Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Review

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Review of the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit


Speaker 1: Today, you're gonna be taking a look at the Kodiak disk brake kit with 13 inch hub and rotors with eight on six and a half inch bolt patterns. That's gonna be for 7,000 pound axles. Part number K2HR712D.A lot of people are upgrading their drum brakes to disk brakes on their trailer for good reason. They're gonna ride better, they're gonna give us more breaking power, including on the highway where most drum brakes tend to fade and have less power and there's less moving parts, which means there's gonna be less to maintain, less to replace, which that means the maintenance cost is gonna go down. And overall, a disk brake is gonna give you a lot better braking performance over any kind of drum brake.Here's what our Kodiak disk brake looks like once it's installed. Now, since it is a kit, it's gonna be a lot easier to upgrade from drum brakes to disk brakes, giving us a lot better braking power and a lot more even braking even when we're on the highway.

The fact that it's a disk brake kit makes changing the pads out that much easier. Instead of having to remove a drum and replace all the springs and hardware inside, we can simply remove two bolts on the back of the caliper, swing it out of the way and replace the two pads on the inside. The maintenance cost are gonna be lower than drum brakes because there's gonna be less moving parts to maintain, repair, or replace.Our assembly is gonna have a detriment coding on there, which it's gonna provide superior rust and corrosion protection. Now, while the brake pads are probably gonna wear it off of the breaking surface, every other component is gonna have that on the hub as well as the brackets and the caliper itself providing us a lot more protection against rust or corrosion, making it ideal for any saltwater or fresh water trailers.Along with the coding erosion, they're gonna be vented, helping dissipate some of that braking heat. And our rotors and hubs are gonna be a one piece assembly, giving us that smooth ride, balancing out the hub and rotor, minimizing the lateral run out to prevent any kind of warping.

Our caliper itself does have the coding on it protected and it is a cast iron construction and itself adjusting for smooth, equal braking. Now, the cast iron construction is gonna stay nice and rigid and not flex like aluminum. And the piston has a stainless steel construction and a two and a half inch diameter which is much larger than other brands on the market. The pads themselves are gonna be a high performance ceramic break pad giving us superior braking action.Included in our kit, we're gonna have enough to do one axle. We're gonna have the hub and rotor assembly as well as two caliper and all of the mounting hardware.

Now, keep in mind, in order for the breaks to work, you will need a hydraulic actuator and break lines which are sold separately. The bearings and seals are also sold separately, but the raises are pre installed.Since this is a 13 inch diameter rotor, it is gonna only fit wheels 16 inches or bigger. So now, that we've seen what our Kodiak disk brake kit looks like, and gone over some of the features, lets go ahead and put the last one on together.So we've already moved our wheel and tire and now we're gonna have to remove the dust cap on the end of our axle here. I'm gonna grab a pair of channel locks or whatever you have. You just want to be careful not to crush that cap, but you want to get a good grip on it and kind of work it back and forth a little bit until we can get it broke loose.

If you're having trouble you might want to grab a flat head screwdriver and very carefully, try to get behind the fland on the cap. Go ahead and get it started and work our way around. We're gonna remove that cap. On the inside it may look a little bit different. You may have a coder pin or something else, but we're gonna need to remove the retaining pin or nut at the end here. So we're gonna remove that and hold on to it because we will be using it later.And we should have a nut that we can back off and remove. There's gonna be a plate washer right behind that. If you're having a little bit of trouble grabbing it, what you can do is, you can just reach in, give the drum a good wiggle and it'll start pulling everything out for you. So you want to be careful because the bearing will come out too. And you pull out the drum just a bit and the bearing will fall right out. Once we have the outer bearing and everything else removed, you're gonna want to carefully remove the drum assembly and set it aside. And at this point, I always like to clean off the spindle and inspect everything for any kind of gauges, any heat marks, any kind of damage that may be on there. You just want to get a rag and wipe off any of the excess grease and check the entire area. Make sure it's in good condition. Our break assembly is gonna be held on by these five nuts so I'm gonna grab a nine sixteenth socket and pull 'em out.Once you have the nuts removed, you can pull the break assembly down, but in our case, they're electric brakes so we're gonna have to cut the cable so we can get it pulled away from the axle. Take a pair of side cutters. We're gonna cut the wire, and set this aside. At this point, we can grab our bracket that our caliper's gonna be mounted to. Now, since we're on the right side of the trailer, if we're looking at the axle, we want the mounting points to be at the nine o'clock position. So we can take our mounting bracket, line it up with the studs making sure that that's on the left hand side or towards the back of our trailer, then we can take the nuts that we removed and loosely reinstall. We're just gonna get them on there hand tight so the bracket won't fall down for right now. We can come back with that same nine sixteenth socket and snug up those nuts.Then we're gonna come back with a torque wrench and we're gonna torque our hardware down. Now, the instructions don't give you a torque specification. You're gonna wanna go off what the manufacturer recommends to torque the brake assembly too.Now, we're gonna grab our rotor and we're gonna put it face down. Now, on the back here our race is already pre installed. We went ahead and picked up the corresponding bearings for it and it's gonna fit right there in the back, but before we put 'em in, we're gonna need to pack the bearings with grease. Now, a lot of people don't have a bearing packer at home and I'll show you an easy way to do it by hand. It does take a little bit longer and it's a little messy, but it's not that bad. So we're just gonna take a good amount of grease in our hand. And you don't want to just wipe the bearing with grease. You want to get it into the rollers there so you're gonna take the grease and you're gonna push it as best you can inside that cavity. Kind of wiping it while you're pushing it in there and you can grab the excess grease and kind of keep working it around getting as much grease in the bearing as you can. It's not gonna hurt if you get it on the outside, but the main thing you're really wanting to do is get it on the inside of that channel where the rollers themselves are. And we'll flip it over, grab some more grease and work it into the other side.Once you've got it pretty good, go ahead and go around the outside, put some grease around the bearing, make sure you get as much in there as you can. And then with the tapered part, the thinner part pointing down, we can drop our bearing into the back of the rotor. Make sure it's seated all the way in there and then we can get ready to put the seal in place.So we can take our new seal, we're gonna loosely line it up, make sure it's nice and even. If you have a seal driver this size, I would suggest using that to get it in place, if not, your best bet is to grab a block of wood, put it directly over the seal and then take a hammer and drive it into place. Now, I'm gonna periodically check and see that it's going in even or where I need to adjust.Now that the seal is driven in, we can put our rotor in place. I'm gonna lift it up over the spindle, make sure it seats all the way towards the back. Now, our outer bearing is gonna need to be packed as well. So we want to repeat that same process as we did for the inner bearing. Once we have our bearing packed, gonna go ahead and lift it up over the end of the axle there and we're gonna push it into position. We're gonna make sure it goes all the way back and that it seats in there fully. So with our bearing in place, we can put that washer that came out behind it back in. And then we're gonna place that nut. We're just gonna snug that nut up a little bit. And then after I have it snug, gonna give the rotor a few turns, back it off just a bit. Once that's nice and snug and we have everything back in place, we're gonna pace that retaining nut or coder pin, whatever you're trailer has.And since we've packed it by hand, we want to make sure that our bearing have the full amount of grease in them, so I'm gonna take a grease gun and I'm gonna fill it up until we just get a little bit of grease coming our around the edges of our bearing to make sure that it's full of grease and everything is lubricated properly. The bearing is full of grease, we're gonna put our grease cap back in place. Just want to be careful when you're putting this back on, they can be a bit of a headache. Just want to go around in a circle gently tapping it so it will go in evenly til it's fully seated.So we grab our caliper. Now the two bleeder screws as well as the brake line inlet needs to go towards the inside of the trailer. We're gonna have two mounting bolts. I'm gonna go ahead and loosely put them in there right now. So you want to make sure you have your bolts at least somewhat in the caliper itself when you slide it into position. And it will take a little bit of wiggling to get it into position. And once we have it lined up, we can get the bolts started by hand. And then we can come back with a half inch wrench and tighten them up. And then we come back with a half inch socket and a torque wrench, and we're gonna torque our bolts to the specified amount in the instructions. We're gonna repeat that for the other bolt as well.Since we converted our electric brakes to disk hydraulic brakes, we're gonna have to hook up an actuator and all the brake lines in order for them to work. We went ahead and mounted our actuator, put our brake lines in place, so now we're gonna need to bleed our brakes. You're gonna want to start with the farthest caliper from the actuator itself. And the easiest way to do this is if you have a brake away switch, you can have extra set of hands pull the brake away switch which will apply the maximum force to your brakes and then we can open up the bleeder.I'm gonna take a hose here, put it right on the end of the bleeder so I can watch the fluid or air coming out and then I have a little bit of fluid in the bottom of the bottle so air doesn't get sucked back in. So I'm gonna have my extra set of hands pull the brake away switch and the actuator will kick in. So I'm gonna take a five sixteenths wrench open up my bleeder. And you see some fluid start to come out. So we'll go ahead and close it. Put the break away switch back in. And we'll continue to do that until we get a solid stream of brake fluid 'cause we're gonna keep in mind you always want to double check the reservoir to make sure it's staying full 'cause you don't want to run your actuator dry 'cause then you're just gonna put more air into the system.Then we'll keep doing that with each one of our calipers moving closer to the actuator until we have all of them bled. With all the brakes bled, we're ready to put the wheels and tires back on and hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Kodiak disk brake kit part number K2HR712D.


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