Malone MicroSport LowBed 2 Tier Trailer Review and Assembly

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Review and Assembly of the Malone MicroSport LowBed 2 Tier Trailer


Collin: Hey everyone, it's Collin here at etrailer.com and today we're going to take a look at Malone's MicroSport LowBed Trailer with the second tier. Now, this trailer is a great option for getting that extra cargo, or even that bigger equipment like our kayaks, loaded and taken with you on your trip when you might not be able to fit it in your vehicle. So, as you can see right away, the feature that stands out on this is that it has a second tier above that low bed. It's going to basically be a roof rack on top of your trailer. It's going to have two 50 inch crossbars for you to get your cargo up here. We've got our Malone box right here, and then two bikes on the other side.As you can see, with that second tier we've got all of our lighter stuff loaded on top, and that's creating more space down low for other stuff.

We got our two kayaks right here, but we have enough space to even put a couple more kayaks on if we want. Now, our bottom tier is going to have a weight capacity of 800 pounds, so that's more than enough capacity to get your heavier kayaks and canoes loaded on top. It's going to able to hold kayaks, canoes up to 20 feet long, and then we go up to the top and we're going to have a weight capacity of just 100 pounds. We are riding close to that weight capacity as it is, with our box loaded, and with our bike racks up there and loaded, so just make sure you are mindful of that, and that you do your math and make sure you're not over that limit.Now, what's really awesome about this trailer is that it's very lightweight, so it's going to be easy to handle by yourself. It's going to have this nice handle that's bolted onto our coupler, with this nice rubber grip right here to help you with moving it around so your hand doesn't slip at all.

Moving it on your own is very possible. You just unplug your wiring, wrap that around, get your safety chains off. Then we're going to unlock our coupler, just pull that trigger right there and pull it up, that unlocks it. When it's locked you're not going to be able to pull it off of the ball. Unlocked, we can pick it up off the trailer and then move it to wherever we need to.

When loading it up just bring it, set it on top of your two inch ball, lock it down, and then don't forget to get all your safety hooks and wiring attached.What's awesome about this low bed of the trailer, and having our kayaks loaded on it, is that it's not as hard to get our kayaks loaded and unloaded when we get to our destination. Not going to have to reach up on top of my roof and pull it down, possibly injuring myself if I drop it. It's just right at my chest length, so I can just pick it up and off the kayak carrier, and be on my way. Another awesome feature about this trailer is that it is fully submergable, including the LED lighting system. If you got some bigger fishing kayaks, or some canoes loaded flat on top of the lower bed, you can just lower it all the way into the water, just cast your kayaks or canoes off, and then pull back out of the water.Now, something I thought about right when I saw this trailer loaded up like this, I thought about how, after a long day of being outdoors, maybe you did some kayaking, you went biking as well, just a really fun day, but you get home, you're really tired.

You're just drained, you want to go to bed. We can just get all of our cargo and our equipment into our cargo box, like our paddles and our helmets, and stuff like that. And instead of unloading all of our equipment, we'll just get it right off of our hitch, and wheel it into our garage. It's going to be ready to go for next time.Now, the trailer does not come with a jack of any kind, but it does have this little stand right here with this bracket. We can just set it down on top of that, and that'll keep it in place. Now, after unloading all our gear we've gone ahead and removed all of our racks so we could take a closer look at the trailer in our garage. Now, the entire trailer has a pre-galvanized steel construction. The brackets are going to be a little bit thicker, a little heavier gauge steel, just so it can support the weight of holding the upper tier together, as well as the lower crossbars.Now we're going to go ahead and give you a few measurements, just so you can get an idea of the space this trailer might take up, especially for storage purposes. Now, the height of the trailer from the top of the top crossbar to the ground is going to be 58 inches. The width of the trailer with the lower crossbars installed is going to be 78 inches. If you have those crossbars removed, from the outside of the wheel well to the outside of the wheel well is going to be 55 inches. Now, the overall length of the trailer is going to be 13 feet and three inches. That's relevant, because that's how much you've added to the back of your vehicle. Keep in mind that if you have a long canoe or kayak on it, that is going to take up more space on the back. Just something to keep in mind.Now, on each corner of all of our crossbars we're going to have these nice D-rings that are going to make for great tie down points. They're going to be very mobile, be able to move around and adjust to however you need it to secure your cargo. Not only are we going to have it for the lower crossbars, we're also going to have four more up top to secure any cargo we want to stack on top of the top tier. Now, our bottom crossbars are going to be 70 inches long. So, that's going to be more than enough space, as you saw, to get our kayaks and our canoes loaded on top and secured. You are losing a little bit of space with these plates that are sandwiching our bottom crossbars. However, with that being said, you're adding two more 50 inch crossbars up top, so that's again, a lot of space to be able to get your lighter cargo up on top of the second tier to make more space down low for the bigger equipment.Now, our tires that come in our kit are going to be size ST145/R12. That's information that's handy for in case you want to pick up a spare to have with you at all times, in case something we're to happen to your tires on the road. That being said, they're still going to be able to handle highway speeds very well. And we also do sell a spare tire mount to put on the tongue of your trailer. You can find that here at eTrailer. Now, our wheel wells are also made out of that pre-galvanized steel, going to be very tough and durable. They do actually serve a purpose, as well as making the trailer look good. It is going to help prevent a lot of that mud and other road debris being slung up onto your canoes and kayaks that are loaded. Keep in mind that the stuff that's hanging off the back a lot, it doesn't necessarily protect that, as well as the base of it sitting on the trailer.And we are going to be equipped with two leaf springs right here to help absorb a lot of the vibration from traveling at highway speeds, as well as taking in a lot of the impact from hitting some bumps on the road. Now, what's kind of cool about our top crossbar is that the rear one can actually be adjusted back and forth to accommodate your crossbar spread in case you have an accessory, which requires a smaller or a larger spread. You just loosen up these three bolts right here, and the bracket can slide all the way back here to the rear, or it can go as far up as you need it to for your specific accessory. Now, our wiring harnesses are going to come preassembled. All you have to do is route it through the tongue of your trailer, and all the way to the back to your taillights, and then the bullet connectors are going to be very nice and easy to get installed. Just plug and play and you're good to go. You can see how easy it is just to take apart and put it back together.Now, we're also going to have a lot of these clips that we can use to get our wiring nice and neat onto our trailer frame. We're not going to have to worry about the wires coming off at all, maybe getting caught in the wheel or something like that. Here we have a quick look at our taillights, you can see they're going to be very bright, whether it's day or nighttime, they're going to be very visible, and they're going to operate with the same functions as your vehicle lights as far as blinker and brakes and stuff like that. Now, under our driver's side taillight, we are going to have another light that is shining on our license plate to make that visible. The entire LED lighting system is going to be Department of Transportation compliant in all 50 states, and in Transport Canada.Now, we have our lights on in our garage, and you can still see the LED lights are very bright. That means driving in the daytime is not going to be any hassle at all. You're not going to have any problem with visibility when you're braking or turning. Now, on each side of our trailer we are going to have this nice, square amber light, which is going to work in conjunction with the turning signals and brake lights on our vehicle.As far as assembling the trailer, it may take you a little bit of time. But, if you just follow along with Malone's instructions, or if you just want to follow along with this video, you should get it done in reasonable amount of time. So we'll go ahead and show you how to do that now. Per the instructions, we have our frame laid out for the trailer in the formation that it specifies. One thing I do want to make sure you guys know is that you want the trailer upside down to start. You see the Malone's sticker is upside down, this is going to make assembly a lot easier for when you get to the tires. You're just going to be able to flip it right over after you get those installed.First thing you want to do is get your spring hanger brackets set in the right place, going to be on the top of the frame right here. The open U shaped bracket is going to be towards the front of the trailer, while the C shaped one is going to be at the back. The hardware is included. Now, if you're worried about what hardware to use at certain steps in the process, in the instructions, it does tell you the bag number of hardware to use for each specific step, so as long as you look at those, you're going to be all right when getting the hardware together. Drop the bolt in right there, bring the nut in on the other side, just get it threaded. Now, we'll grab our 9/16ths socket and wrench and tighten it down. Now, quick little tip. When you first get your brackets installed, you want to make sure that the frame crossmember right here is on the other side of them. It'll just be a lot easier to get it in place to slide in without those bolts being in the way.Now we've gone up to the front of the trailer. How you know that you have this in the right configuration, that being the tongue, you just need the three hole side upside down on the left drivers side. Now, what we're going to do is take our plug and our wiring and drop it through the top and feed it all the way back. We can push it like this, or if it's easier, you can go ahead and pick up this side of the tongue and let gravity do its job. You do want to make sure you leave enough excess at the top so that the wiring can reach the back of the vehicle. Here at the back, we'll just pull it all the way through until we deem we have enough at the front. Now, we also need to pass our wiring through our rear tongue support bracket. Should be facing this way, that little indent is where the rear of our tongue's going to go. We'll just take our plug, pass it through all the way, up to this point.Now, throughout this process it's going to be a good idea to get all of your frame ends lined up as you go. So you can see right here, we have the two integrated holes, that's going to be for these two at the front of our frame. Also, same back here with our rear support bracket. The two holes on the ends, right here, going to go down here. Now, we're going to take that rear support bracket, put it on the rear of our tongue, and we'll grab the four and a half inch bolts, bring it up from the bottom. All the way through. Then a front washer and a locknut, thread that on. Now, you really want to make sure you get only hand tools, we don't want to use power tools right here. So we just have a socket and wrench, and we'll tighten it down.Now, from here we need to get our rear support bracket lined up with the holes on our frame. We need to scoot it up, just make sure we get it all in line. Once you have the frame support lined up with the holes, going to install the carriage bolts, and then apply front washers to both and then locknuts to both. Now we're going to grab our wrench and tighten it down. Make sure you don't use any power tools, it's supposed to be hand tightened. You'll repeat this process for the other side. Now from here, we're going to go ahead and take our three-quarter inch bolts, apply front washer, bring it through the frame and the rear of the tongue should be lined up correctly. If not you may have to go back and loosen up the tongue end support bracket bolts. Bring it all the way through to the other side. From there, take another flat washer, put it on the bolt, and a locknut. And then tighten it down. And do the same thing with the other bolt.Now, we're going to get the crossmembers in place. Again, we already have that front one installed from when we put the brackets on to help out for this step. You want to make sure that the rear one has that Malone's sticker, and again, make it upside down, because right now we're installing the trailer upside down. Going to slide it in place. This one's going to be at the very back. I'm going to get it just even. There we go. Line up the holes correctly. Now, with both crossmembers lined up with the holes, we're going to take our carriage bolts, feed those through. We're not going to need washers for these, once you get both the carriage bolts through, just grab your locknuts, thread those on. Now, I'm going to go around and get all of these pre-installed, and then tighten down all at once. Going to grab my wrench, make sure you hand tighten these down. I'm just going to go around, tighten them all down.Now, we have our axle and spring assembled, we're going to go ahead and get the springs attached to our axle. All we're going to do is take this center nut, and get it in the center hole, that's preassembled into our axle. Getting the first one installed, there's no specific way you have to set the spring, just make sure you get the other one set the same way. From there, we're just going to set our plate on top, and bring our U-bolts up and through. Just going to thread on our locknuts, do the same for the other side. Now from here, we're going to hand tighten it. Just grab our wrench, tighten down. We're not going to tighten it down all the way until we have each bolt and nut down all the way. Now again, you just want the nuts touching the plate, you're going to want to have the spring to wiggle, have that wiggle room so you can get it in place later.Once they make contact with the plate, move onto the next one. Make sure you get that the same way. So you can see right now, my spring cannot wiggle, that means I overtightened them, one of them, which I'm pretty sure is this one. Loosen that to see what happens. Yep, right there I have the wiggle room. I'll just repeat this process with the other spring. And again, make sure you get the spring facing the same way as this one.Now, we're going to set our spring and axle assembly into place. We're going to have the flat edge of the spring in this C-bracket, and then the rounded part in the U-bracket. So we're going to slide that flat part in, this is where the wiggle room comes into play, just so you can move it around, adjust it as you see fit. You just make sure you line up all the holes. Now, once we have our spring into place, we're going to get that eye lined up with the holes on our bracket. Slide that bolt all the way through, grab a locknut, get it on there. Now, when you tighten it down, you're only going to go until it's making contact with the face of this bracket. So don't use any power tools, just grab a socket wrench. When tightening this down, it's a good idea just to keep this socket a little bit off of the locknut right there, just so you can see when it makes contact. Make sure you keep that side pushed down as well. There we go. Now, repeat this process for the other side.Now, that we have our spring and axle assembly attached to our frame, we're going to go back and tighten down the U-bolts to our plate. The easiest way to do that is just to do a couple turns on each bolt so it gets as even as possible. We're going to go until we have a slight bend on our tie plate. See, we have that slight bend on our plate, so just repeat this process on the other side. Now, we're going to get our tires installed onto our axle. We're first going to take this hubcap, we snapped in the cap onto the hub, we're going to push it through like so, from the back. Then we're going to grab it, get it lined up with the bolts on our axle. You may have to lift up a little bit on the frame. Once you have all the bolts through the holes, we're just going to thread on our lug nuts. We're only going to hand tighten the lug nuts for now.Now, we're going to go down and tighten down all of our lug nuts. There is a certain specification that they want them torqued to, it's in the instructions. If you have a wrench, like this one, where you can have it set to that certain amount, that's good. If not, just tighten it down pretty snug in a star pattern. We've already gone in a star pattern, this is our last one so we're just going to tighten it down to the specifications. There we go. Then, just repeat this process for the other side.Now, we're going to attach the brackets that will hold our rear lights. What we're going to do is just line it up with these two holes right now, insert our carriage bolts on both sides. You want to make sure you get that square lined up, then we'll take locknuts and thread them on both sides. Then we'll just tighten them down all the way. Now, you need to remove the hardware from your lights, go ahead and insert it into the slots right there, you want to make sure that the wires inaudible 00:17:40 on top, and we'll thread those nuts back on. As tight as you can get them. Now, we'll just tighten them down. No need to overtighten, just get them pretty snug. Now, we'll move onto the other side.Now, the driver's side is going to install the exact same way. The only difference being, they have it set up for the license plate holder to go under the driver's side light. There is going to be a light underneath it so that you are illuminating your license plate. The only you just want to make sure you do is get the license plate onto these bolts of the light before you put those nuts back on.Now, we'll move on to the amber side lights. You want to make sure you take off that hardware real quick. Now what's going to happen is this center bolt is going to go through that center hole, and you want to feed the wires one through each. The easiest way to do it to where you're going to get a fresh look is have this white wire go through that hole. And you want to make sure you tuck that brown wire into the backing right here, so that the light will sit flush on the trailer. You want to be careful about that, feed it through. And you want to hold it there and pull the wires through and again, you want to make sure that it's going to stay flush, and you kind of feel around on the bottom. As long as it feels flush, then we'll grab the bolt and put it on the other side. Tighten it down all the way with your hands, then just grab your wrench. Tighten it down all the way. No need to overtighten, just get them pretty snug. Then repeat this process for the other side.Now, with the wiring that's in the tongue of our trailer, we're going to take the other wiring harness and connect it. Now we're going to take the side with the green, white and brown wires and we're going to route that through the passenger's side back to the tail light. We're going to go through the cross members, going to have to go one lead at a time. There's going to be a hole back on the corner of the crossmember. You can just insert the lead through there. You're going to have to go one at a time. Go ahead and just pull it through, like so. Now we're going to have to get these other white and brown ones through as well. Might be a little more tricky because the wire's already through, but just take your time. And now we're going to go back and make our connections at the tail light.Now, you can see we brought the tail light wires through that slot right there. We'll make our connections. You should go green to green, white to white, and brown to brown. Now we're going to back up and also connect the amber light, white to white and brown to brown. Now we'll do the same for the driver's side.Now, you're also going to get a lot of these clips right here. This is going to be helpful for securing your wire to the rail so it's not kind of flopping around at all when you're traveling. All you have to do is when it's spun the right way to where the smaller end is going to go on the rail right here. So we're going to just take the wire, put it up through there like so, and then we'll snap it on. You're going to get 10 of these, and you can put them wherever you choose. I would put 5 on the passenger's side and then 5 on the driver's side.Now, we've gone ahead and assembled our fender. We just took two of the brackets and used these flat headed carriage screws. And then we took the nuts and tightened them down all the way. Now from here it's going to go on the side right above our tire. Just like this, over the hole. And then we're going to take a flat washer with the hardware, feed it through. Might be easier just to go ahead and get one through, set the other side of the fender down on the tire, take a flat washer and a locknut, put it on that side, and just tighten that down. And then lift up the other side once you have it threaded and do the same thing. Now we're going to just tighten it down all the way.Now, we're going to get our safety chains assembled at the tongue of our trailer. Now it's going to be easier to do this if you can get it up on a jack or something like that, just prop it up in the air so you don't have to pick it up. Now what we're going to do is take our bolt right here, put a flat washer on it, feed it through the last link of one of our safety chains, then we're going to put another flat washer on, kind of like sandwiching it, and go through the other safety chain, like so, so we're through both chains.Then we're going to grab our bracket right here. It's going to sit just like this. This little notch is going to go in the second hole, which is down there. Now we'll just bring that bolt up through. Make sure you get the other part of the bracket into the notch, and then on the inside of the tongue we're going to take the locknut and we're going to thread that on. Now we'll just grab our socket and wrench and tighten it all the way up. You do want to make sure you keep that bracket in its slot. Could be a little difficult to do until you get it tightened up. No need to overtighten, just get it pretty snug.Now we're going to get our coupler installed. All we have to do is set that on top of the tongue of our trailer. Now, we're also going to install the handle with it. You can choose whatever side you want it to go on. Doesn't necessarily matter, but we're just going to make sure we line it up with the coupler. Going to grab our inaudible 00:23:22 hardware, slide it through, and take our two locknuts and thread those on. And then tighten it down.Now you want to tighten down until you don't feel any or hear any wobbling or rattling around. You will have to tighten it down until the coupler is sort of pinching down on the tongue right there. Don't overtighten, though. If you overtighten it and warp the tongue at all, that will compromise the functioning of your coupler.And one thing I do want to point out is that Malone only includes their MicroSport instructions, not for the MicroSport LowBed. So the instructions is going to ask if you have the bar which has a curve coming up, kind of raising the height of the bed. Instead, it's going to be the straight bars.Now once you get the rear bar installed, it's just going to sit on that rear support frame right there. Now the second one, which is more towards the front, is going to sit 55 inches from that spot. Doesn't have to be exact, just get it as close as you can. So we'll measure. I'm measuring from the front of that bar to the back of this one. You do want to make sure you measure on both sides so you get the bar to be straight. And before you tighten down your U-bolts all the way, don't be afraid to double-check your measurements.So now we're just going to set the U-bolt over the top of the bar. It's going to kind of go diagonally on the bar around the frame right here. Now we're going to bring our bracket up onto the bolt. You do want to be sure you avoid any of those clips if you have them in that direction. Now we're going to put our locknuts on. And then repeat this process for the other side. Now on both sides, we're going to tighten up the U-bolts until they're just making contact with the frame right there and they're flush with it. We don't want to tighten it all the way just yet, because we want to go back and make our measurements to make sure that the crossbar is still straight. There, now we've got some wiggle room. Now repeat this process for the other side.Now like I said, we're going to go back and measure again. We just want to make sure that our two crossbars are straight and they'll be parallel to each other. Here we go. Now one other thing I want to make sure you guys know is that you do want to measure your overhang on both sides to make sure that's even. So you can kind of pick whatever point you want to. I'll just go to the edge of this U-bolt and measure it up to there. And I'll do that for both sides to make sure that it's even. And there we go, it's even. So now we can go ahead and tighten down on U-bolts all the way.Now we're going to get our top crossbars into place. They're not actually going to sit on top of the U-bolts like it is right now, it's just a nice starting point so it can have somewhere to sit. You want to make sure that the pre-drilled holes are on the sides and not the top and bottom. So now we're going to go in closer towards the trailer to these side holes on the bottom crossbar. Going to set that bracket down on top, like so. And we're going to feed this bolt through that slot and out the other side. And then we're going to put a locknut on it. Now we need to raise up this bar, put the bolt under it like so, so it's going to sit on top of that bolt, and then thread the locknut on. And then do this for the other side.Now before we tighten it down all the way, we're going to measure our overhang to make sure that's even on both sides. Once you've made those adjustments, go ahead and just tighten it down all the way. Once you have everything tightened down, just repeat this process for the other bar.Now last thing we need to do is go ahead and get our D-rings installed so we have some tie down points for whatever we want to load. Now the easiest way to do this is we're going to first feed the bolt through the D-ring. You're going to want the side with the four little indents right there to be touching the crossbar. And what we're going to do is slide our locknut in. Now we're just going to take the bolt and begin to thread it on. Once you get it down as far as you can get it, the directions suggest getting a screwdriver and getting it under your locknut to hold it in place. However, we found that it's easier if you just get a pair of needle nose pliers. We're just going to slide it in so we can grip the top and bottom. If you just use that screwdriver, you could grind away at the sides of your locknut. It could just make it very hard to get out. So once you have a grip on that, we're just going to take our wrench and then tighten it down.Now don't forget to put your end caps on. You're going to have four small ones for the four crossbar ends. Goes in pretty easy. Once you get it in, give it a little force, push it on in, like so. And you're also going to have four bigger ones to put on the crossbar support ends right here. It's going to go on the same way.Now we're going to take the two rear support braces and sandwich the rear crossmember and the crossbar of the trailer. The difference between the rear and the front braces is the front one is going to be shorter, you can see that height difference right there. Now we're just going to get it up front, sandwich it. What's going to happen is one bolt's going to go through the top corner of each and be on top of the brace right there. Be easiest just to get both of those bolts in, so you have something holding itself up. And inaudible 00:29:20 going to take these locknuts and put them on the other side. Now we can get the bottom two bolts in, and the locknuts. We're not going to tighten these down, we're just going to get them hand tightened. Now we're going to take four bolts and locknuts and insert them in these four holes right there. Again you see them, hand tighten, insert them, put the locknut on, do the same for all four.Now we're going to slot our vertical tube down between those two sets of bolts. Want to make sure that one of the pre-drilled holes lines up with the center hole right there. And then take one more bolt and slide it through the braces and the vertical pole. And then put the locknut on, only hand tight.Now complete all of these steps to get that set up on the front crossbar as well.Now we have our tie tube and brace tube and what we're going to do is install the plugs right now on the top ends of them. It's all just the same way as the other end caps. Just get them on top, push down.Now we're going to install the rear brackets on the rear of our tie tube. The rear of the tie tube is going to be the part where you put the plug in. So the brackets are just going to go just like that, kind of sandwiching it. Take the two bolts, feed them through. And apply the locknuts, only hand tight. Now on the same tube we're going to install the front brackets. They're going to look like this. They do have the three holes in a line right there. It's going to sandwich the tube like so. Right here. So let's go ahead and get the bolts up and through.Now because everything is loose, you're going to want an extra set of hands for this just to make it a little bit easier. We're going to take the tie tube and install it on our vertical tube, just slide the brackets over and then feed a bolt through the brackets and the top, and the vertical tubes. And then get that locknut on there, like so.Now we're going to get our brace tube installed. Just going to slide in between that bracket right there. And we just grab a bolt and feed it through the bracket and in the tube, then attach a locknut to it. Again, leave it loose. We'll tighten everything down later.Now we're going to install our sliding brackets on our tie tube right here. Just going to sandwich that tie tube just like that. You just go ahead and inaudible 00:32:00 put it on. Set one of them down. We're going to hold this one in place and feed our two top bolts through, like so. Then I'm going to hold this one in place on top. I'm going to set it up and feed it through, then hold it and get my locknuts installed. You want to leave these loose because we don't know where we're going to want that top crossbar yet. Then we're going to take that third bolt and feed it through the bottom with the locknut.Now we're going to get our rear crossbar in place. With this set you are going to need some washers. So what's going to happen, we're going to put a fat washer on the bolt and we're going to take the bolt through the crossbar first then through the bracket. So feed that through like so. Set it down, then get a locknut on it. Do the same for the other side. And once we get these locknuts loosely installed, we're going to go and tighten just these two bolts. We want to leave these loose so we can adjust the crossbar where we see fit for whatever accessories we might be hauling.So now we're going to remove the front bolts here so we can install our support brackets. We're going to slide it through the bracket. Wiggle that washer then through the frame, and then on the other side, like so. Put a flat washer on, and a locknut. And then we'll sandwich the brackets around the brace tube, get that bolt installed. And then both locknuts.Now we can just get our front crossbar installed. It's going to go on the same way as the rear one. Make sure you get a washer. Fat washer. Then go through the crossbar first and then the bracket. Then get a locknut and thread that on. Again, fat washer, bolt through the crossbar, and then through the bracket, then a locknut.Now we can just tighten up all of the bolts. We're going to start from the bottom and work our way up. Before we tighten down your sliding brackets right here, you do want to make sure you have your crossbar adjusted to wherever you need it.Again, don't forget your D-rings and end caps. Same thing as before. Once you get all of those, you're ready to hit the road.


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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Jacob T
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Colin H

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