Go ahead, we'll set that down. I can just throw my bearing in there 'cause these are going into the scrap. Next, you can take a shop towel, kind of clean up any loose grease. You see there's kind of quite a bit of rust kind of sitting in all that grease on here. So, we wanna clean that up nice and good. You might wanna take a little bit of brake cleaner and just spray some on there and wipe it down real nice. And now's also a good time to check each of your journals on your spindle. We don't want any scratches that we can feel with our fingernail on any of those journals. If you have that, it's time to replace your axle. For our brake assembly, we're gonna take out these five bolts right here that hold on our assembly. And then on the backside, so this trailer, it's gonna have two wires run into our brake magnet. We've got a power and ground, and then we also have a electronic sway control that's hooked up to this. On the back of this assembly, which I'll show you in just a sec, has just a little clip you can unplug and we're just gonna save that and tuck it up into the underbelly. (wrenches whizzing) You got it pretty tight. I'm gonna have to pull it down. And like I said, you can see those little clipping connectors. Just disconnect both of those and I'll tuck that up away. Mounting studs or bolts for our brake assembly are also gonna get popped out. Just be careful you don't accidentally hit your spindle. (metal clanking) In your kit, you're gonna have five bolts and lug nuts. We're gonna go ahead and we'll put a little bit of antis seas on our bolt. You can just go ahead and put it down one side just like that. So when mounting your caliper bracket, you're gonna go ahead and put this either at the three o'clock or nine o'clock, which is going to be either front or back. We're gonna go ahead and we're gonna put it towards the back. So, I'm gonna slip this on We're gonna line up our holes and just stick a couple of the bolts through. Get two in to kinda hold it in place. And then, you can go back and throw on one of the locking nuts. And we'll just repeat the process for the rest of 'em and start tightening 'em down. Since there isn't a neural on this to kind of hold that in, we're gonna have to go ahead and stick a second wrench on the backside, and then we'll just start tightening down each of these bolts. (metal screeching) Now, we're gonna go ahead and just torque these down to the specifications listed in the manual. Next, we're gonna go ahead and get our rotor and hub assembly set up. We're gonna take our inner bearing. That's gonna be the larger of the two and we're gonna grease this up. Now, you can do this by hand or you can pick up a bearing packer like we offer here. You can also typically pick this up at any kind of auto parts store. It's gonna make your life a whole lot easier 'cause instead of sitting there and scraping a whole bunch of grease into it in your palm of your hand, you can sit here and kind of spin this around and it's gonna work all that grease up in between the rollers of the bearing and give you a pretty good healthy glob along the outside of it too. So, you can see we got the grease coming out the top. Go ahead and I'll pick that up out of there. I don't wanna bring out too much. We don't need a huge glob on there. But what I'll typically do with all that excess is kind of smear it around, get it nice and lubed up, and then I'll take all that and just kind of rub it on this spindle. We're gonna get a whole lot of grease on our hands doing this, so it's definitely good to have some gloves and a whole bunch of shop towels. Next, we can go ahead and drop this right in and work in our grease seal. I'm gonna go ahead while I still have my hands all greasy and do the inner bearing or the outer bearing as well. That way I don't have to change up my gloves so many times. All right, next we're gonna go ahead and just kind of do a really light film of grease along the outside of the grease seal. This kind of helps just squeeze it in a little bit better. And they also recommend putting a little bit on the inside rubber seal as well. And then, we're gonna try and set this in as perfectly flat as we can 'cause we're gonna hammer this into place to prevent our grease from falling out the back. So now, we're gonna go ahead and take a piece of wood. This is just a flat surface for us to beat down that grease seal width without going past the center of the hub here 'cause we don't want this to kind of fall in too far. If it does, then you're gonna have grease leaking out of this. So, we'll set that across. I'm just gonna light kind of tap her in. (wood thumping) And kind of just feel, see if it feels level across here. I feel like I got a little bit of a hump right here. (wood thumping) All right, that feels a whole lot better. We can go ahead and get this ready. Go on our spindle. Now, we're gonna go ahead and slip on our hub and rotor real careful. We want that to go on nice and tight. And then, we will go ahead and grab our outer bearing, pop that right into place. Next is our washer and with this being a Dexter axle, so you can have that D washer. Pop that on, and then our nut. And we will tighten that down, so that it seats the bearings. To seat the bearings, we're gonna go ahead and do it Dexter's way since we're using a Dexter axle. Depending on who you talk to, there's gonna be a whole different way that you've never thought of to seat that bearing and tighten down that axle nut. So really, it's just kinda whatever you decide, you wanna go by. With this, we're gonna tighten it down to 50 foot pounds. And then, we're gonna back it off 'cause we don't want this super tight 'cause then it's just gonna pinch the bearings and they're not gonna wanna glide with the assembly here. We want that about hand tight. And then, we're gonna take our cage right here and we're gonna pop that on as well. Now, you might have to move that nut just a little bit more just to get the cage on. Doesn't always fit on exactly at that tightness. All right, so you can see we're not really getting it on too easy just 'cause it's kind of catching on some spots. We can go ahead and just loosen this up just a little bit. Line up like that. There we go. That's gonna keep that nut from being able to back off. After we have that tight, we can go ahead and kind of see if there's any side to side play. I'm not really getting any. It's really important to go ahead and throw on your caliper as well and check all of that with the wheel. We've done a bunch of these installs and found once we get it on the wheels don't always match up with that caliper and it starts to rub. So, we're gonna start by throwing that on, and then we're gonna also do that wobble test again. We're gonna move our piston and sleeves back on our caliper. Make sure we got enough room here, so that when we stick it in the bracket. We don't have to fight it at all. I like to kind of start from the bottom and slap it right up into place. You're gonna see there's a little bit of a gap right here. We wanna move it back to where that's almost just lined up perfect and that's how you're gonna find that hole on the backside of the bracket. And then, that is going to require a half inch socket, a wrench. We're gonna go ahead and use our little guy right here. And I'm gonna get just one of these started just to make sure this can't fall out. And I don't wanna go all the way down yet just 'cause I might need a little bit of play, so I can get the bottom in place. Then, these are gonna get torqued down to the specifications listed in the installation manual. It's a little tight with that upper one here, so you might find some issues doing it with just a normal socket. You might have to go get like a crowfoot. All right, I got the wheel back on. I got two lug nuts we can kinda pry on it. I ain't really getting any motion out of it. And now, we can check. No issues with our caliper rubbing the inside of the wheel, so we're all good to go. We can go ahead we'll take our wheel off. And then, we're gonna do the same exact thing on our other five assemblies. Now, we have our other side done and all of our assemblies have swapped over. We're gonna go ahead and figure out exactly where we can set our actuator, so that way we can figure out how we're gonna have to route our lines to each assembly. On fifth wheels, you're typically not gonna be able to find exactly where your junction box is too easy. Usually, they love to hide it up in the nose of our trailer. We've gone ahead and we've traced it. It comes all the way over to here, comes through a hole inside of our cargo compartment up top, and then it runs down. In this front cargo bay, we have our battery and we also have a generator. Pretty typical with newer fifth wheels. Now, we're gonna go ahead and set our actuator right next to the battery 'cause this is kind of a decent spot for it. We've got plenty of room around it, so it can breathe. We're not gonna have anything kind of falling over it, because he really shouldn't have anything in here with the battery. And I've got a nice piece of frame right under this, so I can go right into it and know that I'm hitting the metal. You don't have to worry about this kind of vibrating around or anything like that. So now, we can go over it. We found the junction box. It's actually on the side, up in a little storage compartment, so we'll take you right over there. So, here's our junction box. This is a little weird. Most of the time, you see a junction box, it's gonna be just that metal junction, like gang box that you'd see in your house. This time, they actually got WAGO connectors to put all of it in nice and neat. So, we've already kind of gone ahead and figured out what each wire is and marked them. We're gonna go ahead and kind of route our wires 'cause there's an opening right here in the backside of our junction box. So I'm gonna go ahead, we'll get that actuator mounted and then start running the wires up to here. I'm gonna go ahead and just start out with self tapers here. (wrench whizzing) Just kinda make a little bit of a mark of where I want it. And then, I'm gonna switch into the other side, and then get this outta the way 'cause my drill's gonna fight this the whole way. (drill whizzing) All right, now, we can move it back a little bit. (drill whizzing) (vacuum humming) (metal clanking) (drill whizzing) You get one on the front and then one on the back. Make sure not crooked here. I might need to loosen that up just slightly though. (metal clanking) (drill whizzing) Since I don't have four colors here, I'm gonna go ahead and just label my blue and use it twice. So, I've got plenty of blue wire and then I've got white and black and that's probably just about enough to get through. So, I'm gonna label it on both sides. Now we'll know, you know if we ever have to come back and look at this, maybe we have an issue down the road, we can always know exactly what that wire's function is. We have our bundle of wires here. We have our black, which is gonna be our 12 volt power. This is gonna be pulling power from your truck side. We wanna make sure that this is only pulling power from the truck, otherwise, this could just sit here and drain your battery. The yellow is going to run to our breakaway switch. That way if there ever was a breakaway, it's gonna activate and lock up those brakes, so you can safely pull over the shoulder. We have our blue wire that is going to be getting power from our brake controller. So every time we step on the brake, so we use our manual override, that's where our power is gonna be coming into our actuator. And then, the white wire is just gonna be our ground. Now, I am gonna use heat shrink butt connectors in here but I don't really need to do it at the junction box 'cause down here, there is the chance of moisture up in there. Probably not as big of a deal. There's the other wire. They don't really give you that much in my opinion. They do have it soldered, which is nice. So, we can crimp down on that and it's not gonna budge but I prefer to have a little bit more. I'm gonna try and get the casing off like I did on this one but without ripping off that solder, just to give it a little bit more to bite into. Take one of our heat shrink butt connectors. We'll pop that right in and crimper down. Do a little tug test and just repeat that with the rest of the wires. Now, we'll just complete our connection to our actuator. Tag are black. Be careful. You wanna make sure that this blue wire right here is going to your brake controller wire and not to the breakaway battery and switch. (blower humming) We'll go ahead and just heat these up, get those all to close, get a nice seal on our wire. (blower humming) So now, that I have all the wiring in place, I'll go ahead and show you how I did it. I had all my wiring come in through that little hole up here. We've got our power wire. I've just spliced that in running to our 12 volt power. Right next to that, we have our breakaway switch. That's that orange and white wire here. So, I just teed right into that with a butt connector. And then, next to that we have our brake control wire. I did go ahead and disconnect the wire that ran out to our old electric brake assemblies. You can leave that here. If ever down the road they wanted to switch back to electric brakes, maybe someone else buys this trailer and doesn't like disc brakes or they just don't have a setup for it, they could go ahead and reconnect that and be good to go. Further down, we have our ground wire, I got that going all the way down to here. We've got a WAGO connector. This whole four slots right here is our ground and also right here. With that being open, it was just too easy to stick it in there and close that. If you didn't have that, you could go ahead and just ground that wire right by the actuator to the frame. You'd have no issues as well. Now with all the wiring in place, we're gonna take our 20 foot hose. We are going to use this 90 degree fitting and we're gonna attach it to our actuator. We're gonna run it back. Now before I go ahead and do that, because this is gonna kind of be in the way, I'm gonna drill out my hole for it going ahead and I've got just big enough of a hole saw to kind of cut through there and have this fit through. But I don't want to go too big 'cause we don't want a huge gaping hole in the way that rodents and other stuff can kind of get through. Once I get that hole in place because it is metal back there, I'm gonna go ahead and take some wire loom and just run that around. And then, I also have some gasket maker. We're gonna go ahead and fill that hole back in 'cause like I said, we don't want rodents, we don't want bugs getting inside of our trailer. Now, that I got that hole, I'm gonna go ahead and take this out. We'll just use our Phillip or you can use the Phillips or flathead just to get this plug out. We'll thread on our 90 here. We're gonna thread this all the way back. This is a jam nut. As you can see with our 90 right here, we're gonna be putting this into this port and we're running it straight back. But we wanna make sure that we get this all the way on first. So, we'll kind of thread this a few times and then we will get it kind of how we want it and then use the jam nut to secure it in place. Get a nice tight fit. And as you can see, it's starting to almost get there. Pop that down a little bit more and we can go ahead and tighten that down. We'll use two wrenches here to hold this in place. One on the 90 and one on the jam nut. (metal clanking) Going from our actuator back to the first axle, we're gonna be using the 20 foot line. It's gonna be the largest out of the whole bundle there. I'm gonna throw it through the backside just because I don't wanna run 20 feet through the front right here when I can easily slide under and just put exactly what I need through there. I've hand thread in our fitting a little bit. We're gonna go ahead and we'll take a line wrench that's gonna have more sides on it there, so you can get it nice tight, get more torque down onto a fitting. A little bit awkward getting it in just 'cause real tight space. (metal clanking) So we're not getting big turns here. Now with that fitting tight, I'm gonna push the rest of our cable back through that hole and we can kind of figure out exactly where we're gonna mount this. There is a lot of stuff on the bottom of your trailer or this trailer. Go ahead and check out your trailer. You're probably gonna have to finagle around a few things. You might even have to move a couple things on the bottom of your trailer just to kind of get everything nice and secure 'cause you don't want anything happen with these brake lines. On each of these hoses, you're gonna find on each end, it's gonna have a 3/16th double flare fitting here. That is that double flare is gonna help seal up. So whether you're going into the brake caliper or into a tee, it's gonna pop right in. Now these don't have a lot of threads, at least with the tees, that you'll really have to put in. Once you start getting it tight, what you're gonna wanna look for is do I have any movement between the tee or whatever else I'm tying into in the hose. Lemme back it off just a little bit, so you can kind of see what I'm saying. So right now, I can kind hear that clicking back and forth. I have a little bit of space in there and we don't want that 'cause then we're gonna have a leak. So we'll tighten it up until it just gets tight enough. And to do that, you wanna make sure that you are using a line wrench. It's got extra sides on it compared to a normal wrench. So, you get a nice tight fitting on that nut. Starting out at the nose, we came through that wall that leads into our underbelly area. We trace that down the side frame rail here. We actually we inchesre able to kind of tap into the trim piece that's holding up the underbelly sheeting, until we got up to this point. And then, I kind of took it out a little bit. We got a cross beam going that way. And I use that to kind of tighten up some of the slack here and really push this away. I don't like the hose line being anywhere near the suspension. Falling that a little bit further, we're gonna come up. So, the cross beams didn't really line up well for me just because these hose lengths. There's not much you can really do. There's not enough to fully wind it up and I can't cut it down to size. So, kind of had to make do only one of these. I went and got a piece of scrap metal. I screwed that to the frame, and then I screwed our tee down to that piece just to kinda hold it. I'm also gonna come back and I'm gonna zip tie overall this. Make sure it's nice and secure. We don't want any chance of this kind of falling down and getting caught in the suspension. If you look at the hose leading from the tee over to our actual assemblies, we have a little bit of slack that is gonna be needed, because we've got three inches of travel. As your suspension starts to compress, this is gonna move up and down. So if we don't have enough slack, we're just gonna rip the hose line out right out of the caliper. Following for he other way, we have a much longer line that we took over the other assemblies. We're gonna repeat that on each one of these axles and just use that medium size running between each axle. Now past the second axle, you can see here's one of those zip ties. They give you a bunch of really, really nice big ones. Makes it way easier to hold this down and actually feel secure about it. Coming up to this last tee, we just have that three piece tee for the end because we don't have anything going past that. And like I said before, we've got our lines running to our brake assemblies. So on the other side, like I said, we used that longer piece. It's going straight from the tee over to that caliper. So what I did was on this one I actually used a linn clamp that was already there for their waistline. On the other ones, I just took the linn clamps that they provided and some zip ties and kind of held 'em in place. Like I said, you wanna have a little bit of play but you don't have so much that it could come down and potentially get caught by something. With all of our connections made, we're gonna go back through and just one time check. Make sure all of 'em are nice and tight. Then, we're gonna go up and we'll fill up our actuator and do a leak test. I put a little bit of fluid in the lines and I've kind of run it a little bit. And I've got another person up front. I'm gonna have them keep adding fluid and run the actuator. And we're gonna start at the very end of our assembly line here, which is gonna be our pass or our driver's side on the third axle all the way at the rear. We're gonna do this. We'll move over to the other side and we're gonna move up. And we're just gonna keep crisscrossing back and forth until we get to the first assembly in this whole line. And we're gonna go until we get a nice strong line of fluid outta here with no air bubbles. Now if you're seeing air bubbles, that means you just need to keep pushing fluid through until they're all gone. You don't wanna reuse the fluid that you've pushed through and collect it into your container. This top valve is where we're gonna bleed the brakes from. We don't wanna do the bottom. Otherwise, we're gonna trap air bubbles up top. You pull that little cap out of the way at your wrench and we're just gonna loosen this just a bit and pop on our line. (brakes humming) You can see some of those smaller air bubbles passing through the line right now. All right, that's good. And before go, I'm gonna tighten this down a little bit. While doing our bleeding process, we did find a leak coming from right here. Go ahead and tighten it just a bit more. Good way to see if this is leaking at all, if you can't really see it coming off of the fitting itself, throw a piece of cardboard or some paper towels or something just under each of your connection points and you can see exactly where it is. So, we've gone ahead. We've bled all of our lines. We did have a few issues where we just needed to tighten up those fittings, just a tiny bit more with the line wrench and then we we inchesre good to go. Now just to reiterate, you do wanna go from the back assembly up to the front assembly while you're doing this just to make sure that you're properly bleeding out all of those air bubbles, so you don't have any contaminants that could potentially stop your brakes from fully biting into the rotors here and then stopping the trailer. Now that all that's complete, we can go ahead. We're gonna take our grease gun and we're gonna load these up just a little bit. Now, if you've never done this with a easy lube axle, you don't wanna sit there and just keep pounding away 'cause we've had a ton of people where they come to us and they say, "Hey, I've put about half a tube of grease in here and now it's, you know, if something's not right, I'm not seeing any grease come out the front." It's not always gonna come out the front. You really only want to get two, maybe three pumps with the grease gun 'cause what happens is on the backside, you're blowing your seal out, and then you're just spraying grease all over your brake shoes. If it's an electric or with our electric over hydraulic here, it's gonna be all over those brake pads. Then, we're replacing our brake pads. Last step here is gonna be putting on our dust cap. There's not really anything difficult about this. You just wanna kinda make sure it's getting in there nice and straight. You don't wanna actually hammer right on this 'cause there's a good chance you're gonna end up denting this up 'cause it's not really that thick of a piece of metal there. So, I like to take just a piece of wood to kind of prevent any issues and. (wood thumping) Try and hammer that in as nice and straight as you can. Kind of run our road, road it back and check. (wood thumping) And then, we'll just take our plug and pop that into place. Final step is gonna be just torquing the lug nuts on our wheels. Obviously, we gotta get the trailer down. So, we've moved our jack stands outta the way and lifted, retracted the leveling system that is on our trailer. And we're gonna go ahead and start with the top. We're gonna crisscross, go down to the bottom. And then we're gonna work our way across as we go. Typically, you'll see a lot of the newer trailers, they'll put a sticker right by the wheels that has a pattern for you so you know exactly how to do it. And then, they'll also typically write whatever torque rating you have for your specific trailer on there as well. Well, I think that about does it for today's installation of the DeeMaxx disc brake kit for triple axle trailers here in our 2025 Green Design Momentum. If this video didn't help you or you still have questions, please feel free to reach out to us with either an email, question, or comment and we'd be happy to help you out.