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etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Review and Installation

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Review and How to Install the etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly

Randy: Hey, guys, it's Randy here at Today, we're going to be taking a look at a hub and drum assembly from etrailer. This one's going to offer the six on 5.5" bolt pattern, and it's going to include everything we need to replace from our brake assembly and spindle out. This is going to come pre-greased as well. This is one of my favorite things about this hub and drum. All hub and drums really are about identical to the other one.

The thing I like about a pre-greased hub, it saves you a lot of time and it saves you a lot of mess. Typically, packing bearings is something that not a lot of people like to do. I've never met anybody that enjoyed packing bearings.With this assembly, once you've got your old stuff off and you've got your spindle cleaned up, it's going to slide right on. Seals already in the back, Your inner bearings already in, outer bearings already in, completely packed through with marine grade grease, so it's even slightly better at resisting corrosion and water than what a standard grease is. Then it's going to come with a new dust cap, whether you go with the standard or the E-Z Lube type, like what we have here.

It's just really simplifies this whole process and it makes it a lot cleaner process. We get a new hub, new drum of course, new cap, new bearings, new seals, new lug nuts and wheel studs. These are going to be 1/2" wheel studs.Now there are others out there available. We have some available from Dexter as well. Now those and these, they're going to be almost identical.

They're available just like this with an E-Z Lube type cap on it, with a standard type cap on it. It's up to you. The thing I like about these is that pre-greased aspect. Those don't come pre-greased. They also tend to run a little bit higher cost-wise than what these do.

So, if I had to pick between one or the other, I'd definitely go with these. I like saving money and time.Now to begin your installation process, of course you'll need to get that old hub off, and that's just going to be the reverse of what we're going to do here. When we put everything on, you'll see exactly how it comes off, but you need to inspect your spindle here. We want to check this for any kind of damage. There's three key areas really. Right here is going to be where our outer bearing rides. Right here is going to be where our inner bearing rides. We want to make sure that's nice and smooth so there's no way grease can sneak out. And something else I like to do, I like to check my brakes. I like to check my pads to make sure they're not crumbling and cracking. I like to make sure there's plenty of thickness there. Like to check all the hardware and look for any signs of damage there because this is going to be your best opportunity to change these if you need to.We'll put a part number on the screen there for you for a left and right, 3,500 pound, 10" brake assembly. So if you need to change them, now is the time. I like the idea you're putting a brand new hub on, putting a brand new drum on. I like the idea of new brakes. You know you're going to maximize the potential. Especially if you had a seal failure with your old hub, if this has any kind of grease on it at all, they're just not going to work properly. So now's a great time to do it. It's going to prevent you from having to pull it back off later and go through the replacement process then. So just keep that in mind.But outside of that, once we've inspected everything, we know we're good to go on with our new hub, we'll want to open up our box. Inside you can see we're going to have all of our new components there. Also going to come in a bag. The seals, the hub area is capped off, but I also like that the bag's there. That's going to prevent us from getting any dirt, debris that gets in there on our hub. On the back side, we've got our plug here. So we'll pull that out, and we'll tilt it away from us. We want to pull this cap off as well. Now, when you pull this cap off, have it tilted away because there's that bearing in there and it's sitting loose. So, if you've got it tilted forward, it could fall out and then you're going to get dirt and debris anyway on your new grease, and that's not what you want.So grab it. I like to put a thumb over that bearing and then just look through the middle there and get it guided in. Just slowly kind of wiggle it, let everything get seated properly. And once we've got that in around that, where that bearing seat is where we took a look at, we want to grab our, basically three components you're going to keep off your old axle. One's going to be the washer or the thrust bearing, they sometimes call it. One's going to be your axle nut or spindle nut. Now, this is just a standard spindle nut here. You're generally going to see this on an E-Z Lube axle. On a standard axle without the E-Z Lube, a lot of times this is going to be a castle nut. Then there'll be a hole to slide a Cotter pin through. So just depending on which one you have, that might change a little bit.Once we've got that started, I'm going to use my channel locks here. I'm going to run this all the way down till it stops. Right there it stopped, and now I'm going to torque it. That's just putting a little bit of pressure on everything, getting it all seated properly. You know this is pretty tough to turn this now. We're going to take this and back it off just a little bit. At that point, ready for my spring keeper here to go on, or in your case you might be threading in your Cotter pin. You just want to get that snapped on around there. That should go down to where it sits flush right up against the face of that nut, and since that nut's loose, that just keeps it from backing off.At that point, if you got the E-Z Lube type, like what we've got here, we'll put on our E-Z Lube cap. If you've got the standard type, you're going to put on your standard cap. You just need to get it started all the way around right there. Once it's started, we're just going to drive this flange in until it's flush up against the face of the hub there. At that point, pull off our lug nuts. We're going to put our tire back on, and this is going to be ready for service.So as you can see, really quick, really easy way to get all new components on there so you've got absolutely nothing to worry about being. You can rest assured it's going to last for years and years for you. That's why this is one of my favorite assemblies. Everything's pre-greased, very minimal grease that we're going to have to deal with. You're not going to have the big mess of packing the bearings. So this is definitely something I would get if I needed a new hub assembly on my trailer.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D

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