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Curt Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Video Transcript for Curt Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Colorado

Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer and today we're taking a look and installing the CURT front hitch trailer receiver on a 2020 Chevy Colorado. Now this is what the front hitch is gonna look like on the front of the Colorado and it sits fairly far recessed back and there's a little bit of trimming on the air dam, but overall it looks fairly clean. The receiver tube opening is gonna be a two inch by two inch, which is gonna be great for a bunch of different accessories. You're gonna have tons of options whether you're planning on putting a winch, a bike rack, cargo carrier or even maybe a snowplow. There's plenty of those available in a two inch configuration. All of them are gonna stay in place with a 5/8 pin and clip.

This is not included with the front hitch but a lot of times when you pick up accessories they'll have one included. If you wanna get a locking version we have those available here at etrailer. This is really nice, especially if you plan on leaving your accessories on the front. You can lock 'em in place and know that no one's gonna walk away with them. Now this does have some pretty good weight capacities.

If you're planning on putting a ball mount on front to move some trailers around. You can go up to a 5,000 pound gross trailer weight rating which is gonna be the weight of the trailer plus the accessories that are loaded up. Your tongue weight rating is gonna be the downward pressure that's put on the receiver tube opening so any of your suspended accessories. So if you're putting a bike rack on front something like that it's gonna come in at 500 pounds, which is pretty good. You could probably get a pretty large bike rack or a large cargo carrier or even a plow up front that should be able to handle that capacity.

Now as far as the straight line pull if you're using a winch or in that application it's actually 9,000 pounds, so it's pretty serious. But you do want to check a vehicle's owner's manual to see if there's any weight capacities that you need to adhere to. And also take note of the accessories loaded up make sure you're not overloading any of them in the process. Now I did mention that it sits fairly far recessed back. So from the center of the hitch pin hole to the furthest point of the bumper it's looking like we have about five inches.

And that's gonna be important when choosing accessories to make sure that you have the clearance to where it's not gonna make contact with the front of the vehicle. It's also important if you're planning on getting a ball mount to move those trailers you might wanna get one with an extended shank to give yourself a little bit of clearance there. Now as far as the ground clearance it's fairly low but not terrible here. It's coming in at right at one foot. So that's something to keep in mind as you have something that may be suspended or honestly any of your accessories up front. If you're going over large bumps or an incline those are gonna want to go to the ground a little bit quicker. So keep that in mind when you have any accessories loaded up on front. Now as far as the installation goes, there's a little bit of trimming required on the front air dam. You also have to trim a little bit of the skid plate there, but not a whole lot. And overall it's really just four bolts that bolt into factory location. So this is a pretty easy installation. You can definitely do this in your driveway or garage. I do recommend having a floor jack ready to kind of pop this in place. But other than that you could probably knock this out in about half an hour or so. Follow along with the installation and we'll make sure you get your front hitch installed. First step for installation is determining whether or not you want to remove your front air dam. You can take this whole thing off and that front hitch is gonna sit here nice and clean but if you plan on keeping this you are gonna have to trim to give it clearance to be able to fit in this spot and it's pretty easy. There's some measurements that are found in the instruction manual and behind here I found a reference point that makes it pretty easy to center up. And what I did is this center notch here where there's a mounting screw just at the edge where these taper down, that's exactly three inches which the instruction calls for. So I ran my tape down just to give me a nice clean line and then measured up from the bottom three and a half inches. And that's gonna give us the spot that we need to trim out. As far as cutting this out, you can use a Dremel, you can use a multi-tool like I'll be using, really anything that cuts through this plastic 'cause we'll go back and kind of sand down any of the burrs. So we'll go ahead get this cut out. So we'll just go ahead and get these burrs knocked out. You can either use a file and just kind of rub it along here. If you don't have a file, you can use the backside of a knife blade that kind of peels away at that but either way it's gonna be on the front of your vehicle so might as well make it look clean. So go ahead and get that sanded down. Next we need to remove our skid plate. This is also gonna need to be trimmed if you plan on putting this back, we can do that a little bit later but we do need to take this down for clearance just to get everything bolted up. So it looks like we just have four 15 millimeter bolts holding this up so we'll go ahead, get those removed. Now we need to fish our hardware into the frame which is gonna create the mounting points for the upper tabs and the bolts need to go from the inside of the frame towards the outside and we'll be using a fish wire technique. So what we'll do is on the outside of the frame we'll feed this through and I'm gonna just put a bend on this other end, that way it doesn't pull through as we're putting our hardware in place. So what we'll do is take a spacer block and we'll feed this into the frame and then we'll take our carriage bolt and coil this up and also feed that into the frame. And this is going to eventually pull through and create the mounting point on the other side. But what we'll do for now, since we're gonna be raising the hitch up shortly, is just place this in the frame and keep your fish wire attached. This is gonna help us guide it up and also pull this through once we have it in place which is gonna help hold the front hitch while we're getting the hardware. Now we're just gonna repeat that same process on the other side as well. At this point you're gonna wanna grab an extra set of hands 'cause we're gonna raise this in place. And so take your fish wire, feed it through the hole and use this to kind of guide it up. And once we raise this up in place, we're gonna jostle that around, try to get that to pop through. And that way once we have that stud pulled through that's gonna allow us to kind of keep this hitch at least supported. So it's a little tight here, so just kind of move it around as necessary to get this to pop in. There we go. And with that pulled through on each side that will support our hitch but we can go ahead and pull off our pull wire here. Just make sure that that bolt doesn't go back in the frame. The weight of the front hitch should kind of hold that in place. And then take your serrated flange nut and just get a few threads started on each side and that way we have our hardware holding this up for us. Now we're gonna use a similar technique to get this in place. So this is gonna go around this front portion here and there's holes in the front. They're gonna align with our tabs. We're gonna have our fish wire feed through the front towards the back, and then we'll get our spacer block and carriage bolt in place. So I'll lift this up. Now something that might help too if you're doing this on the floor in your garage you can use a floor jack to kind of raise this up. Since we're on a lift here, I'll be using a pull jack but this should help kind of put that in place. And if we need to, we can also take that dead blow and kind of knock that up there as well. Now it was pretty tight but using the jack and just knocking that on the backside that caused it to kind of drop in place. Now be careful it did kind of jolt a little as I knocked that. But now that we have that in place, we can go ahead and get our jack out the way and our hardware in place. We're gonna feed the coiled end of our fish wire through our front tab and through the factory hole on our radiator support here. And then once we get this coil done here we'll just feed our spacer block up and then get our carriage bolt in place here and then pull tension on the front here. And then once we get that fed through we can grab our serrated flange nut and get it started. And just kind of keeping tension on the back by pushing on the head of the carriage bolt we're able to get this in place. So now we'll just do the same thing on the other side. It's very tight here, so just take your time. It's kind of not a great angle to get this started but we should get this as a little bit of patience. Get our hardware snug down before coming back with a torque trench, you don't have to get crazy here and with the carriage bolts sometimes it's a little bit tricky to get it spinning. The ones in the front here kind of sit in that plate so it holds it in. On the side though you may have to kind of pull on the nut as you're hand tightening it. Once you kind of get it snug, come back with an 11/16 and get this tightened down. And then go through and tighten down the rest of your hardware. So now with those snug down we need to make sure that they're torqued down properly. And this is gonna be important because it's gonna make sure that it's gonna be tight enough to obviously hold the hitch up in place, but also not too tight putting any stress on the hardware long term. So go ahead, use the torque sitting found in the instruction manual with that same 11/16 and torque down your hardware. Now the front might get a little tricky here. You might be able to sneak in a socket there but to properly torque it down I'm gonna be using a crow's foot attachment and that's gonna allow me to kind of slip this over I think and that way we can get this torqued down properly. It's still pretty tight even with the crow's foot so just be patient here. Now as far as our skid plate goes it pretty much does block exactly where we had our original bolts mounted up. So in the instruction manual you just kind of trim off a little bit of edge here and that's to account for the hardware that's kind of in here. So what it does is it slides kind of into those tabs or mounting tabs here so trimming that off should allow this. It almost lines up with the holes already. So I'm just gonna shave off a little bit of edge here and that should allow this to go back in. So just keep in mind you're not gonna have the hardware in the front holes, but it is sandwiched in place so it's not gonna be coming out. Yeah, and if you want a nice visual reference for this just go to the very top edge of the hole towards the edge that we'll be trimming off. And just use some painter's tape or a line here to put this in place. And then we'll just trim off that edge. Now we can get this slid in place and get our factory bolts put back in. With our skid plate put back in place, our front hitch is officially installed so all that's left to do, load up our accessories and start enjoying using our front hitch. And that was a look and installation of the CURT front hitch trailer receiver on a 2020 Chevy Colorado.