Opti-Brite LED Work Light - Spot Beam - 707 Lumens - Black Aluminum - Square - 12V/24V

Video Transcript for Optronics Opti-Brite LED Work Light Installation

Speaker 1: Today, we're going to review and install the Opti-Brite LED work light, part number TLL46TB from Optronics. Now, I'll also be using a section of jacketed wire, part number 10-2-1 to complete our installation. This is sold by the foot, so order as much as you need for your application.All right, this is what our light looks like, once installed in the back of our camping trailer. I think you can see it has a bright light, LEDs, it's not going to draw a lot of power, so you can leave it on for a long time if you'd like. And plus, you get no heat whatsoever. It will get warm here eventually, but not too bad at all.In a typical application, you're going to have a beam that's going to be about 7 foot wide.

As you can see, this is a square work light with 9 LEDs built into it. This will be great for applications such as industrial, agricultural or even recreational purposes.Now, our outer housing is constructed from die cast aluminum, so this is going to take a lot of use, if you put it in areas, it's going to get beat up. Even our hardware has some thought put into it, this is all stainless steel hardware, this is going to last a very long time and not corrode under wet or marine conditions, even.You get to mount here, two bolts and the hardware, so this will work as a pedestal mount and you can rotate it any direction you like, after you have it installed. Hooking up electrical to it is a very simple process, basically, we have one wire for ground and a wire for hot.Now, what's really cool about this light, you can use it in a traditional 12 volt system like we're going to use in our trailer here, but you can also use it on 24 or 36 volt system that you can find in industrial applications. Take a look at the back side here, you can see a little more detail on to the cast aluminum housing.

This also acts as a heat sink. The voltage is low voltage, but still create a little bit of heat and this is really taken care of by this venting right here, RV inaudible 00:01:45.This is great for applications that you're going to have a light on, for extended periods of time. Now I'll go ahead and show how we install ours. First off, you want to find a location that's going to work for you, in the way you're going to use it.In this case, our customer is going to use it for a backup light, so we obviously want to have it back towards the out, the back of the trailer and maybe off to the side, so we have some light to where he maneuvers. So in this case, we're going to mount ours to this section of the bumper here, because this bumper, square tube bumper can be used for storage, so we don't want any hardware going inside there.So I think what we're going to do is use our bracket right here and we'll make a mark with a yellow dot we have right here.

So I'll place it for us, then we can go ahead and install our hardware.Okay, now since this is a solid tube and we have no access to the inside, I'm actually going to switch up my hardware and use a galvanized self-tapping screw that uses a 3/8 nut driver to install with. I'll go ahead and just drill it out first.Next, we're going to put our hardware in place. First, I'm going use a small lock washer that comes with the kit, and then I'm going to put my self-tapping screw through the bracket and onto our split washer and put it in place. Now, our split washer is going to work underneath here, give it some grip and if we need to adjust it, we can, at a future date.Now let's go ahead and line up our light, put it in here, then we'll put our hardware together. Remember we got our long stainless steel screw and another lock washer.

We'll go ahead and run that in through the bracket and through light and out the other side, and then we'll install the locking flange nut.We'll put our light up. Now, after you have it in place, we'll go ahead and tighten up our hardware using a 12 millimeter socket. All right, now at this point we can go ahead and look for our electrical connections. Pretty simple, underneath our sheath here that we'll cut away, or have the same black and white wires. White wires will go to ground, black wire is going to go to our positive side.Now we have two of our lights here, so we're actually going to cut our wire in half, run this up to a junction and then have another set going to the other side, to where it's going to put this in line with our wires here. Let's go ahead and measure our wire and cut off what we need, a little extra for working room. Cut our sheath back, cut off our excess, and then we'll go ahead and strip back our wires.We'll take our two wires, give them a gentle twist and then we'll use a heat shrink butt connector to run the two together. Now we'll go ahead and crimp them down together, and repeat the same process with the white wires. Now we'll take our other half of our wire, reconnect right here and a short length to go up to our junction box.Our connection is made, we'll go ahead and apply heat to it, to shrink them together and protect our connections. All right, now we'll go ahead and route our wires inside our junction box right here. We're simply going to add some ring terminals to them and attach them here and here.So these two wires are going to go from our light on our passenger side and these two wires come from our light from our driver's side, and you notice our yellow splices right here These will connect up to our wire that are going up to the front of the trailer and hooking up to the reverse light circuit.So we'll go ahead and add our ring terminals, and I'll repeat the same process for our other wires. We'll go ahead and put our wires into the post that we want and go ahead and route our wire inside the box where we want it, and then we'll install the fasteners.And we'll tighten down, using a 3/8 socket. All right, and at this point, we can go ahead and reinstall our cap and the hardware, and once again, we'll need our 3/8 socket. Next, we're going to run this gray cable up to the front of the trailer and up to the junction box for the 7-pole connector.What we did, we just followed the existing wiring inside the edge of the frame here, just basically followed it all the way up. And we just zip tie it to the points where the same place as the factory wiring was zip tied at.And up to our junction box right here, we look for the wires that's coming from our 7-pole connector and found our yellow wire right here. This is pretty typical for a inaudible 00:06:08 7 pole connector, for a yellow wire to be reverse light lead off the truck.We use another heat shrink butt connector here to make a connection to our black wire, and our white wire here, we use a ring terminal, and ground it straight to the frame, inside the box. And this is all the hook-up needed for power for our lights out back.All right, we'll go ahead and put our truck in reverse and go ahead and try it out. These lights are really bright and will come in handy when you're backing up your RV into the camping site at night. And now finish it for the Opti-Brite LED work light, part number TLL46TB from Optronics.