Does Install of P3 Brake Controller in 2018 Ram 2500 Require Computer Reprogram  

Question:

Expert Reply:

To install an aftermarket brake controller on a 2018 Ram 2500 that has the factory integrated controller you will have to disconnect the ITBM (Integrated Trailer Brake Module) and have the computer reprogrammed. Unplugging the IBC will turn on a warning lamp on the instrument cluster. In order to disconnect the ITBM and not get the warning lamp, your local Dodge dealer will have to reconfigure the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module), of the truck. Once the TIPM has been reconfigured, and the ITBM has been unplugged, you can use a vehicle specific brake control harness such as the Tekonsha # 3024-P, to install the Prodigy P3 part # 90195.

To disconnect the ITBM, you or the dealer will need to contact the Business Center to remove the sales code (XHC). The TIPM will need to be reconfigured. Once the sales code has been disabled you can disconnect the ITBM electrical connector, under the dash, without getting the warning lamp. Basically the computer needs to be told that the truck does not have a brake controller so you can unplug it without getting that warning light.

expert reply by: Jameson C

0

Jack M.

9/22/2025

Jameson, I have THE SAME exact truck in question aI have been having issues with my trailer brake module not wanting to stop my 5th wheel trailer I recently installed the prodigy P3 with suppled harness I unplugged the 4 pin plug from item and plugged in prodigy I have no lights or warning lights however issue is with brakes applied I’m only getting Like 7.3 volts that the same voltage I had before with factory module. I reviewed same of your tech articles but there’s so wrong! I hade factory module sent to heavy braking and maxed out with very little braking action, I thought the Takisha was supposed to cure this issue? I replaced all the brakes (two axle) with two new drums brakes are self adjusting, bought em on Amazon look identical to what came off . Really lost her I hope I don’t have to hard wire the old way . Any Ideas ?????.. Thanks Jack

Jameson C.

9/22/2025

@JackM So with the output maxed on the P3 you are only seeing 7.3 volts?

Jack M.

9/23/2025

Correct. When applying the trailer brake manually, I am only seeing 6.7 volts! However, I still don't see any lights on the dashboard. This is so puzzling. Any Ideas

Jameson C.

9/23/2025

@JackM The P3 won't show anything on the dash of your truck as it has essentially bypassed all of that. If the P3 is set at it's max output setting and with override lever slid all the way it only gets to 6.7 volts the controller is bad.

Jack

9/23/2025

Again, then what are you talking about removing sales code? This makes No sense!

Jameson C.

9/23/2025

@Jack Removing the codes prevents error codes from popping up on the dash due to using a different controller. That's as far as that goes. There isn't a way to allow the P3 to communicate with the dash display.

Jack

9/23/2025

Well then, if I don't see any codes OR LIGHTS, I would say all is good as FAR AS codes go!

Jameson C.

9/23/2025

@Jack I would agree! Have you tried towing a trailer with it yet?

Jack

9/23/2025

Not as of yet, I plan to very soon

Jameson C.

9/23/2025

@Jack Let me know how it works. It SHOULD be fine but either way I am curious.

Jack M.

10/31/2025

@JamesonC Jameson, I am still having issues. Maybe you can put in your two cents. I installed a new junction box with a 7-way RV plug assembly, new 10-gauge wire from front to back with No splices. Measured voltage from the 7-way plug from the truck, with the blue wire removed from the box, I get 13.56 volts in manual mode, maxed out with 9.76 amps, blue wire connected. As soon as I reconnect the blue wire voltage drops. Resistance to one wheel is drawing 3.3 ohms, Amperes draw in the rear is about 10 amps. NOW WHAT Thanks jack

Jameson C.

11/3/2025

@JackM That's quite a bit of resistance. You are absolutely sure all of the grounds are connected properly? Is the ground for each assembly ran to the trailer frame or do they run back to the front of the trailer to the main ground harness?

Jack M.

11/3/2025

@JamesonC, this thing is driving me nuts. All grounds that I can see are good. I installed a new 7-wire junction box; the 7-way plug is sealed. I made new grounds, cleaned, and repaired a battery ground to the frame. The trailer has 4 batteries, including solar charging and a generator. I cleaned the generator ground, ran new 10-gauge wire for power and ground, and installed a new terminal block by the rear axles to eliminate several splices, and made two new grounds for the terminal block. All grounds go back to the junction with two new grounds running to the frame in the rear, all brake assy. ohm out at 3.1 ohms Everything seems in spec, but why won't it stop? going to check voltage from inside the truck tomorrow from the blue wire in the can with trailer brake controller unplugged with power! Can you think of anything I might have missed???

Jameson C.

11/4/2025

@JackM Have you tried towing a trailer with it yet? Since it's a proportional controller they don't always show all of the voltage they can create without sensing deceleration. If you can test with a trailer at this point I would do that and see how powerful the brakes are and go from there. It's pretty rare a trailer is going to use all 12 volts before locking up.

Jack M.

11/5/2025

@JamesonC, I did try towing with very little braking power. I have been trying to nail down this voltage loss issue. All testing I've done has been in manual mode. The controller puts out 13.56 volts to the trailer. When I hook the blue wire to the trailer side, it drops 3 volts! All grounds are good, all brake assy. Ohm out at 3.1 (all 4). I'm going to run a new ten-gauge wire tomorrow to see if the wire can carry the voltage without dropping off! I am using a terminal block, and I grounded it to the frame because it originally ran all the way to the front of the trailer! Any other ideas, let me know Thanks jack

Jameson C.

11/5/2025

@JackM Voltage loss is typically only caused by resistance. So running new wire or additional wire should help get rid of or reduce the resistance. Is the trailer on the longer side to the point the run of wire is longer than usual? That will add resistance if so. You can also check to make sure the pins of the 7-way that carry the brake output circuit aren't bent or corroded which would prevent a full connection from being made.

Jack M.

11/5/2025

@JamesonC I want to believe you are correct! I ran a new 10-gauge quality wire from the front to the back of the trailer. I ran a jumper wire with a 20-amp circuit breaker, about a 28-foot run Trailer volts show 13.25 volts, blue wire jumper is 14 gauge (about 10 inches long), 12.54 volts. Then the test voltage in the rear, which now reads 12.04 volts. However, I don't recall if it's 9 or 12 amps. However, I believe this is acceptable. Tell me your thoughts? The moral of the story is Don't buy wire from Amazon, it comes back to bite you in the ASS Big time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Jack

Jameson C.

11/5/2025

@JackM That's pretty crazy! I wonder what is wrong with their wire they are selling as 10 gauge? That should be plenty thick enough but clearly it's not!

Jack M.

11/6/2025

@JamesonC In my opinion, it chinsaneum, Garbage. They sell 4 rolls of 10-gauge wire, stating it will carry 600 volts. I went through so much just to do the job all over again. What a waste, and I can't even get reimbursed for my time on this job. I have to start over, rewire, then test brakes again, so I will keep you abreast of the issues as they arise! Jack

Jameson C.

11/6/2025

@JackM Right on! Yeah let us know how it goes using higher quality wire. It should work like it is supposed to.

Jack M.

11/14/2025

@JamesonC Hello, just a quick update, I finally finished rewiring the brakes front to back. I replaced all the 14-gauge wire with 10 & 12-gauge wire (mostly 10 gauge). I ran new wire inside the axles as well. I was able to make some extra grounds, but while checking braking voltages while idling at the junction box, I'm now getting about 9.56 volts with trailer brake applied & maxed out. I noticed a couple of spikes around 13, 14 volts, and 12.55 amps. With the trailer jacked up on the right side, I spun the wheels, and they locked up when I tried turning them manually! So the next step is to road test the trailer! That will be the real test! However, do you think the voltages correlate correctly? Tell me your thoughts. If this still doesn't work, I will be replacing the brake assy. next! Jack

Jameson C.

11/18/2025

@JackM I think you are on the right track and am confident a road test will show they are working good. A proportional controller will have the voltage spike and move around quite a bit.

Jack M.

11/18/2025

@JamesonC I'm not sure now, but all I can do at this point is try to readjust the brakes and take a road test and not worry about voltage drops as much. I have had several conversations with Teonsha, no solid answer, only that the controller is not the issue, as far as voltages are concerned. It is driving me nuts, really! Tell me your thoughts Thanks for the time, Jack

Jameson C.

11/18/2025

@JackM My thoughts would be just try it out and see what it does. That controller is known to be incredibly reliable but there is always possibility it's bad but I think it'll be okay once you test it.

See All (23) Replies to Jack M. ∨

Jack M.

10/8/2025

Please respond to my last email. Controller not working? No programming needed! I need assistance

Jameson C.

10/8/2025

@JackM I just saw the email you sent: Jameson, update I recently completed a 40-mile round trip semi vacation with my 5th wheel so far, no lights on the dash as far as trailer symbols go so, I believe that's not an issue! However, the braking issue still exists I have the controller sets at three and the Manuel brake control set at max! still little to NO brake action I felt the brake drums at the end of both trips and all four were cool to the touch! I'm at a loss here, I have tried calling Tekonsha to no avail I left seven unreturned messages, spent hours on hold. At this point I can no longer believe etrailer tech support or Tekonsha. I believe I was sold something on false pretenses with no support. I could have bought something from one of those crappy companies on Ebay with no support. at this point is it possible to return this item for my money back? As I stated before all brakes are new and there's nothing wrong with the wiring! Is the controller sitting level from side to side and facing the rear of the vehicle squarely? Those two things have to happen for the controller to function properly.

Jack

10/9/2025

@JamesonC No, it's at an angle like the instructions show also, I have tried to contact Tekonsha to no avail, I spent hours on hold, left seven unreturned messages, nothing, no support I reviewed the trailer schematic that was posted. It shows the brake grounded to the frame individually; all mine go back to a junction box, two wires run to each axle, so all grounds go back to one point, then the seven-way cable. hate to keep going on, but something is really wrong here.

Jameson C.

10/9/2025

@Jack The brake controller could be bad if it will only output up to 7 volts when set to max. It's unusual for the P3 to have this issue as it's normally rock solid but anything is possible. Only other thing I can think of is the wiring on trailer for the brake output circuit is too thin to carry all of the current which is limiting voltage. Or it could also be that the assemblies are out of adjustment.

Jack M.

1/7/2026

Jameson, Update I want to let you know my findings with my fifth wheel brakes, I spoke to a Tekonsha tech at length they recommended I readjust the brakes, I went through the whole trailer again, replaced another drum 3 of 4 are now new. I again readjusted all brakes, drove the trailer out to an area off road and kept applying the brakes and finally got them to burn in. I can feel them stopping now I have the controller set at max so now I can readjust the gain I had people tell me the amps were bad the voltage was being lost it was an issue with the connector nothing was wrong but let people know don't buy cheap wire from amazon, which was an issue I used 10 Guage wire front to back some said over kill, 12 gauge was sufficient. but I used 10 gauge, anyway I have brakes now So, the morale of the story is adjust and adjust@! I'M here if you need but thanks for listening Jack

Jameson C.

1/7/2026

@JackM Glad you got it figured out! Yeah this comes up more than you'd think and it's a weird deal where it's not common knowledge that they have to be adjusted a lot and burnished in.

Jack M.

1/7/2026

@JamesonC The thing is, I bought off e Bay from Vevor, which I'll never do again. They have NO Support at ALL, yet keep them adjusted. And use good wire, not the cheap stuff from Amazon or eBay. Thanks again for listening! Jack Trailer brake wanna be expert

See All (6) Replies to Jack M. ∨