Running your own 12V power wire for the 7-Way on your 2021 Ford Explorer would give it the constant 12V power that the Curt Echo # C51180 needs, but I'm pretty sure we can remedy this problem without you having to splice into the wiring on your new vehicle.
It sounds like your Explorer has the same wiring setup as the new Ford pickups (which makes sense) where the vehicle won't sent power back to the 7-Way until it senses a load. Since the Echo needs power to pair to your phone you will... view full answer...
Any powered landing gear or powered tongue jack will draw less power as it legs descend down toward the ground and much more as soon as they make contact and encounter resistance. This is a normal occurrence. In the same way, any jack - even a manual hand-crank type - requires less power (or force) when lowering the trailer than when lifting it.
The cause for your powered landing gear losing steam could be any of several possibilities. These include the trailer's battery not being rated... view full answer...
This Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness for Factory Tow Package - 7-Way Trailer Connector # 118272 harness is designed to be used with vehicles that already have a factory tow package. If you don't have that factory tow package, it may not fit. If you don't have the tow package, I recommend you use the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118540. If you do have the factory tow package, it should install to the connection located beneath the vehicle behind... view full answer...
If the Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring, # 118345, was working on your 1997 Ford Explorer but then suddenly stopped working, the first thing I would check is the fuse that came with the converter. The power wire should be connected to the vehicle battery via the fuse and fuse holder. If you find that fuse is blown you will need to replace it.
However, if there was a short on the trailer wiring, trailer side, or corrosion in the connectors on either side, it could blow the fuse again.
Loss... view full answer...
Your 1997 Ford Explorer has a 3 wire system and requires a powered converter. The converter from the auto parts store has taillight, turn, and brake functions and a 5th wire for ground. A converter for your vehicle requires a direct connection to the vehicle battery to protect your vehicles sensitive wiring. Bypassing the modulite is not recommended for this reason. If the modulite is damaged, there are no internal serviceable parts so a replacement is the best option.
If your Explorer... view full answer...
For the Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Connector # 90885, the controller should first read n.c. for 15 seconds before changing to 2 dots with no letters, _._. When the brake controller reads 2 dots with no letters, it is an indication that the brake controller does not have a connection with the trailer. I have attached a cutting from the installation instructions explaining the displays. The instructions are also linked for you.
I confirmed with my contact at Tekonsha that the only meaning... view full answer...
Your trailer's disc brakes will certainly warm up with use but the type of dragging and heat you're describing is definitely not normal. When this type of problem occurs it's typically the result of a bad brake caliper on one or more of the assemblies.
I recommend removing the caliper and rotor and taking the pads out from the caliper for inspection. If you find they are in need of replacement I will be happy to make a specific recommendation if you can tell me the brand and weight capacity... view full answer...
We personally have not heard of this, but I spoke to my contact at Curt and he had a couple ideas for what could have been going on. First he thought that maybe you are lining up your hitch to the wrong holes, and this would explain why the second set of installation holes do not line up.
Second he thought that maybe you have a very early model 2006 Ford Explorer and you would actually need the Curt hitch part # C13550 and not the # 13112 that you have.
The easiest way for you to tell... view full answer...
The Curt Echo Wireless Brake Controller # C51180 has a setting in the app that will prevent the brakes from being applied when the hazard lights are flashing. If you disable the hazard light braking function in the app and it continues to activate then you could have some debris on the either the 7-way cable or port that's allowing the electrical signal to bleed over to the other pin and just needs to be cleaned off. view full answer...
If you are only having problems with one light, you can check to see if you have a ground problem on your trailer that is hooked up to your 2013 Ford Explorer. You want to make sure that the ground wire (usually white) on the trailer connector is securely attached to the trailer frame. If you have a folding trailer tongue, attach the ground connection to the trailer frame, behind the tongue hinge. Check the ground area for any corrosion or paint, or dirt build up. If any is present, clean... view full answer...
I wasn't able to find your order number so I'm not sure what harness you purchased from us specifically for your 2015 Ford Explorer, but if it was the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118540, and you didn't have the two connectors, you would only need to plug it in to the connector shown in the accompanying photo I added. This is from the linked video install of this harness on a 2015 Explorer. If you did this and the connectors matched up but you still don't have power there are a number... view full answer...
I would start out by testing the vehicle wiring connector. Disconnect the trailer and use a circuit tester, like part # 3808, to test the 4 way wiring on the Explorer or Expedition. You should see an exposed male connection point that is the ground circuit. Next to the exposed terminal there is a female connection that is the taillight circuit. Next to that is the left turn and brake circuit. Finally on the far side is the right turn and brake circuit. If all of the circuits are working... view full answer...
Installing a hitch, like # 76034, on a 2017 Ford Explorer will still allow you to use your auto lift gate. The hitch will only block some of the sensors that are used in the auto lift system.
We have installed hitches on Explorers with this option and found that you will have to sweep your foot on either side of the hitch opening. view full answer...
Though we will not have factory wiring diagrams, I am pretty sure I know what is going on and this should be a quick and easy fix. In the passenger compartment fuse box of your 2001 Ford Explorer, there should be a 15A in position 30. This port will handle the park lamp / trailer tow relay and should be all you need to get everything up and running properly.
However, in the off chance this does not get you power to the running lamps, let me know and we can try a few other things. view full answer...
The P2 # 90885 has not been around for 15 years. You might have the original Prodigy # 90185. The sure way to know is the display. If the display is blue, its a P2. If the display is red, it is a Prodigy.
There are a lot of moving parts in electric drum brakes. They could get stuck if the return springs are bound up or corroded or if something needs some lubrication.
Nine times out of ten, it is a brake issue. But it could be electrical further back than the brake controller. The first... view full answer...
Thank you for the photo of your 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer's trailer wiring harness cap.
Between the age of the plastic material and the exposure to road grime (that might be trapped in the gaps, making cap removal as difficult as possible) I am not too surprised you're finding it tough to get the cap off. Add the fact that there appears to be no way to get a hand around it AND at the same time press the cap release (red arrow) and I can feel your pain.
Here is my thinking. There probably... view full answer...
I took a look at the owner's manual and there are no other relays or fuses that would cause the issue you are having; I would start just by verifying that the fuse in location 7 is correctly rated at 15 amps. Also make sure you test the right turn/brake wire going in to your connector; if there is no signal that means the issue is with the vehicle wiring and it is likely going to be a crimped, broken or otherwise damaged wire that you will need to locate and fix accordingly. view full answer...
Thank you for your purchase from etrailer for your 2017 Ford Explorer of the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118540.
The only reason I can think of why this may have happened is if you have plugged the harness into the wrong plug . On some models there is both a black and a gray factory connector, and you need to make sure you plugged it into the black connector.
I have added a link below to a video install on a '17 Explorer for you as well. view full answer...
There is not a relay for the trailer parking lights according to your owners manual.. Relay 3 is for the park lights of your vehicle (but not trailer park lights) and fuse #25 is a parking light and trailer brake fuse with 15A that is located under your dash to the left of the steering wheel. If that fuse is good, then you have a short somewhere before your trailer connector. I recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test the wire as you trace it for power to find the short. view full answer...
You will want to make sure the 12v pin of your 7-way is getting power using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. This is the 1 o'clock pin position on your truck side connector. That pin when it has power should allow the Curt Echo # C51180 to have the LED light up.
I looked up your owners manual and it looks like fuse 57 is a 30 Amp fuse. view full answer...
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