Most Popular Fishing Kayak for 2003 Nissan Murano

The product seems great but I have not figured out how to get it safely attached to my bars. I have an Agricover Adarac on the bed of my truck and the crossbars are 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 inches square. I thought this would work well since it's for up to 3-1/2 x 1-11/16" crossbars, but it isn't secure on these. I'm going to try and figure out an alternate method for attachment though. Thule Hull-a-port Pro's are the perfect (mounting) solution but don't seem to be made any longer.

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Great product and great customer service! Very easy to install, but I highly recommend to watch the installation video first. We used typical black office clips to clip the excess straps down since they came untangled when driving. Also, I recommend to purchase locks for the racks since we are concerned someone may steal them because they are so easy to take on and off.

I put the rollers on a strong arm loader it Works great, the loader fits a 2in receiver it pulls backwards at a 45 degree angle and it is springs loaded you put the kayak onto it then go to the back of the kayak push forward and the kayak is at a 45 degree angle in the air then you push it's on the rollers and stop when you get where you want it let it down gently a d that's it ,take it off in reverse thanks to the wheels it makes it very easy

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These Handrolls were a replacement for ones about 30 years old which worked great but the rubber/plastic was degraded by the sun and the degraded plastic would get on the kayaks. The wheels of the new HandRolls do not turn well, even with an overabundance of Silicon lubricant sprayed inside. They worked very poorly in loading my kayaks. They will soon join their brethren in the dumpster.

've previously used the Yakima Kayak Stacker (old style), which worked fine but I always worried the straps would slip off the hook at the top while I was loading boats. They also didn't fold down, so had to be removed after use unless you wanted to look odd and cause a whistle while you drove down the road. They didn't have a universal attachment option, requiring adapters depending on the style and make of your crossbars. More recently I got the Thule "The Stacker", which is a superior solution. You thread the strap through a closed loop at the top, so you don't worry about straps slipping off while you're loading boats. They fold down after use and have a universal style attachment that fits around most styles and makes of crossbars. Good stuff. I really like the straps that come with these, as there is a rubber cover that slips over the metal cam buckle to protect your car's paint while you're tossing the strap over your boats to strap everything in. In order to shuttle our boats for river trips, we needed stackers to fit on both our cars, so it was time for another set. I had never heard of Rhino Rack before, but the lower price than Thile caught my eye, so I read about them and decided to give them a try. The Rhino Rack Nautical Stack used a closed loop at the top, which I liked better than the Yakima or Malone options, and came with the hardware necessary to install them into the C-channel of my Malone aero crossbars, which I wanted to try. I remember that with the Malone stacker, you had to buy the C-channel mount hardware separately. I really like the Rhino Rack Nautical Stack. They are a single post design, unlike the loop style of the Thule "The Stacker". I don't know if this cuts down on vortex drag, but it definitely saves you a couple horizontal inches up where the boats stack. The Rhino Rack Nautical Stack has textured rubber strips on either side of the post, which I believe is intended to cut down on vortex drag, but is also quite helpful in that boats tend to slip much less when you're just leaning them up against the post as you load up before you strap them. That's smart. The Rhino Rack Nautical Stack feels really solid. The mechanism for folding them down and locking them upright is easy to use and feels solid. Installation instructions were good. I tried to install into the C-channels without removing the rubber tubing in my Malone aero crossbars, but couldn't get the little squares to slide into the slots with the rubber tubing in place, so had to cut the tubing, slide the Nautical Stacks into place, then cut down some of the tubing I had removed and replace it in the remaining unfilled crossbar slot. That's not a knock on the Nautical Stack; just a tip in case you're trying to do the same kind of install I did. The one area in which I was less impressed was the tie-down straps that come with this kit. The metal cam buckles have no covering at all, so I'll probably still use my old Yakima and Thule straps instead and use these as backups. But overall, I think these are going to work at least as well, if not better, than the Thule option, and for quite a bit less money.

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So much better than the 'C-shape' kayak holders. These things allow you to fit inside a garage, and add up to four kayaks. Very easy to use.

Brought home a new kayak yesterday using this J cradle for the first time. Easy to set up and load. Two complaints: not impressed with the strap buckles - had to tie knots to secure. And the 3-inch bolts weren’t long enough to easily attach the cradle to my Rhino Rack crossbars, so I had to replace them. Also got my finger pinched pretty good adjusting the cradle knobs - my fault for not being more careful, but just saying …

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Great product for the price - The cradles were very easy to mount (and lay flat once folded). The videos were helpful in showing how to set the straps in the most efficient way. I test-drove my car today with my fishing kayak on top on a 80-mile round trip (a mix of freeway, country road and dirt tracks). The kayak was perfectly still, no particular wind noise and I was able to muscle to kayak up the roof and take it down on my own (it's a 52 lbs boat). I really recommend that product and I'm glad I went for J-Style cradles!

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The keys are an issue (wish they were metal), but everything else is great! I go sunrise kayaking only and hate putting straps on with cold hands at 3:30 in the morning. I have a Nissan Pathfinder and was able to put this on with another set of Malone J-hooks so that I can have a second kayak when I go with someone. Once the fear subsides of it possibly falling off, you realize how quick and easy this thing is to use. It takes me 1 minute instead of 9-18 minutes to get my kayak up and secure. I have tested it at 75mph without any jiggling or issues. I sat on this in my shopping cart forever and finally pulled the trigger. If you kayak at least 10 times a year or are going at high speeds for extended periods of time in warm weather, totally worth it. If not, well, there are cheaper options out there.

Rec'd earlier this week, so today i will install. The item was obviously a return. The logos are nearly scratched off in places, all the items were loosely thrown in the box, and the 10mm wrench and hex key were missing. i think everything else is there. The keys should be a bright color instead of black, some spray paint will fix that. Anyhoo, i am a little disappointed.

The product itself I would give 5 stars, but it took considerable effort before I could get it installed and tried out. The first obstacle I ran into is that there were no screws included. After opening the box I discovered this, read through the manual, looked at the product listing on etrailer's website, and on Thule's website. I did not see any notice that screw were not included. Finally I did see on one end of the box such a notice, and etrailer's customer service confirmed this to be the case. The second obstacle was how to install the product in my garage. The instructions were of marginal help. They are mostly devoid of words, but rather use pictures to instruct. Once I had a good idea of how all the parts were to fit together and be mounted I discovered my garage ceiling would not accommodate the parts. The ceiling rafters are installed on end, from one side of the garage to the other, and thus not wide enough for the screw holes in the pulleys or center rod mounting brackets. I improvised by installing in the garage attic two 2x8 boards perpendicular to the rafters, then three 2x4 boards snug under the garage ceiling, attached to the 2x8s by way of two 3/8 x 3.5" hex bolts on either end of the 2x4s. The 2x4s were 10', cut in half to allow room for the TH572 mounting hardware between the bolts. With appropriate structure in place (a 12-hour one man job), I started on installing the product. I used eight 1/4 x 1.5" lag screws to attach the pulleys to the 2x4s, and six #10 1.5" wood screws for the center rod mounting brackets. This part of the job took only about an hour... maybe two... it was late. Some suggestions: - make sure your garage can hand the load of the box (What you see in most attics are designed to hold the roof, not have stuff suspended from them -- I got lucky and had access to reinforced headers in the right places) - make sure your garage door can still open with whatever you are storing in place - make sure you can get your car in position under the load (rooftop box, kayak, etc) where everything is installed - make sure you can get your car out of the garage with the load attached So, my main complaints with this product are two: no screws, and minimal instructions. But with a little determination and some help from etrailer customer support, I was able to get the job done. Now I need to find someone who can make my garage door opening taller.

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Overall I give this Thule Multilift Cargo Lift a five star rating; however installing this device takes some effort and skill. Maybe more effort and skill than the typical DYI'er can provide. The instructions provided do not have any words or dimensions, only pictures. Other than following the routing of the rope through the pullies it didn't provide me any benefit. Also, my system did not come with any screws or bolts. For me that was not a big deal as I have plenty of hardware I can use. There is one center bracket and four pullies to install. The spacing does not line up with typical dimensions so I had to improvise to get the Multilift installed. My garage ceiling has joist spacing that is 16" on center. That is typical, although some may have 24" on center spacing. Either way the spacing for the screws to secure the various components does not match. I guess you could use toggle bolts to hold the components to the ceiling sheetrock but I didn't trust that idea. What I did was to span my ceiling joists with 1"x4" wood and then attach the components to them. The kit comes with a template so getting the actual components set up on the 1"x4" wood strips was simple enough. Once all the components are installed then the rope is routed through the pullies. As you can see in the pictures I had a close clearance between the roof box and my roll-up garage door. I think it is about 2". Since I don't have a tall roll-up garage door I cannot drive my car in or out with the roof box installed. That didn't matter to me since my only goal was to store the roof box out of harms way. My last comment is that it takes two people to lift the roof box up and get the Multilift ropes in place. I tried to do it by myself but that did not work. I do like this Thule Multilift but it took some effort to install it. I really like the way it is raised and lowered by turning a mechanism with a handle. There is a less expensive lift sold on the internet but it did not use as many pullies to raise and lower the roof box and it relied on a rope to lift and lower it.

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