Stromberg Carlson Electric Trailer Jack Review

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Review of the Stromberg Carlson Electric Trailer Jack

Speaker q: Today I'm going to take a look at and show you how to install the Stromberg Carlson Electric Trailer Jack for A-frame trailers. Now here's what your jack's going to look like installed. Now this is for an A-frame coupler, and generally the idea with these is just easing, coupling and unhooking your trailer from your vehicle. We can simply hit a switch up or down, rather than using that manual crank and wearing ourselves out.Something I like about this jack is it's extremely quiet. Typically, jacks of this nature are about twice this loud. You know, lowering, they're all relatively quiet, but when it comes to raising them, a lot of times there's a big volume increase.Now to operate your jack, we've get our waterproof toggle switch here.

Down is going to lower it. Up is going to raise it. Then, you can also see, just in front, the red button that we have for those LED lights. We'll turn off the lights and get a good idea of just how bright those are.Even though it's not pitch black here, as an example, you can see how bright this light is. As we said before, significantly brighter than what we see on a lot of jacks of this nature.

It's going to do a really good job of not only illuminating the coupler area here, but also the side of the trailer. So, in the dark when you need to hook up that weight distribution and things like that, should have plenty light to get that done.Now the plastic-formed housing is designed as a full wrap here. The seam's around that bottom edge, so that water and stuff getting in isn't going to be an issue. That's going to help to protect our internal gears. It also has a painted finish on it.

That's going to help to resist the UV rays, so after we have our jack installed, after a few years sitting outside, not going to have to worry about all that discoloration or that cracking that we sometimes see.To go along with that, our outer tube is going to have a nice black powder coat finish on it. It seems to be pretty tough. You know, you feel some of these and they feel really thin or really low quality. That doesn't seem to be the case with this one. Then if we'll look at our inner tube, you can see that it's got the white zinc finish, so the black powder coat here, white zinc here, and then our flip plate, with the black powder coat, should last a very long time and really resist any of the corrosion that we see.Not only does the footplate give us our adjustment, so we're going to put less time in with our jack going up and down, but with that large round plate that we have here on the bottom, it dissipates that energy out over a larger area, so even if we're using this in dirt, gravel, things like that, we're not going to have to worry about it sinking down into the ground.Now, if for some reason you we're to lose power to the jack, you're not going to be stuck with the trailer on or not being able to get it connected.

They do provide you with a manual override. Just going to pull the rubber cap on top, place that down and in, and whether you want to raise or lower, you could still get that task accomplished.Now one thing I like about the jack, and something you'll appreciate, is that when it gets to its highest or its lowest position, it's basically going to shut off, so we're not going to do any unnecessary wear to the motor or the gears inside. Once that stops, we'll know we've got it as high as it wants to go.You can see these are separated by an 1-1/2", so we're going to have this as our highest setting, to get our footplate as far as possible, and we can move that down 4-1/2" at the most. Gives us a lot less work for the jack to do.Now with our jack fully extended and the footplate extended, we're going to take a bracket height measurement. It's going to be right up here to the top. Looks like we've got about 31-1/2" there, so if we we're to reduce that by the distance of our drop, it's going to put us right at 27". Now we'll go to the lowest position and check that. Now in the lowest position, our bracket height, it's about 13-1/2", so that would be 9", without the drop plate. Now to ensure that the jack is going to fit in your application, we'll give you a couple measurements here. From our mounting surface or from our bracket, it's about 20" to the top of the jack.Now to begin the installation process, you want to have your old jack removed. Now we're using jack stands to support the tongue of the trailer. You could also leave this connected to your vehicle, if you want to do it that way. The outer tube on the jack's 2-1/4", so we need to ensure that the hole going through our coupler is that size. Then we can just drop it down and through.Now the jack can be placed in your coupler in the traditional manner, like this, or since we have an extra set of holes here, it can be rotated. Now by being able to rotate it, that might allow you to open your tailgate or do things that you couldn't do with that additional link sticking off the front. Since we don't really have that issue, we're just going to mount ours in the traditional manner here. So we'll get those holes lined up.Your coupler will be sometimes threaded. Sometimes it's just an open hole that goes down and through. Ours is threaded, so we're going to use the hex bolt and the flat washer, and then our own lock washer as we thread it down and in. If yours has the hole, you can use the nylon lock nut that's provided with the kit. Just get those into our holes, get them started there. Then we're going to snug these down with a 9/16 socket. Then we'll get each one of them torqued down.Now we'll slide our footplate in place. I'm going to line up the highest hole, or I guess the lowest hole for the footplate here, and then we'll allow that jack to support the weight once we get our wiring installed.Now when wiring up your jack, you've got a couple options on how you can do it. The first would be, and what we're going to do today, is just run this to an onboard battery, so the white needs to go to the negative side. The black needs to go to the positive side. We're going to need to extend these out just a little bit, because our battery's a little bit further than what our wires are going to reach here.You can also run this to your junction box. If you don't have an onboard battery, you can power it through your truck. Just need to get into the 12V power signal coming from the truck, and the white wire you can ground anywhere to your trailer. Generally, we would do something like a ring terminal and a self-tapping screw into a nice solid portion of the metal.To get ours to our battery, like I said, we're going to need to extend these a little bit. We'll show you how to do that now.Now, if you need to extend your wires like we do, basically what we're going to use is a piece of 12-2 wire, and we sell it on our website, part numbers 12-2-1 per foot, so just get the length that you're going to need. We're going to use a couple of heat shrink butt connectors. This is part number DW05745. We've already stripped back and crimped them onto our 12-2 wire. Just add our white to our white. We're going to get it crimped down. Now to the shrink these down, you want to use a heat source. You can use a lighter. You can use a heat gun, or you can use a little mini-torch. The key is just not overheating the connector, just kind of gently heat it, kind of turns clear. You'll see it start to shrink down.You can see here, we've taken just a minute to wrap up our wires, give it a nicer appearance. This is part number 39035. It's a 3/8" wire loom. Just kind of going to going to zip tie it up. You could also just zip tie the wires to the tube of your jack without using the loom. That's completely up to you. You can see it's pretty easy to use. You'll just kind of tuck it in as you go. Now it's ensure that it doesn't come off, let me show you how to do this. Just going to take our tape here, wrap it around our wires a couple times, just like that. Now tuck that into your wire loom. Then once that's tucked down in there, you just wrap your tape around your wire loom. That will keep your wires together inside, also keep your loom from coming apart.Now we're going to continue doing this down to our duplex. You could run it along our trailer and then come up to our battery box. We've got our duplex wire ran up here, to where we can make our connections here at our house battery. Going to get these stripped back. We're going to add a couple of 5/16" ring terminals to those. Those slid on and crimped down, and we just attach them to our studs.Now with that wired up our battery, go ahead and let our jack run down, support the tongue of our trailer. We get our jack stands out of the way, and we're ready to go. And that's going to complete our look at the Stromberg Carlson Electric A-Frame Trailer Jack.

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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Cole B
Installed by:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D

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