Stromberg Carlson Electric Drop Leg A-Frame Trailer Jack Review

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Review of the Stromberg Carlson Electric Drop Leg A-Frame Trailer Jack


Speaker 1: Today we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install the Stromberg Carlson Electric A-Frame Trailer Jack. This offers a four thousand pound lift capacity, and 22 and a half inches of lift. Part number is JET-4000NG.Now electric trailer jacks are a really nice idea on trailers, especially as they get heavier. It can take a lot of effort cranking on a jack to get it raised or lowered to hook it up or disconnect. Additionally, an electric jack like this is gonna help us when it comes to weight distribution. A lot of times you'll have to kind of couple up and then lift a little bit to make it easier to get those bars in place.

It really does a good job of doing that.Something else I like is it's a nice quiet jack. You don't have a whole lot of noise. Of course, when they're going down most of them are pretty quiet, but going up is just the same way, really nice, quiet, smooth operation. A lot of that has to do with the screw design that's inside. Basically you're gonna have ball bearings that are riding on that screw.

That reduces any type of friction that we might have. When we can reduce friction we reduce the noise, but we're also not requiring as much power to raise and lower it.Now on our housing here on the top you'll see the black toggle switch, it's got a waterproof cover on it. Down lowers your coupler, and up is gonna raise it. Just in front of it you can see a small red button. That's for turning on and off our LED's.

We'll turn off the lights and take a look at the effectiveness of those now.Now once we get the lights turned on we can see we've got an LED here in the front. Another one here on the rear corner. This is gonna do a good job of lighting up the area. With just the two LED's I didn't expect it to have that much of an effect, but in this case, I think, especially when it's really dark outside you're not gonna have any issues seeing what you're doing.Now whether you get to the highest or lowest position of the jack, it has clutches built in. They're designed to prevent you from damaging the motor or any of the other components.

We'll run it up and you'll see once it gets to its stop point there, it's just gonna shut off.Now with our jack in the highest position we'll measure the bracket height for you. That's gonna be to the mounting surface. This will give you an idea of the range. Looks like right now that's gonna be at about 32 and a half inches. So, if we take that distance of the drop weight off it's gonna get us down to about 28.Now if for some reason you we're to lose power to the jack, whether that's a dead battery, connection on the truck not working, you can simply pull up the plug located here at the top, insert the crank handle. You can see that's gonna allow you to raise or lower the jack. So, you'll still be able to use it if you do have a power failure. You won't have a trailer stuck on your truck, or not be able to make your connection.Now to ensure that our jack lasts a very long time they really thought about the way they've designed it. We've got our cover here. The seams are on this bottom edge, so water should just run down and off rather than getting inside. We've got our motor here on the front. Then you can see here is the outer tube of the jack. It's a nice durable powder coat finish on it. A lot of times you'll find powder coats are kind of various qualities. This one seems to be really nice. If we look down here on the inner tube, this has the white zinc coating on it. So again, very good corrosion resistance, and then black powder coat here on our footplate.Now the footplate has a diameter of five and a half inches from one side over to the other. That's gonna do a really good job of spreading the energy out over a greater area. Footplates like this are designed to keep the inner tube of the jack, which we have up here, from being forced down in the ground by the weight of our trailer.Now in the lowest position we'll do another bracket height measurement. It looks like that's gonna come in at about 14 and half inches. That gives us that total of 18 inches of travel. Of course, if we we're to drop that drop leg down we'd be right at 10.Now to begin our installation, of course you're gonna need you're old jack removed. We've just supported our trailer with our jack stands to allow us to take that off. The jack is gonna come with new hardware, and depending on how your coupler is set up that's kind of gonna depend on how you attach it. So our coupler is threaded, meaning the holes are threaded. The bolts are gonna thread right in. We're using the bolt they provided and the flat washer, we've just added in a small lock washer. If your holes aren't threaded you'll use your flat washer, bolt, and then the provided nylon locknut.The outer tube on our jack is two and a quarter inches. So we want to ensure that our hole is of that same size. Then we can drop the jack down and in. There are two sets of holes. Those holes will allow you to mount your jack in the traditional style or offset to the driver's side. So if you've got some limitations with space or something like that it can help out with that.We're gonna mount ours in the traditional fashion. We're just gonna get each of our three bolts started. Now with using a 9/16th socket we're gonna snug down our hardware. You'll notice as we tighten those down you're gonna have a little bit of flex on that washer where it makes contact with that weld. Not a big deal at all there. Once those are snug we're gonna get them torqued down.Now the jack has two wires coming out of the housing. The white goes to ground. The black needs to go to 12 volt power. Now traditionally you're gonna two ways to hook this up. You can run these to an onboard battery, white to the negative, black to the positive. If you don't have an onboard battery you can also run this to your junction box or to your seven way plug and pick up your 12 volt power there. Typically, to have power all the time you want to run to a house battery if you have it, if not you can do the truck side, where when you plug it in you then have power to operate. But since this trailer doesn't have a battery onboard large enough to use we're gonna use the power wire coming from our junction box, which is here from our old jack. Then we're just gonna use that stud right here, this self tapping screw, to create our ground. Everything should work really well that way.You want to determine how much wire you're gonna need. You can see you've got excess. Now you can cut this off, or you can simply store it on the jack. I like to tuck it around either the bottom side here of the jack, or the top side here. Kind of get it tucked up and out of the way, so if you ever need it you won't have to add it on, use butt connectors or anything like that.Now we're just gonna be using a small ring terminal for our ground connection here. Get that crimped on. We're gonna mount that right there at that self tapper. Basically, you just want to get this ground connected to the frame of the trailer, the steel portion of the trailer.Then on our power wire coming from our junction box, we're gonna strip that back. Here we're gonna use a heat strength butt connector. I like using heat strengths in this situation because we won't have to worry about corrosion. Eventually corrosion will lead to connection failure there. It's gonna give us superior protection from the elements. Slide that in. Using a butt connector you're likely gonna have to trim that off just a little bit. We'll use a heat source to shrink that down.Now when shrinking this you can use a heat gun, a lighter like what we're doing here, or a mini-torch. The key is not to overheat it. You see as you give it the heat it's gonna start to shrink down. Eventually when it gets shrunk down all the way it's gonna look like that wire is magnified. You see it's pretty thin going on, but inside of that it looks really big. Then there's a little bit of clear gel that comes out of the end. That means you've gotten that shrunk properly. Do the same thing on the other side here. Then with the help of a couple zip ties we'll just tidy up any access wire. Kind of clean it up so it looks neat.Now that we've got it hooked up we'll just operate our button there for our lights and our switch. Everything's working properly. We'll now install that drop leg on it. We'll allow it take the weight of our trailer.Now our drop leg is gonna have four holes in it, meant to line up with the hole on the inner tube there. It's gonna give us a total of four and a half inches of adjustment. Our lower hole here would be all the way up and stored. Then it's gonna be an inch and a half between each one. This can save a lot of time in operating the jack.We'll get it installed here in the lower position, and run it on down.That will complete our look at the Stromberg Carlson Electric A-Frame Trailer Jack. Part number JET-4000NG.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Installed by:
Cole B
Installed by:
Randy B
Video by:
Zach D

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