To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
This setup keeps your front end looking sharp when you’re not towing. The hidden bracket design sits far back within the grille so only clean lines show once the arms are removed. When disconnected, the remaining brackets stay tucked away and protected from scrapes and scuffs for a near-factory look.
Getting ready to tow is simple with the removable drawbars. Just insert the arms, twist to lock them in place, and you’re set to connect your tow bar. When you’re done, twist them back and pull them out. Built-in pull rings make unlocking fast and easy, so switching between towing and driving takes only a few moments.
The base plate kit is built from computer-cut, all-steel components that deliver exceptional strength. A black powder coat finish adds durability and corrosion resistance, so it stays solid through years of towing miles. It gives you confidence that every connection point is secure and ready for long hauls.
No welding required here. The brackets mount directly to your frame using the included hardware, giving you a custom fit without fabrication work. Integrated mounting points let you add an electrical connector plug or bracket (sold separately) right where you need it for a tidy setup.
If you’re already running Roadmaster gear, this base plate kit connects easily with a quick-disconnect crossbar (910021-00 – sold separately). It’s designed to integrate smoothly within your existing system while keeping everything neat, strong, and easy to manage on every trip.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hi, this is Scott with Etrailer, and today, we're taking a look at and installing our Roadmaster baseplate on our 2026 Buick Encore GX. We often get asked a lot of questions on what you're gonna need to get started on flat towing, and you're gonna have five main components that you're definitely going to need, and those components are gonna be a base plate, you're gonna need a tow bar, you're gonna need tow bar wiring, safety cables, and some type of supplementary braking system. Another thing to take a look at is, you may need a charge line kit. Our base plate we have on our Buick today is gonna be a good option for someone wanting to get into flat towing. This is gonna have a quick connect style hookup on the front of this, and that just means you're gonna push your ends in and give them a quick turn, and they're gonna lock into place, and then you can get everything else set up. Now this is a really high quality setup, and really heavy duty.
It's gonna hold up for a long time of heavy use of getting pulled down the road. Now this one has a lot of mounting points on it, and I like how it mounted up, because it's really heavy duty, and it's designed in the different plates that they have to add structural rigidity. As you can see here on our base plate, we have a crossbar style hookup on the front of this, and what this is gonna do for you is make it a little bit easier to pop this off, and you can pull off this whole bar completely, and after you do that, then you can turn your quick disconnects, and get those turned out and removed. So it just simplifies things a little bit. It really depends on what type of a tow bar you have, and what type of setup you have, or you plan to get.
Now this crossbar style is gonna be a really good matchup for our Roadmaster tow bar that we have installed today. Speaking of disconnecting this, we'll go ahead and do that now, and we'll show you how that works out. Just wanna get your safety cables off, and we'll undo our wiring. And we have air brakes on ours, so we'll undo our airline. Now we can undo our tow bar pins.
(Indistinct) those out. Set those aside. Now we have our crossbar. Let's undo the pins on both of those. Now we can just lift this up.
(metal scratching) Set our crossbar aside. Now we can undo our breakaway switch. And to get off our arms, we'll just pull our pin, give that a quarter turn. Now once I pull this one off, as you can see, it's got a really clean look with nothing attached to the front of it. Everything's hidden in behind really well, and it even tucks in, into our fascia a little bit here, so it really makes it not a whole lot noticeable. You are gonna see your safety chain loops coming out a little bit, that's about it. Now if you have any questions or comments about this Roadmaster base plate for your Buick Encore, you can always leave any questions or comments down below in the comment section, or you can get ahold of one of our experts here at Etrailer. They'd be glad to help you out. Now as far as installation goes, this one is a little bit tricky. You're gonna to have to remove the fascia, and there is some trimming and fitting, so this one can be a little bit tricky to do. Now if this is something you don't feel like doing yourself, or you just wanna get a whole setup done somewhere, you can always take a look at our installer locator and get something done for you locally. If this is something you feel like tackling yourself, stick around, watch our video, and we'll help you get it installed. To start our installation, we have the hood up on our Buick, and we're gonna have three T15 fasteners on each side of our vehicle we're gonna need to remove. (drill whirring) You're gonna have one right here in the middle, but that one is not attached. We're gonna skip that one, we're gonna jump over to this one, and then we're gonna have one right over here above our headline. (tool whirring) Over here on our passenger side, we're gonna have this little fastener that holds the washer fluid neck on, just wanna get under that with a click tool, or you can use a screwdriver. Pop up the center, get underneath of that, go ahead and pop that out. After we have that out, we're gonna twist our filler neck, pull, pop that out, and then we'll set that aside. Underneath of our vehicle, we're gonna have seven millimeter fasteners across the front we're gonna need to remove. I'm gonna start over here, back here on the skid plate, and just start popping those out. (tool whirring) Now we'll work our way across the front. For our next step, we wanna get our little splash seal out of the way. We're gonna have a plastic fastener back here. It's gonna be another one of those little clips. Just pop that out, get that set aside. Now we're gonna have a series of seven millimeter fasteners underneath of here. We'll get all those removed. (tool whirring) With all of our fasteners removed, we'll pull back, get that out of the way, and we'll set that aside. On each side, we're gonna have two T15 fasteners that's holding on our inner fender liner. We're gonna remove those on each side. Now, we pull down this flap. If we feel right behind here, we're gonna have two 13 millimeter bolts. Those are gonna be two of this frame stiffener that's behind here. Just use the 13 millimeter socket, and we'll get both of those removed. Now you may notice I do have some blue painter's tape on here. I like to do that on all of my seams where this is gonna be coming apart. That way, we don't end up scratching anything when we start pulling this apart. So now, on the inside of our fender well here, we're gonna have five T15 fasteners that run up the inside here. We're gonna go ahead and get those removed. Now, if it's easier for you, you may wanna turn your front tire inward, that's gonna give you a little more room. I have an angled attachment, and so it's gonna make it a little bit easier for me. We're just gonna go ahead and work our way up and remove all of those fasteners. (device buzzing) We're also gonna have this little plastic fastener in our fender well, and I just wanna pop that down as well. Just like we did our other ones, just go ahead and pull that down and out. With those out, we're gonna pull our inner fender out and away. That's gonna give us a little bit of room here. Let's kind of move that back. Now right up behind here, we're gonna have our light. As you can see here, we have a marker light. We're gonna have a little plug back in here that's really tricky to get at. You're gonna have a little red tab on that. You're gonna wanna pull that tab back, and then right behind that, you're gonna have a little clip. You're gonna wanna push down. As soon as I get that off, I'll show you that. As you can see here, now that I have this out, this part was really tricky to get at. You're gonna have this little red tab on here, and with that, you wanna pull that back, and then you're gonna have a little black tab behind that. You push down, and pull that out. Now we're gonna need to pull back this outer trim, because we need to get just past up here. We're gonna have a seven millimeter bolt behind here. So with that, this is gonna tab in just down here in the bottom. I'm gonna pop that out of its tab, then we can start working our way up. Now once we get to this point, we may have to use a clip tool to get behind here, because one of these clips is really on there. If you can get behind that, pop that out. Now we'll keep working our way up. Now right behind here, if we look on this other side, we're gonna have our seven millimeter screw back in here we're gonna need to remove. To hold our trim back, what I like to do is, I'll just wad up a piece of shop rag, and just stuff that just up behind there. That's gonna hold out my panel, so when we pull off our fascia, it'll be out of the way, and now all that gives me a little bit more room so I can get at this seven millimeter screw. I'm just gonna use a seven millimeter socket, and we'll go ahead and get that removed. Now we're gonna go ahead and get started on pulling off our fascia. Just wanna pop up underneath the front, 'cause there is a little tab under here on each side, and make sure we get up above that. Then we're gonna start on our edges, and we're just gonna start popping back, and we're gonna start working our way across the front. Get yours to break loose, all right. (fascia popping) And just pull straight back. It may fight you a little bit. Over on our passenger side, we're gonna have a wiring harness. Just wanna pull back on this red tab, push down on that. Well, we should be able to get that to remove. Go ahead and unplug that one. We're gonna have another plug on the other side we'll have to remove. Now this side's gonna be a little bit different. Again, to get this little red tab, I'm gonna use my angled pick and just push that back. We're gonna have a little tab just in front of that. We'll pop that loose, now we can set our fascia aside. On the front of our vehicle, we're gonna have this lower air dam. We're gonna have to get this removed. Now in our instructions, it gives us a diagram of what they want us to cut off, so we can do that. So I'm gonna just cut straight down, and then I'm gonna run back, being careful of the front of our radiator there. I'm just gonna use a reciprocating saw, and just go ahead and get that cut out. (saw buzzing) Underneath of that air dam, we're gonna have a little plastic clip. Just wanna push in on that, and push out. After we've got that done, we can just pull that out and set that aside. We will not be reusing this part. On the front of our inner cooler cap, we're gonna have this tab that sticks out. We're gonna wanna trim some of this out for clearance, so I'm just gonna carefully use my reciprocating saw and we're just gonna get that cut out. (saw buzzing) Now we'll do the same thing on the other side. We are gonna have a little bit more plastic here, but that's no big deal. We'll go ahead and get that trimmed out. (saw buzzing) On our driver's side, we're gonna have these two connectors for our computers that we need to unplug. To undo this connection, we wanna push down on these tabs and pull that towards you, and that's gonna release your plug there. Now to undo this connection, we wanna pull up our red tab, and then back here, you're gonna have a little black tab push in on that. Then you can rotate up. Now we can pull that out. For our computer box, we're gonna have our wire loom on here. Just wanna take our quick tool, pop that out. We're gonna have another one back here. Now we're gonna have two 10 millimeter nuts. We wanna go ahead and get those removed. (tool whirring) Going back up in here. Now this part might fight you. There is a little tab back here, so just kinda pull straight back if you can. If that don't work, you can always get behind there with your clip tool, and just get that popped off. Now we'll set this aside. On our passenger side, down here on our inner cooler, we're gonna have this plug in, and this is gonna be our air sensor. What we wanna do is pull back on that tab, push down on our gray tab, and unplug this, and set that aside for now. Now we're gonna disconnect our washer fluid bottle, and with that, we're just gonna unplug our hoses down here on the bottom. Now I will find some pieces of hose or something to plug these (indistinct) off. After I get this off, so now, we just wanna get these hoses up and out of the way. Get those unplugged. Those can be a little bit hard to pull. Just go ahead and pull that off. Now to undo our connector for our washer fluid pump, we're gonna pull up on that tab, push in, pull up. That can be a little tricky to get off. Now we'll just set our lines and everything off to the side. We're gonna have one more plug in for this one. Same thing, pull back on your red tab, push in on the gray tab just in front of that, and go ahead and unplug that. With everything disconnected, now we can start removing our washer fluid bottle, and we're gonna have three 10 millimeter fasteners that hold that in place. (tool whirring) We're gonna go ahead and start getting those removed. (tool whirring) And we're gonna have another one right up here. That's gonna be 10 millimeter as well. I like to use a ratcheting 10 millimeter wrench to go ahead and break that loose. And after you get it broken loose, a lot of times, you can go ahead and loosen that up with your fingers. With all the hardware off, we'll go ahead and remove our washer fluid bottle. Now we do have another little Christmas tree type clip up there. Pop that off, now we'll set our bottle aside. Now we're gonna start on our driver's side with our plates, and these are gonna be side specific. You can see right here, this one has a little notch. We're gonna be lining up this notch right here with the edge of this pinch weld on the front. So with that, we just wanna get that in place, and line that up with the edge of that pinch weld. Then we'll come back through with a paint pen or a marker, and we'll just mark our locations where we'll be drilling our holes. Now we'll follow that same procedure on our passenger side. With our holes marked, I like to come in with a pilot drill bit first, and then we'll come back through and step up our size. So now I'll go ahead and get my hole started with my drill bit. (drill whirring) On each side of our vehicle, we're gonna have four 15 millimeter bolts. We're gonna go ahead and remove those with a 15 millimeter socket. (drill buzzing and whirring) In your kit, we're gonna have four of these longer spacers. These are gonna go on the holes on the inside of our bumper beam, and the shorter ones, we're gonna save and use them on the outside. So make sure you separate those out. We're gonna have four of the longer and four of the shorter. And just make sure you divvy those up, and know which ones you're putting there. So with that, we're gonna take our longer spacers, and we're just gonna drop them into these holes here in our bumper beam for now, and we'll do that on both sides. One thing we wanna keep in mind now that we're gonna start dealing with our hardware, is we wanna make sure we're using some type of a thread locker red on these, and just make sure we get that on all of our hardware that we will be installing. At this point with an extra set of hands, we'll go ahead and get our base plate lifted into position. Now you may need to move these around a little bit just to get everything to line up, but you wanna make sure we're getting into our spacers. And we're gonna start with our inside holes first. And usually once you get one of them started, makes it a little bit easier to line up the others. Now make sure when we get these in place that you have a lock washer, a flat washer, and then leave these loose on this side on the inside, 'cause you need to be able to get your shorter spacers to fit into the side, and we're gonna follow our same procedure with our hardware, and then make sure you have red loctite on everything. Now we'll take our side plate, and we're gonna get that put in place. Now we're just gonna get this up against our pinch wheel, and back, and we're gonna line up all of our holes, and we'll get our hardware put in place. Now we have all our hardware in place just loosely, and everything's all set up. Now these are really tricky to get lined up. Yo may have to pry these around a little bit to get all your brackets to line up. Just kinda pry it around and make it fit, but you're gonna wanna start with these up here first, get these, and then you may need to get in this, one of these holes, get one of your bolts through, and then just, you'll be able to make it a little bit easier to get your bottom one in after you get one in up top. So now we're, what we're gonna do is just follow the same procedure on our other side. Now we did end up getting our lower bracket in place loosely. So now what we'll end up doing is we'll come back through, and start torquing down all of our hardware. I'm gonna start with these up here, and then I'll just start working my way down. Now keep an eye on your manual. You will have different torque specifications for our hardware, so just make sure you follow through with that when you do this. Now if you don't have a torque wrench, you can always pick one up here at Etrailer. We do have some options available for those, or you can take a look at your local auto parts store. You should be able to rent one there. (device beeping) In order to start getting our fascia put in place, we did pull our foam piece out of the back of our fascia. Now this is just basically gonna be a little bumper pad that's behind there. We do have marked out where we're gonna have to cut that to clearance for our base plate. So what I'm gonna do is, I'm just gonna go ahead and take my reciprocating cutting tool, and we're gonna go ahead and get those ends cut off. (tool buzzing) With those cut off, we'll go ahead and get this reinstalled in the back of our fascia. Now as we can see here, we have our base plate all set up. Now while you have this all opened up, it's a good idea to get everything else as far as your other accessories set up as well. So here, we have our breakaway switch all mounted up, and we routed our wiring back behind our base plate, and then over towards where we came up underneath of our hood. Now you can see here, we have our wiring set up, and we got that routed back, and I did tie that off, so when we put our fascia on, we'll be able to slide this in place, and we routed that back and then along the backside of our base plate as well, and then ram that up underneath of our hood. Now here you see our airline. Our airline is also gonna be run up underneath of our hood, so we got that in place as well, and just again, routed that behind our base plate, and then up into our engine compartment. At this point, what we wanna do is just get our fascia held up in place. That way we can mark out and figure out what we need to trim to get this all to fit. Now we'll come back through with our multi-cutter, and we'll start making our cuts. (cutter buzzing) What we'll do now after we have all of our trimming done is, we'll come back through with a file, kinda clean everything up a little bit, best you can, and then we'll come back through and get our fascia reinstalled. Now when you do that, make sure you get all of your electrical connections hooked back up, and everything back in place. That way, you don't have to pull your fascia back off for forgetting to plug something in. And that was a look at our Roadmaster base plate on our 2026 Buick Encore GX. I'm Scott with Etrailer, and thanks for watching.
Ratings & Reviews
2018 Fiat Abarth install - Videos of install from etrailer helped a bunch. My 2018 fog lights on the Abarth required some trimming on the inside of the bumper cover. Photos in the instructions did not accurately depict my 2018 Abarth, but taking the grill and fog light assemblies off of the bumper cover allowed me to see what needed trimming. Basically a 1 inch notch with the dremel did the trick. I also got the rock guardian and falcon all terrain tow bar. super quick to assemble and disconnect. CLEAN LOOKING INSTALL WHEN EVERYTHING IS REMOVED.
The installation took me about 7 hours, the facia removal was tedious , between the installation videos and instructions, I performed the task. This bar has one con, the pull rings on the removal bars are flimsy , my first pull stretched one out. I’m sure trailer has a fix for this under warranty, I hope.
This base plate was installed on a 2008 Kia Spectra. The bracket is strong and not really hard to work with HOWEVER,,,,,,,,,, I am used to the BlueOx base plate which is much easier to "hook up". Unfortunately, BlueOx did not make a base plate to fit my vehicle. That is not a big problem as I'm usually not in any hurry and it only takes maybe 5 minutes longer to "hook up".
The biggest problem with the RoadMaster base plate is that due to the way it is bolted to the frame, it only allows for a 6-inch ground clearance on the front of the vehicle. I have to be very careful with any "dips" in the road, especially on cross streets. Six inches may not sound like much but since the tires are several feet behind the base plate, it reduces that ground clearance greatly. It also will not clear the concrete "stop blocks" in front of many parking spaces.
If you are not very careful and keep this in mind, you may likely bend the frame of your car when you come to one of these sudden impacts. I haven't bent anything yet but it has certainly been shocking when it hits. Most of the time, the impact will cause the base plate to scrape and lift the car to the height to clear the obstacle.
I've attached a picture with a ruler in the view.
Great product for my 2014 Wrangler. Good materials, solid attachment to vehicle, and looks good. The e trailer installation video was great for assisting installation. Made the install much quicker and easier. The most difficult procedure for me was disconnecting the wiring harness on the back of the bumper. An old tack puller (or tool of similar design) would have been great for leveraging the pins out of their holes. Cutting the air dam was a slow process to ensure I didn't cut too much. A paper template to mark where to cut the air dam would make this process much simpler. Again, I can't emphasize enough how great the installation video was for making the steps easier.
Fast shipping
Etrailer was very easy to do business with and made it simple to ship my order directly to the RV shop that was going to install it. This was my first order from them, but I will definitely consider future purchases from them if I'm in need of something for my RV.
After comparing Demco, RoadMaster, and Blue Ox base plate costs, mounting procedures, etc for my 2012 Fiat Sport, I decided to go with RoadMaster (Kit #522013-1A) for two main reasons: 1) I had the tow bar and mount adapters from another product that were the same specs as the RoadMaster tow bar and adapters to attach to the base plate, and 2) no drilling or other modifications required to mount the base plates. Blue Ox (Kit #BX2800) required I buy their tow bar and other unique configuration adapters PLUS drill two half-inch holes on either side where the base plate mounted AND hammering flat the tips on the corners of the bumper bracket the frame where the base plate mounted. Blue Ox did provide better details on the removal of the facia and bolt removal and torquing actions required for the Fiat. My biggest challenge was the removal of the facia without damaging the clips or other damage to it. Once it was off, the action of removing the bumper core from the end of the frame rails and bolting on the base plate was slick! I took a little over 4 hours to do this, but it was because I wanted to do it right, without damage, and have the confidence I could tow without issues. (Not sure how sequence will show, but labeled the pictures as "Before," "Removal," "Installation," "Finished," and "Ready to Tow.")
This was the second base plate kit from etrailer that I have installed, the first being on our ‘03 Outback and this one on our new to us 2015 Subaru CrossTrek. As usual the response, shipping and delivery from etrailer was prompt and curious. They are my go to place for anything towing related.
Installation of this kit went well with only a few issues, most of which were related to our vehicle not the kit. I knew the car had been hit lightly on the LF corner, but could find nothing of concern body or frame wise when I looked the car over before buying it. Turns out the front bumper reinforcement had been tweaked a tad which made lining the bolt holes up with the holes in the base plates a tad challenging. This made the small angle brackets that go inside the frame heads tough to line up, but in the end it all fit. I did find that it was unnecessary to pull the washer reservoir or the left headlight to access the nut and washer for the long 1/2” bolt. You can easily reach and see the place from underneath after pulling the plastic encapsulation panel. When drilling that 1/2” hole be sure to angle the drill bit UP a tad otherwise you may end up having to grind a flat on the side of the large, thick washer as you can see in my picture from underneath. I used shrink wrap over the nut and bolt since there’s a wiring harness right against it. The picture of the baseplate differs a bit from the pictures so I guess they made some changes. All in all a great kit!
The Jeep project went very well everything fit great and worked well. I really love Roadmaster products and quality and your company is the best place to purchase them. I sold the Jeep and replaced it with a new 2019 Chevy Equinox 2.0 L AWD and just purchased and installed the following items from you and installed them, RM-156-25 & RM-156-75 Battery Charge Line Kit, RM-146-7 Flex Coil Kit, RM-523193-4 EZ4 Plate Kit, RM-88333 Custom Seat Adapter, RM-751489 Stop Light Switch Kit and a RM-98160 Second Vehicle Brake Kit w/brakeaway. All these parts were in stock and arrived quickly and normal with you people, I really enjoy the o-line vidios as I do all my own installs. Thank you so much for your great service.
I will attach pictures of my install, you will see how I was able to fab a bracket and attach it to the existing mount on the base plate to mount the brakeaway switch and the air connection for the brake system.
I also fabricated a tail light bar as I didn't want to use mag-lights or splice into the factory lights and bulbs installed into the lights would not work as the factory brake lights will come on when the brake system is applyed and the turn siginals would not be visable.
Thanks for all you do, I would and do recommend you people to everyone who needs your products. Rob
It looks easy to install. I haven’t yet. The brackets look awesome.
We towed our 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI 3000 miles last year, this is an ideal setup, discreet when not in use, solid, and easy to get on/off. Very please with the support I received from Roadmaster as one of the bolt was missing, was sent super quickly.
Not an easy install on a Trax but it is very well made and gives a clean look. I did customize by cutting down the 6 pin bracket supports to get it flush with front of the car.
The representative (Sarah) was very helpful and knowledgeable, the prices are very reasonable and all my items arrived on time. When I called with a question, she was very polite, friendly and genuinely sounded like she enjoyed her job. When I discovered one of the items I ordered wasn’t needed, getting help to return was hassle free. I would recommend etrailer to anyone that needs anything RV or trailer related. I will definitely do business with them again. I am impressed.
Install pretty easy. You will have to change directions of one bolt due to obstruction ( frame). Cannot torque a few of the bolts. These are the ones with wire attached.
Rock guard needed addition trimming from factory instructions.
Awesome delivery speed, and a well made base plate for my 2007 Element. Installation was a breeze (thanks to my son’s heated shop) and I had to do no cutting to make this fit. I had a Stowmaster tow bar that came with my RV and etrailer was able to steer me to the correct missing parts to make this a really affordable installation. Now to get out of this snow!
After ordering the wrong crossbar, etrailer sent the correct one for our Mini Cooper quickly. However I did have to modify most of the holes as the cross bar didn’t quite fit (but close). I had to drill the three main bolt holes to 11/16 so that the bar would go over the Mini’s 3 main bumper bolts on both sides. The two lower bolt holes (each side), needed to be drilled out 3 sizes larger to accommodate the 4 bolts that come with the kit. I had to drill out the Minis lower holes to better align with the crossbars lower holes. I would also like to note it being a pain in the knuckles to reach one of the three (each side) bolts to put the stock nuts on the bolt and then try and get them tight. (The main bolt pattern for the upper bumper is diamond shape, one up tow bolts lower. (The lower “inside” bolt on each side is the one that is hard to get to and tighten.) Sorry I didn’t get picks, I was in a rush to get the car back together. There’s an angle piece on the cross bar that blocks the hard to reach bolt, it would be helpful if that could be made more accessible to reach.
I’ve been purchasing products from ETrailer since 2005 and all the products I’ve purchased have been a great value. The products mentioned above installed perfectly and with the direct assistance from ETrailer everything fit as suggested. I will always interact with ETrailer as needs present themselves.
Fit and finish is great, the illustration for what you trim on the bumper isn't great but otherwise pretty easy install (I ended up measuring between the mounts on the draw bar and just trimmed accordingly)
Overall the installation was great, however the process of drilling 3 - 1/2" holes in that little bumper that has a Rockwell Hardness of about 60, seems to be a bit over the top.The instructions are spot on, delivery was great, the quality of product was accurate. I am a happy boy!
Replaced same part that was damaged in a crash. I had used my original one for close to ten years without issue. Fast shipping from etrailer.
The Base plate kit is well made and came with all the necessary hardware.Installation is relatively straight forward. I did have to enlarge two of the holes that didn't quite line up. But overall I'd recommend it.
Bolted right up. Installation should be done with bumper on, as you can't fit the ends through the louvers without some convincing. Works great so far. Was able to use a Stowmaster 5000 with it.
Installation was a bit trying. Ended up looking very clean and almost invisible.
Using the tow bar worked super easy and our motorhome hardly noticed the Mini Cooper back there.
Came quickly and is very high quality. Great directions/video from road master makes the installation step by step easy to follow.
Skill level is probably at the intermediate level depending on experience.
The #118-3 is a perfect fit on my 1995 Geo Tracker. When you pull off the removable arms you would never know they are there. The Quality is very good easy to put on all you have to do is drill 4 holes the tube on the base plate fits into the tube on the frame of the tracker and with the 2 bolts it is a solid fit. I was worried about the plate nut getting it inside of the frame but it went in easy when you put it over the frame tube and use a thin piece of metal to slide it in place. I’m very happy with it. I probably could of got it on without taking my bumper off but with only 4 bolts holding my bumper on it made it easier
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