Titan Disc Brake Kit and Leverlock Actuator with Electric Lockout Installation

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How to Install the Titan Disc Brake Kit and Leverlock Actuator with Electric Lockout


Today we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Titan Disc Brake and Leverlock Actuator with Electric Lockout. This is designed for use on a single 3,500 pound axle. Part number is T4843100. Now, the actuator is basically going to act like your brake pedal on your boat trailer. So as we hit the brakes in our truck, it's going to give resistance this way, and the boat's going to try to push forward. So when that happens, if you take a look, see how that slides in That sliding motion is going to work our master cylinder internally and push that pressure through to our brakes.

This is going to give us a great advantage in braking, in that we're not worried about electronics, we're not worried about brake controllers. That's all going to happen right here. We get the benefit of disc brakes out of it, and as that slides back and in, we get the pressure.So it's a very proportional type system. Under light braking, it's only going to lightly move, so we're going to get lighter braking force. Under the more emergency situations where we really got to get on the brakes, this is going to be pushed together much more quickly and rapidly, giving us higher braking force on our trailer.Now, this is what your assembly will look like once you get it installed.

Now, disc brakes have a huge advantage over drum-style brakes, of course. All cars and everything have switched over to this type. Basically, you get superior braking performance, and you get a lot less wear. So our caliper is going to force the brake pads to squeeze on to the rotor. That gives us our stopping force, but then it's going to release.

It's going to give that tension away, that way we won't have to worry about any pressure on it.Now, this rotor overall is 9 3/4 inch. It gives us superior stopping power, designed for use on 3,500 pound axles. It's going to have the five, so we've got five 1/2 inch wheel studs, and that's going to be on a 4 1/2 inch pattern, so five on 4 1/2 inch is what you're looking for. Now, the rotor and our calipers, they're going to have a Dacromet finish on it. Basically, Dacromet going to give you a very corrosion-resistant set up.

Of course, the area here, you can already see we've spun it a few times. The brake pads are going to wear through that, and you'll have steel on pad contact, but the rest of the system is going to resist corrosion very well. Now, that's going to be especially important on boat trailers that you're going to have in and out of the water constantly. Something I would recommend if you're going to be doing a saltwater type application, you might want to go with the stainless steel. It just has a little bit better corrosion resistant properties that the Dacromet, but these are certainly going to be better than just standard or zinc coated.Something else I like about this set up, it is a ventilated rotor, so it's going to help to cool it down. The set up that was on here just had a top pad or just a single plate rotor, and of course that's going to get heated up a lot more quickly than what we get out of this style of set up. Now, the pads are automotive grade, so they're going to give us superior stopping force. As you can see, it's going to be a nice, thick pad. These are ceramic, so we're not dealing with the semi-metallic kind of dust that comes off of those. Ceramic pads are a lot better about that. And then the pads themselves on the leading edge here and the following edge, those are going to be beveled. That'll reduce any of the chatter or anything like that to make sure we don't have a noisy brake set up.Now, it's going to come with everything you need, as long as your axle has a four-bolt brake flange on it. We're going to have our caliper bracket. We got our caliper, and we've got our new disc. It's also going to come with the new bearings. It's going to come with new seals to go inside. And in this case, with the kit, also the Bearing Buddy. This is an excellent solution to keeping and maintaining grease inside of your hub or your disc. You see you've got a grease Zerk right there. There's a spring on the front, so that holds a little bit of pressure on it. If you get too much grease in there, rather than it blowing out through the seal on the backside, which we've kind of seen in the past, it's going to come out of the front. So we fully greased it, got it packed full, and you can see a little bit's come out of the front, indicating that we've got it properly lubricated.Now, this is the stainless steel version of the Bearing Buddy. It's always a good idea. Stainless steel is going to be a little bit better than chrome plating when it comes to corrosion resistance. I would say the only time the stainless steel version over the chrome plated, which you'll take a look at in just a second, would be in saltwater applications. With saltwater, always want to go with as much stainless as possible.Here you can see the chrome plated style. Now, this one's been on the trailer for a while, but it's perfectly acceptable if you have to make repairs to your trailer to remove it and replace it on your new installation, so we put new hubs on here, but the Bearing Buddies we're in good shape, so there's no sense in getting rid of them. You can see that, kind of that chrome plate finishes compared to the stainless steel we just looked at.Now, these Bearing Buddies are going to be designed for a hub bore, so the inside edge to edge basically of your hub, it should be 1.980 inches. Basically that's gonna be most commonly found on your 2000, 2500 and 3500 pound axles. Now here's your old disc and caliper assembly. Basically you can see it's been time for replacement here for quite a while. If you look close enough there's not even a brake pad here on the outside, so this system was not working at all. We're gonna get this completely removed and we wanna get right down to our spindle.Basically that'll be taking off our disc, take off our caliper. I'm gonna show you how to do that. Now your application may be a little bit different, but in this one we've got a couple of nuts that are here in the backside, we're gonna take these off. Ours use a 3/4 inch wrench, really the only way to get in there. Maybe a socket. That allows us to move our caliper a little bit, we've got that portion loose, it's not gonna come off without this coming off, so it's gonna be our next step.It's like it's kinda seized up, it should really, these pins should slide. There you go, they should slide in and out, but it's just seen better days. I'm gonna get this old Bearing Buddy out of there. Clearly you can see it's been leaking, just have to hope our spindle's in good shape once we get in there. Now we're gonna rotate the disc, and we need to tap this one again, it has a Bearing Buddy, yours might just have a metal cap over the end of it.You're just gonna tap and you'll see how it starts to separate around that edge there. And eventually it's gonna come off, just like that. I'm gonna take some towels and clean that up a little bit. Cleaning this up, we're gonna see the nut inside, and we'll determine how it's kept on and this one's gonna be a castle nut with a cotter pin. You might have a kind of a clip that slides over it, couple of different manners that they can be held.We just wanna get that out so we can see it, then we pull that out so we can loosen that nut. Grab a hold of it with a pair of needle nose. Once we've got those straightened out, you can see you kinda push on those, give you room to get your needle nose on here. And get it out. Next step, we're backing our nut off.Now, we're gonna have new bearings, we're gonna have new braces to go in there. But we'll hang onto our nut and our thrust washer just in case we need to reuse them. I'm just gonna take that off as one piece. Keep your finger on that bearing or it'll come out, get on you. Now we get on the backside here, we really wanna clean this spindle up. And as we do this, we need to inspect for any kind of damage, mainly what we're gonna be looking for are significant signs of heat, major discoloration.This is the area, our seal. It's gonna spin around that constantly as the trailer's in motion, so we need to make sure that's nice and it's in good shape, which it is. Spindle looks okay, little bit of discoloration here, it doesn't look like it's had any negative effects on it. Looks like they got the bearings before they caused any damage. If you see any major scarring, any divots, any imprints in this, et cetera, certainly something that you'll wanna address. And basically a lot of times that's gonna be just putting on a new axle unfortunately, but it happens.Now we've got our caliper bracket. It's held in place with four bolts here. In our application we're gonna use a 5/8 inch wrench and a socket. Let's get that cleaned up nicely, have a good mounting surface there and we'll do the same thing on the other side. Basically anything we do here, it's gonna be the exact same on the opposite side, so just keep that in mind.Now we'll get our new brake flange put in place. You can see these little raised bumps that are gonna be on your flange. That helps to center this, so you want those to be just inside of that lip, all the way around. Now we're gonna be putting on new hardware, you saw the condition of that old hardware, no sense in putting that back on.Now, the hardware we're using is gonna be replacement hardware, it's part number BRKH10A, it's gonna be for the 10 inch brake assembly, and you'll have eight bolts, nuts and lock washers. We're gonna put a nut and lock washer on the back of each of the bolts. Now we'll secure these down, we're gonna use a 5/8 here on the outside, you want an 11/16 for the nut.Now we've got the outer and inner bearing, we need to pack these full of grease before we get our disc put in place. You can see there's a larger gap on that larger side, on that backside. There are many different ways to pack bearings, there are bearing packers out there and available in the market. I like just doing it by hand, grab some. Now of course we're gonna be using marine grade grease, this is a boat trailer. It offers a little bit better corrosion resistant properties then your standard grease. If we're using this on a utility trailer, travel trailer, something like that, you could just use the standard red grease.We'll start packing it in there. Now as we go, we can see that grease has been forced up and through, creating those little, kind of droplets on the top there. We wanna do that all the way around to ensure our bearing is fully packed. When we've got our inner bearing taken care of, this is our smaller outer bearing that you can see, just pushing it up through there. I like doing this way, it doesn't take a whole lot more time than what it would with a bearing packer and you ensure that you get grease all the way through.Right, now we've got our inner bearing. We've placed it down inside the backside of our disc here. We need to get our seal put in place. I'm just gonna place it squarely on there, we're gonna begin tapping around the outside to get that seated in place. Then we're gonna tap that down, so it becomes flush. Now we're using a dead blow hammer, if you don't have a dead blow, you could also use a small block of wood, kinda use that to tap down.Not really recommended to use a steel hammer on it, because more than likely, you're gonna damage the seal before you ever get it in. Now we're gonna bring that over to our spindle. Remember, we've cleaned that off really well, we're gonna get that slid on, seated and then we'll place our outer bearing there. Now, the tapered side should be facing in, and that goes for the front and back bearing there. Let me get that slid in, gonna place our thrust washer back on, and we can thread back on our castle nut.Now, if you loosen that up just a little bit, we've got a little in and out play with our disc. Kind of see it moving. We wanna eliminate all of that. We don't want it to be overly tight, we still want this to be able to spin nice and freely, just about like that, with zero end play, zero movement in and out.Right, now we've got two holes in this particular spindle, yours might just have one in it. But we need to line up one of the gaps so we can slide a counter pin through. And we need to grab the ends of it, we need to bend those in. Just like that. That's gonna keep our nut from backing off. Remember, we didn't tighten it up really all that tight, so that'll keep that from loosening up on us.Now, we'll get our caliper in place. These are our caliper slide bolts. We wanna make sure we've got those pushed back and in, make sure we've got our pad pulled out here. We'll slide that over our rotor. We wanna line our caliper bolts up with the threaded holes that we've got in the back of that bracket, which'll be right here, same spot on the bottom side.Now you can see right here where the brake line needs to go into the caliper. It's right in line with that spring pack. So what we're gonna do, we're gonna rotate that 90 degrees so it'll be pointing straight up. That'll give us a lot better opportunity to get our hosed attached when the time comes. Just loosen up our bolts, pull that back off and get that rotated.So you're just give that a rotate using a 12 mm wrench. Now we'll just grab our torque wrench, get those torqued down. Now it's time for us to get our Bearing Buddy in place. This works like any traditional cap on the end, whether it's a solid metal, the Ez Lube. But basically, this is gonna give us a little bit of pressure in to keep the grease packed in properly, but it also has a little weep hole which we can't see right now. Once we have grease in, we'll see it and it'll leak out of the front a little bit rather than putting too much pressure on it. Just gonna line that up. It's kinda just like we did with the seal. Just gonna gently start it, and tap it in all the way round, til it's firmly seated just like that.Now, for running our hydraulic lines from our calipers here up to the front of your trailer, that's really of course gonna depend on your application, but I like to start just kinda loosely installing things. So we're gonna pull this yellow cap out of the caliper. We can see our flexible line here, two of them are gonna have these 90 degree bends. We're gonna thread that in to where we pulled that yellow cap out. Then again, we're gonna loosely install everything for now, and we'll come back through and tighten everything up later.Now, this line is gonna come up to our frame and there's gonna be a block that holds it here. It's just a little clip we put on, slide this through and then we put an additional clip there. So that's gonna lock this position out, and it's gonna give us plenty of room for our brake line to flex. Now, beyond that, we're gonna thread a hard line into the end of this fitting. Generally on the driver's side I'm gonna use the shorter one. See, that's gonna thread in right here. But we need to ensure that we put our T block, which is here, we've got the incoming line from the actuator that goes in here. This is gonna go to our driver's side, this to our passenger side or vice versa.Now that, I wanna mount on a fixed surface. So this is a cross member for the trailer, this does not move. It's not like our axles. I don't like mounting anything brake line wise, especially hard lines to your axles, that movement can cause flex and leak. So we need to mount our T to where it's in a good position to get to it. So that's gonna be about right here. I'm gonna keep this down lower, so I'll need to drill a hole here in and then we'll use a self-tapping screw to secure that right to that cross member. Our hydraulic line's gonna come from the front end and around here to go in here. The short line runs over to here, and then we're gonna have the medium link line that's gonna run from here, that's gonna go over to the passenger side of the trailer.Now again, every trailer is gonna be different, you're gonna have different mounting locations. So what we're gonna do is go through and get this all set up, then we'll walk you through how we did it and show you exactly how you'll need to do it on your trailer. Again, that's gonna depend on your configuration now.Now for running our hydraulic lines from our calipers here up to the front of your trailer, that's really of course gonna depend on your application. But I like to start just kind of loosely installing things, so we're gonna pull this yellow cap out of the caliper. We can see our flexible line here. Two of them are gonna have these 90 degree bends. We're gonna thread that in to where we pulled that yellow cap out. Now this line is gonna come up to our frame and there's gonna be a block that holds it's here. It's just a little clip we put on, slide this through and then we put in an additional clip there. So that's gonna lock this position out and it's gonna give us plenty of room for our brake line to flex.And here's the attachment point we talked about for our flex line, and again, that's gonna fit in like that. So you just need to make sure we've got the slack we need for up and down movement. It looks like that's gonna be a good spot. You can see the tab here, we wanna drill a hole for that first, that's gonna be right there. Now we can place that tab into our hole, that'll keep our bracket from moving, we don't want any rotation on it because that's gonna change the angle of our line.We're gonna use a number 14 self-tapping screw. We'll use that to secure the bottom. And that's gonna come up, we'll use our U clip, slide that in behind it like that. Now I'm gonna thread my shorter line in, and again, I'm really just gonna do these hand tight. If we tighten them all the way, we can't really adjust them, we can't move it side to side. So the last step we'll do is go around and tighten every one of our fittings. Now I'm gonna mock up my T fitting, just by threading that in. Looks like we'll mount that right there, so I need to drill the hole for the tab just below it. Now we'll use another self-tapper, we'll secure a T. And then from this point, going over to the passenger side, we're just gonna do this exact same thing.Now here's a good look at how we've got it set up. You can see we've got our main line coming in from our actuator which we'll be installing next. Runs into our T, then we've got our split here to come over to our driver side, also over to our passenger side. I like using these loom clamps, they're a metal clamp, zinc coated and they've got the rubber inside, part number is A0250 on them. And I've just used number 12 self-tapping screws to secure those in. Those hold our lines really well, we won't have to worry about them wiggling or vibrating, making contact with something we don't want. Same going across the cross member here. Remember, we're using the main cross member on the trailer, we're not going across an axle. And that's just gonna come over to our hard line bracket here, running into our line, it's eventually just going down to the caliper there.Now we've got everything in position, we've got our lines the way we want them to be ran, everything's in a safe spot, so now we're gonna go through and we're gonna tighten down all of our fittings to ensure that we've got a good connection.When you're routing your lines, I wouldn't get much more of a bend in it than what we have right here. We need to keep this open of course, it's a hollow tube. So just like a plastic straw, if you bend it too far, it creates kind of a pinch point. We want our fluid to be able to flow freely, so that's gonna be about the extent of the bend that you'll want to put in it. And at any time you're gonna do something like that on that sharp of a bend, a tubing bender is really the way to go or a brake line bender. For the rest of them, kind of here in creating this angle or creating this angle, it's really something you can do by hand. Now for the thin hard line, you wanna use a 3/8 inch. And then for this larger one on your flex hose, that's gonna be a 5/8, just to keep in mind.Now as far as from the T forward you can see again, loom clamps. We're just running right along the frame. If yours has accommodations to pass through, that's a good idea, keep it protected. You just certainly want it to be below this level, so it won't actually accidentally get stepped on or something like that. We've continued running that forward here, right into the tongue of our trailer, and that heading out the front. Now this is a really long trailer, and it has a very long tongue on it, so we've added a four and a half foot piece of flex hose to the end of this just to get us up to the coupler. Your application, you may need to do that, you may not, it's just gonna depend on the overall length of the setup.Now we're gonna get our actuator set into place, we're just gonna use a temporary position to start so we can make our connections on that backside. But what we'll have are the two holes here and here, and if you've already got a braking system or a hydraulic braking system, you're probably already gonna have those two holes to attach it to. If not, they're gonna be half inch holes, you can use a half inch bolt. You wanna be at least four inches long, four and a quarter, four and a half would also be fine. Place that down and on. Like I said, I'm just gonna put it here temporarily. Once we get our connections made, we'll slide it back and line up both the holes and get it attached.Now, between our actuator and the line that provides fluid to our calipers, we're doing an electric lockout. So basically this is gonna be connected to ground on one side, we'll show you how to do that, and to your reverse wire coming from your seven pole or five pole, six pole, whatever you've got. On the other side, it's gonna act as a solenoid. So, as your vehicle's backing up, it's gonna cut off that pressure, or that brake fluid from locking up the brakes. Basically this is important when you're backing up a hill and you want to be able to have your trailer wheels turn freely. It just prevents that pressure from being sent back. Otherwise, when you start it to back up a hill, as the actuator gets compressed, it's gonna apply the brakes, it's gonna make it difficult to back up.Now the solenoid is designed to replace the thread adapter that we have here on the back of the actuator. So we're gonna use a half inch wrench and we're gonna get that removed. Basically the actuator is designed to work with or without an electric lock out. So by taking this out, we'll be able to thread this in. That way it'll be set up for that lockout procedure when we hit reverse. Now we wanna get that secured to our actuator. Gonna use that big nut there, that's a 15/16 inch wrench.Now we'll take the flexible brake line hose. You'll have a shorter one from your kit. Remember, we've kind of lengthened ours a little bit just to make up for the length of the tongue. We're gonna get that secured down. Now, as you start it, also hold this one with a wrench. That way we don't have to worry about this turning on us. For this you wanna use a 9/16, and then for this, we're gonna stay with the 3/8.Now for the wiring side, I'm gonna extend one of the wires slightly, it really doesn't matter which one. I'm gonna use a piece of 16 gauge wire, this is gonna allow us to get it to the reverse signal on the plug coming from our truck. To connect the two together, I'm gonna use a heat shrink butt connector, part number is DW05744. And if you don't have wire, that part number is 16-1-1. Let me get that crimped down.Now we're gonna use a heat source to get this shrunk. You can use a heat gun, you can use a mini torch or just a lighter. The key is not to overheat it, just gonna give it some gentle heat. You can see it start to shrink down just like that. Now once it's fully shrank, you notice the wire looks like it's much bigger, and then there's just a little clear gel comes out of the end. Now, the other wire will act as our ground. So we're gonna strip that back. I always like to twist the wires, give it something good to hold onto. Now we're gonna place on a ring terminal. Gonna crimp that down. And we just have to attach this to the tongue. So when we hit reverse, the signal comes through here, the solenoid is gonna close, not allowing the fluid to pass by. And then because we've got it grounded out, it's gonna work for us.I'm gonna place that right here, so it still will be accessible, but as we slide this back, most of this wiring will go inside there. We use a number 12 self-tapping screw to make that connection. Just like that. Got our connections made, now it's just slide the actuator back and get our bolts put in. With those through we're gonna place a couple of nylon lack nuts on the other side. Seems like the four inch bolts really work out well and give us just enough bolt length there to get those nylon threads engaged, get everything nice and secure.Now, with half inch bolts you'll use a 3/4 inch or a 19 mm wrench and socket of the same size. Now we'll get our bolts torqued down. Now with our actuator installed, we've got all of our connections made all the way throughout, it's time to add fluid into the reservoir here on top. Just gonna open that up. Now, the brake fluid you pick, you wanna make sure that you just opened it, that you just opened the seal. Brake fluid that sits around for a long time, it draws moisture into it and it reduces it's effectiveness. So we want a fresh pint of brake fluid here. Generally it takes two or three pints to get the entire system flushed, some a little bit more, some a little bit less.We're just gonna top it off, cap it back up. And we'll go through the bleeding process. Now, I can not stress to you enough the importance of keeping fluid in this reservoir. If you are bleeding the brakes, pumping fluid through it and this runs dry, well then you're just gonna pump air into the system and then you'll have to go through the whole thing again. So be sure every one or two times that you have someone hold the lever, which we'll show you here in just a second and open that up, that you take a look in there to make sure you've got the pressure, or at least the fluid you need to keep it pressurized.Now something I like about this coupler that we don't see on all of the couplers out there in the market, is right here you can see the head of a screw, or a bolt that comes out with a locknut on it. Simply by using a screwdriver, we're able to go to the hole in the coupler, we can get that in front and we can use that to pump our fluid. That's gonna generate the pressure that we need to get our fluid all the way back through our lines to our caliper. So what we do, pump it up a little bit here just to get everything primed, then we're gonna have somebody hold this. As they're holding it, we're gonna open up our bleeder screws and start letting air out of the system.You'll notice here as we pump it, the air coming up in the reservoir. So that's slowly getting fluid down into the master cylinder that'll eventually work into our lines. So we're just gonna do this until we don't see the air here and that it's being pushed all the way back in through the system. Now you can kind of see at this point we have very little, if any air coming out at all. So that means we're gonna be primed here, now it's time to start going to the back. And remember, we're gonna top off this fluid every chance we get, keep that full.Now, for bleeding the system, we're gonna use the top bleeder screw on each side. That's why there's one on the bottom, one on the top. So regardless of which side the caliper goes on, we always wanna use the upper one. We've got the rubber cap, we're gonna take that off. And we want to turn the smaller portion here. For that, you wanna use a 5/16, lefty loosey, righty tighty. But you need something to catch the fluid. You see our very sophisticated device that we've come up with. Basically it's gonna be a rubber hose, goes into the top of a water bottle. So we'll place this over the top of that bleeder and we'll go ahead and have him pump up the brakes. Once they've got that pressure held, we wanna open this. And by opening it, we're gonna release the pressure inside there, it'll give us a little bit of air that comes out. And we just need to continue this process until we get rid of all the air that's coming through and we just have pure fluid.Okay, go ahead. You can see in the bottom of our bottle here, we've got just a little bit of fluid. Let's watch as we break this open. See those bubbles forming That's what we're getting rid of. So each one of those bubbles indicates air that's coming out of our line. Okay, I'm gonna tighten it back up, go ahead.Now a couple of tips for bleeding the system, start with the one that's furthest away from the actuator. Basically if we drew a line, it'd be the same distance, but this one has more brake line. So we're gonna start here. And you can see we've still got air coming out, but we're also starting to get a little bit of fluid. Just wanna make sure we can do this three or four times and not have any air come out. At that point, this line's void of any air, we'll go over, do the other one. All right, looks like at this point, pure fluid coming out. So we'll just move over to the other side and we can do the same thing there. Now that should take us a lot less time because we don't have to work it all the way from the actuator through all the lines. And once you're done with the side, put that bleeder cap back on, just to keep it free of debris.And once we've got the system, we wanna refill our reservoir, make sure we've got plenty of fluid there. And we're gonna do the same thing we did before, we're gonna apply pressure here, and then we're gonna check each of our connection points and make sure we don't have any leaks. We wanna check underneath the front of our solenoid there to make sure we don't have any fluid there. If you connected your hose just like we did, but we used a longer one, you wanna check that connection. In this case, we'd have to use a flashlight, we'll look in there in just a second.We're gonna check each of the fittings here at the T, you can see the two of those are nice and dry. We're gonna check our hard line connection to our flexible line. Then we'll check the point in which that flexible line goes into the caliper. As long as everything there is dry with some pressure held on it from up front, should be in really good shape.And the last step will be just to put your rims back on. You can see we're reusing our old lug nuts. The hub kit didn't come with new ones. And we'll get these snugged down, but be sure to torque them to whatever specification your trailer requires. Then once that's in place, we're just gonna fill it and you'll see that center section kind of come out towards us a little bit there. And once we have grease that starts to bypass, we'll know we've got it filled up properly. At that point, just put your protective cover over it there, it'll keep out all the moisture. Then we place our cap over. I always like to give a little bit of a push there in the middle to get anything out, any kind of excess air that might be in there.Now we can check out, make sure everything's working, which we know it is but it's good to do. What we're gonna do is rotate our tire here, we'll get it spinning and we'll have somebody manually activate the brakes for us up there. And see, it comes to a nice stop. And that's gonna complete our look at the Titan Disc Brake and Leverlock Actuator kit, part number T4843100.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Installed by:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Zach D
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Kathleen M
Video by:
Alan C

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