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Malone MicroSport Jon Boat Trailer Review

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Review of the Malone Microsport Jon Boat Trailer


Today we're going to be taking a look at the Malone MicroSport jon boat trailer. Part number NPG461JB.This Malone trailer is going to be a great replacement or upgrade from your old jon boat trailer. It can be delivered right to your door step. It's a 13-foot trailer that will accommodate boats up to 16 feet. It comes with almost everything you need to safely transport your jon boat. You got the winch, the keel roller, and the carpeted bunks. You will, however, have to provide your own bow or gun whale straps.

You can find those right here at etrailer.com.With our boat all loaded up, let's go and take it out on the road and see how our trailer performs. Then we'll take a closer look at some features.As you can see the trailer tracks well behind our vehicle, it's built to work on many types of terrain.It's going to connect to your two inch ball. It includes safety chains, and it's fully wired to fit your for-pull connection on your vehicle. That way it's going to give us our running lights, our brake lights, and our turn signals.The coupler latch is easy to operate. It features a trigger style.

There's even a hole, so we can pass a lock through. That way no one can steal our trailer from our vehicle. The lift handle's going to make it easy to disconnect and connect our trailer to our vehicle.When it's not connected, the kickstand will keep our trailer propped up. It's a wheeled kickstand, so it's going to be convenient when positioning it in our driveway or our garage.As you can see, the frame is a galvanized steel construction. It's marine grade, so it's going to hold up to the elements.The carpeted bunks are about six foot long.

This is what our boat is going to rest on. They pivot to accommodate our boat. You'll want to position these permanently. They're also adjustable horizontally and vertically. Again, you'll want to set this to your boat.The keel roller's adjustable up and down.

You can see here we've got a series of holes. It's also adjustable along our trunk. This is going to help us guide our boat on into place. It's also going to help support the front of our boat.The roller is made out of rubber. Not only is it going to provide good cushion during transport, but it's going to provide that when loading and unloading.The bow stop bracket, and the bow stop bumper are going to help support the front of our boat. They're also going to help keep our boat firmly attached to our trailer when used in conjunction with the winch.The winch is going to allow us to let our boat out into the water. It's also going to help us guide it onto the trailer. The winch itself is adjustable along the winch stand. You can see here we've got a variety of holes. It can also be inverted to better suit our needs.It features a leaf spring suspension with an 1,800 pound axle. It features a grease Zerk so we can perform regular maintenance.It features 12-inch wheels with nice hubs. It has a load range DST145 tire. It even includes a spare with a mount in case of an emergency. The tires have a maximum speed limit of 70 miles an hour.Like most trailers, it includes fenders. This going to prevent anything from splashing up on our jon boat, our trailer or any other vehicles behind us.Here's a closer look at our lights. It includes two amber lights, one for each side. These our our side marker lights. Here at the back we've got taillights. The driver's side includes a license plate light and a license plate bracket. All of our lights are LED.As I mentioned earlier, our trailer is fully wired. It includes these plugin and play bullet connectors. That way, when we're wiring it up we don't have to cut or splice anything together.Though it may have a lot of components of hardware, it's not a hard installation. It's just time consuming.Our first step is to assemble the frame assembly. I've got mine laid out and almost put all the way together. We want to loosely install our hardware and our hardware bag is labeled per our instructions. So make sure you grab the correct hardware bag. Let's go ahead and get started.So we'll start with our bolts. Get them lined up and put them through. Take the lock nuts and put them on the other side.Now for this portion of our assembly, we'll be using a- millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter socket. For our front brakes here, we'll be using the same hardware, but we'll be adding flat washers before we add the lock nut on the inside. The same thing here. Get it lined up, flat washer, then then lock nut.So we'll work our way around until we have everything loosely installed just like this.Now when you assemble your trailer, we're going to assemble it upside down, so you'll need to go around and make sure all of your decals are upside down. That way when we flip it over, they'll be right side up.Before we attach our tongue to your frame assembly, we'll need to pass our wiring through. This is so we can have power to our lights.The end with the most holes is going to be the end where our coupler attaches to. We'll need to be sure that the male end is pointing towards the trailer. Our female end is what's going to connect to our vehicle. We'll just drop it down to our tongue until it comes out the other side.Now we can take our wiring closest to our frame assembly end. We're going to pull it through being careful not to pull the other end all the way through the tongue. We're going to come out this hole here in our brace. Then we'll take our tongue, we'll feed it through and we're going to line up these two holes.Then we'll take the longest bolt out of our kit and it's going to come up through the bottom. That way the head is on top when we flip our trailer over. Take a flat washer, pick up on my frame slightly, run that through, so it comes out the top, then I'll put another flat washer and then my lock nut. Then we can tighten it down.Now the size is going to be a 19-millimeter socket or wrench. We'll have to use both.From here we can tighten down the rest of our bolts on our frame. This size is just going to be 14-millimeter.For the rest of our towing assembly, we'll be using the two bolts that are the same length. They both get flat washers and then they're going to go through these holes here.Then we'll take two more flat washers and then our lock nuts. Then we can tighten it down with a 19-millimeter wrench and socket.With our frame assembled, let's attach our spring hanger brackets. The U-shaped one is going to go towards the front of our trailer. The C-shaped one is going to go in the rear. We need to do this for both sides.For these brackets, we'll take the shorter bolts out of our kit. The head's going to be dropped down through and then we'll put that lock nut underneath, within the frame rail. Then we'll tighten that down, 14-millimeter with a wrench on top. Then we'll repeat the same process on all the brackets.Now let's turn our attention to our axle. We'll need our axle, our two leaf springs, and our hardware from our axle hardware bag.We'll take a spring. We'll need to be sure that the holes on the axle are facing up just like this. Then we're going to set the spring with the nub here and put it in the hole.Then we'll take our plate. We're going to set it over the top of the nut here. We'll bring U-bolts up underneath. Go ahead and get our nuts started here. Now we'll tighten them down with the 14-millimeter socket. It's a good idea to tighten them down evenly. We'll get them most of the way down and then we'll go back and make sure it's done evenly.With them loosely installed evenly, let's go ahead and tighten them down the rest of the way. No reason to over tighten. Just get them nice and secure. We'll do it in a cross pattern.Let's go ahead and set it in place. So I'm going to pick it up and just turn it over. I'll line it up with my spring hanger brackets. We'll put the flat end in and the C-bracket first. Then we'll lower the other end down and line up the holes.Now we'll take our long bolt from the kit. We're going to go through making sure it passes through the leaf spring and we're going to bring it out the other side.Now we'll take one of our long bolts from our kit bag. We're going to pass through the hanger, through the leaf spring and then out the other side. Then we'll take a lock nut and put that on.Now we can tighten them up. Now we don't want to over tighten these. We just want to tighten it up to where the head of the bolt is touching the shackle bracket here, and that the nut is touching here.Now that we've got our axle installed, we can put our tires on. Now I've got my frame set up on jack stands. You can either have somebody pick up on the back end while you put the tires on, or you can find something else to prop it up.Now our wheels do have these fancy little covers. So we'll put the cap on and we're going to take it, put it through here and then we can put our wheel on.From here we'll just loosely install our lug nuts. Once you get them on by hand, if you'd like to, you can go ahead and snug them up. Then we will torque them down later. Once our tires are on, we can flip our trailer over. Now let's work on our light assemblies.We can start by putting on our taillight brackets. We're just going to be lining it up with the side of the trailer here, putting our bolts through and then our nuts on the other side. We can just tighten them down with our 14-millimeter socket.The driver side is going to be the one with the clear lens and bottom. This is for our license plate. We'll also need to put on our license plate bracket. So on the backside we can take off our hardware. We'll put on our bracket. We want to make sure that our wires are out of the way. Then we can take it and put it on our bracket here.Then we can put our nuts on the back side, hand tighten them down. Then snug them down with a 10-millimeter wrench or socket. Be sure not to over tighten, otherwise you could crack the plastic casing. Get it nice and secure, then repeat the same process on the other side.Now we can move onto our side marker lights. Be sure to take the nut off the back side. We're going to run our wires through this hole here. Put it through and then put the nut on the back side. That, too, is a 10-millimeter socket.Now we'll grab the rest of our wiring and connect it together. I'm just going to toss my wire in towards my trailer and connect my two connectors here.For our wires, the yellow, brown, and white are going to go to our driver's side. The brown, white, and green are going to go to our passenger side.I want to be sure to route my wiring underneath my frame. I'll start by connecting my turn signal. They're just bullet connectors, so just connect them together. Then we'll head towards our taillight.For this, we'll go on down the inside of the frame here. Going to feed my wiring through the hole here. Then same as we did before, connect color for color. Then we'll repeat the same process for the passenger side.The unused wires are for auxiliary. They're for other accessories from Malone. Now let's clean up our wiring with our clips. We'll take the shorter end here that clips onto our frame. Now it may be difficult to do so you can use a little hammer to fit it into place. We'll just work our way alongside the frame, then clip it just like that.With our wiring all connected and cleaned up, let's move onto our fender assembly. We'll need our 14-millimeter socket and we'll need a flat head screwdriver.We'll first grab our fender and we knew to install some L-shape brackets. We're going to line them up here and here. They need to be facing the same direction as one another.Take our flathead bolt, put it through and then install a lock nut. We'll do the same for the other hole and we'll repeat the same process with the other three brackets. Then we can just tighten them down.Now we're ready to install our fender. See, we've go the bracket in place here. It's got a series of holes. We're going to be lining up with the holes here on our trailer frame. Now, it may not be the same for each bracket. Just line up a hole, and we'll put the bolt through.Now it's going to take a hex bolt and a flat washer. It's important that we go from the fender to the inside of the trailer frame.So let's go through one of our holes. We'll put a flat washer and nut on the back side. Then we'll just repeat the same process on the other side. Then we'll just tighten them down. Now this can be tricky. I would use a socket on the inside and then a wrench just underneath the fender.For our coupler assembly, I've got the tongue raised back up on a jack stand. We're going to install the skid first. It's going to line up underneath the tongue like this. Our safety chains are going to attach to it.We'll take our safety chains. We'll locate the last link. We're going to double them up, and take our short bolt along with a flat washer. We'll go through the links. Then we'll take our skid, go through the hole. From there we'll put it into place on our tongue. You can see here we've got a hole here and one here. It fits in just like this.On the inside, we'll take another flat washer and then our lock nut. With it in place, we can then just tighten it down.Now for our couple, it just sits on the tongue like so. Let's not to forget to put on our handle. We'll line up the holes. We'll take our long bolts and then the nuts go on the other side. Then we can just tighten them up.The wheeled kickstand is next. As you can see, it's very similar to a wheeled jack except for there's no handle to raise it up. It is just a kickstand.We'll come off the couple about two inches and put our long bolts through. On the other side, we'll take our bracket. Be sure that the single hole is up top. Put that in place. From there we'll take a lock washer and then our nuts.Then we'll put our bottom bolts in. Then the rest of the hardware on the back. With them hand tightened, lets go ahead and tighten them the rest of the way down with a 17-millimeter socket.Now we do want to be sure and alternate top and bottom. That way the brackets sit up against the tongue evenly. From there we can remove our jack stand and now it's holding itself up on its own.Onto our bunk supports, these get installed on our rear cross member and our center cross member. We'll be sure that the single hole is facing upward and that the open side of the supports are facing inward. These just get a U-bolt, then a flat washer on the inside and then our lock nut.One thing we do need to be sure of is that they are higher than the fenders. So I'm going to put them up as high as they'll go. With them hand tightened, let's go ahead and tighten them down a little bit more. We still want to leave them loose though. That way we can adjust them later.With the bunks loosely installed, let's add or swivel brackets to the top. They're going to go on the flat side of the bunk supports. Take our bolt and go through the top. Then our lock washer on the back. We'll also want to leave this loose.Now we can bring in our carpeted bunks. The key with these is we need to be sure we have the same overhang distance on both ends. So here and on the rear. We can take a tape measure and measure it out and mark it. Whatever's easiest for you.Once we've got it lined up, it's as simple as just putting in our wood screws. Perfect. At this point in the installation you'd want to adjust your bunk supports and your swivel brackets and tighten them down. That way your carpeted bunks will match the contours of your boat.Now let's install the winch stand. The bottom is going to rest on top of our tongue. We'll place it near the front close to our wheeled kickstand. We'll put our bolts through and then a lock nut. Place another one here at the top. Then two on bottom. Then we can tighten them down.Now onto our winch and our bow stop bracket. We'll need to combine the two. We're going to slide it in until the center bolt comes through here and here. The rear of it needs to be flush just like this.Now let's add our bow stop bumper. We'll align the two holes up with the bow stop here on top, put our large bolt through, then we'll squeeze it together. Just like that.With it put together, we'll mount it to the winch stand. Now as you can see, we've got a series of holes. You want to mount it to wherever your boat is going to work out best.We'll take our short hex bolt and pass it through. Then put a lock nut on the other side. Now let's tighten it all down.Then we can tighten up our bumper. Again, you want to position this to where it's going to work out best for your boat.Then for our handle, slips on like so. Then we can tighten that down.The next step is to install the keel roller. This is going to be installed to where it points towards our winch stand. Again, you'll need to position this to where it's going to work best for your boat. Once you got it positioned, take the hardware, push the bolt through and put the lock nut on the other end. Then we'll put one on bottom. Then we'll tighten these up.For your spare tire, it includes a U-bolt so you can mount it anywhere along your trailer. Again you want to be sure you mount it so it doesn't interfere with your boat. For demonstration purposes, we're going to leave it off.With everything installed, that completes our assembly. That's going to complete our look at the Malone MicroSport jon boat trailer. Part number NPG461JB.


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