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Get ultimate peace of mind when you're out on the lake and when you're docked. Submersible, motorized pump with built-in float switch automatically removes excess water from the bilge wells in your boat so you can focus on relaxing.
Features:
Specs:
Note: A panel switch (sold separately) will be required to operate this pump. This pump cannot pump oil. It will not turn on if straight motor oil enters your bilge.
In simplest terms, a bilge pump works to remove water from your boat so that your ship doesn't sink. The number of pumps needed to do this depends on the size of your boat. Larger boats may have 2 to 3 bilge pumps installed at different heights within the bilge, while a smaller fishing boat may only have 1.
There are 3 types of bilge pumps available: manual, non-automatic, and automatic. Manual pumps are human-powered, and no one wants to be constantly monitoring their boat and pumping out water on their day off. Non-automatic pumps turn on with the flip of a switch, but they still require your attention. And they can be a hassle if they're not meant for your type of boat.
This Seaflo bilge pump is automatic, so once you install it, you don't have to do a thing. It will work on any boat, but it's ideal for those where the bilge is hard to access, so you need a pump that can be out of sight and out of mind. It will kick on when it detects water in the bilge and kick back off when the water level has gone down to an appropriate level, letting you cove out or fish without having to worry about water gathering in your bilge.
Quick Tip: If you hear this automatic bilge pump kicking on often, you may want to confirm that the plug is in your boat.
This pump is also great to have if you're docking in an uncovered slip because it will remove any rainwater that collects in your boat, letting you store your watercraft without worry.
The automatic functioning of this pump occurs thanks to the included magnetic float switch.
When water enters your bilge, the internal float will rise. It has a small magnet inside that, when it gets close enough to the switch, will draw the 2 metal reeds in the switch together. This closes the electrical circuit and causes the pump to turn on. When the water level drops, the magnetic float drops as well so that the reeds stop touching. This will cause the bilge pump to turn off.
If your bilge pump has gone bad and you need to replace it, installing a new one should be as simple as disconnecting the old pump and connecting a new one in its place. If you need an extra pump in your boat, or if you are installing one for the first time, you may need to affix a bracket or steel plate to your boat so you have something to mount the bilge pump to.
To mount this Seaflo pump, just pop off the strainer and attach it to your mounting point. Once mounted, the top of the pump simply snaps back into place on the strainer portion.
A thru-hull port (sold separately) will be needed for each bilge pump to drain water through. This will need to be installed in the hull, above the waterline and within 11' 2" of the pump. Keep in mind, the more water your pump has to push upwards (head), the lower your flow rate (or GPH), will be. If you measure from your bilge pump placement up to the height of your thru-hull, you can use the chart below to determine approximately how many gallons per hour you can expect this pump to move.
To route water up through this port, this pump requires 1-1/8" inner diameter tubing (not included) that secures to the drain nozzle with a clamp.
This pump has a 3' long, 3-lead wire that will connect to your power source. Wiring this pump to a switch is required.
Wiring code:
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
AJ: What's up, everybody It's AJ with etrailer.com. Today, we're going to check out this bilge pump from SEAFLO. Now, this one operates at 1,100 GPH, which is gallons per hour. Let's get right to it.This is going to be an automatic one. It's already got power running to it. So it's going to turn on right when I put it in the water.
That way I don't have to flip a switch or anything; it just activates. Enough talking, let's see it.We got 10 gallons of water in here that it's going to flush out fairly quickly. Like I said, this one's an auto, so it's nice. I don't have to flip a switch or anything.It's also a good early detection if maybe you forgot to put your plug in the boat. You ship off in your boat and all of a sudden you hear the bilge pump and hear the water come out.
And you're like, "Oh no, got to go plug it up." Once it's done, I just pull it out, it stops on its own. It's that easy.Let's take a look at how it works. I'm taking it apart. I took the filter off. This is going to help keep any debris from getting to the fan or the pump itself.
Any big leaves or anything that's going to keep from getting in there and stopping that from working.This is the switch that activates the pump. As the water rises, this will rise to the top, that will activate the pump. As the water gets out of there, it drops back down and it stops the pump all on its own. Which is good, because that means you don't have to watch it and flip a switch.This is what a manual one looks like. I'll take the filter off on it.
Just the fan. You wire this one up and it always has power. If you don't turn it off, it's going to burn itself out. So you want to make sure you flip that switch.A few things to think about when you're getting your bilge pump. Is, are you adding one to your boat, or replacing an old one that burnt out Either way, I suggest getting some new heat-treated butt connectors. That way, that wired connection is nice and sealed, and the water won't bother it.The other thing really comes down to if you're replacing one, you probably already have the hose in line. So you're just going to hook it up to that hose. You're good.If you're adding an additional one, you're going to have to get your own hose, a bilge pump hose, because it does not come with one. I recommend getting some hose clamps too, just to make sure that stays nice and secure on there as well.Now, these do fit hoses for an inch and an eighth. That's the diameter inside the hose that this is going to work with.I showed you the manual one versus the auto bilge pump. But we have a lot of different bilge pumps, and we actually wanted to put them to the test. We're going to put them side-by-side and see how fast they go.Here's the plan. We're going to pour 10 gallons into this container. And we're going to do that with every bilge pump to make sure we have the same amount of water. Then we can time it and see how quick it takes to pump it out.First up is the 500 gallons per hour. This is going to be the slowest one we have, but the smallest one. If you have a smaller boat, you don't maybe have the room to put the bigger 2,000-gallon-per-hour one in there. This one's going to work for you just fine.Next up is the 750 gallons per hour. This one's going to be a little faster, but the unique thing on this one is this is an automatic bilge pump. Once it hits the water, it's going to activate. Once it gets all the way down, it's going to shut itself off. . Stop.Now we're going to test out the 1,100 GPH bilge pump. This one's a non-automatic, so it's switch-based. But you're going to see quite a big difference from the last one. . Done.Now, this one's going to be the same 1,100 GPH, but this one's going to be automatic. Again, you'll see it activate once it hits the water, then shut off once it gets to the bottom. . Done.Now we're going to test out the 2,000 GPH bilge pump. As I drop this one in there, it activates right away because it's automatic. You're going to see it's going to take down the water pretty quick. . Done.So that's pretty cool to see them right in a row. And they actually do make a big difference. They don't just have the numbers on there for no reason. Our lowest one, our 500, was 50 seconds. And the highest one, at 2,000, was 22 seconds. That's a big difference. And we saw that change with each one we used.One thing I will note, though, is the sound sure didn't change too much. They sounded about the same, especially when it was submerged in water. Of course, it gets noisier when there's no water. You can hear it right before it shuts off.But most of these are going to be down tucked away somewhere in your boat. So they're not going to be right in front of the steering wheel, in your face. You're barely going to hear it when it's going in your boat, pumping that water out.One of the biggest differences for me is the switch-based ones versus the ones that have that auto switch. You can see, again, as this water raises up, it'll lift this up and engage it. I think that's just the better way to go about it.I don't have to worry about flipping the switch. Or what if I forgot to do it when the back of my boat floods Once this starts going up, it's going to pump that water out that way. It never builds up on you.Whichever one you go with, it's going to get the job done. But you saw that they just go a little bit faster. It's way better than using a manual pump or a bucket. I'd much rather have this do the work for me.I think that does it for our look at these bilge pumps. Hope that helps.
Average Customer Rating: 4.6 out of 5 stars (8 Customer Reviews)
Get ultimate peace of mind when you're out on the lake and when you're docked. Submersible, motorized pump with built-in float switch automatically removes excess water from the bilge wells in your boat so you can focus on relaxing.No, I'm not satisfied. It runs whether there is standing water or not, so it doesn't work as expected.
Awesome bilge pump! Very well designed. When I installed it in my boat, I attached it to a thick piece of steel to keep it on the bottom of the bilge. The base has 3 holes for securing it.
Brendan H.
12/20/2021
Still working well!
Great communication, and very fast shipping as soon as the product was available. Not to mention an extremely good price
Great for my boat
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Katrina D.
11/18/2023
This utilizes a dual sensor shaft that a donut float rides on. The sensors in the shaft are somewhat delicate. Make sure you have checked that there is no gas/oil/grease buildup on the donut and the shaft. If the sensors are hindered by a dirty substance you cannot turn the pump on/off. Do you have a 3 way switch wired into that pump?