Recommended Base Plate For 2025 Ford Ranger XL  

Yes, the brake wiring, as well as the 7/6? pin cable. Will also need a portable braking unit. Maybe the battery charge wiring as well. Thanks

Here is my experience installing this base plate on my 2025 Ford Ranger XLT. To summarize the instructions were not clear and incomplete. Also, the base plate was not a simple bolt on. Holes need to be reamed out on the base plate and on the vehicle. I am working from Roadmaster BASEPLATE KIT installation instructions KIT# 524481-5 dated 05/25. The instruction errors: 1 Removal of the top facia plate step 2. figure D page three of the instructions. The instructions seen to imply there are only two clips holding the facia on - there are 8. They can be easily undone by gently pulling the top of the fascia out enough to reach your hand to the bottom of the fascia where you can feel the clips and depress them to release them one at a time as you maintain pressure on the fascia to remove it working from one side to the other. Also, before that we drilled out one rivet of the license plate holder and rotated the holder down 90 degrees so it no longer impeded removal of the fascia. Be careful not to scratch the bottom fascia. 2 Prying back the wheelhouse trim step 4 & 5. Figure F & G. You do not have to remove this trim piece as far as indicated in the instruction. We did one side as they said and broke one clip. You do not need to remove the Phillips screw on top of the wheelhouse and you do not need to pry the trim piece out. You need to be able to get your hand inside the wheelhouse so you can remove the three 10mm bolts identified in Figure H. You can do this by peeling back the inner wheel well liner. It is a pliable fabric and held in place by the clips you removed in step 4. You can feel for the bolts and remove them without further deconstruction of the wheelhouse. Once the remaining bolts to the bottom facia are removed you will need to firmly pull the bottom fascia outward & away (not down) from the vehicle do each side independently. Then the bottom fascia can be easily removed from the vehicle. Parts that didn’t fit: 1 Step 14. There wasn’t enough room in the subframe to place the nut flat on the inside of the subframe. Not only did we drill the hole out to 9/16 inch as instructed we then use used a die grinder to slightly elongate the hole (by about a 1/16”) so the nut sat flush. Then the brace fit together flat against the subframe with the nut properly positioned. Also note that we did not utilize the mounting wire welded to the nut, there was sufficient room to hold the nut in place with one finger. We did this to both the driver side and passenger side. This was the only modification to the driver side base plate. 2 Installing passenger side base plate. Basically the bottom bolt holes on the outer and inner plate where not properly aligned and had to be reamed out for alignment. They were off by less than 1/16 of an inch but we could not assemble the bracket to the receiver without doing such. It appeared the spacers were welded on to the plates in the correct spot but the holes were not as exact. After reaming them out they need persuasion with a hammer and floor jack to complete the assembly. We did only as little modification here as we could get away with. I used the Blue Ox Patriot brake system also. I had to add a cigarette lighter to power the brake system. It is easy to get through the fire wall as there is a rubber plug located to the left of the steering column (as sitting in the driver seat) you need to pull away a bit of the insulation then you can pull that out and slice a hole in it to pass the power for the cigarette lighter and the breakaway switch cable. Good Luck and happy traveling! Tom B