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Malone MicroSport Heavy Boat Trailer Review

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Review of the Malone MicroSport Heavy Boat Trailer

Colin: Hi everyone, it's Colin here at etrailer and today we're going to take a look at the Malone MicroSport Fishing Kayak Trailer. This is a trailer that's going to come with two sets of bunks so you can get two fishing kayaks loaded up on here and secured. You can avoid putting them on your rooftop or finding some other way to carry them. Now obviously as you can see, we don't have two fishing kayaks. Literally these are just standard kayaks. Now we have fishing kayaks.

More times than not those are a lot heavier than a standard kayak like you see right here.So having to put one on your roof is not that ideal. It would involve needing a really high weight capacity on your rooftop and just lifting it up there could be a pain and honestly not that safe. So being able to get two fishing kayaks loaded up on this trailer, not have to worry about lugging them down to the water and back up. You can just back it down just like a boat ramp into the water. Release them, do your fishing, come back up, pull them right up onto the bunks, secure them, and then hit the road.And the trailer has an 800 pound weight capacity.

And with the load we have on it here, you can clearly see it's not anywhere close to that capacity. Even if we had a couple of really heavy, efficient kayaks with some trolling motors, I don't think we even come close to touching that. There's going to be very tough and durable. What's actually nice is that, if somehow you have a really heavy boat you want to put on here, you could actually adjust the bunks. If you want to carry one heavy boat up to 500 pounds, the set of bunks can support about up to 500 pounds.

So just make sure you're abiding by both of those weight limits when you're transporting bigger boats.Each set of bunks is going to come with the straps you need to secure your boats. And what's nice is that even if you wanted to use them for some standard kayaks like we have right here, these aren't too heavy. If we wanted to unload them and carry them down to the dock, it'd be much easier to unload from our waist level like it is right now than it would be if it's on top of our roof on a roof rack. And what's nice is that if you do want to carry some standard kayaks on there, you have that option and it's honestly a lot easier to unload your kayaks from your waist level right here than it would be to reach above your head and try to unload it from your crossover SUV or something like that.Now something I do want to point out is that if you are going to be only hauling some standard kayaks at this, and maybe you have more than two, what I would recommend doing is looking into the Malone MicroSport Trailer for four kayaks. Instead of getting two sets of bunks, you're going to get four J-style carriers on there to carry four standard kayaks.

As this one is more built for those heavy duty fishing kayaks, I'd recommend going the other route for standard kayaks. And honestly one of my favorite things about these Malone MicroSport Trailer Kits is that they're very customizable so that you can get on the trailer. The carrier is appropriate for what you have to carry and it's also going to free up space on top of your roof and inside your vehicle for passengers and other cargo.Now up front you can see we have this coupler right here. This is going to be for two inch balls, so just make sure you got one of those if you want to haul this trailer. And it comes with everything you need tow. We got the two safety chain hooks right there. We got our four pole wiring harness, so you do want to make sure that you have a four pole connection so that you have your tail lights at the back of the trailer.Now you are going to have all the tail light signals that you need. You can see right here we got our running lights, we'll have our brake lights and we got our left turn signal and our right turn signal. Now, depending on the weight that you have loaded, it's not going to be extremely heavy to pick it up by the nice rubber handle right here and move it into the garage or storage space that you have at your house. So we'll go ahead and just unhook everything, get our safety chains, and we'll get our wiring off. Then we'll just pull up our latch right there and then it's very easy just to pick this up. And what's also nice is that we can leave our kayaks loaded up, we don't have to worry about unloading them and storing them somewhere. We can just push it into our source space, whether it's the garage, underneath your deck. And then it'll be there for next time.And it's got a nice stand right here so you don't have to worry about setting on something. You can just set that right there and you'll be good to go. Now we'll start up top with our bunks. Like I said, you're going to get two sets of these, so you got one set for each boat. These bunks are seven feet long, so they're going to be able to fit kayaks that are pretty long up top. With these carpeted bunks, they're just like your standard Marine bunks that you might have for your boat or your jet ski or something like that. We can pivot them, which is a nice feature back and forth like so. So it'll be able to match virtually any hole size.And what's nice is that we can also loosen up the brackets that are connecting it to our crossbars and slide those in and out. So there's really no inaudible 00:04:28 size that you shouldn't be able to get on these bunks. And there's also two more adjustment holes on the bottom of the bracket. So if you had a pretty deep hole and needed to get the bunks higher off the crossbar, you just adjust the U-bolt into the bottom pole right here to get that extra height. Now one thing I do want to point out is that once you get your boat loaded, it's very important to make sure you tighten up all the hardware on here so that your boat stays secured.Now the crossbars that our bunks are attached to are 78 inches long. So like I said, if you got two smaller fishing kayaks or other just standard kayaks you want to throw on here, you could really conserve on space by scooting the bunks either all the way to the middle or all the way to the outside to give yourself more crossbars space to fit other carriers. Now the entire frame along with the crossbars are going to have a Marine grade steel construction. It's also galvanized, so it's going to be very tough and durable and it's going to resist rust and corrosion. So like I said, if you wanted to, you could back this down a boat ramp or down a hill into the water and all the wiring, the trailer, everything is going to do just fine in those elements.Now one of my favorite things about the trailer is that we have the wiring right here that's very easy to get installed and very easy to run throughout the frame of the trailer. And right here we have these nice quick connectors that make it very easy to get them installed on your taillights. There's no splicing or anything required, which is a very nice handy feature. It comes apart just like that and once you get the wiring harness run all the way up here and get your tail lights installed, you just plug them in, match up the colors and then you're ready to go. And everything's going to be sealed away, so water and nothing else like that is going to get into the wiring and ruin your taillights.Another thing I really like about this trailer is that it's not just some small dinky trailer that you can only use every so often and it rides very rough. We have a set of leafs connected to our axle that helps absorb a lot of impacts. So you can see when I push down on it, you know that it's really going to absorb any impacts. Whether you hit a pothole or a speed bump, it's going to make sure that you have a smooth ride with your kayaks. Now with the tires that come in your kit, we're going to have 12 inch wheels on them. You see we got five lug nuts and a hubcap. These can handle highway speeds up to 75 miles per hour. And then on top we have these nice steel fenders that are very tough and durable and they've that same Marine grade steel construction.And it's also going to help prevent the tires from throwing up mud and other debris onto the bottom of your kayaks. Now we have our spare tire mounted to the frame of our trailer. It's really nice to include a spare because you definitely don't want to blow a tire on your trailer and then have to drop your trailer to go get a spare and leave your nice expensive kayaks attached to the trailer. If you happen to have a blow out, you can get the spare off, throw it on your tires the exact same size and then you can be on your way.Now the carrier has it mounted with a U-bolt that comes up from the bottom and these two nice brackets right here. Just show you how they work. You would just loosen this all the way so it comes up and off of the bolt. And what's nice about this bracket kit is that we can tighten it up all the way right here and you can get an optional pad lock to put it through there to lock your spare tire onto your trailer. Now you can see we have an extended tongue length as well. So if you have a particularly long kayak to where the front of it is going to extend out a couple feet past your bunks, you're not going to have to worry about that making contact with your vehicle, especially when you're turning.Now one thing I do want to point out is that when it's unloaded, it's completely empty. You do have a tongue weight of about 45 pounds on your vehicle. So when you load it up, depending on what you have loaded, make sure you're not exceeding your hitch's tongue weight rating. Now as far as assembly for this trailer, it's actually not too complicated. The instructions are pretty straightforward as long as you follow them. We're going to show you guys how to do it. One thing you want to make sure you have is a set of tools, have some sockets and wrenches and you are going to need a drill so you can get some wood screws into your bunk boards. We'll go ahead and walk you through that whole assembly process right now.Now to start, we've got our frame laid out right now and loosely installed with our hardware. Now keep in mind, we have our frame upside down right now. You can tell by the Malone stickers being upside down. That's going to help us out when we install our axle and springs and our wheels and then we'll fold it back over when we get to that point. Now before we get our beam right here installed where our coupler is going to install, we need to get our wiring through it. Now again, we want make sure we do this the correct way. We have the warning sticker right here. This is going to be towards the front where your coupler is. You can also tell because there's three holes at the bottom of it right here. Then the other side with the two holes is going to be right here where the frame assembles. So with our four pole wiring it's going to feed that from the top.This is something you definitely don't want to forget to do because then you got to do a lot of backtracking and take a lot of hardware apart and it's just kind of a pain. There we go. Let's set this down and we'll pull it the rest of the way through. Now you do want to make sure you pull out enough excess wire right here so it can reach your four pole connection on your vehicle. It is going to be different depending on where it's situated, so you'll just have to play that kind of by ear. I usually just take more than I need because you can always bundle it up if you need to. Now back here, we're just going to slide it into that slot, take our wiring, feed it through this bracket. It's going to be a little tight. Pull that through, slide this all the way as we go. Just like that.It is honestly a good idea to go ahead and get everything loosely installed and then tighten everything down at once. There is a certain order you want to do it, so I'm going to walk you through that right now and I do want to give you guys a quick note. The hardware bags are labeled for each step for the frame assembly. It's bag number 11462 so you can get that bag and then assemble everything. Now I'll walk you through the order to tighten things to make it a little bit easier.Now we're going to start with the spring hanging brackets right here. Your C ones are going to be at the back and then the U shaped ones are going to be up here at the front. So we're going to tighten these four brackets down first. We got 14 millimeter wrenches, so let's get to work. Next, we're going to tighten up the bolts that are holding our rear tongue support bracket in place. Keep in mind that there are washers on this set and this is a carriage bolt so you don't need a wrench on the other side. So we'll just tighten that down now.Now we're going to tighten up the bolts that are clamping down on the tongue of our trailer. You want to make sure you get them as even as possible up here, so to make sure that stays even we're just going to go ahead and use some hand tools. Might take you a little bit longer, but it'll make sure that everything stays even. Doesn't have to be over-tightened, just get it pretty snug. Do want to point out that we do have a washer on each side right here, one at the bullhead and one with the nylon nut and of course we're getting the other side tightened down as well. And now we'll also tighten up the bolt that is connecting the tongue to the support bracket. Again, just use hand tools on this one if possible. And lastly, make sure you tighten down the bolts that are holding our cross supports in place.Now I assembled the springs to our axle. It's just a couple of sets of U-bolts I used and some plates. Now it's important to know, all I did was I tightened them down until they made contact with the plate. See how my spring still has wiggle room You want to make sure you still have that. What we're going to do is pick it up and flip it over. Then we're going to use that wiggle room to get those parts of our springs into the C-channels and then drop those parts in to the U- brackets. Now you can see we just fed a bolt through the bracket and then through the spring right here, put a nylon knock on the other side. We'll tighten that down.It'll be the same for the other side. Now we can come back and tighten down our U- bolts to our plate. You want to tighten it down with a hand tool just because you don't want to over tighten. You want to make sure it's as even as possible. You want to go until there's a slight bend in the plate. So let's go and get that done.Now I've gone ahead and throw my tires on. Got my lug nuts just hand tightened only. So we're going to go ahead and flip it over. One thing I do want to point out is to make sure you get the hubcap through the tire before you put it onto your hub assembly. So what we're going to do to flip it over, just grab it by any back corner and just bring it over top and get it onto the tires. From there you can go ahead and tighten down your lug nuts. If you have a torque wrench that would be ideal, they suggest getting it to 75 to 85 foot pounds. If not, we'll show you guys you can do without one. Just make sure you go in that typical star pattern.Now we can get our lights assembled. We have the brackets installed already. All it is is two carrot bolts with some nylon lock nuts on the other side. We just feed that through there. Keep in mind you want to make sure that you get the correct light on the correct side. So the blue wire is going to be for your passenger's side and we'll just get these nuts started on there. And then tighten them all the way down with our hands. And then right here and now we'll go to the other side and do the same thing.Now on the driver's side you're going to have the yellow wire instead of the green. And we're also going to throw this license plate holder on the back as well. And there's also going to be a light underneath that we talked about earlier that'll illuminate your license plate in the dark. Get those tightened down. Now we'll just get a wrench and just snug them up a little bit. So from here we'll get our side parking lights installed as well. Just feed the wire through the holes right there, feed the wire through and then get the nut onto the bolt that went through that hole. And we'll repeat this for the other side. And then you want to make sure you snug up the bolts as well.And then you can see we plugged our allying harness into the harness that came out of the tongue of our trailer and then just ran the wiring all the way back to our lights. And with those quick disconnect plugs we showed you earlier, we just plug them all in and we're good to go. Now for the fender assembly you can see we got a bracket right here that we attached to the fender and then we attached it to the frame of the trailer back here. The inaudible 00:00:15:36 bag you're going to use is 11464. It's pretty straight forward once you get them attached to your fender, then you just use the included nuts, nylon lock nuts and both to attach them to the frame. Now we're up front, we're going to get the coupler assembly installed. Up first is our safety chains, so just kind of get both those chains lined up. Might be easy if we just go ahead and stack those, get your bolt with the flat washer through them.And then what we'll do is feed it through right there. Feed it up and through that hole, and then this little tab can then go into this hole right there. And then we'll just throw that flat washer on on the inside and then get the nylon lock nut loosely installed like that.Now with our coupler assembly, you just insert these two bolts through the handle and then through the coupler, out the other side. Get your nylon lock nuts on there and then tighten everything down. Now we've gone ahead and installed our rear crossbar. It was a pretty simple process. We just had the base right here with a couple of U-bolts and some plates connecting it to the frame of the trailer and then we added our crossbar installed with these two sets of brackets. So this is the rear one. We're going to go ahead and install the front one for you guys.Really the only difference is that what we did was measured 48 inches from our rear crossbar all the way up here. That's just kind of the spread they want. Doesn't have to be exactly 48 but we want to try to get it as close as you can. We have our U-bolts installed. Go ahead and tighten them up.Before we tighten everything down for sure, go ahead and remeasure just so that if it moved at all while you we're tightening it up, you can adjust it and keep it around that 48 inch mark. We're still right there, so we're good on this side. We can go ahead and snug that up real quick and then we'll move to the other side and do the same thing. And don't forget to throw these end caps on your support bars before you get your crossbars installed.Now we've set our crossbar down. One thing I do want to point out is that make sure you have this hole facing either towards the front or on the other side towards the back. Either way you want it on the side. We'll just drop bracket over top, feed our bolts through. Next, I'm actually going to go from the front.That first one's going to go through the support bar and then what we'll do is put a lock nut on the back just loosely. Good. And then what we're going to do is lift up on the crossbar and then a second bolt is going to go underneath your crossbar like so and then get that locked in on there. And we'll do this for the other side as well. And before we tighten anything up, you do want to make sure you have it as in line as possible with your rear crossbar. You can eyeball it if you want. We're pretty close right there or if you wanted to, you could get a tape measure and then just measure the overhang on each side. I'm choosing just to go with the eyeball test. We have it lined up almost exactly.So we'll just tighten down our lock nuts. And we tighten down the first one so I can pull that crossbar up and get this bracket flush on the top and then I'll tighten that all the way down. And I'm just using a 14 millimeter socket and a wrench on the other side. Move to the other side right here.And then we'll make our way over to the other side of the crossbar, do the same thing. And then don't forget to install your D-rings. That's why we left the hole on the side of the crossbars. I'm just going to kind kind of slide my finger in. Get that bolt installed onto that lock nut on the inside. Now to get it tightened up, you want to avoid putting a wrench in there to hold the other side. So what we're going to do is take a pair of needle nose pliers. Hold on to that lock nut, get a nice grip on it and then we'll tighten down our D-ring.Now when getting your bunks installed, you do want to make sure that your boat is around so that when you get them fully installed, you can get onto your bunks and adjust them for your hole. But first we'll start with our bracket right here. Goes on our crossbar. Small U-bolt comes through like that. There's no set measurement on how high you have to have your bracket. You can base it off of the depth of your boat. If you have a pretty deep hole then you probably want to adjust the bracket up so that you have more space between the bottom of your bunks and your crossbar, but we're just going to go right in the middle. We'll just tighten these down all the way.Once we get that bracket fully tightened down, I'm going to grab our swivel bracket and get this installed like so. Now with this one, when we tighten it down, we're not going to fully tighten it. We're just going to get it to the point where the bracket is pressed up against our bracket a little bit. Our swivel bracket is pressed up against this bracket and then we'll get the lock nut making contact with it.You do this so that when you get your pole of your kayak ready, you can adjust the bunks once we get those on there. Kind of make it a little bit more snug in this position, but you can see we still have that little bit of adjustability. We'll repeat this for the front. Now at this point we're ready to finish up getting our bunk installed and that means getting our wood screws drilled in to the bottom of our bunk board through the swivel bracket.At this point, it is kind of a permanent step in your bunk board installation. Now what you want to do is if you have a kayak that's pretty evenly distributed as far as its weight, then you want to get the bunks as even as possible from each side of the bracket. So just measure from the edge of this bracket right here all the way out. Make it even on the front and the back, and then go ahead and get your wood screws installed. Now if you have a boat or a fishing kayak that has a small trolling motor on the back or something to that effect and where there is more weight on the backside, I would advise go ahead and scooting up your bunks a little bit so that you can get the weight on the back end closer to the axle of your trailer so it can support the weight a little bit better.And it won't be as heavy at the back to where your front end wants to kind of rise a little bit while you're installing it. So in our case, I went ahead and scooted them up just to give you guys a good look at that. You just do want to base this on whatever kayak or boat that you might have. So we already have all the other ones installed. We'll just get this one even. You want to try to drive it in as straight as possible.There we go. Doesn't have to be too tight. You just want to get the head of that screw up against your swivel bracket. And then of course, don't forget to throw your spare tire on there as well. At this point, you're ready to load up both of your kayaks, strap them down, and then hit the road. Well, thank you all for watching and I hope this information helped you out, but that's going to do it for our look at and assembly of the Malone MicroSport Trailer for two fishing kayaks.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Colin H
Installed by:
Colin H
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R

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