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RoadMaster Tow Dolly with Electric Brakes Review

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Review of the RoadMaster Tow Dolly with Electric Brakes


Today we're going to be taking a look at the Roadmaster Tow Dolly with electric brakes, part number RM-2000-1. You need to haul your vehicle, but you don't to make any modifications to it like adding a base plate. The Roadmaster Tow Dolly is perfect for you. It's going to allow you tow a vehicle up to 4,380 pounds, with a tire-to-tire width of up to 76". It features self-steering wheels with a stabilizer to make the dolly more maneuverable, so it can easily track your RV. It comes standard with electric brakes to make stopping easier, and less strenuous on your RV. You will, however, need to trade out your 4-pole connection for a 6-round or a 7-way.

You'll also want to make sure that your towing vehicle is set up with an electric brake controller. Your vehicle is held in place with the included wheel nets, and they are adjustable to fit most tires. Additionally, two safety chains help secure your vehicle in a catastrophic event. We've gone ahead and removed the vehicle so we can go over some additional features. Here you can see the wheel cradles that are going to help keep our tires situated in place. Both the cradle and the ramp feature raised treads for added traction.

The dual pin latch insures the ramps stay engaged even if one pin fails. The locking storage compartments are not only a great place to keep your safety chains, but they're also a great way to store your accessories. The trailer comes complete with amber side marker lights, turn, brake, and running lights, three additional red warning lights, and a license plate bracket with license plate light. If you need lights for your tow vehicle we recommend part number TL21RK. Our tires are protected by a steel fender with mud flaps. The trailer comes with two 215 75 R14 radial tires.

The trailer features Accu-lube hubs that let you easily add grease to the bearing through the grease fitting. The trailer width is adjustable, at it's narrow position it's 93 1/2", at it's widest position it's 101 1/2". The trailer's overall length is 136". The ramps are also adjustable, at it's narrowest position it's 40" outer edge to outer edge, at it's widest position it's 76" outer edge to outer edge. The ramps themselves with accommodate a tire up to 16" wide. Now that we've gone over the features we'll go ahead and show you how to to use it.

The first thing we need to do is make sure that our camper is on a level surface, and that the parking and emergency brake is on. We also need to make sure that our tow dolly is in line with the camper, or the RV. We're just about ready to hook it up. We need to make sure that we have a ball height between 17" and 19". We'll go ahead measure that and see what we've got. We've got about 18 14", so we're perfect. Let's go ahead and lift our coupler up. For this coupler you need to make sure that you have a 2" ball, and we're going to set that in place, and then lock it down, just like that. Let's connect our wiring harness. Keep in mind that this is 4-pole connection, so we'll plug it in. Now we can hook up our safety chains. For our safety chains we had to make sure that they're run in a cross pattern underneath the tongue, so we're going to be running the right one to the left side like this, and then the left one to the right side. We'll be using the included quick-links to connect them together, and then we can tighten that down. We'll repeat that same process for the right side there, perfect. Let's remove the steering safety pin. This is going to allow the wheels to pivot back and forth as we go around corners, or steer. If we we're to just be towing the dolly itself, we would want to leave this in place. Let's turn our attention to the tilt bed lever. Once we pull this up this is going to allow the ramps to drop down towards the ground, that way we can easily line and pull up our vehicle. We'll pull that loose, and you may have to apply additional pressure to get them down to the ground. Once we get our tires up into the two cradles it will put enough weight on it to close and latch automatically. Let's go ahead and pull on. It's not a bad idea to get an extra set of hands, that way you can do it safely. Underneath the vehicle here you can see that I've pulled on, and you'll know that you've pulled on far enough when the U-safety pin here is latched on top of the deck, as you see it here. You always want to make sure that this is done before you move any further. During transportation your steering wheel will need to be immobilized. If it does not lock, we recommend getting part number WICL303RED, and that's going to keep it from moving back and forth. We need to connect the bed safety chains, and those are going to be located underneath here. Those have quick-links as well, so we'll need to undo that. We need to connect it to a secure point underneath our vehicle. When we do so we need to leave a little bit of slack in there to leave room for the suspension to go up and down as we're on the road. I'm going to connect them to here, it's going to go through and then back over, and connect it to itself. When we get this one done we can repeat that same process on the other side, which is going to be our passenger side. We can secure our car to our tow dolly, and the way we're going to do that is we're going to use the included tie-down straps. There's one for each specific side. The important thing we need to make sure is that our hook is always facing towards the rear. We're going to set it in place, the top strap is going to go over our tire. What we want to do is get this portion here with the loose strap in the front at the 3 o'clock position here, basically the center of the tire. The other side with the buckle at the 9 o'clock position. Once we get it set up we can pull our buckle tight. When securing your hook you'll want to use the slot that's closest to the center of the tire, which will be our center one here. We'll pull our buckle the rest of the way tight. Let's go up to the front. Our ratchet here in the front is adjustable from side-to-side, and again, you'll want to be sure that that is centered with the tire. We'll feed our strap down through, we'll want to be sure and unlock the ratchet. Press in and then bring it out. Feed that all the way down through, and then we can ratchet it up. Then they'll lock it down, we'll close it up like that. Now that we've got everything all hooked up we're just about ready to hit the road. A few things to go over is it's not a bad idea to check your lights and your brakes if you've got them hooked up. If your vehicle is front wheel drive you'll want to be sure and put it in park. If it's rear wheel drive you want to make sure it can be pulled with the rear wheels on the ground without damaging the transmission. If the towed car's emergency brake's applied to the front wheels set the emergency brake. Do not set the emergency brake if they apply to the rear wheels. When you reach your destination and you're ready to unload, or disconnect, you want to first make sure that your RV and your vehicle are inline with one another, and on a level ground. Let's disconnect our safety chains from our vehicle. Next we can unlock the ratchet and remove the wheel nets. The way we'll want to do that is we'll want to pull down on this lever here to unlock the ratchet, we'll raise it all the way up until it breaks loose, just like that. Then we can grab our loose strap back here, and simply pull on it until it unravels. Then we'll finish pulling it out, then we can remove the wheel net. I'm going around here, and then onto our hook. Let's pull the bed tilt lever to release the tilt latch. If you've immobilized your steering wheel now's the time to set it free. Now you can slowly back off the dolly while somebody guides you for safety. With the car unloaded we can raise the ramps into the locked position. We can reinsert the steering safety pin. Finally, we can disconnect from our RV. That's going to complete our look at the Roadmaster Tow Dolly with electric brakes, part number RM-2000-1.


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