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Malone MicroSport Trailer with J-Pro 2 Kayak Carriers Review

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Review of the Malone MicroSport Trailer with J-Pro 2 Kayak Carriers


Colin: Hey, everyone. It's Colin here at eTrailer. Today we're going to take a look at one of our Malone MicroSport trailer kits. Now, in this kit you're going to get the MicroSport trailer itself, you're going to get the spare tire kit, as well as two J-Pro2 style kayak carriers from Malone.Now, this trailer is going to be a really great setup. It's going to allow you to transport two kayaks to and from your destination. Just one of the things I really like about it is that it's basically a roof rack on wheels, and that me personally, you know, I'm about 5'9", having a Jeep, it's very hard for me to get that kayak up there.Not because it's too heavy, but because I'm a little shorter.

I got to open the door, and probably get an extra set of hands. With this trailer, it's so easy for me just to get my hand under it and just get it up off of the carrier, and then at the end of the day you're probably going to be pretty tired from being on the lake or on the water all day with your kayak.So, the last thing you want to do is try to muscle it up and get it on top of your roof. You saw how easy that was just for me to walk over here, set it on the carrier, now we can get our strap secured.And again, with it being that level with me, I don't have to struggle with reaching on my roof, maybe standing on my tire to be able to get my strap secured. I can just toss it right over, I can reach the J carrier from the other side, and pull the strap all the way out.Bring it under our crossbar, through the felt, which is a great protector for your kayak from the metal buckle, and just like that it's secure. A lot quicker than having to struggle on your roof, and then just tie off your excess.Or if you do like having a roof rack on your vehicle, you're going to create more space on the top of it.

We can get some bike racks up there, or even a cargo box. Anything to that nature. On trailer, we're going to have 78 inch long crossbars as well as the two J-style kayak carriers.Now, the benefit of the J-style carrier is that it does conserve space on your trailer. Right now, we only have two kayaks up there, but they're pretty spaced out, as well as still having a lot of space on the ends of the crossbars, so you do have the option to get other accessories on your trailer, whether you've got a bike rack, or even another kayak carrier, you can just adjust the two that come with your kit and you can get other stuff loaded.With the J-Pro carriers, we are going to have nice foam pads on the bottom that are supporting our kayak. You can see right here, the kayak's sitting nicely on there.

The foam's going to do a great job of not causing any type of damage on your kayaks. And on the backside we are going to have two more foam pads, which, again, are going to protect our kayak.There's going to be some hook and loop sleeves around them to help prevent a lot of wear and tear from occurring on the foam. This trailer's also going to be very easy to hook up and unhook from your vehicle. At the end of the day, you may be very tired. The last thing you want to do is try to unload your kayaks, whether you're unloading them from your roof or even from your trailer.All you're going to have to do is unhook your trailer, and get our safety chains off, wrap those around our tongue, and then get our wiring unhooked.

From there, we can just get it off of our vehicle with ease. The trailer is going to have an 800 pound weight capacity, but as you can see with our current load, we're not even close to touching that.So, using the nice, rubber handle, which is going to be good for grip, I can get it off of my ball mount and then push it into my garage so my kayaks can stay attached and they're ready to go out for the next time.Now we have the trailer inside our garage, and unloaded, so we can have a closer look at it. It is going to have an all galvanized steel construction. That's just going to be very tough and durable. It's going to help resist rust and corrosion. A lot of other trailers you might see will have plastic components to them which can wear down a lot sooner than the galvanized steel, or they could even break a lot sooner, and you're not going to have to replace those parts.With the kayaks off, you can really see the foam on both sides of the carrier, and how it's going to protect your kayak. Now, on this platform, right here, we're going to have a hard foam with a coating on it. That's going to, again, help protect your kayak from any type of damage.Now, if for some reason you want to strap something down straight onto the crossbars, the D-rings on each end of the crossbars are going to help you secure it for a safe trip. The lightning system on our trailer is going to be very easy to put together.You can see, all we had to do was run it through the trailer frame. It includes these clips where we can clip it up, and then it's going to be out of the way from our wheels, and our leaf springs, and then when you get it to your lights, you don't have to splice it or do anything like that.We have these bullet connectors from Malone. All you have to do is just plug it in and you're going to have power to your lights. Our LED lighting system is going to be very bright, which means it's going to be visible even during the day when the sun is shining, and under our driver's side taillight, we are going to have another light which is illuminating our license plate, making sure that's visible at night.And we're also going to have two LED amber lights on the sides of our trailer, which is going to be great for auxiliary safety lights. Both of the tires that come with the trailer, as well as the spare, are all going to be ready for speeds up to 75 miles per hour, so you're going to do just fine on the highway with these;.The galvanized steel fenders are going to do a great job of making sure that the tires don't throw up any type of dirt or debris onto your kayaks. We're going to have two leaf springs connected to our axle. It's going to help absorb a lot of the impact you may encounter on the road, as well as helping cancel out a lot of the road vibration that you may experience at those highway speeds.The best place for your spare tire is going to be at the part of the frame where the tongue is connected to the rest of the trailer. There's just going to be the most surface area for your tire to sit on. We're going to have a U-bolt coming up from the bottom.It's going to come up through two of the lug nut holes on your tire, and then we have these threaded brackets which threat al the way down until they're touching the tire. It's going to make for a secure fit on the trailer. We're also going to have an option to add a padlock so you can add more security to your spare tire.It's always a good idea to have that spare tire, just because you never know what could happen out on the road. For some reason you need to pull over because you have a blown tire on your trailer, the last thing you want to do is leave the trailer behind with all your equipment on it to try to get a new tire.Now, this trailer does have a lot of great features. I just really enjoy how easy the lighting was to operate. You don't have to feed wiring all the way through a long tube and then just splice it at the end. It's very easy to get it through the tongue, and then throughout and through the frame of your trailer, and those bullet connectors make it very easy to get your lights operating.Assembly for this may take you about an hour to two hours, but as long as your following the instructions you should get it done fairly easily. Let's go ahead and show you how to do that right now.The first thing we did was we set up the frame how it's going to be put together. You might notice that we do have it upside down. We're going to put it together that way so that it's a little bit easier to get the spring and axle assembly installed.Now, the first thing we're going to do is get the brackets for our spring and axle assembly installed. The C-shaped ones are going to go on the back of our trailer, while the U-shaped ones go on the front. They're all going to bolt together the same way.You can see right here, just the two holes on the frame of the trailer. The bracket sits right on top, and then we just drop a couple bolts through the bracket in the frame of the trailer. Take a couple of lock nuts and thread them on.You want to make sure you're installing the lock nuts on the inside of the frame of the trailer, and now we'll just grab our wrench and socket and tighten down.Now, at the front end of the tongue of our trailer, we're going to feed our wiring that's going to go all the way through the tongue and towards the frame of the trailer. How we know that we have the front end is, one, there's a sticker right here. The warning sticker's going to go towards the front of the tongue.We also have that triangle set of holes right there. That also lets us know it's the front, so we're just going to let gravity do the work and just feed the wire all the way through.Now, we have it out the other end, we're just going to feed it through the connecting bracket right here. Just leave it right there. Now we're going to take the bolt included in our kit, this is going to be the longest bolt of your assembly, and we're just going to pull the frame, line it up inside that bracket, and because our trailer is upside down right now, we're going to pick it up and then feed it through the bottom.Just like that. Now, we'll get washer and a locknut, and all we're going to do is hand tighten it for now. Now we have the brackets slid in. We're just going to get the carriage bolts installed on the bracket. On the inside, go flat washer and the locknut.Just like the bracket bolt, we're just going to hand tighten for now, and then repeat this for the other side, and now we'll just apply a flat washer to our bolts and feed them through the two slots connecting the tongue of our trailer to the frame.Go flat washer on both sides again, and then hand tighten our locknuts. With our carriage bolts, we're now going to get the center beams installed on the frame, with the locknuts on the inside. Just hand tightened, and make sure you go around and get the other six hand tightened as well.Now we're going to go around and get all of the bolts tightened down. We're going to start here at the back with the carriage bolts, on the center beams on our frame, and then make our way up towards the tongue of the trailer.Now we can go ahead and assemble our spring and axle assembly. There's going to be a bolt right here, goes into the hole on our axle, and then we'll put the U-bolt plate on that knob. We'll bring our U-bolts up through the bottom and then put two locknuts on.Do our second U-bolt, and now we'll just tighten everything down. Now we'll repeat this process with the other side, making sure we set this spring in the exact same formation. Now we'll set out assembly in place making sure to get the flat part of the springs into the C-brackets, and then the eyeholes of our springs into the U-brackets.Now we'll feed the bolts through the eyes of our springs. Get the locknut on, hand tighten on both sides. Now we're ready to get our wheels installed while the frame is still upside down. We're going to take our hub cap first and slide it through the back of the wheel, like so.That'll catch on the sides. We'll put it on the axle of our trailer, and now we can get our lug nuts hand tightened. Now, in a star pattern, we'll go around and tighten down all of our lug nuts.Then repeat this process with the other side. Now we're going to get the lights and brackets assembled. The brackets right here are going to go on the side of our trailer then you see the big hole right there is where our light is going to go.So, just put it on the side. Stick a couple bolts in there, and also put some locknuts on and tighten it down.On the driver's side of your trailer, don't forget, once you get the bolts through the slots, to put your license plate holder on there as well. And now we'll plug in the wiring from the tongue of our trailer to the wiring that's going to go back to our lights.From there, just make sure you run the appropriate wires to the appropriate lights.And then don't forget to clip your wiring to the sides to make sure it stays out of the way. Now, you will have a little bit left over right by the bracket which is connecting both of the sides. However, make sure you don't get the two heads right here inside the tongue of the trailer.That bolt right there is to prevent them from being pulled by the other side and disconnecting your wires. But if you want, you could just grab a zip tie, put it right there, and then zip tie it up to clean it up a little bit.When installing the brackets on your fenders, we're just going to set it from the bottom. Apply our bolts through the top. Hold them there, and then apply our locknuts. And then repeat this for the other side.Now, with a flathead screwdriver, we're going to hold the other side of the bolt in place, and then tighten down all four bolts. Now, with a flat washer and a bolt, we're just going to feed it through that center hole right there, and then apply another flat washer and a locknut., and do that for both sides.Now we'll just tighten up all of the bolts.Now onto our coupler and safety chains. We'll get the safety chains installed first. We have a flat washer and the ends of our two chains on there. We'll push it up through that bracket and hold it there, then we'll just apply a flat washer and a locknut.Just get that threaded on there and tightened down, and now we'll tighten it down all the way. Now, with our coupler, we'll just set that down and line it up with the holes. Before we install the bolts, you want to pick which side the handle goes on. Doesn't necessarily matter too much, just whatever you feel more comfortable with.We'll apply the bolt through the handle, and then through the coupler. Get it all the way through, and then the other bolt. We're going to apply locknuts to the other side.Now we'll tighten everything down. Now we're going to start assembling our upper deck with the crossbars. The support bar is going to go, one, on the back end of the trailer. The other one's going to go about 48 inches up towards the front, and we'll just drop our U-bolt on top, bring the plate, and then we'll put two locknuts on.Once you have it set where you want it, we'll tighten everything down. Now we have one of our crossbars just sitting on top of the support bar right here. We've got to take these brackets. It's going to go over top, like so. Make sure you line up the bottom holes with the bolt all the way through.Then we'll put a locknut on there, and now with the crossbar what we're going to do is that's going to come straight up, and the second bolt's going to sit right under it, and do this for both sides. Then we'll go around and tighten all four bolts.Now, on both your crossbars, be sure that the one hole on the outside of each side of the bar is facing towards the inside of the trailer. Now, the final step is going to be to get our D-rings installed in those holes.I'm just going to apply a flat washer and then put the bolt through there. Now, I'm going to slide my finger in and line it up with that hole, and then start to thread it on there. Once you've gone as far as you can with your hands, what I'm going to do is a nice little trick.Take a pair of needle node pliers. We're going to feed the pliers in, and clamp down on that locknut. Get a good grip. Now we'll tighten it down.It doesn't have to be super tight, but you can see it's pretty snug. Now just repeat this step for all the other sides, and then put your end caps on. When getting your J-style carrier in place, you're going to have two bolts that look like this.You're also going to have a nice, rubber coated plate right here which is going to help protect your crossbars from any type of damage. We'll just set it in place. It's nice. It'll fit the crossbars very well, thanks to the indent right there, so it'll set right on top, and then it honestly just balances itself, just like that.We'll bring this under it. Now, it's going to go under the flap right here, so because we can't really get it out unless you have fingernails, I'm going to push the bolt through from the bottom to push that cap up like so.I'm going to hold it open, and then drop the bolt through. From there, just close that flap, and then we'll bring the bracket up and on there. We already have one of the wingnuts on, and then we'll just take the included washer, put it on the bolt, and then our wingnut. Then we'll just tighten up both sides.Well, thank you all for watching. That's going to do it for our look at the Malone MicroSport trailer.


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Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Colin H
Installed by:
Colin H

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