Fastway e2 Weight Distribution System Review

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Review of the Fastway e2 Weight Distribution System


Randy: Hey, guys, Randy here at etrailer.com. Now, we get questions all the time from our customers. They're trying to figure out which is going to be the best weight distribution system for themNow, there are a few different types of weight distribution out there. The more basic set is something similar to like a CURT MV Set up. Just going to be your Trunnion bars that come back, no friction sway control whatsoever, you actually have to add that on secondary, and with that system you can't back up, so it's kind of an older more antiquated system.A lot of the systems, this one is the one we're looking at today. This is from Fastway.

This is the e2 set up. This gives us all of the weight distribution properties through a Trunnion bar. I like Trunnion bars a lot more than I do round bars because those tend to hang down kind of a lot lower in reduced ground clearance, but it also has built-in friction sway control right here on each side.We've got friction material built on right to the bottom of the bar and on top of the bracket, and as those move against each other in a sway event, it really helps to hold everything back in place. Now, that system, the e2 system is going to work out for the majority of trailers out there. It has a lot of different weight ratings to pick from.If we we're to go a step beyond this, let's say you have really large bumper pulled style campers, or any camper that doesn't have a lot of pin weight, that's where sway comes from, that tongue weight going down.

It kind of keeps everything in line. So, if you're trailer is prone to that, something like the EQUAL-I-ZER is probably going to be a better choice. That offers four points of sway control. It's almost identical to the e2 here, having the bars that slide back here to give you that straight force, but it also has two more points built into the head.So, you've got a good, a better, and a best option there. I really don't like the good option.

I don't think that that weight distribution system is good for most applications, save maybe utility trailers and things like that. If you're looking for just a bare bone system for weight distribution, that might be the one to pick.My favorite one happens to be this one. I like the simplicity of the system. I like that we don't have a ton of moving parts, it's very quiet and you'll see in the customer reviews, this e2 system is very popular. I think the ease of set up is really nice.

A lot of customers wish they would have got it sooner, so they didn't have to deal with the chains and the pipes and counting links and those kind of things.Now, another common question that we get other than which system is going to be the right one for me is, what does it actually do Basically, when we hook up a camper, which you'll see when we do our measurements, the back end of our truck goes down. The front end of our camper goes down. That's less than ideal. We're putting excess strain on that rear suspension components. Generally, the front end of the truck rises a little bit. That gives us a lot of negative handling and braking effects. Changes our suspension geometry so we get weird tire wear, and we're also going to have our headlights tilted up slightly.On the trailer side, is that front end comes down and the tandem set up, you're putting more weight on the front axle. It's going to wear out more quickly in the tire and in the suspension area than what the rear axle will. So, when we set up a weight distribution system like this, we're basically creating at a connection point from our trailer up to our hitch.If you think about it like a wheelbarrow, it's essentially how it's going to work out. We lift our truck and trailer up so we can get our bar set, and then when we lower it back down, instead of it letting the back of the truck tilt down, it holds it up. It's going to hold it to where it's right back to that factory height. By doing that, it pushes those front wheels back down, so we return all those handling and safety characteristics that we need.By combining that with sway control, it keeps everything tracking down the road smoothly so if we have a cross wind, we don't have to worry about our trailer getting out of control and winding up in the median rolled over. The tractor trailer passes us or if we pass a tractor trailer, that sudden gust isn't going to cause us any issues.A lot of times in an improperly loaded trailer, even taking your foot off the gas as you crest a hill can cause sway to start. So it's an excellent idea not only to load your trailer properly to have proper tongue weight on it, but to incorporate sway control so you don't have any of those issues.Now, this sway control system in my mind is one of the better ones out there. I like the way the Trunnion bar slides on the bracket. It eliminates a lot of set up hassle, like trying to get cam levers on, you almost need two hands and you're with the train, that's with like the CURT TruTrack system. I like the way this one works a lot, especially when we compare this to a standard friction bar set up.A friction bar, you have to put it on each time you want to leave after you have everything hooked up, and then anytime you want to back up, you have to take it back off. That friction bar gives you about 40 pounds worth of sway control effort, whereas with this e2 system we're looking at closer to 400 pounds. So, we're getting almost 10 times the effect out of this system than what we would out of a sway control friction bar.Now I really like the overall construction of this system, too. I think it's going to be something that lasts for a good long time. All the powder coat on it looks really nice. All of our hardware is going to be nickel coated. Our spacers and that, once we have everything set, it's pretty straightforward. There's not a lot of adjustments to make. You might have to change slightly the amount of washers if you switch from trailer to trailer, but overall it's going to work out really well. You can see our Trunnion ends here, the Trunnion bars are really nice. Overall, I think this is going to stay looking good for a very long time.As far as service and maintenance goes, there's really not a whole lot to it. The biggest part is going to be right here at our Trunnions where they go into the head. By putting a little bit of grease in here and also in the top, you're just really going to help reduce any noise that you might have while the system's in operation, and we also have our keepers here. It's a good idea to keep those lubricated so they move freely for you.Now, before we go through the process of getting our measurements and doing all the installation and everything, it's important for you to pick the right weight setting for your application. Basically, the way we're going to get the tongue weight is going to be the weight of anything we have behind our rear axle and the tongue weight of our trailer. We want to combine those and that should be the TW rating.The GTW rating is going to be our Gross Trailer Weight rating. That's going to be the total weight of anything behind that rear axle, anything in the camper, and the weight of the camper and it should be loaded how you intend to haul it. You don't want to have an empty trailer with no water in the tank, and set it up that way because you're not going to have the effect once it does get loaded.So, get those measurements, or get those weights and pick a system that matches that. You'll know like with the 1,200 pound system here, our camper's only about 8,000, but this system works between eight and 1,200, so, when this gets water in the tank, it'll be up to that 84. It's going to be within that range. These go all the way down to like 450 pounds in tongue weight and 4,500 pounds in Gross Trailer Weight through those smaller applications, so, they really cover a wide range, and give you just about the perfect weight rating you're going to need for just about any situation.Now, while everything does look pretty normal here with the truck, these Ram 2500s really have a pretty good pitch-up to the back of them when they're unloaded, and right now we're running pretty level. So, what we're going to do is measure off the rear wheel here, just to see what kind of difference that we have before and after that pin weight goes on, and we can go from there.See, currently we're at about 41" here in the back. We're going to go up in the front, we'll measure the same thing there. Here we're at about 40-3/4". Here with our trailer unhooked or disconnected, look how much higher the back of that truck is sitting. That's where we want to get it back to. That's where it wants to be from the factory, so, using that weight distribution set up, we should be able to return this right back to where it started.Just to give us an idea, we we're at 41", we're now at 43-1/4". So, 2-1/4" higher here in the back. Our front was at 40-3/4", and see now it's back closer right down to 40, so half inch doesn't seem like a whole lot, but there's a lot of weight being put back down on that front end and that half inch.We've got everything kind of set up. We've got our camper nice and level. That's important, then we measure our coupler height. Basically that's going to be right to the top of the coupler here. We're going to use our shank. Now, this isn't a shank that's going to come with the kit since this truck is quite a bit higher than most common vehicles. We've had to use a drop shank.So, we've got the head installed here and you can see we have added our 2-5/16" ball. You'll need to pick up a ball with an 1-1/4" shank and we want this to be appropriate for your trailer. So, if you're going to be using a 2" coupler on your trailer, this should be 2", 2-5/16" you'll want 2-5/16" and we've got plenty of these available on our website. This one happens to be the EQUAL-I-ZER brand. I like this one over the other brands when using this style of set up because the shank is the appropriate length. You can see that we can get our large nut put on there and we can crush our washer so we don't have a lot of overhang down through there. So that's something I like there.Now, when setting the height of our ball we need that to match our coupler as closely as possible so these holes are an 1-1/4" of adjustable so we'll want to get it as close as we can to that, and you'll line up the holes in the shank. Once we have it where we want it, you're going to put one of the conical tooth washers on our bolt, and we're just going to loosely slide this in for now, and we also need to insert our rivet here with our washers on.Now, depending on your application, for longer wheel based trucks you're going to use six probably. You might add one more in there if need be. On shorter wheel based vehicles you're going to use five to start. You might need to add one in. You can see right down here on the back side there's an open hole so we'll take that. You're going to get that slid down in there, then we'll capture it so it won't come out, slide our bolt through, take my bottom bolt which I had in out for the washer on that, slide it through, place our washers on the other side, we'll just get our nut started.All right, with that in position and our bolts loosely secure for now, we've got our bolt right here. Now this is going to cause our head to come up and it's going to pinch that washer and rivet set up against the shank. So, we want to tighten it until it makes contact. All right, that's made contact so now what we need to do is go one half turn from there. So we'll go a quarter, and another quarter. So, we've got that set into place now, we've got our angle set on our ball. You can see there's a slight downward tilt to that, which is what we're looking for. Now let's turn to the tongue of the trailer and get our work done there.Now on the trailer side, you can see we've placed a mark right in the center of our coupler. Now, I need to mark from there back 30". That's going to be the center for our side bracket. We'll do that on both sides of our trailer. We're just going to create a square line there. Now, if 30" won't work, 30" is recommended. That's going to be the center of our bracket, so we'll have a little overhang this side, we'll have a little overhang this side. You can bring this in as much to 27 on center. You don't want to go any shorter than that, though, so definitely keep that in mind. This should be where it's going to work the best, somewhere between 30" on center which is ideal, as little as 27" on center, but the closer to 30 we get, the better.Now, for our clamps you can see we've taken one of our longer bolts there. You've got a lock washer and a nut on it. We're going to place that down over and we want our bolt to be dead center on our mark there, and then if we look we should be able to see our line coming right through the center of each of our holes there, place our other bolt in here on the bottom, and of course you're going to want to use the hole that most closely matches your frame, so if your frame is a little bit narrower this way than what ours is, you'll use one of the holes above it.Now just snug those down by hand ensuring that our line is going right through the middle of our holes there, then we do the same thing on the other side. Now as we keep our brackets in place we don't want these to move around at all. We need to tighten down our bolts here. These use a 19 millimeter or a 3/4". We want to tighten them down evenly from the top to the bottom. It's best to use a wrench on the back side because if you start turning this bolt, it wants to move our bracket a little bit so we'll use our wrench to tighten the nut first, and then once we have them down there pretty snug we can use our torque wrench to get that final torque measurement that'll be found in your instructions.Now we'll get our L-brackets put in place. They're going to slide right on the two welded on bolts there. For our initial set up we're going to use the middle two holes. We'll leave these two open and these two open. We may need to adjust it slightly later, just going to take our nylon lock nuts, going to thread those on and snug them down. Those will also use a 19. All right, we'll do that on both sides.Now, that's our side bracket set up. That's what we need to do on our trailer. Of course, we'll need to torque everything down once we have all of our set up done. But the only kind of real difference to that is going to be in a coupler style. This is a top mount coupler, you can see it's mounted to the top of the frame. If you have one of the trailers that has a bottom mount coupler, instead of us mounting these frame brackets so that these bolts we're closer to the top, those frame brackets would be flipped over.By flipping those over, we'll have that single hole at the bottom. We'll have our multiple holes up here at the top, and that's going to position these down lower so when we install our L-bracket, we'd install it the same way using those center holes, it would just be lower to accommodate for that coupler.Okay, now as we move onto this step in our set up, it's going to be getting everything kind of fine tuned. We'll want to use the table that we have here in the instructions, so the tow vehicle loaded for a trip but still uncoupled from trailer, the distance from the ground and the inside of that fender well which we saw earlier was 40". Once we coupled the trailer without weight distribution it came up to 40-3/4". What we're looking to get back to is the halfway point between those two. So that's going to be 40-3/8". So, that 40-3/8" is our target. That's the intended point we want to get back to, so we'll set it up and see how that goes.All right, now to get our Trunnion bars in place, you can see the little keeper tab right here. We're going to slide that up, place the bottom in, rotate the top in and then let that come back in behind it, and at that point we're going to bring our trailer, get it coupled to the truck here and we'll start making any adjustments we might need.All right, now we'll extend the jack. This is going to lift both the trailer and the truck up slightly. You can see as we do that, see how our Trunnion bars are getting closer to our brackets there This makes it a lot easier to get these things connected. Now we'll use our tool there, just going to get our Trunnion bars up into place, take our keys, we'll slide those down in and then use our provided clips to keep them in place. We'll do that on the other side as well.All right, now we've relaxed everything we've allowed with our weight distribution bars locked in place. We've taken all the weight you can see off of that trailer jack. Now we need to go check our measurements again. Front wheel first, we're looking to be at most 40-3/8". If we're not there, we need to add more washers in. If we're anywhere below 40, which is exactly where we started and that would be ideal, well then we need to take some washers out, but as long as we're between 40 and 40-3/8", it's going to be exactly what we want.Now, once we've confirmed we've got everything where we want it, we want to come back and torque down our L-brackets here that would be listed in your instruction, the torque you want to hit, and also get the main 3/4" bolts in our head torqued.All right guys, now back up here at the front, you can see we are right at 40". That's absolutely perfect. Anytime you're able to use a system and get right back to that measurement, that's ideal. But like we said, we had 3/8" there to play with, but I'm happy it's right where it's at. Now, in this particular set up with a Ram 2500, I think this is a 2018 model, we used the 1,200 pound kit, 1,200 pound arms and we used seven washers in there, so if you are going to be doing it on a 3/4" tongue, if it's pretty close to that, it's going to give you a good starting point.Here at the back, we're looking at about 42-3/4", so we're within about 3/4 of an inch of where we wanted that to be. We're putting less pressure on this rear end, it's going to save a lot of life in these rear suspension components. With that being said, I know it's a lot of information, but in my opinion and a lot of our customers opinions, this is an excellent way to go. Get the weight limit or the weight setting that's appropriate for your application. I think you'll be very happy with it.


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Cole B
Installed by:
Randy B
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Chris R
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Shane H
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