Video Transcript for Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Install - 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

Hi, I'm Danny with etrailer and today we're gonna take a look at, and I'm gonna show you how to install the Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch for our 2015 Chevy Silverado 3500. So the towing capacity of this gooseneck is gonna be 30,000 pounds and that is gonna be the trailer plus what severs inside of it. Now the vertical load limit, which is the pressure pushing down on the ball in this direction, is gonna be 7,500 pounds. One nice thing about this gooseneck is you can, if you're not towing, flip this around and you get your full bed access and it does come with a nice cap too, so you can leave that on there, it's magnetic. As far as install goes, it is a little difficult. There's a lot of tight tolerances and really hard to get to spots to torque.

So I would highly recommend you use our dealer locator and find somebody in your local area to do this for you. But if you think you can do it yourself, then follow along and I'll show you how to do it. So first off, what we're gonna wanna do is find where we're gonna drill our hole. So I'm gonna get my tape measure, hook the end of the bed and put a mark on these specs of the instructions. Now this is a shorter bed, so it is gonna have different measurements for an eight foot bed or a shorter bed.

And we do have a liner and I went ahead and measured the thickness of that just so I could get a proper measurement 'cause you're wanting to be at the actual end of the bed itself. So I did that and then I got my center line between the two wheel wells, same process, just measuring from either side and making sure it's centered. So then I just used a paint marker to find center and I got a center punch, so my drill bit doesn't walk on me. Now I'm gonna make a pilot hole with a quarter inch drill bit and I'll get this started here. (drill whirling) And now I'm gonna get my 3 1/2" hole saw and drill this hole.

(hole saw grinding) Now I'm gonna get a file and clean up some of these edges here. (file grinding) And now I'm just gonna get all these shavings cleaned up. (vacuum whooshing) Now I'm just grabbing a paint marker and I'm going to go around all this raw metal just so it can prevent rust in the future. So now we're up under the bed here and it does say to detach a fuel vapor pump here, ours is in the front so we don't have to worry about that. But it also says cut an inch on your heat shield on the gas tank.

I'm gonna leave it for now and see if it'll fit without it, but we are gonna have to take this heat shield down. So I am gonna cut this out. I'm gonna cut it along this side of the rail of our bed and the other side just so I can get this section out. So I'm just gonna use some 10 snips to cut this out. Can use an oscillator or maybe a grinder blade if you have that as well. (metal clacking) Now with this piece cut, you can remove it. (metal squealing) And set it to the side. So now I got the gooseneck rail here and I'm gonna need to slide this into the frame. So I got the wheel well liner and I'm gonna mark this to cut. I'm gonna kind of cut a little bit and then I'll cut more if I need to. So I went ahead and test fitted it and I am gonna have to make this a little wider and a little taller here. Now I'm just gonna give this another test fit and it is hitting, so I am gonna have to take some of this metal away. So now I'm gonna get my oscillator tool and take away some of this metal. You could use a grinder, see if this works. (oscillator grinding) So we kept cutting away just so and test fitting and we finally got a fit. So we did have to cut the metal all the way up to where this radius is and that got us to get a nice solid fit. I would recommend using a paint marker and getting those edges before you slide this in. But now I'm gonna go ahead and slide this the rest of the way into the bed. So after we got that first one in, I went ahead and scooted it up towards the cab, that will be our front one. Now we're gonna grab the rear rail and you know this is the rear because it has the large slots instead of the mini holes on top. But now I'm gonna go ahead and get this slid in as well. So now we're gonna grab our carriage bolts and we're gonna put it through this rear rail here. Now put it through this slot on both sides and now we can get this intersection raised up. Now we did find that this one has to be pushed back pretty far. So I did trim flush the metal from the heat shield before just so we don't have any interference there. So now you're gonna wanna orientate this the right way. So we are gonna be using these two holes here for the rear and we got the spring facing the driver's side. This will be the latch and I'm gonna go ahead and lift this into place. So now we did find it was extremely difficult to get those two bolts aligned. So what we did was we just got a bar here, you probably use a two by four and some jack stands and a ratchet strap and we pulled up the intersection, not all the way but just enough so it could hold it there while we kind of finagled those bolts in there. Now it is difficult, so I did get one side in first, put that nut on and then worked with the other side, but that's how I managed to do it. So as you can see up under here, we just loosely put a nut on both sides just to get this held in place. Now we scooted this back just so we could get our bolts in, I did have somebody push up on the bottom of this. You could use a pull jack or lift up from the top again, but we got these in there and make sure that they are the 2" bolts on all four of these. So now I'll go and put the hardware on the back. So it's gonna be a conical tooth washer that's gonna be facing towards the metal so it bites in when we tighten it down and then a nut. And I'm gonna do that with all four of these bolts coming into this gooseneck. So now with all our hardware in place, you can go ahead and move it back. So the hole lines up with the hole we cut in the bed and now I'm gonna get the front rail on. So you're gonna grab your two and a half hex head bolt with a flat washer on there and I'm gonna head around back and align our front rail with the holes and get these slip through. So now we're gonna put the conical tooth washer teeth facing in on both and a nut on both. So I am on the passenger side here and next you're gonna wanna remove this overload spring bracket. So I'm gonna get my 19 millimeter socket. (drill socket whirling) And get these three bolts removed. (drill socket whirling) We will be reinstalling this but we're gonna be putting a spacer on that one. So now we're gonna fish some hardware through our frame here. So we're gonna be using this hole and this one. So I'll get my fish wire and get some hardware fished. I'm gonna start with the far one here, closest to the tailgate. I'm gonna get my fish wire, put it through. I'm gonna feed that to this large hole in the back here. I bend the end so that doesn't come out. And on this end I'm gonna get a square spacer bracket, put that on and then I'm gonna thread my bolt on. Now you do probably wanna thread this almost all the way on 'cause these are loose and prone to pulling off. So now put the square bracket in and the bolt kind of have to do the head first just 'cause this is a tight fit that in as well. I am gonna try and pull this up and there we go. Now I'm gonna fish through this rear hole here or front hole rather. And same thing, get our spacer block in there and our bolt threaded on, that spacer bought through there and now the head of our bolt. This one you can kind of use your finger to guide just as it's so close, there we go. All right, now I'm gonna put this five eights block on this one closest to the cab and that'll be a spacer for our bracket. So now I'm gonna feed our frame bracket into place. I'm gonna put our fish wires through the holes they need to go in. It's gonna be this rear hole here and this one's gonna be this hole here. And these top two holes are gonna go into the gooseneck rails that run horizontal with the vehicle. Now I'm gonna get this put in place. (metal device clattering) So we did notice this wasn't lining up perfectly so I just got a block of wood and I hit the whole hitch towards the rear just so this would line up. Now that it does, I'm gonna put a conical tooth washer followed by a nut. Now we're gonna do the same thing on the front. So we are having some fitment issues with this one lining up here. So I'm gonna take a die grinder or bur bit and just grind a little bit away here just so I can get this back on. (die grinder whirling) So now we can put the overload spring bracket back on and it does give you a quarter inch spacer for this bottom section. So I'm just gonna put that spacer in behind there, get that bolt fed through and get this loosely in place. So lastly, we can put our conical tooth washer and nut on the side of our rail here. Now with with both these on, you can go ahead and repeat the same process on the driver's side. So now I'm gonna go ahead and tighten and torque all these down. Now there is a specific order to it in the instructions, so just make sure you follow that. But I'm gonna go ahead and get my 15/16th socket and start getting these all tightened down. (socket drill whirling) Now I'm gonna go ahead and torque these in the same order I tighten 'em down in, make sure you torque 'em to the specs in the instructions. And if you don't have a torque home, feel free to rent one at your local auto parts store or you could purchase one here at etrailer. And now I'm gonna get a small drill bit and drill for where my safety chain loops are gonna go. So you're wanna look for a low spot in the ribbing 'cause that'll better disguise them. So I'm just gonna get in the center of one of these. (drill whirling) Now I'm gonna get a step bit and open these up to the size for our safety chain loops. (step bit drill grinding) So I'm gonna just slowly open it up 'til it's a size that can fit that. (step bit drill grinding) (step bit drill grinding) So now we went ahead and spray painted our holes just to, again, make sure that they don't rust. But now we can go ahead and drop our safety chain loops through. So now up under here we're gonna put this spring on our safety chain loop, get it compressed. I'm gonna put a washer and our nut. And now we're gonna go and tighten 'em down with our 15/16, just flush with the bottom of the U-bolt here. (drill grinding) So now we grabbed our handle to open up the latch to get our ball out and we're just gonna slide it in here and line up our holes and then put the pin in, and we may have to do some trimming on the outside. So here's the handle. So I'm just gonna cut a little bit of this fabric away so it's a little easier. And that was a look at the Hide-A-Goose underbed gooseneck trailer hitch for 2015 Chevy Silverado 3500.