Video Transcript for Mount: Blue Ox Base Plate Kit on a 2012 Chevrolet Malibu

Today on our 2012 Chevy Malibu, we'll be installing the Blue Ox base plate kit with removable arms, part number BX1679.Speaker 2: I'll go ahead and do a demonstration of installing the removable arms. We'll line up the arm with the base plate tube, slide it in, and turn until it locks into position. Take the removable arm out of the base plate or simply pull back on the locking ring releasing the pin. Rotate the removable arm, it will release from the base plate, then we can install the receiver cap plug to keep out the dust, dirt, and debris.To begin our install, we'll first need to remove the front fascia. To do this, we'll go ahead and raise the hood and remove the top cover between the fascia and front core support. Theyre 00:00:56 multiple bolts and push pin fasteners.

We'll first remove the bolts and then the push pin fasteners. To remove the push pin fasteners, we'll pry out on the center of the fastener and then remove the two-piece fastener completely. Once we have them all removed and set aside, we'll go ahead and remove the top cover.Next, we'll move to the wheel well. Inside the wheel well, there are four push pin fasteners that connect the wheel well to the front fascia. We'll go ahead and remove these four push pin fasteners.

Remove the bolt that secures the front fascia to the front fender. It's secured to the cutout whole in the wheel well. We'll go ahead and repeat this same process for the opposite side. Next, we're going to move underneath the vehicle, noting for this application a good portion of the underbody paneling is missing. However, what does remain still connects the front fascia to the wheel well, so we'll go ahead and remove those fasteners. Once we have all the fasteners removed, we can go ahead and remove the front fascia. To remove the front fascia, we'll pull out in the corner of the fascia where it meets the wheel well, releasing the fasteners underneath.

We'll work the front fascia loose as it goes underneath the headlight. Once we have both sides worked loose, we'll go ahead and remove from the vehicle. Note that it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you do this so the front fascia doesn't fall. Next, on the passenger side, we'll need to remove to air baffle. The air baffle is secured with a push pin fastener which we'll remove. Remove the fastener completely and a bolt that's behind the air baffle near the wheel well and inner frame.

Once we remove the bolt, we can go ahead and pull down on the air baffle and remove it, setting it aside for reinstallation later.Speaker 2: On the inside, there's a fastener connecting the air dam to the frame. Well go ahead and remove it.Next, we'll need to start trimming the air calling 00:03:41 that goes around the radiator and core support. Just below the bumper inside the frame rail, we'll need to trim the air calling 00:03:48. Using a paint marker, we'll go ahead and mark it first. Then using a utility knife or a rotary tool, we can go ahead and trim the plastic. Once we cut it, we'll remove the bottom half by removing the push pin fastener and setting the whole piece aside as it will not be reinstalled. We'll trim out a larger section. Using a paint marker, we'll draw a straight line down the corner of the air calling 00:04:21 to make room for the base plate. Once we have it marked out, we'll go ahead and use our rotary tool or knife to remove this piece. We'll do this to both sides. On the fastener side, we'll need to cut along the top edge and then down the corner.Speaker 2: Next, remove the bolt that holds the horn to the frame. Then unhook the horn wiring. We can set the horn aside for installation later.On each side, there are multiple fasteners to be removed. Some of these fasteners will be secured to you. The underbody fascia, the frame, or the inner fender well. Once they're removed, we'll go ahead and pull the inner fender well out and remove this pieces completely, setting them aside for reinstallation later. Now with that done, we've exposed the frame rails on both sides. We can go ahead and put our base plate in position. As we put the base plate in place, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to held it in position. We'll push it up from the bottom of the frame tight and pull it out towards the front of the vehicle hitting the front bumper flange. Once we have in position, we'll secure it with vice grips or clamps. Now, with our base plate in position, we'll use it as a template to drill out our attachment points. We'll have a total of six attachment points, three in each side.Speaker 2: We'll go ahead and take the 13/32 drill bit using the base plate as a template. We'll go ahead and mark the center point for each of the holes. Once we have the center point mark, we can use a step-it 00:06:33 process starting with the smaller pile or bit and working our way up to the 13/32 drill bit size. Now, with each of the attachment points drilled out, we can go ahead and start installing the hardware. As per the instructions, each fastener will get red Loctite applied to the threads before being installed. We'll be using the Loctite part number LT37420. Now, we'll be using a 3/8 by 1 inch long bolt that will go through the two lower attachment points. On the back side, we'll secure it with a split lock washer and nut. For the upper attachment point, we'll use a handle nut. We can take the handle nut feed it to the access hole on the bottom of the frame, then over to the attachment point, and thread the bolt into the handle nut. We'll be using a 3/8 by 1.5 inch long bolt going through a split lock washer to the base plate into the frame and securing it into the handle nut.Once we have all the attachments in place, we'll tighten them down. We can remove the clamps and secure the last connection point on this side. There are three fasteners on the other side and we can repeat the same process. With all of our fasteners tightened, we can then torque the specifications as indicated in the instructions. We can use a pair of side cutters or tin snips to cut off the end of the handle nut. Then we'll push the remaining end inside the frame. Now with our base plate installed and secured, we need to trim the air dam so we can reinstall it. First well take a paint marker and mark out the section to be trimmed. Once again, we can use a utility knife or rotary tool to cut out the sections. Once we have it cut out, we'll put our air dam back into place to resecure it with the fasteners. We'll repeat the same process on the other side. On the driver side, we'll reinstall the horn and then we'll use the open fourth 00:09:21 hole on the base plate. Next, we'll reinstall the air baffle. The fasteners will go through the air baffle to the pre-drilled 00:09:33 hole in the base plate and then secure it. Next, we'll reinstall the front fascia. As we set it back into position as closely as possible, we'll need to mark the cutout section of the lower fascia to make room for the base plate. We'll use our paint marker to mark the sections and then we'll use our rotary tool to cut it out. Now, with the necessary trimming completed, we can go ahead and reinstall the front fascia. With all the fasteners and bolts reinstalled, we need to take each of the safety cables to go around the frame with it and come back up with each of the loops connecting to the base plate using the quick link. Next, we'll use a couple of zip ties. These will assist in keeping the safety cables up and off 00:11:06 the ground and clean up the install up 00:11:08. Now, with everything reinstalled, this will complete the installation. There you have it for our install, the Blue Ox base plate, cable, and removable arms, part number BX1679, on our 2012 Chevy Malibu. .