Dial in braking the way you like with options ranging from hidden, dash-knob setups to compact under-dash units and wireless plug-in styles. Hidden knob systems can mount in any orientation, auto-calibrate as you drive, and use vehicle-specific panels for a near-stock look; some even stay dark until a trailer is connected. Wireless models rely on a phone app, while plug-and-play harnesses and simple brackets or zip ties simplify installs.
Verify a solid ground point before finalizing the install. If the brake light wire at the pedal is a very small gauge or tied to turn signals, tap the center rear/3rd brake light instead. On some vehicles, you can pick up a brake signal from a factory control box in the rear. After wiring, plug in the trailer since some systems won't respond until a trailer is connected.
Yes, many units let you hide the main box under the dash and place a small control knob in a blank switch knockout. Check depth behind the knockout; some dashes need trimming to clear the knob's length. Use a vehicle-specific mounting panel for a near-factory look. Confirm the unit can be mounted in any orientation and secure it with zip ties or the included bracket.
Setup is typically straightforward: mount, connect power/ground, plug trailer, and dial in braking force. Some controllers auto-calibrate while you drive, sometimes even without a trailer connected. Expect smooth, progressive braking that can help reduce the push of the trailer. Some models only light up when a trailer is connected to minimize distractions.
Plan on a vehicle-specific plug-in harness if your tow package provides a factory connector. Look behind a kick panel near the emergency brake pedal for the plug on some vehicles. Use a vehicle-specific mounting panel to fit a control knob in a blank dash knockout. If no factory plug exists, be ready to run power, ground, and signal wires to the unit and 7-way.
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