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Stromberg Carlson Electric Trailer Jack Review

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Review of the Stromberg Carlson Electric Trailer Jack


Randy: Hey guys, Randy here at etrailer.com again. Today, we're taking a look at the Stromberg Carlson 3500 pound A-frame electric trailer jack. Basically, this jack is something you can either connect to your seven pole coming from your truck or to an onboard battery and really make the job of connecting and disconnecting from trucks much simpler.Smaller utility trailers, things like that, they're generally pretty easy to crank with by hand, but once you get a camper of this size, it can wear you out pretty quick, especially with a weight distribution set-up. With this set-up, you actually have to connect to the ball of your truck and lift that up a little bit to get it set properly. So, we're cranking on a lot of weight. Just a time saver here.

This'll prevent your arm from being worn out and anytime you need to make a little adjustment up or down, all we have to do, hit the button and it gets to work.So, we've got two weather proof switches here on the face of the jack. One is going to be for LED lights, these are on the side. They kind of shine down in the area of our weight distribution and our coupler and these do a pretty fair job. I've seen much brighter lights on jacks, but I've also seen a lot of them much dimmer than this, so it's going to kind of live in the middle of the road there.The other one we have here, down, that's going to lower our coupler and by pulling up, it's going to raise it. We've got our waterproof switcher here.

We're also going to have a waterproof cap here. It has a level in it, but this one in particular, hasn't really matched our trailer. I wouldn't rely on this to be your end all, be all, in trailer leveling.Below that . Turn that off and raise it. It's going to be an O-ring here.

It's going to seal all the way around so moisture can't get in and there's a stud right down in here so we can use our manual crank if our battery we're to fail or if we don't get power to our jack, we're not going to be stuck with it on our truck.There's a full housing here on the top. As you can see, this is going to cover all of our electrical components located inside. The seam is actually down here, so we really don't have to worry about water getting in there. The outer tube on our jack's going to be two and a quarter inches in diameter. It's got a nice heavy duty black powder coat finish on it, so that's going to last for a good long time.

Then, if we look at the inner tube, this is going to be a two inch tube. So, inner tube diameter, two inches, and you can see that, the pin and clip, and our drop leg are all in a white zinc finish. So, we're not going to have to worry about corrosion there either. This jack should really work for a very, very long time.The drop leg's going to help us out in the fact it gives us four and a half inches of drop, so our jack won't have to travel that distance, but it's also five and a half inches in diameter. That larger area's going to dissipate the energy from our trailer tongue over a greater area. That's really going to help to reduce sinking into softer ground.Now, as far as the noise from our jack, it's really pretty quiet. I've heard louder jacks out there and I've heard some quieter jacks out there. The thing that's surprising is when it's lower and not doing the work, that's when it tends to be a little bit louder. As we raise it, it quiets down. So, that's going to be lowering and then raising.To being your installation process for your new jack, of course you'll want to have your old jack removed and then we'll need to take our drop leg off. It's just got a pin here at the bottom. Pull that keeper off, remove the pin, we'll set it aside, we'll get that drop leg out of the way. At that point, we can drop our outer tube down through our hole. Now, this is two and a quarter inches, so we want to ensure that we've got that kind of space.Once we have that in position, we'll want to align the three oblong holes with the three holes in our coupler. Then, we're able to take one of our provided bolts and star washer. We're going to thread that down and in. I like to just get these started initially, that way we can move our jack a little bit if we need to, to get them to line up. Then, with the three of those started, let's get these snug down. Then, using our torque wrench, we'll get them torqued down to the specifications, which you'll find listed in your instructions.Once our jack's torqued down, we're just going to put our drop leg back on there and pin it back into place. Now, we can get our power wire ran. Something I like to do when I run these, is wrap it around the base of my jack here a couple times. Let's say it gets hung on something and we rip the fuse holder, we do any kind of damage and we need to replace it, it's nice to have a little bit of extra wire up here just to take back to the back there.The other end here, we need to route that back towards our onboard battery. Now, if you didn't have an onboard battery, you can also power this jack directly through the seven pole coming from your truck. You'll just want to run your wire either to your seven pole plug wire to the 12 volt power source or if you're using a junction box, just run it into that power side of the junction box.Then, use plenty of zip ties to keep everything nice and tidy. That way we don't have to worry about our wire rubbing up against anything, having any kind of damage. All right, now on the end of the wire from our jack we didn't cut ours off, so we're going to have our soldered connection there. You can trim this wire back to the length you need, just be sure to strip off the end to expose the wire and then we'll slide our heat shrink butt connector down and on. Once we have that in place, we'll crimp that down, make sure it's good and secure, and then we want to grab our fuse holder here. You'll want to take the fuse out to start with, let's just have that out, reconnect here and then we need to trim this. I'm going to cut it about right here, say 4:30, 5:00 position. Then, both sides of that we'll want to strip back.Now, we're going to grab a ring terminal, that's going to go on the shorter side. See we've got a shorter lead and a longer lead, so that goes on the shorter side there. That'll keep our fuse real close to out battery. The other end here, it's going to go to the other side of our butt connector. This butt connector is provided with the jack and I like that they send a heat shrink butt connector. Unlike some of the other ones, they're just going to give you a standard butt connector that can lead to moisture getting in there. Generally if I'm just doing one or two, I'll use a lighter. Just don't overheat it, gently heat it around. You'll see how it starts to shrink there.Now I'm just going to loosen up the terminal here on my battery, place the ring terminal on and replace the hardware holding it in place and let our fuse back in. Now with it hooked up, let's just test it out. You see our lights are coming on and off fine. Switch that to the up position, just let that go down. You can see we've extended that drop leg a little bit. Let it support the weight of our trailer and then at that point, we'll take our jack stands out.That's going to complete our look at the Stromberg Carlson 3500 pound A-frame electric trailer jack.


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