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# 1
Demco Stay-IN-Play Duo Flat Tow Brake System for RVs w/ Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional
I mounted this in a 2014 Chevy Spark. Finding a spot for the main control unit was interesting, but I found a video for a 2017 Spark that I could use. I did have to drill an extra hole in the mounting flange and car. I haven't taken it on a trip as of this time, but a tow around the block indicated it was working. One note, watch about placing the LED indicator behind the tinted part of the toad window. It makes it harder to see from the camper camera.
I installed the Stay n play on a 2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. I pull it with a Diesel Sprinter, and braking control is very important to me. Previously I used a Brake Buddy. The Demco system is a world of difference. The proportional braking, simplicity of design, ease of engagement/disengagement, and reliability have provided an improved sense of confidence and security when flat towing. Installation was a challenge but is well described in instructions and videos.
# 2
Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Flat Tow Brake System - Proportional
1996 Ford F-250 and F-350So I never used mine. This is for those trying to decide if they need one. I tow an F250 with a 43’ tag axle, with an 8.9l Cummings. Yes I can feel the truck back there but I have never had the need for additional braking. Crossing the Snoqualmie pass on I-90 or driving through the cascades, I have no problems slowing with the engine brake. I have a big rig and tow a big truck so if this is your set up I’d give it a shot before committing to such an expensive item that I never use. I’m sure smaller rigs pulling larger trucks will benefit from a device like this.
Ordering was easy. Delivered very promptly. Actually cheaper then what the manufacturer sells it for. Live near manufacturer and having them install all my flat towing components this month. Great service Etrailer!!
# 3
Roadmaster BrakeMaster for RVs w/ Air or Air-Over-Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional
JeepThis braking system does what it's suppose to do, smooth proportional braking between motorhome air brakes and the tow vehicle. The only reason I did not rate at 5 stars is that there is a slight misalignment of air cylinder mounting bracket and 2022 Jeep Gladiator brake pedal.
The install on my Ford Maverick is clean and functional, so this is more of a customer service review... excellent customer service! During the 4-day towing set-up install, the forecast was for freezing temps and my rig was not winterized. I called in mid panic and the motorhome was moved indoors. A few months after using the tow set-up, a minor problem developed. I called and the CSR apologized and said, I can see how that might be frustrating, and a replacement cable (slightly longer) was sent free of charge.
# 4
Demco Air Force One Flat Tow Brake System for RVs w/ Air Brakes - Proportional
I wouldn't use anything else! Once this system is installed it's literally plug-and-play. Nothing to move or install into the car, each time you tow. Just plug it into the coach's air break system and you're done. Install video from etrailer made it even easier to complete. You do need a bit of mechanical guidance/assistance as you're connecting to both your vehicles and coaches breaking system but it has worked flawlessly for over 11,000 miles and in some pretty intense traffic.
AF1 is amazing so far. I did the installation by myself. I have a 2014 Honda CR-V and bought it for towing. Watching the video helped me through it. The car installation portion was pretty straight forward. The video is better than the instructions overall, but I read through the entire instructions before beginning. I was able to install the RV tank without putting the rig on a lift. Depending on how big you are and flexibility, it can be done with the RV on the ground...it just takes longer. Also, I would recommend knowing where you are going to mount your RV tank. I mounted the tank near the rear and didn’t have enough brake tube after doing the car. Picked up an extra 20 ft at Autozone or order the tube with etrailer. The customer service center is very helpful too. Many thanks to Mariah for the outstanding assistance. Finally, I would say that if you order the brackets to mount the emergency brake away for your car, you may have to cut them down with a grinder. It is so much nicer not putting the brake buddy in the car now. Looking forward to enjoying it on trips. I drove the rig about 20 miles yesterday, and the light came on and I honestly couldn’t tell the car was back there other than looking in the video and seeing the light on the car during braking. Highly recommend this unit.
# 5
Roadmaster InvisiBrake Flat Tow Brake System - Preset
The braking system and the lights are working, one year after I bought them. However, I am towing a 2016 Keep Patriot, and about 2_500 miles after install, the system started making an annoying clicking noise when I enter the Patriot, which stops after about 10 seconds and then starts up again, usually a minute or so later, for another 10 or 15 seconds. etrailer first said that they had never heard of.such a thing, then said that there are otherwise comments for Keep Patriot owners on forums. Still have no.fix. Also, at first I did not know that to store the tow bar, it must be pulled up so that the post fitting can moe to the position where it fits into the hole.in the smaii yellow bracket, which works well when used correctly. And store the coiled.wide in your tower vehicle.to prevent corrosion which will interfere with its function.
Invisibrake on a 2014 Honda CRV I’ve been a carpenter all my life and recently finished building a custom car. After Watching the etrailer video (multiple times) it appeared to be a fairly simple installation, not so much, as getting up under the dash is very tight, mounting locations and access points are different and not much working room under dash. 1. It appears the length of the cable and air cylinder are shorter than when the video was made, so an alternate location for the cable clamp is needed. The cable direction needed to be at a 90’ angle to the pedal. . Removing all the carpet and insulation was a PIA to get a direct connection to metal. The cylinder mounted a few inches closer than the video showed and I used two clamps to attach it. The mounting point on the cable clamp ending up being behind the wheel well, so I used a couple of stainless steel bolts for attachment. 2. The hole location into the firewall was very difficult to get to. I was only able to drill a 5/8” hole. I couldn’t get my step bit in there and the brake lines are on the outside and didn’t want to risk damaging them. I just ran the power wires and vacuum line through this hole. I drilled another 3/4” hole in the floor at the back of the cylinder. I ran the plug for brake away and the lighting wires under the body and followed the lighting wires from the back to front. Covering all wires in a plastic loom 3. The plastic molding pieces required some trimming to fit the new wires and cylinder. 4. The video shows the box mounting directly though the removable carpet mat. (Not a good thing) I removed the mat prior to install and will have to modify it to reinstall. 5. All the wiring in the engine compartment and the plug was fairly straight forward and simple. It all appear to work as it should. Testing seemed to work good. I recommend making a new installation video. When I ordered it, the Amazon price was lower and etrailer couldn’t match the pricing. Two weeks later the pricing dropped to match the amazon price ( lower by $150). Sad face.. 2014 CRV Baseplate -Roadmaster 521567-5 The installation was fairly simple and the video explained it well. The bumper and grille were fairly difficult to remove and expect to break some of the clips. ( new yellow ones can be purchased on Amazon) . I would wait to replace the grille until all the plug wiring is complete. Just hind site. 2014 Honda CRV Brake switch relay. -Roadmaster 88400 Relay switch are really simple to install, but the location of the brake switch and the small wires made it really difficult. But it works as it should
# 6
Brake Buddy Stealth Supplemental Braking System - Proportional
I am a proficient DIYer (and was an auto mechanic many years ago). The installation took a lot of time - perhaps 8-10 hours for the brake controller. The most special tool needed was a rotary cutter (e.g., a Dremel tool). A cordless impact driver was also very helpful, especially with the self tapping screws. Getting the pully in the perfect position under the brake pedal took some trial-and-error to get perfect. Also, the included bolts for the brake pedal bracket where too short to accommodate the width of the brake lever - easily remedied with slightly longer standard bolts. Be very mindful of what is on the other side of the sheet metal you are planning to drill into. The brake supplemental vacuum system was a bit of a challenge, as the instructions are very vague regarding how to mount, and the space I had to work with was surprisingly tight. I ended up creating a mount on the inside front fender, and bolting the pump to that. Also, tapping into the vacuum lines took a couple of tries to get a leak-free connection. Think ahead about this, and be prepared to get a few small parts like hose clamps or right-angle hose connectors. This would be a potential consideration for any vacuum boost added on any vacuum power-assist application with any controller. I mounted the Brakebuddy main unit under the rear seat - that was a perfect location, and much better than the often suggested location under the driver's seat. I was very pleased with the installation result. I paired this with a Nighthawk tow bar. Be warned that the tow bar's included cable will not be compatible with the Stealth, as the Brakebuddy uses a proprietary connection at the towed vehicle. The upside of this proprietary connector is that all connections are build in, including the brake away cable and the battery charging line. (I modified the Nighthawk by replacing the included cable with a 4-pin cable to power the lighting system on the bar. This is just for extra safety and cool looks - I could have just not used the tow bar's included cable). With 1,200 miles of towing behind us, I can say I am very pleased with the performance. I rarely notice any difference in braking effort or effectiveness - which is a big advantage for a proportional system. My favorite feature is the ease and speed of connecting or disconnecting the towed vehicle. I'd give this a 4.5 stars out of five if I could, because I did need to add a few parts and make a couple trips to the hardware store to complete the installation. However, the excellent performance and ease of use once installed more than makes up for the inconvenience during initial installation. Special appreciation to the people at eTrailer, especially Nicole T, who provided support and guidance from pre-sales to installation. Also, I called Brakebuddy's support line with a concern, and they immediately picked up the line, addressed my question, and offered to immediately ship any parts if needed.
I choose the Brake Buddy Stealth for my 2021 Jeep Wrangler because I wanted a “stay in place” brake system and felt it would be a clean looking installation. I finished the toad side of the installation today and thought I’d leave some notes on what turned out to be a bigger project than I’d anticipated. Again, this is my experience on the 2021 Jeep Wrangler 2-door. Your experience on other vehicles may vary. I started this install after installing a Demco Tabless Base Plate. Right out of the blocks, there’s really no convenient location to mount the cable connector to the Demco baseplate. I chose to mount it to under side of the bumper on the driver’s side. To provide clearance and a route for the wires, I had to cut a notch into the plastic air dam. I used one of the already screw screw holes and used self tapping screws in the other three locations. For added strength I epoxied the connector to the bumper as well. Since the bumper would be unremovable if the connector were hardwired, I added a waterproof connector. The kit is stingy with wire lengths, so I substituted my own wire. The Stealth unit itself i mounted beneath the driver’s seat. Don’t be fooled into believing there is clearance when testing with the driver’s seat positioned for rear seat access. Once the seat is returned to normal operation it lowers a bit and the box keeps the seat from being move forehand aft. I solved the problem by installing 5/8” thick nylon washers under the rear end of the seat slides. I also cut away a bit of the carpet under the front, inboard corner of the box. You will need to remove the driver’s seat in order to attach the front screws of the box. Be sure to disconnect and isolate the neutral battery terminals to prevent inadvertent air bag discharge. After removing the interior trim from the A-pillar, the door sill, and the driver side foot well, The wiring and cable tucked nicely away along with the OEM wiring and wiring for my taillights. I mounted the pulley horizontally behind the brake pedal. Installing the vacuum pump was my biggest worry and challenge. Instructions are to zip tie it “somewhere”. That seemed pretty casual for a safety system. I chose, instead, to fabricate an aluminum bracket that attaches to the lip of the engine compartment and to the wheel well (this latter attachment point is necessary to keep the pump from vibrating). Finally, the kit comes with 3/8” fittings to tap into the brake booster vacuum lines. The Jeep, however, uses 8mm nylon tubing. Brake Buddy, via etrailer.com, stated that the tubing would stretch and all would be good. Again, this felt casual for a safety system. Instead, I purchased an 8mm check valve and a 8-6-8mm barbed tee through Another online retailer to do the job right. I had to heat the Jeep tubing to fit even the 8mm tee, so the is no way the larger 3/8” fittings would have worked. See photo of my finished vacuum line installation. Bottom line, it was a POA install, but looks great. Hopefully it will stop the Jeep when towing. I’ll find out soon. :D
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