Can I Use A Threaded Bolt And Nut To Secure Tow Bar Into RV Hitch?

Updated 07/20/2026 | Published 12/07/2025

Question:

Hello. High-security very difficult to break or drill the lockinch locking hitch pins cost $100 or more each. If I never have to remove a Roadmaster tow bar from the motorhome, what would be wrong with just using a double nutd with Loctite, 5/8inch Grade 5 bolt instead of using a locking hitch pin? Any guidance is much appreciated! Jim

asked by: Jim J

Expert Reply:

Hi Jim, good question. In theory, a 5/8-inch Grade 5 bolt with double nuts and Loctite would hold the tow bar in place, but it’s not recommended for a couple of important reasons. Hitch receivers and tow bars are designed to use a shear-strength rated hitch pin, not a threaded bolt. Bolts aren’t meant to take side-load shear the way a smooth hitch pin is, and the threads create weak points that can fatigue over time. Especially with the constant push-pull forces of flat towing.

On top of that, manufacturers like Roadmaster specify a hitch pin because it allows proper movement inside the receiver. Locking pins are expensive, but they’re still built to the correct strength and safety standards. A bolt may look secure, but it isn’t tested or rated for this application, and if anything failed you’d be way outside manufacturer specs.

So while the idea makes sense from a “set it and forget it” perspective, you’re much safer sticking with a proper hitch pin or a locking version that’s designed for towing loads.

expert reply by: Jesse M

Jim J.

12/8/2025

Okay, thanks Jesse!

Jesse M.

12/8/2025

@JimJ Glad to help! Feel free to come back anytime you need anything!

Jim J.

12/15/2025

Jesse, Okay, I agree with all your points. However, grade 5, 5/8" bolts (i.e. Hillman) have higher shear strength ratings than even manufactured hitch pins. By using a 3 or 3.5" long bolt and flat washers in a 2 inch receiver, no threads would be exposed to shear stresses along the receiver tube or stinger ends. Also, most locking hitch pins can be easily defeated by either a grinder with a cut-off wheel or by snapping the lock end off with the leverage of a long pipe. I believe only the very expensive locking pins like those sold by PacLock or Proven Industies have designs and materials adequate enough to deter even professional theives and these cost well over a hundred bucks. It just seems to me a double nut'd grade 5 bolt would provide a good level of security with almost zero chances of failure while towing. And at a cost of less than five dollars! Please, any further thoughts? Thank you and Merry Christmas!!!

Jesse M.

12/15/2025

@JimJ Hi Jim, thanks for the thoughtful follow up, and Merry Christmas to you as well! You’re absolutely right that a Grade 5 bolt has plenty of shear strength, and I agree that many inexpensive locking pins can be defeated with the right tools and know how. Really, almost any lock can if someone is determined enough, but I try not to go too far down that rabbit hole. Have you ever watched Lockpicking Lawyer on YouTube? His videos are fascinating, but they will make you lose confidence in the security of most locks. The main reason I still steer people toward a proper hitch pin or a towing rated locking pin is because that’s what the receiver and tow bar are actually tested and certified for. A smooth pin allows the small movement the system is engineered around, whereas a threaded bolt changes how the load is distributed, even if the raw strength numbers look good on paper. At the end of the day, it’s your setup and you can certainly choose the solution you feel most confident in. A Grade 5 bolt and double nut would probably work just fine in real world use, it’s just not something I can officially recommend.

Claudius

7/20/2026

The problem with using a standard hitch pin is it wears the receiver hole. Before you know it it's oblong. It bangs back and forth. The clearances are fairly loose between the draw bar and receiver. I haven't an issue with replacing bolts and or pins, but i've had to weld a washer on the oustides before and i don't like it. I get it but the price tag is too much. I use a 5/8"-18 locking hex flange nut. I don't like that it's grade 8. Grade 5 nylocks are hard to fine. The offshore stuff is generally Grade 2.