Troubleshooting No Power at 7-Way Connector on 2010 Honda Ridgeline

Question

Question:

Installed Tekonsha p3 on 2010 Honda Ridgeline. Powers up, and senses trailer, but no power to any of the contacts at trailer connector. Tried black contact, signals, lights, and brake lights no power. I installed new fuses in fuse box drivers side under hood. The white wire at trailer connector tested as a good ground. I used the harness from Tekonsha for connection from controller to plug under dash above e-brake made for Honda. I bought the sub wire harness from Honda which has the 7 pin connector and plug to pre-wired connector at other end. What am I missing? Is there a relay or another fuse?

asked by: Richard L

0

Expert Reply:

Since you don't have any kind of power at your 7-way and you installed the harness you got from Honda I would assume it is a missing fuse/relay or two. I'm assuming what you installed was the # 118253 which should come with all of the fuses and relays required to activate the functions on your Ridgeline.

I would double check all of the fuses and relays you installed and make sure they are correct. I would also unplug any wiring connections and plug them back in to make sure they're properly seated. If everything is in the right place and none are missing it is probably a more serious issue that would require a mechanic.

I attached the instructions below along with an installation video for your reference.

expert reply by: Robin H

0

Richard L.

5/8/2024

Robin. This is follow up from earlier meessage. Took your advice and checked fuses. I did not have relays installed. I acquired relays and now have them installed. Now have partial power at 7 way outlet at back of truck. Have power to one contact with truck ignition on, power to another with headlights on, and power at another with brake pedal depressed. No power with turn signals, no power at any contact with engine an all lights turned off. I noticed the kit that you sell for Ridgeline has a power converter. I don't have one installed. If needed for full functioning I need to acquire one. Do you sell one without buying entire kit? Thank you for your help. Let me know your thoughts. Richard Lindgren

Reply

Robin H.

5/9/2024

@RichardL this particular powered converter is only available with the full # 118253. Since your vehicle has a 3 wire system the brake and turn signals need to be combined for the 2 wire system on your trailer. Without it it would make sense that your turn signals aren't working. I would try to return the other wiring harness if possible to get the complete Tekonsha one.

Reply

Answer 1

To install the Tow Ready #118253 on your 2010 Ridgeline, first find the relay block. The relay block is located under the dash above where the driver's left knee would be, and the fuses install in the subfuse box located on the firewall in the…

view full answer...

Answer 2

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

view full answer...

Answer 3

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

view full answer...

Answer 4

Actually, the P3 now has the upgraded axis accelerometer like the P2. The Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller #90195, will work with both electric over hydraulic brakes on the trailer as well as electric brakes. It has a menu option on the display…

view full answer...

Answer 5

The OEM prep package consists of 4 "pucks" in the bed of the truck that will allow you to drop in puck style hitches for easy installation and removal, that gives you a completely clear bed when not in use. The B&W Companion OEM 5th…

view full answer...

Answer 6

If you just need a 4-pin to 7-pin trailer wiring adapter, then you can use part #C57672. This will plug into the 4-pin trailer connector on your brother's vehicle and give him the 7-pin socket for the trailer. Keep in mind, this will only give…

view full answer...

Answer 7

The best brake controller option to go with is one that activates the brakes proportionally instead of time delayed. A proportional brake controller will activate the trailer brakes at the same time and with the same intensity as the tow vehicle…

view full answer...

Answer 8

Hey Tim, The ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness #119250KIT is compatible with LED lights and has been used as a go to for years for people who have LED trailer lights. The light function is supposed send a tiny bit of voltage from the…

view full answer...

Answer 9

Hey John, thanks for reaching out! If the 4-Way on your 1996 Ford F-150 is from the factory then the only wire splicing you'll need to do is with the Adapter #37185, which plugs into your 4-Way and then you'll connect the rest of the wires to…

view full answer...

Answer 10

Hi Mike! Do you want a completely hidden hitch or one where only the receiver is visible? The Curt #C64NR you looked at has a concealed cross tube so you will only see the receiver hanging down at the rear. The Hidden Hitch by Draw-Tite #DT76GR will…

view full answer...

Answer 11

You will have to go with a sliding hitch to allow the trailer to make tight turns. For a trailer 8 feet wide the only bed length that's going to allow 90 degree turns without a slider is a stationary hitch. That being said you have two options.…

view full answer...

Answer 12

In order to determine the torque rating for the lug nuts on your trailer you will need to know check out the chart I attached that shows all of the torque specs for all the trailer lugs available based on stud size, wheel material and wheel size.

view full answer...

Troubleshooting No Power at 7-Way Connector on 2010 Honda Ridgeline

Product Page this Question was Asked From

Featured Help Information

Miscellaneous Media

Continue Researching