How To Install Aftermarket Brake Controller and Bypass the OEM Controller on 2011 Chevy Silverado
Updated 03/13/2021 | Published 03/11/2021
Question:
I have 2 2011 Chevrolet Duramax Silverado 3500 trucks. Each have the integrated trailer brake controller. One truck wont recognize a trailer is connected and the other applies sporadic voltage when braking causing the trailer brakes to buck. I have hooked this trailer up to my personal 2005 Dodge 2500 and there are no issues. So...i would like to bypass the factory integrated brake controller and install the Prodigy P3. Is this possible? And will the Service Trailer Brake System always be on, or is there a way to get that off the instrument cluster?
asked by: Nathan B
Expert Reply:
This is entirely possible, in fact it's been done so often we have a Technical Bulletin provided by Tekonsha showing exactly how to do this (see link).
Let's start with an aftermarket brake controller. The Tekonsha P3 you'd looked at, part # 90195 would be an outstanding choice. The P3 offers tons of features like boost settings that work great if you make many trips in a trailer with it fully loaded one way and empty the other way (or vise versa). There are also 5 programmable settings that allow you to keep your settings customized for multiple trailers without needing to reset everything from scratch each time. Rather than the rudimentary single LED display or the slightly better alpha-numeric display used by other controllers, the P3 actually will spell out in plain English (or French or Spanish if you prefer) any problems with the trailer braking system so you won't need to remember color codes or error codes.
The 2011 Silverado didn't use a brake controller plug under the dash. The tow package harness is located between the top of the e-brake pedal and the steering column. The harness consists of 4 or 5 blunt ended wires and has a white tag on it, which makes it pretty easy to locate. I've linked to an article that explains this.
The pigtail included with the P3 (or many other brake controllers) would wire up to the tow package harness as follows:
• The Red/Black tow package wire connects to the Black wire on the brake controller pigtail
• The White tow package wire connects to the White wire on the controller pigtail
• The Light Blue/White tow package wire connects to the Red controller pigtail wire
• The Oragne wire isn't needed. Tuck it up out of the way
• The Dark Blue wire is addressed below
The dark blue pigtail wire would need to bypass the tow package harness. Splice on a length of # 10-1-1 wire long enough to pass through the firewall, into the engine compartment and back under the vehicle to the 7-way trailer connector at the rear bumper. Be sure to avoid anything that's hot or moving like exhaust, steering and suspension components. Right behind the trailer connector, find the harness that feeds it. Pull back the wire loom and/or electrical tape and locate the blue wire feeding the connector. Cut this wire about 6 inches forward of the trailer connector, and connect that wire to the circuit you've ran from the front.
This method completely bypasses the OEM controller, and you will not see any displayed errors as the OEM controller will no longer 'know' whether a trailer is connected or not.
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