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Malone MicroSport Trailer with SaddleUp Pro Kayak Carrier Review and Assembly

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Review and Assembly of the Malone MicroSport Trailer with SaddleUp Pro Kayak Carrier

Hey everyone, it's Colin here at eTrailer. Today we're going to take a look at one of our Malone MicroSport trailer kits.In this kit you're going to get the MicroSport trailer itself, you're going to get the spare tire attachment with the spare tire. You're also going to get one of Malone's SaddleUp kayak carriers to mount to your crossbars.With this trailer set up, you're going to be able to haul one of your kayaks to and from your destination. Kind of a bonus of this kit is that with only one SaddleUp carrier, you have plenty of space on the crossbars to fit other accessories. You could probably scoot the kayak over, maybe add a cargo box, couple of bike racks, or even another kayak carrier.Now great thing about this trailer is that we don't have to try and squeeze our kayak into a small space to get it to our destination. In our case, we have a smaller truck right here.

We probably can't fit that in the bed without two or three feet of the kayak hanging out of the back.We can save that bed space for more cargo or more luggage, and we're also creating more space on top of our roof. We could throw a roof rack up there and carry other accessories with us to our destination.Now our SaddleUp carrier is going to have four pivoting saddles on each side of the carrier. They're going to be able to pivot and form to the hole of your kayak.We're also going to have nice rubber padding on the carriers. That's going to help make sure it doesn't cause any type of scratches or abrasions on our kayak. The saddles are also going to be made up of a thick rubber pad right here, which is going to help protect your kayak from any damage.This trailer is also going to make it a lot easier to load and unload your kayaks; instead of having to muscle it up over your head and then try to get it on your roof rack, it's at hip level right now.It's very easy for me just to grab it from behind and just pull it right off.

Don't have to worry about getting above my head, possibly dropping it. You don't have to worry about grabbing that extra set of hands.The two back saddles on our carrier are going to have these hook and loop sleeves over top of them, which that's going to assist you with loading up your kayak from the back. The rubber won't catch onto your tire, making it very hard to push it up and on.You can see when I try to push the kayak from this side with the rubber pads, just very hard to scoot it along, which is good because you want to make sure that your kayak does have some grip to it when you're traveling. Whereas on the back it just slides right off, making it very easy to load and unload.Now, no matter what kind of carrier you have on your trailer, it's going to be a lot easier to secure your cargo when compared to putting it on your roof rack. Up there you just got to climb on your tire, reach over the roof, try to get that all secure while trying to keep your balance and something could happen.From here, all we have to do is just toss it over our kayak, lay it right here.

If I really need to, I can just step over to the other side with ease, bring it under my cross bar and then back around. Now we just go under the crossbar, making sure to stay on the inside of our saddles.You can see we have this nice felt material right here that's sitting between the buckle and kayak. It's going to make sure that that buckle doesn't harm or scratch the finish of your kayak. I just sent you down and tie off the excess.The trailer is also going to be very easy to hook up and unhook from your vehicle. At the end of a long day on the water, the last thing you probably want to do is get home and unload your kayak, whether it's from your trailer or even from your roof rack.Now with this system, we can just come in here and unlock our coupler, get both of our safety chains on hooked.

We'll hang those on the tongue of our trailer, and then our wiring harness.Now you can see right here on our vehicle we have a seven pole connector, this is going to require a four pole connection. If you don't have that, you can pick up an adapter here at eTrailer to make sure the wiring works with your vehicle.Now from here, instead of having to worry about unloading your kayak, we can just grab the handle that's on our coupler, pick it up. The trailer is going to be light enough to just push into your garage and that kayak is going to be ready to go from the next time you want to use it.Now we have our trailer inside and unloaded so we can have a closer look at it. It is going to have an all galvanized steel construction to it, that's going to help resist rust and corrosion, and it's going to be very durable.Some other trailers out there might have plastic components in them such as these fenders, but these are also going to be steel as well. That's just going to help make sure that those components don't wear down or break sooner than they're supposed to, making sure you don't have to replace them. It's really just going to last a lot longer than those other ones.The lighting is also going to be very easy to get installed and it's very easy to operate. You see we had to run through the frame right here with the included clips. We got it all organized onto the frame, and then when we got back to the lights we just had these bullet connectors to plug into our lights and then they we're good to go.Both of our tires and the spare are going to be good for speeds up to 75 miles per hour, so this trailer is going to do just fine on the highway. Then our steel fenders are going to help make sure that our tires don't throw up any mud, dirt, or debris onto our kayak.We're also going to have two leaf springs attached to our axle. That's going to help absorb a lot of the impacts that you might encounter while on the road. It's also going to help handle a lot of the road vibration that you might experience at highway speeds.Our spare tire is going to be mounted at the spot of our trailer where the tongue meets the rest of the frame. That's going to be the spot with the most surface area that our tire can make contact with, so it will be stable. We're also going to have a U-bolt which comes up from the bottom and comes through two of our lug nut holes. We're going to have two threaded brackets, which tighten down onto the tire, and that's going to make sure that it stays secure.Once you have it all secure, you can use a padlock if you want or we sell some separately here at eTrailer, to lock up your two brackets, making sure no one can take your tire without that key.Now it's pretty important to have this spare tire, you just never know what you could run into on the road. For some reason you're on the road and all of a sudden you blow a tire, the last thing you want to do is unhook your trailer and then have to leave all your equipment behind, try to find a new one, or a patch for your damaged tire. With the spare, you are going to be able to get it off your trailer very easy, replace the damaged one and be on your way.Our led lighting system is going to be very bright. We're just going to make it very visible, even during the day. It's also going to be fully submergible, so if you wanted to, you could back this trailer all the way into the water and release your kayaks from there if you don't want to have to carry them all the way down.It's also going to have a light under our driver's side tail light that's going to illuminate our license plate, making sure that's visible at night. We're also going to have two side-marker led amber lights, which are going to make great auxiliary safety lights.Now overall, this trailer is going to be very strong and durable. It's going to resist rusting, corrosion, and last a long time. It is a great solution for if you don't have any space on top of your roof or even in your trunk to get your kayak loaded.It's also going to be very easy to load and unload your kayaks rather than having to get them above your head and risk maybe dropping it or even falling.It's also going to be pretty easy to put together. It may take you a little bit of time, but as long as you follow the instructions, or even along with this video, you shouldn't have too difficult of a time.Let's go ahead and show you how to do that right now. The first thing we did was we set up the frame how it's going to be put together. You might notice that we do have it upside down. We're going to put it together that way so that's a little bit easier to get the spring and axle assembly installed.Now the first thing you want to do is get the brackets for our spring and axle assembly installed. The C shaped ones are going to go on the back of our trailer, while the U shaped ones go on the front.They're all going to bolt together the same way. You can see right here, just the two holes on the frame of the trailer. The bracket sits right on top, then we just drop a couple of bolts through the bracket in the frame of the trailer, make a couple of locknuts and thread them on. You want to make sure you're installing the lock nuts on the inside of the frame of the trailer. Now we'll just grab our wrench and socket and tighten it down.Now at the front end of the tongue of our trailer, we're going to feed our wiring that's going to go all the way through the tongue and towards the frame of the trailer.How we know that we have the front end is one, there's a sticker right here. The warning sticker is going to go towards the front of the tongue. We also have that triangle set of holes right there, that also what let's us know it's the front. We're just going to let gravity do the work and just feed the wire all the way through.Now we have it out the other end, just going to feed it through the connecting bracket right here, just leave it right there. Now we're going to take the bolts included in our kit, this is going to be the longest bolt of your assembly. We're just going to pull the frame, line it up inside that bracket. Because our trailer is upside down right now, we're going to pick it up and then feed it through the bottom, just like that. Now we'll get a flat washer and a lock nut, and all we're going to do is hand tighten it for now.Now we have the bracket slid in, we're just going to get the carriage bolts installed on the bracket. On the inside will go flat washer and lock nut, just like the bracket bolt, we're just going to hand tighten for now. Then repeat this for the other side.Now we'll just apply a flat washer to our bolts and feed them through the two slots connecting to the tongue of our trailer to the frame. Go flat washer on both sides again, and then hand tighten our locknuts.With our carriage bolts, we're now going to get the center beams installed on the frame with the lock nuts on the inside, just hand tightened. Make sure you go around and get the other six hand tighten as well.Now we're going to go around and get all the bolts tightened down. We're going to start here at the back with the carriage bolts on the center beams on our frame, and then make our way up towards the tongue of the trailer.Now we can go ahead and assemble our spring and axle assembly. There's going to be a bolt right here, goes into the hole on our axle. Then we'll put the U-bolt plate on that knob. We'll bring our U-bolts up through the bottom, and then put two lock nuts on. Do our second U-bolt, and now we'll just tighten everything down. Now we'll repeat this process for the other side, making sure we set this spring and the exact same formation.Now we'll set our assembly in place, making sure to get the flat part of the springs into the C brackets, and then the eye holes of our springs into the U brackets. Now we'll feed the bolts through the eyes of our springs, get the lock nut on and tighten on both sides.Now we're ready to get our wheels installed. While the frame is so upset down, I'm going to take our hubcap first and slide it through the back of the wheel like so. That'll catch on the sides. We'll put it on the axle of our trailer.Now we can get our lug nuts hand tightened. Now in a star pattern, we'll go around and tighten down all of our lug nuts. Then repeat this process for the other side.Now we're going to get the lights and brackets assembled. The brackets right here are going to go on the side of our trailer. You see the big hole right there is where our light is going to go.Just put it on the side, stick a couple of bolts in there. Now let's put some lock nuts on and tighten down. On the driver's side of your trailer, don't forget once you get the bolts through the slots, to put your license plate holder on there as well.I will plug in the wiring from the tongue of our trailer to the wiring that's going to go back to our lights. From there, just make sure you run the appropriate wires to the appropriate lights. Then don't forget to clip your wiring to the sides to make sure it stays out of the way.Now you will have a little bit left over right by the bracket, which is connecting both the sides. However, make sure you don't get the two heads right here inside the tongue of the trailer.That bolt right there is to prevent them from being pulled by the other side and disconnecting your wires. If you want, you can just grab a zip tie, put it right there, and then zip tie it up to clean it up a little bit.When installing the brackets on your fenders, what's going to set it from the bottom, apply our bolts through the top, hold them there, and then apply our lock nuts. Then repeat this for the other side.Now with a flathead screwdriver, we're going to hold the other side of the bolt in place, and then tighten down all four bolts. Now with a flat washer and a bolt, we're just going to feed it through that center hole right there, and then apply another flat washer and a lock nut. Do that for both sides. Now we'll just tighten up all the bolts.Now on our coupler and safety chains, we'll get the safety chains installed first. We have a flat washer, and the ends of our two chains on there, we'll push it up through that bracket and hold it there. Then we'll just apply a flat washer and a lock nut. Just get that threaded on there and tighten down, and now we'll tighten it down all the way.Now with our coupler, we'll just set that down and line it up with the holes. Before we install the bolts, you want to pick which side the handle goes on. It doesn't necessarily matter too much, just whatever you feel more comfortable with. We'll apply the bolt through the handle and then through the coupler. Get it all the way through and then the other bolts, and then apply locknuts to the other side. Now we'll tighten everything down.Now we're going to start assembling our upper deck with the cross bars. The support bar is going to go one on the back end of the trailer, the other one's going to go about 48 inches up towards the front.We just drop our U-bolt on top, bring the plate, and then we'll put two lock nuts on. Once you have it set where you want it, we'll tighten everything down.Now we have one of our crossbars just sitting on top of the support bar right here, we're going to take these brackets, it's going to go over top like so. Make sure you line up the bottom holes with the bolt all the way through. Now we'll put a lock nut on there.Now with the cross bar, what we're going to do is that's going to come straight up and the second bolt is going to sit right under it. Do this for both sides. Then we'll go around and tighten all four bolts.Now on both your cross bars, be sure that the one hole on the outside of each side of the bar is facing towards the inside of the trailer.Now a final step is going to be to get our D-rings installed in those holes. We're just going to apply a flat washer and then put the bolt through there. Now I'm going to slide my finger in and line it up with that hole, and then start to thread it on there.Once you've gone as far as you can with your hands, what I'm going to do, this is a nice little trick; take a pair of needle nose pliers, we're going to feed the pliers in, and clamp down on that locknut. Get a good grip, now we'll tighten it down.Doesn't have to be super tight, you can see it's pretty snug. Now just repeat this step for all the other and put your end caps on.When installing your saddles, the bottom is going to have a groove in it that's going to help make sure that it's sitting flush on your crossbar. We already have our rubber coated bracket partially installed. We're just going to install the rest of it.We'll just set it down on top. Now we'll drive a bolt through the top right there and then we'll feed the bracket over the bolts, get our wing nut installed. Then we just tighten both down, doesn't have to be super tight, just snug. Then you repeat this process for the other three saddles.Thank you all for watching, that's going to do it for a look at the Malone MicroSport trailer.

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