Hydraulic Brakes - Uni-Servo - Free Backing - Dacromet - 10" - Left/Right - 3.5K - 25 Pairs

Video Transcript for etrailer Left and Right Hand Hydraulic Brake Kit Installation

This is what our brake assembly is going to look like, when it's installed. These are going to be great for your marine applications, like we have here. They're going to have a decrement finish on them, which is going to be a lot more durable than just your powder-coated finish. It's really going to hold up well against rust and corrosion. Our cylinder here, this is going to have an aluminum finish. So again, being aluminum finish, it's really going to hold up against rust and corrosion.

All of our springs are going to be stainless steel. Our pads are going to be fully bonded, instead of riveted. And the nice thing about that is, is less chance of them breaking apart, like the riveted ones.Down here on the bottom, this is going to be an adjustment screw. And you're going to have two plugs on the backside here. You pop one of those out and you're going to spin this to adjust your brakes.

Another great thing about these, is these have no lockout. So, a lot of times on boat trailers with electric brakes, when you're in reverse, the brakes will lock up. So, you'd have to unhook the trailer, or unhook the wiring from the back of your vehicle. With these, these do not have the reverse lockout, so you can move your trailer either direction. And these are going to be designed for hydraulic brakes, not electric brakes.

These are going to come as a set. They are going to have a right-hand and a left-hand. Installation process is pretty straightforward. Now, that we've gone over some of the features, let's go ahead and walk through, how to get them installed.Start your installation on installing your new brakes. First, you need to remove your tire.

On the back side, if you have hydraulic line set up, you need to remove that line. Bearing Buddy, if you have them on your trailer and you didn't put them on, how you take them off, you just take a hammer to, just like a cap and you're just going to kind of work around, until it pops loose. There is going to be grease inside there. We're going to wipe this out. Take a pair of needle-nose, we're going to take this cotter pin out, right here. Take this cap off, remove the nut. There's a ring right here and then your bearings. What want to try not to do, if you're not replacing your bearings, is try not to let them fall on the ground. Kind of slide our hub out, like that. Pop that retaining ring off. Pull your bearing out. Slide your hub off. And we need to remove this. Four nuts here, 5/8 socket. Remove your old one.We're going to install the new one. And we'll make sure that this is at the top, your adjustments at the bottom. We're going to use the same nuts and flat washers, or lock washers. Only, they're going to be installed in the backside. Keep in mind your brakes do have a right-hand and a left-hand and there should be a sticker, like this on it. Right side is going to be passenger side, left side is going to be driver. And then we'll tighten those down. Once you get those tight, there's going to be a little black cap on the backside, pull the cap off. We can go ahead and screw in our hard line to the back of our brakes. I'm going to try not to bend these too much, because they can break. So, these can be kind of a pain, both to deal with, to get them lined up correctly. You want to try not to cross thread those, while you're putting that in. Once you get your line put in place, put that back on and then you're just going to re-install everything, in reverse order.One thing to keep in mind, if you're replacing your bearings, you want to repack the bearings, before you put them in. If you're not repacking the bearings, your bearings are a good, you can go ahead and re-install them, because the Bearing Buddy's that we took off to begin with, those are going to allow us to pump grease inside of that. When you re-install this nut, we don't want to use a socket to put it on. All we want to do is, we want to take the play out of the drum. So, we're just going to hand tighten it on there, just like that. Once you get that on, put your cap on and then re-install your counter pin. And if you're using Bearing Buddy, just hammer it right back into place.Once you get your Bearing Buddy put back in place, go ahead and re-install your wheel. What do you want to do, is spin it. And you want your brake pads to actually stop the wheel. So, you may need to make some adjustments. The reason we want them to stop our wheel, is because we want the brake pad to wear evenly. If you go listen to it. Kind of hear it going in and out. That means only a part of the brake pad is touching.We'll pop the cap out. Once you get your cap off, make sure you hold on to it, so you can put that back in. This is actually a tool for this. You can find these at your local auto parts store. We're just going to spin that adjustment wheel. It's got little teeth on it. We'll spin it, till we get it to sit where we want. You can kind of hear how the whole pad is grabbing it.Once you have your brakes installed and you've added new fluid, it's a good idea to bleed your brakes, to get any of those air pockets that may be stuck in your lines. Once you get one side adjusted, you get your trailer back on the ground. Don't forget to torque your lug nuts down to the specifications. Once you get one side completely done, repeat the process on the other.That's going to do it for a look at and installation on etrailer's Hydraulic Drum Brake Kit.