With 40,000 Btu of heat, we recommend this built-in furnace for RVs about 40' long. It will get your RV nice and toasty far quicker than a space heater, and it includes a door so the unit can be serviced from the outside.
Features:
Specs:
Bigger isn't always better. Getting a furnace that's bigger than you need can cause problems. A major one is that it will burn even more propane than you need.
You really only need about 1,000 Btus for every foot of RV length. For example, a 20,000 Btu furnace would be good for a 20' trailer or motorhome. That's why we'd recommend this one for a 40' trailer.
If you're installing a new furnace, the decision between door or doorless furnace will depend on where its installed and how you can get to it for maintenance or repair. With a doorless version, only the vent plate will be visible on the outside of your RV. This gives you a cleaner look, but it also means that you must be able to access the furnace from the inside of your RV.
The doored version isn't really a door, but more of an access panel that is screwed in place. You shouldn't need to access your furnace regularly, but when you do, you will need that access panel if the furnace is mounted in a place that you can't easily get to inside your RV.
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hello, neighbors, Steven here with etrailer.com. Let's take a quick look at our Dometic RV Furnace running on LP gas with an automatic pilot light of 12 volts DC current, rated at 40,000 BTUs with a nice black access door panel. Now, I will remove this panel so we can take a look at the inside, and also so I can give you some dimensions. You got a nice heat shield here. Comes with a nice length of tubing. The nice metal door's been black powder-coated, nice, shiny finish.
Some foam insert there, and before that door goes on, you would actually put this plastic fascia behind the door as well, and it's got some foam and some inserts there and everything as well. So, I just wanna give you a quick look at that. I'm gonna put that to the side. Now some quick dimensions. 16 1/2 inches wide, nine inches tall, and 20 inches deep or long, depending on how you have it configured.
You can do it horizontally like we have now or vertically, so you have that flexibility of installation. And with this furnace, you can quickly and efficiently heat up the interior of your RV or camper. You can replace an old one that's broken or just upgrade, or maybe just simply add one if you don't already have one. Now, it does use what's called a DSI gas pilot. So, with the propane connection that's hidden under here and the propane hookup, that DSI gas pilot will reduce the risk of gas leaks, and also increase the fuel efficiency of the unit.
It's gonna relight automatically until the heater is switched off. It does feature a low-air turbulence, so that's gonna provide quiet operation. On that panel down there at the bottom, there's an LED light in the middle of that control board. That may flash in the future, and what that does is it's giving you a fault reading or a diagnostic code. So, per the instructions under Troubleshooting, let's say this thing was flashing, I dunno, two or three times every so many seconds, it may be telling you, "Hey, you have a bad ground", or "Hey, your gas is empty" or something of that nature.
So, just follow the instructions for any kind of fault codes to remedy that quick and easy. You have four wires here on top for wiring it up. Two blue for thermostat, red for 12 volt power, and black for 12 volt ground. So, again, great for boondocking, 'cause it runs on propane, but you only need the battery power to quickly, easily ignite that. Now, as you can see there are a lot of pop-outs along the sides, tops and bottoms. That's gonna be used with these three included duct adapters. So, depending on your needs, you'll pop them out and put your ducting in place. Two mounting brackets with some screws, and also four screws for the front fascia when you're covering it. Now, some things that I read in the instructions when I was looking at this unit that aren't really mentioned a lot online in anyone's things that I found was, you may possibly some butyl tape to put on the backside of this guy whenever you're mounting it on the exterior of the RV. That way you got a seal around this guy that's watertight, weathertight from the outside going in. That's not included. You will for sure also need a thermostat. We sell white or black. Now, these are what we call mechanical thermostats, meaning they're not digital, there's no Bluetooth, Wi-Fi access, that kinda stuff. Just a basic thermostat to control the heater on and off, and then how hot or how much heat you want out. Another thing you might possibly need, it'd be maybe some number six and number eight panhead-style screws, self-tappers that are about a 1/2 inch long. And again, that's for mounting it in place per the manufacturer. Everyone's RVs are different wall thicknesses, those kinda things, different applications, so again, read the instructions clearly before you start, and I don't think you'll have any problems. So, once again, folks, 40,000 BTUs. The whole unit's pretty light, about 35 1/2 pounds, and again, this is the 40,000 BTU with black access door. I'm Steven, thanks for watching.
Installed and working hours after delivery! Worked great in 1999 Dutchman .
It was easy to get all the info I needed to select the correct heater for my 5th wheel.
etrailer was extremely helpful in navigating the myriad of choices available and determining the correct unit to purchase. We provided the BTU output and dimensions with the ductwork configuration that allowed the salesman to accurately sell the unit that (1) fit in the space provided without modifications (2) matched the BTU output (3) provided auto ignition and worked from the existing thermostat and (4) required minimum modifications for the ductwork.
The old furnace suffered from a cracked heat exchanger which set off the carbon monoxide alarm inside the camper. Carbon monoxide is deadly and could cause a fatality. We took the furnace apart and sent the heat exchanger to a welding shop for repair. The crack was repaired, but other holes were found during pressure testing. The heat exchanger was a
discontinued item for manufacturing and therefore lead to the decision to replace.
The unit cabinet required modification to accommodate a horizontal installation with a floor duct inlet that was different than the configuration provided by the factory. A new duct outlet was cut using a template from the old furnace and using sheet metal shears. The gas line required a slight modification to reroute from a side entrance to the top. The plastic connector and wiring harness were removed from the old furnace and installed on the new furnace with heat shrink connectors. The modifications took a couple of hours to complete, however the unit is installed and working as expected.
The furnace after installation is performing very well. The unit operates from the original thermostat. We have stayed in the camper for a week with temperatures dipping down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit with extremely good comfort. etrailer is highly recommended for anyone shopping for a new RV furnace.
Do you have a question about this RV Furnace?
Info for this part was:
At etrailer we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.
Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.
Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.