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For years, this UFP-style surge brake actuator has been the gold standard for boat trailers. Its weld-on, low-profile design looks sleek on your trailer, and it comes with both electric and manual reverse lockouts. Made in the USA.
Features:
Specs:
Tech Tip: If you really just need to replace the inner member of your old actuator and you're confident that you can salvage the outer casing, you can purchase DX99FR instead.
If you're replacing your old actuator, you're probably looking at this one and thinking, yeah, that looks like mine alright, but doesn't UFP make these? The short answer is that Dexter bought out Unique Functional Parts (UFP) in 2013, changed the name, but kept the awesome design. Rest assured, this is the real deal and not some kind of knockoff.
Trigger latches on traditional couplers can be kind of a pain to work with sometimes.
For starters, you have to hold the latch up as you lower the coupler onto the hitch ball. Not to mention that the latch can stick out like a sore thumb, so it may get bent or broken by your tailgate or your bumper as you go to hitch up. That's more than just an inconvenience; when your coupler is out of commission, your trailer's not going anywhere with you.
The coupler on this UFP-style actuator negates all of that. Just slide the button on top with your thumb while you lift up the latch handle. Then, place the coupler over the center of your hitch ball and lower your trailer with your tongue jack.
When you can close the latch without forcing it, you'll hear a click. This sound tells you that the ball is seated firmly inside. Then, just re-insert the tethered safety pin, hook up your safety chains and your breakaway cable, and you'll be ready to tow.
Most surge brake actuators have either an electric or manual lockout, if they even have one at all. They don't let you pick one based on your towing setup, but this actuator does.
The solenoid for this electric reverse lockout is designed to tie into the reverse light circuit on your 5-pin, 6-pin, or 7-pole connector so that your disc brakes won't engage when your reverse lights come on. That said, if you have a 4-pin connector, or if you're unable to get the solenoid wired correctly for some reason, you won't get the full benefit from this automatic lockout.
Even if the solenoid is wired correctly, having a manual lockout option as a backup is great in the event that:
Activating the manual lockout is easy, just put the lockout pin in place as shown above. This will prevent the actuator from getting pushed in, which in turn keeps your brakes from activating while you're in reverse. Just don't forget to remove the pin when you're ready to pull forward again.
Quick Tip: To greatly reduce your chances of losing this pin, you might want to include it with your boat keys, tackle box, or something else you can't live without for a day on the water. Or, if you're towing with a different vehicle than you normally do, add "put manual lockout pin in glovebox" to your pre-trip checklist.
When you slow to a stop as you're towing, momentum pushes your trailer toward the rear of your vehicle. When this happens, the surge brake actuator compresses the master cylinder inside, which forces it to push hydraulic fluid out to your brake lines, ultimately engaging your trailer brakes. When you start moving again, the actuator will telescope back out, stopping the flow of fluid back to the brakes and allowing your trailer's wheels to start rolling again.
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hello everybody, this is Jeff at etrailer.com. Today, I'm gonna take a look at this Dexter DX7.5L A-60 weld-on disc brake actuator with the electric reverse lockout for a two-inch hitch ball, has a 7,500 pound weight capacity. Now, you're gonna use this actuator to synchronize your trailer brakes with your tow vehicle brakes. It is a hydraulic actuator so it will activate your trailer brakes when the tow vehicle slows or stops. So basically, what happens is when you apply the brakes in your tow vehicle, deceleration is gonna occur and the momentum's gonna push your trailer towards the rear of your vehicle. So with this surge brake system, this actuator is then triggered as your trailer moves forward while the tow vehicle slows down.
Basically, the inner slide of this actuator is gonna telescope back, applies force to the master cylinder in the back here, which internal supply the necessary hydraulic pressure to engage your trailer's brakes. On the front here, you notice it's a low profile coupler latch, so it ensures easy, secure connection. Doesn't have a tall trigger latch or anything that could get bent or broken. It's very low profile. So if anything goes over it, it'll ride right over and not cause any damage.
And it is an over center latch mechanism. So it's only gonna engage when the actuator is fully seated on a two-inch hitch ball. And just to show you what we're talking about, it includes this pin right here that secures the ball in the socket once it's installed. Now, you can take the pin out and actually even put a coupler lock through there if you want extra security. Coupler locks, we do sell separately.
But I just wanna demonstrate how this installs. So I happen to pull out a two-inch diameter hitch ball right here. So again, just to open it, just slide this pin out. And then up here at the top, there's a little round, oval-shaped thing with a cutout. You just push that over.
And when you do that, it'll release the latch and it flips in the open position. Now, you're ready to go down over the ball just like that. And it connects over the ball. And then to close it, all you have to do is just slam it shut and it'll automatically lock in place. And then again, or just to show you for security, you want to take this pin, slide it through that hole all the way through. And once you get it all the way through, that'll keep that ball locked into place 'cause now you can even see if something moves this over, it's not gonna open it enough to dislodge or disconnect it. Basically, it's gonna keep it connected. All you have to do is just push down on that. And just like that, it'll be locked into place. And then to remove it, which we'll do, slide your pin out, slide this over to open it. And then with it open, all you have to do is lift it up over the ball and you're ready to go. So it's very easy install, very easy disconnect. Right our pin back through there. Now, also it does include this manual lockout. Basically, this one will come with a reversal solenoid on the back here that if you connect it to your trailer connector, when you go into reverse, it'll automatically keep it from putting the brakes on when you're going in reverse. If you don't have a trailer connector, you don't wanna use that solenoid, it does even have a manual option. And what the manual lockout does is you just slide it in behind that pin like that and it'll keep that inner slide from moving back. So when you go into reverse, this manual lockout will keep it from applying the pressure. Now, it does include this breakaway cable, right here you can see with the S hook on it. Now this is required by law 'cause it does prevent a trailer runaway situation. Basically, what you'll do with this is when you hook up to your tow vehicle, you'll hook this hook to your tow vehicle also. And then if by chance this becomes disconnected from the hitch ball, it's gonna pull this cable, which when it does that, it's gonna activates the master cylinder in the back here to apply pressure, to apply the brakes. So it prevents the trailer runaway situation. And again, it is required by law. Now the master cylinder, which is buried back here inside here, it is constructed of aluminum rather than plastic or steel. Gives you increased strength and corrosion resistance. Now, we mentioned earlier that this model here does include an electric reverse lockout solenoid on the back here, and that'll let you back up without actuating your trailer brakes. The solenoid, you can see the wires there, they'll connect to your trailer connector and it'll activate automatically when you shift into reverse. And as we mentioned, if you don't use the solenoid, you can use the manual lockout. Now, this does have a nice black prime finish to it. It's very easy to weld and paint. It is a weld-on installation. It is designed to fit a three-inch wide channel tongue trailer. And again, the application, this will fit trailers with hydraulic disc brakes, a ball size fits two-inch diameter, weight capacity of 7,500 pounds, and a tongue weight of 750 pounds. Now, if you do have any additional questions regarding this part or any other item that we carry, please feel free to reach out to us so that we can help you get all of your questions answered. But that's gonna do it for a look at this Dexter DX7.5L A-60 weld-on disc brake actuator with the electric lockout for a two-inch hitch ball.
Works great- no issues
Great product, fast shipping. E trailer has everything you need. Thanks
Received the brake actuator very fast, and it appears to be very well made. I have not as yet had time to weld it to the swing-away connection, but I don't think it will be a problem.
Picture lead me to assume the mechanical lock out tab also was provided but did not come with package. Other than that I got exactly what I was looking for. Quality product
Most smooth surge brake I’ve ever had. Love it! Almost don’t feel the boat behind the truck. Had to cut up and modify a trailer to fit my boat due to an accident… strainer supplied plenty of the parts to take my dumpy trailer to a beauty!
Great service, Adam was a lot of help. I needed the inner part of the actuator because I have a swing away tongue. This unit was just what I needed. The weather finally got better today so gave it a road test and work great. ????
Info for this part was:
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Lazer S.
1/13/2026
Glad to hear Adam got you all squared away, Fred! I will let him know everything went off without a hitch! ^___^ What kind of boat are you carrying?